critterpainter

AIrplane tickets are bought...resevations are made.. and i am planning to raid my piggybank...And MY BOSS says... I am going so everyone else.. please show up.. It would be nice to meet you'all Bill

Jim: if you think chrome is $$$ wait till you try to find a GOOD paint shop Bill (Jim thinks he is painter )

The other half of the battle is waged behind the scenes. That is for a business that supplies the antique car industy to find competent rebuilding shops. It is NOT easy. 90% of the "jobber shops" that rebuild parts day in and day out to suppy the parts houses use "hardly trained" employees that only know to "drill this out-rivit this on" and not how to inspect the product. If you find a shop that truly cares usually the price is so high that you are WAY not conpetative and your parts sit on the shelf gathering dust or "sorry we don't work on that 'old junk'". Add to the mix the good old EPA that has changed the types of materials that can be used. The materials rccomended to be used on many of our old cars just is not legal anymore Granted there are replacement materials out there that are better but often its the cheaper inferior product that is offered by the rebuilder and they don't even bother to let people know a higher quality line is available. Ain't old car restoration grand??? Bill PS I just used some white lead to lubricate a part on one of my way older cars. remember that stuff??

Tommy is right. Acually lead as an additive was not used til the early thirtys. Cars before that ran on "white gas" now known as unleaded.

DON'T USE NON-DETERGENT. It is was never intended for your engine, not even whaen the car was new. Use a good modern mulit-viscosity oil. Your car will love you for it. As far a the worry of a "detergent " oil loosening up the sludge in a sudden motion....won't happen. It will help clean the passages in the engine. But it does it slowly. Do change the oil when dirty regardless of what the milage on the oil is. Bill

Bobs Automobilia has restored literally 100's of these switches for customers. They reproduce 80% of the parts needed to repair the switch. Give them a call at 805 434 2963 and talk to Bob Jr. Bill

My boss just gave me a similar job last Wed after he bought a car on E-Bay. I used this website http://www.auto-transport-reviews.com/ and read between the lines a lot. I picked up a dart and threw it at the screen and picked one. The quote was around $940 from eastern OK to near San Luis Obispo Calif on an open trailer. The car is a running 39 Buick. Unfortunatly for you I will not be able to leave any feedback as to performance as I was quoted 10-20 days and I am going on vacation next week. However when the car is delivered.. I will post to this thread so others will knowhow it went. I am actually usiing a broker as they have more access to drivers and hopefully can get the car moved a bit faster. I did pick one in CA just in case I have an issue with the move. Billl

Break-in proceedure also depends on what the piston ring is made of. If you overlube some types of rings during assembly they will never seat. I just don't recall what type of ring this is (chrome or moly). I learned this one many years ago the hard way, and had to re-ring an engine with only 500 miles on it and NOT lube the rings duriing assembly. bill

the parking brake pedal pas is the same pad used on the clutch/brake pedal, just turned 90 degrees

Ok so I can't spell... tat is the same seal used on the Model A Ford...Kinda exlaines the puddle of oil doesn't it Bill

Jim Swanson in Sactramento has an excellent reputation and has been rebuilding straight 8 buicks since he was knee-high to a grasshopper. Unfortunatly I don't have his phone # handy, however he advertises in the bugle and I believe in the buick section of Hemmings also. Gary dutweiller of Buelton also is skilled at Buick engine rebuilding. Bill

I believe that if the car has a Dynaflow it would have hyd lifters. BUT if you have a manual trans then you will have mechanical lifters. You cannot change from mech to hyd or visa-versa without changing the camshaft as the profile is different. Bill

Do you have an early 48 or a manual trans??? Most 48 roadmasters had hydraulic lifters I thought?? or did someone remove the hyd lifters and switch over to mech lifters without changing cams??? Bill

Yea that does sound backwards. Buicks usually had the filtered oil go to the valve train. To be sure, crank the engine over with the line open and see where the oil comes out. Bill

There are many engineering features used now that people take for granted. Valve seals are one. You will also have a hard time finding a rear main seal for that engine It used a "laberynth" seal! Bill

best guess...rings If the car has been sittiing possibly a stuck ring or broken rings. Those old straight eights did NOT use valve seals and so many often showed a little blue smoke on acceration. If it need rebuilding install 39 and later pistons in it to increase the compression a little. It will make a difference. bill

Unfortunatly Paul Weaver passed away about 2 1/2 months ago. Another good parts supply lost to time Bill

My favorite car that I sold was my 71 MGB IT was a blast to drive and I abused (er drove) it for 3 years until it was drinking a quart of oil every 200 miles and the tires were rags. I remember making more that one trip to and from Paso Robles to the bay area with the throttle on the floor most of the way. Hmmmm wonder how it got worn out?? car I wish I had NEVER sold 64 e-type coupe. I was broke and going to college and I bought it to help fund my education. I was driving it it town one Fri nite and a girl came up behind me and blinked her headlights and pointed to a nearby restaurant....easiest date I ever made Bill

Bill Rule number 2564 Never get between 2 Buicks trying to mate sorry to hear that the 47 had a mind of its own, but I glad to hear that your ok and that the 47 is going to Batavia. Bill

The basic fact is...they LOVE to leak. My suggstion is to 1. read the shop manual carefully reguarding the torque ball adjustment so YOU understand it. 2. look for an outer retainer with the rubber vulcanized to it. (These are NOT currently be re-produced so you will have to find either a N.O.S. one or an used one and have it revulcanized by Steele Rubber) I have been told (but have NOT verified) that you can replace your outer retainer with one used in the late 50's with the rubber seal vulcanized to it. Hope this helps and hope someone else posts to help clarify things for both you and me. Bill

To remove the inside door and window handles, one unscrews the eschution behind the handle itself. IF you are lucky some of them will unscrew. They are made of die-cast and with age inner-granular corrosion sets in and swells the parts locking them into place rather well. Good luck Bill

sure your not looking at a "T" block.? Factory replacement "A" heads had script on them. Have not heard of engines tho with a script. Bill

Bill S is referring to Kieth Bingham somewhere in washington state. I have seen both 1 3/4 and 2" wide brakes on 51 buicks. (there was an option in the early 50's for "heavy duty" brakes)

It can be simple or elusive. I had one car with ONE worn cam lobe...weak spark on that cylinder. it was a bear to find. i have also come across a dist cap with very high resistance on one terminal.. don't know why but it was not an easy one to find either. worn bushings in the dist itself can also be a problem. bill

You also said your trans is making a little noise. If the torque ball has been leaking your trans has had a lack of oil. You would be well-advised to replace the bearings NOW before one fails and does some impressive damage. Also make sure the bushing in your shift linkage are tight so that the gears are fully engaging when you shift. I hate driving a car that likes to slip out of gear. Bill