gungeey

Feel free to add your own. If there's interest we can get into amplifier CD Changer and head unit placement

I hollowed out the original radio so there would be enough depth for the woofer., also cut back the defroster duct for clearance. Had to keep that B U I C K button set up 😆. So this system has front and rear channels as opposed to traditional L & R. Rear Speakers.. same as front.. these are vintage Polk dB series 5.25" Woofer and 1" silk and titanium tweeter with adjustable crossover network.

Starting a thread regarding the title: Aftermarket Stereo Install. This thread is for all who care to join in so others can have easy access to sound related info. From mild to wild, 1st Gen Rivieras have limitations on speaker placement. Myself, a stock looking interior is preferred. Stealth is the goal for me. Front speaker.. stock location

Nice! So where does the spare tire go? I will start a new thread for *Aftermarket Stereo Installs*. Why don't you repeat your last post there so others can research in the future. Steve

That's a nice set if the other one is in the same condition. Use liquid dish soap and a rubber hammer to gently mount them. I would wait til I have some chips on the doors then hide them with the door edge guards. A lot of people think there's a cleaner look without the door edge guards mounted. They blend better with lighter colors like yours.

Where's the amp located? Speaker location? Maybe we can start a Hi End Stereo thread 😆

The 2 temp reads Cold/Hot= White/Red Let's see some close ups of the cobbled together wiring harness?

If it's just the washer you can do an electric pump in the reservoir:

Classic buicks says they have them. The tubes for the hoses will probably .be shorter than original You can use Jim's tubes on the new core or rebuild his original which is what I would do.

Also, it goes without saying that it would be wise to remove the gas tank before preforming surgery. Sparks and fuel don't mix. Of course, if I were removing the gas tank already...why would I want to carve a hole in the middle of my trunk? When I'm too old to take out the fuel tank that'll probably be my last sending unit, anyway...😝

I'm not hoping things break, but from time to time fun things like wiper motors, heater cores and A/C components fail. I like the self-satisfaction that comes from a job well done. I also believe that when my car gets worked on it doesn't mean I'm giving permission to leave battle scars. Generally, that means doing it myself. Luckily, it's my hobby and have become more deft fixing and improving my toys with practice. To me it's a cornerstone of old car ownership. It's boring just looking at them like a christmas tree ornament that gets pulled down from the attic once a year. The biggest lesson I learned is: "When aggravated...walk away." This is supposed to be fun. Steve 9236

Have to clean it up and see the extent of corrosion. You have a couple lifters that were at the bottom of their travel. They'll bleed out quicker than the restwhen you shut down. They may be a little noisy at start-up. That's the route I would take for a winter project. As Tom said there's not a lot of meat to over bore. BHJ makes sleeves of oilite brass. Hardest to find is an experienced machinist with the patience for the multiple setups/passes required. Time= Big $$$$.

Sleeves. http://bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/liftersleeves/lbs.php I think the cost dictates that the engine be of some significant sentimental or historical value. Hone the worst one and let's take a look. The bottom of the bore is probably fine.

Those "hooks" go "there" LOL 😂

Kids how about these: Plentiful..I measure a strong 1 7/8"

If it were me I would get a 1 wire GM 12si style alternator. It has an internal regulator. You run your 6g wire to the positive boss on the drivers fender. Your original regulator will overheat. Select an alternator with the rear plug for your original blue/white wiring so your ammeter or warning light will function. These are all New Made in USA: Alternators & Generators at Summit Racing

All we need to do is put some foam insulation there. Here's a car under penance of my ownership: The stell tube that surrounds the steering shaft has perfect hole in it. I spray some light oil on the shaft so upcoming foam breaks smooth from the shaft. Spray expandable foam in there. Two five second blasts in the last picture. That's plenty. 5 minutes. 5 dollars. They even have black foam now.

Maybe an old body shop went under? My skeptical mind has me guessing parts like this had a fitment/manufacture had a defect in the first place, as it was ordered and never used for a reason. Also, NOS doesn't mean it won't require the same or similar prep for dings scratches dents on a 50 plus YO part. Good used = maybe 400? Shipping cost if needed is the same new or used. If one needs it and installs, it's no longer new anymore. How much are short lived bragging rights worth? I'd take the safer route and purchase used from a trusted vendor that will give me an accurate eyeball regarding sheet metal.

just roll flat stock and tack weld to desired sized diameter It'll cost about a dollar

The last picture with finger pointing is for windshield wiper hose The 2nd with the vacuum hoses in hand last probably goes to the STV (the upright tube withe the flying saucer on top), and the diaphragm ( the sideways flying saucer) with the blue silicone around it. Need to do some tracing but hoses look dry rotted and will need replacing. These are AC and heat hoses. The top picture with the triangle of bolt holes and loose pigtail is for cruise control. You will know this car inside out by the end of this project! Also.. You need a factory service manual LOL

Looks like Marlin Blue with White...Nice and have fun

Paul all three yrs were fully chromed but with body color over them other than the ledge at the top.

It's under the hood. Drivers side cowl.

Nice. Aways stuck a little piece of paper or 2 inside of the socket and pressed the bolt in with my thumb for that one..

Bob, I left the cowl grills unpainted to match the rechromed escutcheons Gene G @abandg set me up with. As we know, they had the grills painted from the factory other than the uppermost lip. The tool worked great and no more surprise scratches and gouges from screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and snap ring removers. Steve