JB-ed

The Dec/Jan issue of the club magazine will have an article on how to re-key your switch to fit any Clum key you find. Issue will be mailed first few days of December 2004.

If you cant find battery cables heavy enough (1 gauge at least) get some 0 or 00 welding cable and solder up your own end terminals. Make sure your starter is well grounded. Too often there is paint upon paint between all the connections between the battery ground terminal and the point where the starter bolts to the engine. I hide a direct ground cable from the battery to one of the starter mounting bolts to ensure an absoutely certain ground to the starter. Your car was engineered pretty well when it was new so there is no real need to change that now so long as everything is working as it is supposed to.

To save a few bucks get an SUV cover from K-Mart or Wal-Mart. Casually measure up a SUV in some parking lot to see how large a cover to get. A (on sale $29.95) cover for the huge Toyota SUV fits my 1918 touring just fine.

If your system is positive ground, then the positive coil terminal goes to the distributor.

Perhaps a better wording of the initial question is, "Is there a bulletin or booklet describing the HPOF class--it's qualifications and how judged?" I have a 1928 coupe, 32,000 miles, last driven in 1952 making every repair in its history older than 25 years. Is this car 100% HPOF? As is necessary on this model of car, 100% of pot metal parts have deteriorated beyond point of use. It's necessary to replace them with modern reproductions. These include starter and generator end plates, distributor housing, and all interior handles and window cranks. What will this do to my HPOF? How about rebuilding the carburetor, starter, and generator?

You also could have dirt in the carb. Either the metering pin can be partially blocked or some gunk is keeping that plunger from lifting at low rpms. That carb counts on manifold vacuum for its operation. A timing problem could effect vacuum too, so the previous suggestions could also be correct. If dirt is the problem, it could be coming from the gas tank or vacuum tank, so clean them all out and consider the slight alteration of adding an in-line filter somewhere along the fuel line tucked out of sight under the frame (and dont forget to change it now and then.)

The intrigue and quest for the history are major parts of the fun of this hobby. You may be already hooked and don't know it. I agree that $2500 for a decent straight eight is a great price for a very desireable car. My opinion is the 75% of the work is research and planning, including seeking out sources for parts and work you are unable to perform yourself. Keep in mind this will be a hobby, a family enjoyment, a long-term wholesome interesting activity that will put you in contact with new friends world wide. The important thing to remember is that the "bottom line" is not the ultimate motivation. As a hobby, you may end up spending more money than you could recover in selling the car--at least over the near term. The more work you do yourself, the less you will spend, of course. Use all resources available to you--this website, the club magazine, the club advisors, local car clubs, and you will make this happen with great pride and enjoyment. If you make it your objective to do the car reasonablly historically correct, you will have created a family heirloom as well as great memories to become part of your family's tradition.

Please post serial numbers and engine numbers. "Year" is often confused and inexact in the DB world.

A husband/wife team drove a 1915 touring from California to arrive at the club's annual meet in New Bedford Mass last week and said they averaged 45 mph on the open road, hitting 50+ between towns. They did avoid interstates when possible. But as RDH said, your top speed is your decision based on the quality of restoration and your own confidence. It's a different world driving a veteran car, which is the fun of it for most of us. As we speak the 1915 and passengers are returning to Calif driving all the way back, stopping for a few HCCA tours along the way.

There are no specific factory records, but a total of 87,000 (round numbers) of all body styles were produced with sedans being most. Based on charts for colors produced, it's possible to roughly estimate about 15-18,000 of the combined brougham/4-P coupes were built, about the same number as 2-passenger (5 window) coupes. Fewer roadsters and touring cars. During the early summer of 1928 the broughams/4-P coupes were produces in spectacular "designer" paint and upholstery colors in very European style.

It's only been 8 days since your first post for help and the time you got scared. Take it easy. It may take some months to gather up all your parts. I suggest joining the Graham Owners Club and then advertising for the parts you need in their newsletter. (Be careful because they accept street rods in that club). Also get their roster and start contacting every member with a car in the range of your's age. Contact one of the museums for a photocopy of your manual. What's left of Harrah's still offered this service some few years ago. Detroit Library, Crawford in Cleveland, and one in Philly may still do this too. Planning and preparation are 90% of a successful restoration, so sit back and relax and enjoy the process. You will have fun, you'll learn a lot, and you'll make some good friends.

I once found that the gas filler neck from a 1937 Buick Century is an exact match for a horn elbow for a Starr external horn, wind-up talking machine, even to the little rolled lip on the top end. Just unsolder the bayonet on the end. So I suppose someone could go the other way and it would qualify for this thread.

A wonderful thread. Until recently the Crawford was my most favorite. Now possibly Ford-Dearborn because of the large number of very early-very original cars. Unfortunately the guy who nearly brought VMCCA to its knees about five years ago is now managing Crawford. He seems to see no future in the very early cars and has talked the museum's directors into going modern. Let's hope he departs as quickly as his predecessors. While diaroma in museums can be regarded as "dumbing down," they also can be used as an excellent means of placing the vehicles in context. For years and years, long before the diarama craze, the Crawford had an as-is Thomas Flyer from one of the transcontinental tours sitting in a recreated garage of the era complete with tools and other, including straw on the floor. Since a child I have been fascinated by this scene. The Ford museum is starting to gather its collection of non-automotive items into diaromas with appropriate cars to present them in the context of their times. It's been said cars go to a museum to die, so perhaps the diaroma restores a bit of life to them. I don't necessarily see this as dumbing down, depending on how done. So far Ford is OK. I once proposed to the Crawford some context-based exhibits, such as displaying an array of engines in chronological order to show the general public how the technology evolved. many ideas like this can best utilize the various pieces and parts that accumulate in a museum. Now unfortunately, I see in Hemmings that the Crawford has hired one of the predators of our hobby to sell off their extensive collection of spare parts. When will it end?

On the vertical milled surface of the block, just ahead and/or above the manifold will be the engine number, die cut (stamped) in about 1/2 inch high letters and numbers. You need to clean off the crud of ages to see it, but it must be there. Use a wire brush and solvent if need be, because the numbers are stamped into the surface of the block and no doubt are filled with grease and dirt. All those numbers you have published are cast part numbers and mold numbers for the various components.

The Budd plate belongs under the front seat as you found it. I am a bit unclear as to the exact panel you describe but it sounds like it is in approximately the right place. It is probably spot welded not glued.

Aside from the enormous classics and perhaps top-prize show-winning production cars, there never has been an issue of "market" for any of these kinds of cars. Value has continued to move upward with inflation, but if you are thinking of holding off until there is some spectacular jump in prices, don't bother. If you have any interest in seeing your father's car preserved and not street rodded, however, I strongly suggest you advertise via the Dodge Bros Club magazine rather than in the local paper or (worst of all) on eBay. In fact, if there is an example of the worst possible market, eBay is it recently as cars of this vintage are almost being stolen by the buyers lately. Send ad to me, editor, with photo and description of condition and we will get you in the next available issue.

I'll chime in on this one too. Being an early Victory this will be a real piece of history and well worth your trouble. We can find your parts or help you restore the originals. See website www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com for reassurance that parts are available (though not always cheap).

There were two models based on this body shell. The coupe brougham (originally introduced as simply "brougham") had a full rear seat and the Four-passenger coupe had a shorter back seat with a package compartment behind the driver. This was a popular body style, great for families. It's also my most favorite. I have the 4-p coupe version. Sadly this is a popular body style to street rod and we are losing many of them. Your car may be rare some day so hold on to it. There were deluxe versions with cowl lamps and wire wheels and better upholstery. John, Victory Six Tech Advisor

Speaking of "deliberately destroying cars," does anyone else recall an article in "Special Interest Autos" some time ago--maybe 20 years ago or more-- about the guy in California who deliberately crushed his Packard collection? Apparently, as I recall, it was somehow related to some pee-ing contest between rival Packard Clubs. He instructed the scrap yard not to release or re-sell any of the cars, ordering that they were to be destroyed. I recall photos of the event in that article. This should never be forgotten/forgiven.

Thanks Jeanne. It does not amount to a lot of money, but it's the principle of the thing. At one time I reproduced an eBay ad for a horrible street rod that couldnt sell for giveaway price, and the postal people tried to call it an "ad," entailing an enormous confrontation, so perhaps I am a bit edgy. We have not settled into an uneasy truce, so I don't plan to pursue this over the summer. I am thinking of qualifying for the nonprofit periodical rate, which does, they tell me, allow the event ads to run at the editorial rates.

I'd love to know what you discussed by private e-mail. This actually is a topic that ought to go to the "tech" section. How DO you preserve and stabilize an all-original HPOF quality car? I have found little--actually nothing-- in the lit on the subject. I have a 28 Dodge Victory coupe, 32,000 miles, been parked since 1952. Upholstery great, but how do I clean ancient fabric & headliner without damage? Some say "steam clean" others say no no. How do I halt and stabilize a small rust line at bottom of rear deck panel? Or some surface rust on fenders? etc. etc. What about nickel plating polished in parts down to brass?The original question is a good one and not so easily dismissed. Is anyone aware of any writings on this subject?

Nice, Matt. A good offense is the best defense.

Where in Ohio? You can tie up with the Ohio/Pa region guys and we even could hold a work session at your place and get this thing running.

We mail 1200. Bulk (a.k.a. junk) is too slow and actually, Periodical is cheaper if you sort to ADCs and barcode. I'll try the phone # two posts up and thanks for that.

Thanks, 56, I have done that adjustment. It's explained in the Raybestos book. I was perfectly happy with that until I rode in a car adjusted with the gauge and felt the thrill of all four wheels locking and I WANT THAT too. It was the factory setting I have been not able to achieve with the "toe-heel" back and forth process you described. Just to clarify from a comment two items previous, I was not the one who advocated cutting holes in the original brake drums. I already have the swing arm mounted to a front hub and I can't imagine how this simple tool can fail. I mounted the actual drum to be used and move out the toes of the shoes to contact point and this becomes my reference diameter for the "tool." I ought to be stopping by the weekend.