gungeey

parts123.com Rebuild kits. Not hard to do.

I wanted to put amp up on trunk shelf but was too tight. So in keeping with a hidden system (plus I have lots of crap in the trunk):

Just sent you his info through this site's email

most of the stuff is fairly generic ( trunk, seal between front and rear windows, door weatherstrip). Soff-seal is a good name. AA1 is good. Some people say the roof rail weatherstripping is incorrect but seems to work for me. The one top dollar part that you cant get around is the vent window seal. Go with Steele Rubber for that. The window felts to the best of my knowledge are not reproduced correctly. Close, but no bend for the rear interior swipes. PS: not an easy job in a finished car

Gene is out of PA

Sounds about right. 8" subs are nice right bass. Kickers =good stuff I have one 8in sub in small sealed enclosure. That's plenty for me. Steve

Cut a couple 10-32 brass machine screws down to size ( a shy 1/2") and drive em in there. The brass won't hurt the pot metal. Notice: I actually DO the crap I say to do 😆

If the cables were corroded I would think the mirror would be stuck in place, not flopping around. I find them with the cables in the wrong slots of the know but that makes them tense up, too. They were originally color coded to prevent a mix up. Your cables look quite a bit more banged up than average. I wouldn't want to play with them too much. I'd end up scratching the inside or the outside of the car. My thought wouild be to get a badly pitted mirror (CHEAP) and gut it out to use on my good chrome bezel.

What do you have in the back seat? 2 woofers?

I've done this with the plastic vents still in place but not a 6X9 this is a 5.25". If you take out the factory vents you would of course have more room...the soundstage is great but I love the vents 😄

Yes defroster works (Though I don't know that other than heat will ever be needed) Steel wool is stuffed down the half I mauled 😇 The head unit is a Pre Amp only. It sends a signal to amplifiers in the trunk. The trunk also has a 6 CD Player. All is hidden for stealth effect. How a picture of your radio with AUX, Bob?

Feel free to add your own. If there's interest we can get into amplifier CD Changer and head unit placement

I hollowed out the original radio so there would be enough depth for the woofer., also cut back the defroster duct for clearance. Had to keep that B U I C K button set up 😆. So this system has front and rear channels as opposed to traditional L & R. Rear Speakers.. same as front.. these are vintage Polk dB series 5.25" Woofer and 1" silk and titanium tweeter with adjustable crossover network.

Starting a thread regarding the title: Aftermarket Stereo Install. This thread is for all who care to join in so others can have easy access to sound related info. From mild to wild, 1st Gen Rivieras have limitations on speaker placement. Myself, a stock looking interior is preferred. Stealth is the goal for me. Front speaker.. stock location

Nice! So where does the spare tire go? I will start a new thread for *Aftermarket Stereo Installs*. Why don't you repeat your last post there so others can research in the future. Steve

That's a nice set if the other one is in the same condition. Use liquid dish soap and a rubber hammer to gently mount them. I would wait til I have some chips on the doors then hide them with the door edge guards. A lot of people think there's a cleaner look without the door edge guards mounted. They blend better with lighter colors like yours.

Where's the amp located? Speaker location? Maybe we can start a Hi End Stereo thread 😆

The 2 temp reads Cold/Hot= White/Red Let's see some close ups of the cobbled together wiring harness?

If it's just the washer you can do an electric pump in the reservoir:

Classic buicks says they have them. The tubes for the hoses will probably .be shorter than original You can use Jim's tubes on the new core or rebuild his original which is what I would do.

Also, it goes without saying that it would be wise to remove the gas tank before preforming surgery. Sparks and fuel don't mix. Of course, if I were removing the gas tank already...why would I want to carve a hole in the middle of my trunk? When I'm too old to take out the fuel tank that'll probably be my last sending unit, anyway...😝

I'm not hoping things break, but from time to time fun things like wiper motors, heater cores and A/C components fail. I like the self-satisfaction that comes from a job well done. I also believe that when my car gets worked on it doesn't mean I'm giving permission to leave battle scars. Generally, that means doing it myself. Luckily, it's my hobby and have become more deft fixing and improving my toys with practice. To me it's a cornerstone of old car ownership. It's boring just looking at them like a christmas tree ornament that gets pulled down from the attic once a year. The biggest lesson I learned is: "When aggravated...walk away." This is supposed to be fun. Steve 9236

Have to clean it up and see the extent of corrosion. You have a couple lifters that were at the bottom of their travel. They'll bleed out quicker than the restwhen you shut down. They may be a little noisy at start-up. That's the route I would take for a winter project. As Tom said there's not a lot of meat to over bore. BHJ makes sleeves of oilite brass. Hardest to find is an experienced machinist with the patience for the multiple setups/passes required. Time= Big $$$$.

Sleeves. http://bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/liftersleeves/lbs.php I think the cost dictates that the engine be of some significant sentimental or historical value. Hone the worst one and let's take a look. The bottom of the bore is probably fine.

Those "hooks" go "there" LOL 😂