critterpainter

The "improvement " on the ex maniflod that Bobs sells has nothing to do with performance. It has an exra rib on to help strenthen it and help it to dissapate heat, as these manifolds do have a bad habit of cracking. Bill

Posting that question here is like asking a member of PETA the best way to cook venison You would be better off asking that question at a "street rod" website as that kind of "upgrade" is NOT one that is reversable bill

Steve erred BIG TIME in his description...BUT.... You are put of line expecting him to pay freight to return the part! Look at it this way.. Had you DRIVEN to pick up the bumper, and rejected it, you would not have asked to be re-imbursed for the gas. Likewise if you buy something at a "downtown" store, if you have to return the item, you don't get paid for your time and effort. Buying over the internet is easy (perhaps too easy) and you have to take steps to protect yourself. This applies to both the buyer and the seller. Just my 2 cents Bill

another area to check is the battery itself. Too many of the 6v batteries available today just don't have the ampacity to crank a hot engine. Iknow notheing about battterys, but I do know you won't be happy with a cheap battery. My simple minded method is the heavier the better. Bill

IN a non-presurized system, some water will be lost due to expansion as the water warms up. IF you fill the radiator to the very top it will loose water to a constant but unknown (as of yet) level. Also are you sure that water is curculating in the system? Starting in the 30's Buick had an annoying thermostat bypass that if it got weak or failed would not allow water to flow into the radiator, but rather by-pass through the water pump and into the engine without ever seeing the radiator. Bill

1951& 52 buick Super front fenders should interchange

You will also have to dis-assemble the torque converter and remove a snap ring to access the front pump seal. I assume that this is the seal that you are wanting to change. bill

If the engine/trans in your Volvo needs replacing its a lemon or it was totaly neglected. on the 4cyl of those years, the worst that usually happens is that the camshaft siezes due to lack of maintanance (read you didn't change the oil often enough). This is not the disater that most shops try to tell you it is. Use LOTS of carb cleaner...remove the camshaft....remove the spark plugs ...spray carb cleaner in the oil passage hole in the bottom of the center cam bearing (I think this is the one) and crank the engine til oil starts flowing again. reassemble change oil more often and drive another 300,0000 miles Bill

Are you looking for the choke assembly??? This is the part that operates the "butterfly" on the top of the carburator over the 2 front barrels. It also increases the idle speed when the engine is cold.

You are at the point where you have to make the decision between rebuilding and overhauling. If your engine were still in the car and it was mine I would most likely re-ring and drive it while I saved the coinage to have he engine rebuilt. You didn't mention the condition of the crankshaft or the rod and main bearings so I am assuming that they my be in need of help. This puts you well on the way down the slippery slope towards a proper rebuild. Yes the parts are expensive, but carefull planning and using a good machine shop (with machinists that know old engines and old technology) can give you a reliable engine that will last many many miles. If you have an oil well in your back yard or want the "best" contact Jim Swanson in Sacramento Ca. I don't have his ph # handy but if you call Bobs Automobilia at 805-434-2963 they will be glad to give it to you. Bill

You did not state on your post what year car you were inquiring about. Cars of the 30's did not have a "safty bead" on them to help keep the tire on the wheel. This is the raised bead just inward of where the tire fits on the rim. Its purpose is to obviously help prevent the bead of the tire from becoming dislodged during cornering. I have been told at some time in my distant youth that it was not wise to run untubed radials on non-saftey beaded wheels. I have no idea if this is a wives tale or based on fact. but I thought it was worth mentioning. Bill

The earlier rear fenders and the later rear renders do NOT interchange. One pickup bed (I can't recall if its early or late) has an embosed area and is not smooth on the side of the bed. The fenders have a step in them where they bolt to the bed to accomodate this body line. Bill

I have only seen and worked on one Meadows engine. It was a six cyl in a 48 Invicta saloon. At first glance I thought it was a Jaguar engine. Nope...no such luck.. Jaguars are much easier to work on. I can still remember lying under the car and trying to install the oil line to the main bearings. Holding the gasket,line, crush washer, flat washer and nut and not dropping anything. Very pretty engine to look at. Bill

So does this mean that you are holding a DF meeting in Bakersfield in April??? Bill

I know that in some years the engine was a twin to the engine used in the ford 9N and 8N tractors, and that is NOT the same as a "b" engine although some parts interchange. Bill

You mean that your NOT supposed to log on through their link and "create" information off the top of your head?? I find it great fun to create screen names, creative birthdates, and fanciful social security #, and the access number to my "secret" Arruba bank account Bill

Fr Mike Does your engine use a pushrod between the fuelpump and the camshaft?? I know some of the early buicks do, and that the pushrods do wear therefor limiting the ability of the fuelpump to move enough fuel. 6 volt fuel pumps are available (bobs Automobilia has them) There are two types of electric fuel pumps---pulse and rotary.. you can use a mechanical pump to draw fuel through a pulse type pump when the pulse type is not powered, but a rotary pump must run all the time. don't know if a rotary pump is available iin 6 volt Bill

Ya gots to love dialup at 19k... it teaches you patience bill

You might try northwest transmission.... look em up in hemmings

I bought an 87 ford pu that the prior owner had NEVER changed the oil on. I removed the oil filter and cranked the engine to drain it as it would NOT pass through the drain hole. refilled it with 4 qts ATF and 1 qt oil. ran the engine for one hour. drained and refilled with 4 qts oil and 1 qt ATF. changed oil after 100 miles. After that it got oil changes every 3K miles. 50K miles later I had to pull the pan to replace a leaky gasket. the pan was SPOTLESS. ATF is very high detergent and will clean sludge Bill

a friend of mine has a framed ticket hanging on the dining room wall. He got a ticket in 1967 for going 60 in a 35 mph zone. the Judge threw it out cause he knew a "T" could not do 60. (what he didn't know is that that T had a Fronty head on it and some other mods). bill

Are you SURE the battery is OK? Some of the 6volt batts on the market today won't do the job. There is a tractor supply chain east of the Mississippi that sells 6 volt batterys that won't start a worn out Model a ford when new. I learned this the hard way. The 3 year old battery in my other A started the same vehicle just fine. Bill

I don't know what it fits. I think its Olds or Pontiac but don't know for sure. Only thing I know is that it is NOT Buick Bill

Nice looking car Snappy Obviously you were not afraid to drive it. Great shot of Morro Rock bill

I live on the Calif central coast and drive the backroads to work. MY current daily driver is an 93 Miata with 180k miles on it. My backup cars (yes I drive these to work when I am in the mood) are 62 Metro convertable and a 28 model a coupe. I doubt if you can get antique car ins for a "daily driver". There is an antique Buick parts suppler in the area (Atascadero) so if you get a Buick parts won't be an issue. Bobs is WELL stocked. Tne downside of driving these older cars is in their handling. I have to put up with what I call "mexican rush hour" when the farm workers go flying to work at the winerys in their cars and race each other home. Not fun having them coming at you and passing on a blind corner. I was driving an 89 mustang GT convert that day or I would not be here typing this. (no contact as the msustang handled GREAT and I was able to get out of the way) could not have done that in the "A" and would have been dificult in the metro. Bill