JB-ed

Roy Brister is reproducing the entire early latch and parts. I also saw what I think may be the Eiseman key in Roy's latest catalog. Unfortunately he is in the final throes of moving his entire mountain of parts from Calif to Arkansas (10 semi-loads) and still does not have e-mail. You can call him on the latest phone number in his ad in the club magazine and leave a message. His wife recites the answer message. Give him a month or so to get back on his feet.

Last two comments are very interesting. First, it is my impression, and from observing the DB club's meets, that a nice turnover is occurring from the WW-2 aged members to the under-50 members. (Under 50 to 30s and maybe less) It is a bad rumor to say that younger people are not interested in these older cars. You may not see them at national meets or shows, but that's because they are young and have small kids, obligations, and work. Not the luxury of taking time off for car events--not even local "cruise-ins." Also, don't forget that there has been a flood of pre-war cars on the market over the last two or three years. Huge numbers of cars are coming up, many on eBay. Too many for the market to absorb at once. So don't necessarily attribute this as lack of interest of new buyers. It's more like a buyer's market right now and a terrible time to sell. Second point is the discussion of the lack of attention to the 30s cars in the Dodge Brothers Club. As the club's magazine editor I am always on the lookout for articles on vehicles of this era. Those of you who have submitted 30s manuscripts no doubt were surprised to see them in print in the next issue while those manuscripts for cars in the 20s wait up to two years to see daylight. Fact is, the 30s car guys don't write and I can't make up stories. Even if we start a 30s club, the same problem will exist. Your editor will have a heck of a time finding stuff to publish about the cars. Now, I am talking about helpful articles, not just pretty pictures of someone's car or reprints of sales brochures. Lots of club magazines publish "vanity" pix of people's cars or repro of literature just to fill pages, but in general they are worthless except only to guys with cars of that exact or near age, and even then only as an amusement. Nonetheless, I have on occassion resorted to vanity articles for the 30s cars just to ensure they are covered in the club magazine. I believe the problem is that there are fewer technical problems with these later cars. They are well documented by Chrysler, there are service manuals and parts books, and many parts are still readily available. There fore, unlike the earlier cars that pose all sorts of confusion, there are few topics that need to be addressed in a magazine to help people restore and maintain their 30s cars. (If I am wrong about this, then for petes sake start sending me articles and manuscripts.) The tech advisors have done their best to keep the magazine in articles (we did a nice series on color codes a bit ago)(one coming in April on dimensions of a top for convertible coupe, continued into June). But it's up to the members to send in the articles. Even photo articles showing the restoration from beginning to end would be appreciated, but I dont't get them either. I have been begging for an article on freewheeling (restoration, adjusting, bypassing) but nothing ever shows up. If the club extends to 42, I suppose I can take up a few issues introducing the new cars, but then the same problem returns. It's not entirely the year or model of car that was featured in a magazinie that ultimately determines that the magazine was a "good" read. I call it the "aha" factor, the number of times you say "aha" when reading an issue (indicating that you just learned something). That makes the magazine worth while. When you finish with the magazine and feel like you have just learned at least one thing, preferably several things, then the publisher, the club, and the editor achieved their just goal. Articles on wheel balancing, removing rusty bolts, how to weld sheet metal, serial numbers, rust preventive paints, and so forth are useful to all readers, no matter 1918 or 1938 cars. So I count those types of articles as satisfying you all, not just one era of car (or truck, by the way). Final thought--if I am wrong and you would be happy seeing lit reprints and photo galleries of 30s cars in the magazine, say so and you will get them. Simple as that. The club is here to make all happy. John--your servant and editor

remember you want 25 inch wheels, not 24 inch. It's best to research before you buy anything. I hgave a barn full of fitsalls that are of no use because I didn't research first. Get the parts book and an owners manual specifically for your 1917 (ebay) and research before you leap.

It's too often unspoken, but I strongly suggest before turning one nut that you take a few months, maybe this winter, to research the heck out of your vehicle. Try some of the big auto libraries like Harrah's in Reno, Detroit Library Auto History Collection, Chrysler Historical and museum, and maybe even your own nearest big-city library. Get your DB Club tech advisor to direct you to copies of parts books, service manuals (even if they are generic of the era) and write to lit vendors to buy anything you can find. Copy of owners manual. magazine ads. Put together a list of questions that arise from the research, also a list of parts you know for sure you need, a list of the wrong things about your truck that need replacement. Read some books on restoration. Finally...finally after all this, make a plan of restoration. Then find a wrench...... and the fun begins.

Perhaps a bit off subject, but as we are discussing problems or discrepancies in the certification of HPOF cars, would it not make sense to display the HPOFs in the same category as their restored versions? Then judges, who are looking for authenticity in the restored cars would be the best prepared to judge the authenticity of the HPOF ones? Otherwise how can one team of judges be experts on the whole gammut of cars displayed in HPOF? Or do I misunderstand this HPOF thing? It would be great for those of us researching a particular car to see them all together, judged, previously judged, and HPOF. Seems like it would also provide the most acurate judging of the HPOFs as well as the restored cars. Have a judging question about some engine-compartment detail of a restored car? Go look at the appropriate HPOF car for the answer.

McGrew said, "Those who really get into old cars do it for the memories and nostalgia of the times..." This today is a FALSE assumption that fuels many of the conflicts in the old-car hobby. Personally I live in an 180-year-old house with 150-80 year-old furniture, 100 year-old music boxes, talkling machines and records, and 80-90 year old cars, a 60 year old tractor, and I have no childhood memories of or nostalgia for any of these things because I am too young. I collect all this stuff because I love antiques. Mechanical antiques especially. It's certainly true that many who are now "old-timers" in the hobby got into this many years ago for nostalgia reasons, much as many baby boomers are here now with their 60s cars. However, what about the younger people with pre-war cars? Simple math says that TODAY the median age of collectors of pre-war cars would be unable to remember them from childhood and therefore must be collecting for another reason. We have to stop with this "nostalgia" stuff for pre-war cars or this certainly will discourage young participation in the pre-war hobby

There is a prevailing thought through this thread that collectors of pre-war vehicles represent a "dying breed." This is patently false, as seen by memberships and (to some extent) participation in many pre-war clubs and activities. In north east Ohio within a 30-mile radius of me I can site 18 families in the 30 to 50-year-old age bracket with brass era and 1920s vehicles. The problem with most clubs now is that the cars allowed are faster, the tours are faster, and the events are no fun for participants with early cars. So they stay home. In addition, younger people with early cars are not always seen at events because they have to attend to families and work. These early cars and members are interested in clubs, magazines, and assistance. Problem is, it all gets diluted when a club tries to cover 100 years of automobiles in one swoop. Years ago I wrote a detailed letter to an AACA president who now frequents this forum. This was shortly after the 25-year qualification came into being. I suggested that AACA divide into two groups, with two magazines, two judging systems, etc., etc. I have his response, basically a chastisement with a number of reasons why I was wrong about my predictions. His letter makes fun reading now, given the state we are now in. I have suggested that VMCCA consider restructuring itself into a national pre-war club and give the pre-war segment of AACA someplace useful to go. No response so far.

Not only a waste of money and time, but a waste of a once-good car because, unless this guy is 5'2" or less, he will have no headroom in a chopped Victory--or he'll sit on the floor and peer out the windows he just reduced to slits. Oh yeah, and if he pokes the engine back thru the firewall, which looks likely, he'll have no leg room either unless he drives from the back seat. The rumble of the roof he filled with sheet steel ought to add to his "enjoyment." The shortened frame (and wheelbase) changes a lot of geometry. I wonder what he knows about designing steering and front ends? This loser ought to be on eBay in a year or two.

As tech rep for Victory Six I have dealt with the following shop/person who seems to be quite dedicated and knowledgeable. He sent me photos of the Victory coupe he is restoring which were published in the magazine a while back. His e-mail is: btutor@midsouth.rr.com --Name is Brian Tutor. He is restoring the car for a father/son team in your area, Thomas I recall. You can ask Brian for their name and enquire of them as reference

Sorry I don't know how to isolate quotes but the guy who said this earlier: "nearly 100% of the guys there would never think of ripping of a restored stocker. This is some urban myth that rodders are destroying rare old cars or a TV show script with the goofballs of Monster Garage." ...is soooo wrong. I bet 90% of street rods come from nice solid cars. Check ebay descriptions, "Started with rust free California low mile car..." We have an example of a 1928 Dodge coupe that won First Senior at Hershey in the 1970s now a street rod. Last fall a coupe was advertised as being hacked from a 15,000-mile museum-fresh original. Look at who buys many of the older restorations and originals on ebay--street rodders. The "urban legend" is that rodders start with crusher bait. Why would they? The economics are the same for them as for restorers. Now to get back to letting street rods into a car show. Suppose you drive your all restored, authentic 28 Chevy to a car show. Next to you parks a rodded 28 Chevy. You spent 10s of thousands of dollars restoring your car to originality because you'd thought it was worth it. The rodder spent 10s of thousands cutting it up because he thought the original car was worthless. What exactly do the two of you have in common? As someone said above, the rodders have their own shows. What is their motivation for invading ours? Personally I will not bring any of my 1920s cars to an "antique car" show that allows street rods. I will however take them to cruise ins to show the general public that there is still plenty of activity among younger people with original pre-war cars. Everyone seems to forget that the pre-war and especially pre-1930 street rod craze will die with the baby boomers, so why prolong its misery?

I had better add my 2-cts worth of correction here for those reading this thread in need to technical accuracy. The 1929 Victory started at serial number M-51930, built on July 1, 1928. All previous cars, inlcuding yours at M-40270, are considered (as were sold as) 1928 models. Your car was built in early May, 1928.

I hope you are getting some replies to your query by now. If not, consider contacting directly some of the owners of DC-8s thru the roster and by all means plan to get to a national meet sometime soon to talk in person with some other owners of this or similar models/years. I am no expert on this model but have years of experience in scrounging help with my car projects. You have a fairly rare car so this may take some time. be patient.

At one of our meets, either Calgary or Kelowna, or maybe Bend--out west anyhow-- someone showed up with a mid 20s DB with motorcycle disc brakes fitted to the front wheels. Nothing was irreversibly altered, and it looked like a simple job. The car was on a trailer and never got off. But maybe someone else remembers that car and who owned it as a lead for you.

Romar reproduces the entire switch, see their catalog. This is a lot easier and will look better and work better than any mix-n-match alternative. Glenn Smith in Australia sells the housing only but you need an original for the guts.

Why are you doing this to an old truck anyway? Why not buy a 2005 with all the features you need and leave the American antiques alone? Have you seen the resale prices for these home-made cut up Dodges lately?

I am the "agent" and the next order will be May 1st. I have four of these on my own cars (Victory Six Dodges). Excellent. Glenn worked the repro castings so as to get maximum air flow and I swear to about 2-5 more horsepower, and well worth the money. He will rebuild yours for you if you send over the guts of yours. Also, you need to know the history behind the original carb you use for a core. Not all Stromberg U-2s or UX-2s are alike, and the one used for your car will have different jets than the one for my car, or Marmon, or any other users of this carb. You can't just pick one off the ground at a swap meet and hope it is set up for your engine. Glenn will help you in this as he has the data for all the applications of the U-2 or UX-2. He also sells an adjustable metering jet in case your core does not have one. I highly recommend this to adjust for modern gas octane and guality, compared with vintage conditions for which the carb was tuned. We place batch orders through the Dodge Bros club to cut down on shipping and duty costs. I take all your checks made out for the full price shown on the website and place one order, refinding overp[ayment after the exchange raltes and expenses are calculated. I think we have ads running in the Studebaker Club magazine (??) or used to (??) You dont have to be a Dodge Club member.

Both Romar and Brister sell these. See ads in magazine flea market section

...or consider stainless steel, sold at many home centers, sears hardware, and specialty suppliers to the hobby. Polished it's a bit brighter than nickel but I have touched the heads with varnish to give them a more yellow, nickel tint. The real solution is to take a pile of your originals or steel replacements to a plater, especially if they are odd-ball sizes.

Myers in Michigan or Brister in California would dissapoint me if they didn't have one of these. They advertise in the magazine. Or Call Jeryv Millemon in Nardin OK, in roster.

Romar Company (see club magazine or search web under Romar) sell them. The mechanics manual sold as reprint by many guys on internet shows how to replace using a simple home-made tool from the opening on the side, but I have never tried it.

Agree with choclate. Parts are available. About the only tough stuff will be cap and rotor but they are being reproduced and our vendors in club magazine have them. You do find them NOS cheaper at swaps once you know what you are looking for. These cars move down the road quite well and take a lot of abuse so you ought to be happy with it. If Buckley is still active he ought to make himself known to the Dodge Bros Club. Loads of business on the east coast probably awaits him.

see www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com

In the Flea Market section of the magazine about a year ago, maybe 18 months, a guy in the south advertised that he would make any size you want if you give him the thread or send hubcap or whatever. About $65. I got one for Victory and it's great.

I agree with above. This will be a huge, huge alteration if at all possible. You have hinges to relocate, door strikers and latches, plus you need to do something to close off the top of all the sheet metal you cut off. Fenders absolutely do not interchange at rear. You'll also have front seat back problems. And then you have to fit up some form of top. If you are good enough at sheet metal work to even consider this alteration, you probably could make up all the touring sheet metal from scratch, using wood framing instead of all steel. If you're not that good, why not contrive some form of an open "woodie" body and keep the sedan body in one piece?

See website www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com (I hope I spelled it right) for many repro handles and bright work in stainless steel (nop plating needed) and just about all you ever need for that car. The starter switch on the floor is a common part used thru the 40s on many cars and ought to turn up at swap meets. Mounted to the floorboard, it's just a cylindrival stalk with a cylindrical sleeve on top, you press with your foot. Contact me directly for more specifics, see inside page 2 of any club magazine.