Grimy

Body wood and aluminum rear panel will be difficult, requiring much money or considerable skills and time; these are the potential show stoppers. *IF* the seat frames and springs are there, upholstery won't be any more difficult than many other interior jobs.

Bumper. wheels, and door handles & latches are available used from PAS members. I have an extra ready-to-install steering wheel available for $300. The radiator cap is reproduced in Delrin from a gent in NY.

Look at the Lock-n-Stitch website http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html for an explanation of their excellent pinning process, and perhaps ask them if they have a franchise near you. Lock-n-Stitch is the gold standard for repairing casting cracks, and are used by the Northern Calif Caterpillar dealer and Waste Management for that purpose. Depending on where you are, it may be worth shipping your block to them for it to be done right the first time. I have no connection with them except as a perfectly satisfied customer--they saved a Pierce block for me which no one else would touch. Prices are very reasonable for what you get. Of course, FIRST determine if the issue is only a core plug.

Perhaps.... When I was first driving, 60 years ago, most jerk-drivers drove Cadillacs, then switched to MBz, and then to BMWs. Of course, that was California.... When we meet--and we must someday--I'll tell you about "lesser (Federal) agencies."

Our friend The Godfather failed to attend the PAS mini-meet at Callaway Gardens, GA last week and I missed conversing with him on his experiences/stories with you, inter alia. AH, the complexity--Heaven forfend! Well, you're experienced on RRs, so you have a head start. See the attachment.

Yes, the 80 and 81 were on 130-inch wheelbases, and the 1921-28 Series 32/33/36 were on 138-inch wheelbases. The 80s are certainly much more agile than their big brothers, but were equipped with the same brake components--except the 80/81 lacked the power booster of the Series 36 1927-28.

I see California plates on this WONDERFUL car, so I suggest you take the block to Lock-n-Stitch in Turlock, CA, the absolute gold standard in the crack repair industry. These engines are rare enough that it must be done right the first time. I have no connection with them other than as a delighted customer. They may chose to weld or perhaps their patented pinning process; they are the experts--and not at all expensive for what you get! http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html has an excellent explanation. This is a superb Hupp with all the superb Art Deco and Streamline themes, and it deserves all the care you can lavish on it.

In case you're not aware, on a car equipped with a clutch brake, depress the clutch pedal all the way ONLY at a stop, as in shifting into 1st or reverse. While underway, depress the clutch pedal only half-way for shifts so as to NOT actuate the clutch brake. I suggest you have someone depress the clutch to different levels while you see at which point in the pedal travel that the clutch brake engages--then adjust either the brake or your driving techniques.

I'm a happy Series 80 owner for 24 years, and this one is not mine, although I have provided some mechanical advice by telephone to the apparent current owner in Alameda. I have not seen this car but saw photos when it was on rural property in northern California. And I had another Series 80, in the fairly rare four-passenger coupe body style, from 1995 to 2016 (many photos in our Gallery under my screen name); that car (coupe) received an impeccable restoration in 1983 commissioned by the owner I acquired it from, and was still show-ready with 12K post-restoration miles when I sold it for over $50K. BTW, I don't think the OP is the owner of the subject car. Series 80 was indeed Pierce-Arrow's junior varsity model with a L-head engine (not the dual valve) of 289 cid with 70 hp out of six 3.5 x 5 cylinders, seven main bearings, roller cam followers, and built to the same quality standards as the senior (Series 33/36) cars. In fact, it was the S80 sedan that I still own that changed me from an eclectic collector (eight cars, no two of the same marque) to one focusing on Pierce-Arrows. I have driven my retained Series 80, an amateur freshening circa 1962, at least 20K miles including about eight challenging four or five day Modoc Tours at altitudes of 4,000 feet and up, and it has never come home on a hook. They are not fast cars (about 45 mph cruise) unless you fit an overdrive (I added a 26% Mitchell, which makes it a different car). The S80 was designed to compete with the Packard (Single) Six of the 1920s, but the initial "Deluxe" model (slightly domed roof, two-piece windshield, radiused quarter windows, mahogany window mouldings) was $650 more than a comparable Packard 6 body style, so the "Coach" series was soon implemented at a price $650 below the Deluxe series. My 1925 Deluxe five-passenger sedan had a base price of $3,895 at the factory, and my coupe was $3,695 -- quite expensive at the time, but far less than a Series 33. Bodies are sheet aluminum over a northern white ash framework. Parts are available from Pierce-Arrow Society members but are not usually advertised -- one must network within the club. Readily available Cadillac flathead V8 pistons and rings (1937-48) can be used. The subject car is a Coach Series with extremely unusual sidemounted spares. The rear door seems to have been added later in its life, so some woodwork and metal work in the rear body section will be needed. Again, I have not inspected this car, and from what I see it's a crapshoot on whether it's worth restoring or should be relegated to parts car status. A Series 80 is an excellent first or entry-level Pierce, but it is not for you if you must have the biggest, best, most luxurious, rarest, and other superlatives. S80 is a good choice for a low-initial-cost "Full Classic." This one will require someone with a large checkbook or time and skills.

It's definitely for a Pierce 12, and the 12s (and the 8s thru 1936) used dual points, of which one set fired odd numbered cylinders and the other set fired even numbered cylinders.

Correct -- block letters are 1946 only; 1947 is "cursive" so to speak.

I agree with Matt to try with and without to see if problems are reduced or aggravated--this may vary by make and model. Belly pans (as on my 1918 Pierce) are indeed a huge PIA today (must be removed to change the lower radiator hose, for example) but were necessary for the road conditions of the time, and especially to protect the Pierce's external, exposed oil pump and lines. What we are calling splash pans were called "DUST pans" by much of the repair literature of the 1920s-1930s, again reflecting the road conditions of the day. If you have at the base of your steering column a headlight switch and spark and throttle control linkage, splash/dust pans are helpful today. Pragmatically, assuming show points are not a consideration, is there a benefit in retaining them for YOUR driving? Your call.

Also note the Van Auken grille guard on the front and another Van Auken override protector on the rear.

I think it's a 1949 with the wide all-chrome trunk handle vs. the 1950's smaller and partially painted trunk handle. Also agree that distortion is responsible for making the back window look like 1953 Mercury. I'd go with 1954, perhaps plus no more than a year, based on the police car being a quite clean 1954.

Easy with a test light or VOM on each fuse. One side will always be hot from the main feed, but the other side will tell you if the fuse is good. Always a good idea in these circumstances to remove each fuse and clean the fuse panel contacts on both sides of each fuse. You'll solve it, Eddie, be patient and proceed step by step!

The Travelodges' independent suspension (changed to a solid axle on the eBay offering) is wonderful, especially when you cross railroad tracks at a diagonal to the roadway, or encounter roadway imperfections. Travelodges had a tubular leading arm and a 1/4-elliptical trailing arm. Houdaille shocks were optional on the smallest Model C (13.5-ft "can") but standard on Models A (19 ft can) and B (16.5 ft can). The Nethercutt Collection's Model A was modified with a Pierce-arrow auto dropped solid front axle, apparently so they could use Pierce-Arrow auto wheels and hubcaps, and thus stands about 6 inches taller than a factory Model A. It also has interior period mods including a Servel refrigerator and high-gloss lacquered dark-finished woods. The wood finish is spectacular for photography and for 2 or 3 minutes, after which the glare gets too you.

Not necessary other than cleaning connections and replacing any damaged wire. Your 6V factory wiring has less resistance than smaller 12V wiring if it is in good condition. I mentioned this a week ago in an earlier post.

The primary restoration problem with P-A Travelodges is that they were built with steel frames and aluminum skins, separated by (essentially) tarpaper. That insulating material disintegrates over time, and contact of dissimilar metals fosters corrosion, especially of the aluminum.

edinmass, trimacar, and I all have Pierce-Arrow Travelodges. Additionally, in Calif there is a LOT of vintage trailer collecting--not so much touring as static displays in campgrounds both public and private. The ironstone Concours (late Sept in Murphys, CA) always has a class for vintage trailers and their owners are allowed to camp on the concours grounds the night before and the night after the show.

The bracket did indeed hold an oil can--that is, an "oiler" with spout. The hole in the air silencer may have been for a crankcase vent tube, so that crankcase vapors were drawn into the intake.

Hey Bill / CatBird, look for a 1936-38 Pierce, which have factory 30% overdrive, which will give you 70 mph at only 2,700 rpm.

That is powerful stuff! I keep some on hand ONLY for securing a new radiator hose to a corroded water pump neck, and next time it will be necessary to cut the hose off to replace it. Had a heck of a time removing the cylinder head on my 1922 Paige--it wouldn't budge. So with my usual eye bolts installed through the bases of take-apart spark plugs in cylinders #2 and #5, attached to a tilting lift device hanging from a cherry picker engine hoist, the hoist lifted the front of the car almost off the floor while I attacked the asbestos center of the old gasket with hardwood wedges. No joy. I let the front wheels hang an inch off the floor for about two days while I did something else. I was indeed doing something else when all of a sudden the front of the car dropped to the floor, with the now-free head loose but captive on its studs. It took me four hours to remove the copper gasket remnants from the head and deck. Yes, the Previous Owner, lacking a new head gasket, had used Indian Head shellac on both copper sides of the old head gasket. It did its intended job well, but presented a significant problem for the Next Custodian--ME!

It has been a LONG time since I had a HV12, specifically a 1948 Continental, but I remember very well that one of the inherent issues of those engines is that they have insufficient venting of crankcase gases. Therefore, don't plug the road draft tube but rather improve venting, perhaps by a PCV. The Ocee Ritch book of the mid-1960s describes a number of modifications including adding a Y-block V8 crankcase vent, a fan to help disperse crankcase gases, and others. I'm sure some of the current Lincoln owners will chime in with the latest and most optimal means of addressing this issue. Please wait for them to provide the best information. In this writing, I just wanted to ask you to hold your horses until more knowledgeable parties can give you the best guidance.

I'd remove one belt, then test. Then the next... Why take all off? Actually, I'd replace ALL the belts on general principles.....

Same procedure with my 1930 Pierce and a friend's 1931 Studebaker President ,for COLD starts only. Both are equipped with Stromberg UUR-2 carbs. It didn't "seem right" to me either, and is a more convoluted process than used on my other updraft-equipped cars but I couldn't find a way equally effective even after checking everything. So I live with it.