gungeey

I'm surprised the rubber sleeve isn't painted 😆

You already isolated the prob. Use your motivation to identify each hose individually on each side of the firewalland replace with new. If one is splitting or cracked they all are or soon will be. It's a one time job.

By the way, just for sh!ts I did just that.. about 6 years ago and that car gets driven a lot. No problem. The original material was about 3/32nds. The new ethanol proof stuff was thin as an inner tube.

It's not molded it's just taken on that shape from the decades. Make sure it quacks like a duck before you install it

Sign up at www.V8buick.com You'll be glad you did

I just bought a project car from a nice 75 YO gentleman that decided he couldn't keep up... who else is ready to pack it in? 🤲

After you buy Genes I'll give you 40 plus 10 shipping for the old one. Steve

I guess as long as there is an internet connection it would be doable 🙏

Take a manicure/pedicure girl out to dinner and tell her to bring her assortment of finger nail polish 😆

12 hrs away in Sidney Nebraska... storage for a year!! #1 - Rob Van Vleet's Nebraska Truck Hoard Auction #1 | Kraupie's Real Estate & Auctioneers (hibid.com)

OK, so where in the manual does it say to add an electric pump? It's your car and project my friend. Do as you please.😄

And to further illustrate the beauty of the factory system: Crank the engine as Tom says above and don't touch touch the gas pedal. Oil light goes out. Oil pressure is now up and carb has gas. Press accelerator pedal to floor and release to set the choke. Turn the key and car starts right up. Every. Single. Time.

When you drive the car often enough the fuel won't have a chance to evaporate. If everything is dialed in correctly, when an electric fuel pump prefills the carb the engine will start on a few cranks. Since it had been sitting for some time the rod and main bearings may or may not have been oiled without pressure. Just some residual oil from the last run. If it's been a while it won't be much. On the other hand, while you're you're cranking the engine with only a mechanical fuel pump waiting for the fuel bowl to fill the oiling system is also getting pressurized. That's a pretty good system right there. Would you rather have a worn out starter over time or worn out bearings? Or do it right and add an electric external oil system so the bearings are pretty lubed when the engine is fired up. I think that some of the beauty in these old cars is the simple way in which they were designed to operate.

i would be looking at a brake booster and master cylinder from that angle.

Maybe the seller took what he thought were 65 seats (but were actually 64 seats) out of a 63? 🤪

I wondered why a 65 would be equipped with 64 vinyl seats

Your vacuum reading suggests retarded timing which could cause your backfire. Is it a stock camshaft? What's your timing set to?

You are in exact location where I would be looking for sheetmetal. If you want a nice straight one with big gaping rust holes let me know 😆 Tim at www.rivicentral.com in CA will give you an honest assessment regarding condition of parts. Also, www.rivparts.com That's Larry but he may not have what you're looking for right now. Also, Gene G. But he is in Pennsylvania.

I hear the flashers at MardiGras in 1964 were very inappropriate.

It is in the shop manual. The manual says to adjust to state specs.

Two things I do when getting a "new to me" 63/4/5: Go through the brakes and disconnect the harness for the center console. An old timer named Dick Sweeney taught me 20 or so years ago that it has been the source of fire. I doubt circumstances have changed for the better in that time. The wire sheathing shrinks, especially in the west coast cars where hotter climate, the ends fray from repeated disassembly during repairs. The dried up cardboard heater duct is right in there alongside a set of 60 YO cigar lighters. Perfect storm. Since then I have had personal knowledge of a total loss with a very nice 63 due to fire. So, it's really not so important to me that I see what gear I'm in with a three speed automatic. Steve 9236

You dont happen to have a picture of the timing cover when you had the water pump off? The thermosta might open but do you can you see turbulation in the radiator with the cap off?

Philip you say the water pump is new did you put it in? Your engine timing cover could be corroded behind the pump vanes to the point of needing replacement. It's not uncommon. Start the car with engine cold and radiator cap removed. As engine reches operating temp the thermostat should open, starting a lot of visible coolant movement. With that said, if you were my next door neighbor in France my gut would check ignition timing before anything else.

Had to send him one back

Count me as #2