critterpainter

Did you look in the shop manual? I know for the mid-40's and older there was a page showinig the mounts and thier location. You will have to do a little homework but it is at least a start. The mounts can be bought from steele or bob's automobilia (bobs is cheaper than steele and the mounts will come from steele) Bill

The movie "the junkman", a grade "b" movie if there ever was one, was filmed near where I live. When I watched the movie several years later and saw some of the wrecks, I recognized many of the vehicles as being "local" cars. The movie company pruchased several used cars so they could wreck them. I was also in the warehouse where the cars were being stored and saw 2 new or near new Z cars that had their sub-frames and inner fenders partially cut so the front of the car would rip off in a collision. The also must have gone to every used police car auction for months to get enough cop cars to destroy. Bill

On my Model A, I was wondering whay it was taking 6 qts of oil the answer lay at my feet

The heat riser should be OPEN. Fuel has changed a LOT since this design and is much more willing to vaprize now than it did 50 years ago. Unless you drive your car daily in -20 weather you have no use for the heat riser. If it is left closed you WILL crack an exhaust manifold. Guaranteed. If the weight is at about the 1 oclock or 2 oclock and close to the block the odds are that it IS open. Bill

Remove the lock cyl assy and see what broke. To remove the lock cyl you will have to read the shop manual as I have forgotten the proceedure....but it is simple to remove if you havethe key

Back in the 70's the mixture of gasoline and styrafoam was known as "bathtub napalm" by some of the more radical groups, stuck to things pretty well while burning. Billl

The last trans I pulled out of a Buick was a 52 Super...it took 2 people 45 min to remove it It can take MUCH longer if you don't know that the two bolts that hold the rear coil spring to the differential are LEFT HAND THREAD If you do remove the flywheel, you will have to remove the oil pan to re-install the bolts for the flywheel. (you can push them back to remove the flywheel, but you can't pull them back out far enough to put the nuts on) hope this helps and does not make the job sound tooo difficult Bill

Bob Carrubba IS "Bobs Automobilia"

Parts for this car virtuallly impossible to locate.....I know ..I have a 28 66A Bill

I HATE to stand up for cars in ANY way.....BUT.....freight shipping companys are their own form of shysters. I have called and gotten quotes from freight shipping comanys (not parcel companys like Fed-ex or ups) so that I could accuratly quote costs to a customer.... and when the customer received the part (an engine and transmission) he was down my throat because shippiing costs were not what I quoted........ the shipping company re-rated the pallett (thank you federal government for sticking your nose into private business) and trebled the cost. they also jack the price WAY up for COD freight.. I cringe whenever I have to use a freight company. IT is often cheaper to ship goods from Taiwan to Los Angeles by ship than to move that cargo by truck 175 from LA to its final destination. Bill

Like Straight Eight said....check the shift linkage bushings. These little "turkeys" KILL transmissions if they are shot. The trans will not fully engage the gear when shifting and the load is carried b the syncros, causing fast failure. it also sounds like you may wnat to at least put new bearings in your trans. Bill

NO The 60-70-80 series camshafts will not interchange with a 248 engine unless you caut about 3" off them. the 320 engine is longer. I believe you can use any special or super camshaft. Since you are having a "custom' gind done it will not matter if you use a hyd lifter cam or a mech lifter cam. The cam differece between the two is the lobe profile that you will be changing anyway. Bill

There are rebuilders that can rebuild YOUR vacuum pump, but I do not know if they sell them outright. These fuel pumps are fairly generic, Stewart made lots of them and they were used on many many different cars in the 20's and very early thirtys. If you buy one at a swap meet, odds are pretty good that it will fit. Bill

You can modify the std crank to make it work. I think the end of the crnak needs to be machined to accept the centering piece on the torque converter. Bill

Yes, the torque converter must be disassembled to reach the snap ring to slide the back half of the converer off. This is also done to change the front pump seal. The assy does NOT slide off as in a modern car Bill

Tip number 2 Egge supplies Grant rings for many of their pistons

Do some homework before buying pistons!!!!!!! Your car has flat-top pistons I believe and the later engines use a dome-top piston. the dome top will up the compression ratio without hurting the engine and are cheaper to buy. Also have you checked with Bob's Automobilia??? for parts.

The transmissions are quite reliable...but quite sluggish too, especially with a heavy wooden car. The power steering is quite uncommon and can be hard to find parts for. Bobs Automobilia can get reseal and rebuild kits for the dynaflow and has a dynafow service manual. Are you familiar with a company known as "SWADI" in India??? They are currently rebuilding 2 Buick straight 8 engines ( I know yours is a V8) and may be of some help...i do not know for sure...but it might be worth lookinig into Bill

Leaking head gasket (combustion leak)....tired and collapsing radiator hoses....glazed fan belt....bad advance unit on distributer.???? just a few of the out of the ordinary caues I have come accross to cause overheating bill

I don't know for sure....but I was told at one time that chev PU was "backwards" to the late 40's buick on the mount holes.....Bill

I may be completly wrong here.....and it won't be the first time.....but do you have a slot-head screw on the hub just inboard of the hubcap??? I believe that is for either grease or oil. An owners or shop manual should help answer the question....and they are available from bob's automobilia 805-434-2963. Its real commom for those hubs to stick HARD to the axle....to remove you have to pull the diff cover and remove the nut from the other end of the axle. Bill

I know that Bobs carrys both Metro and Steele, and he sells Steele products for less than you can buy them for from Steele. Bill

Is it a problem due to that carb leaking fuel ? (if so the carb has problems) or is it an adjustment problem with the choke? From what you are saying, the hard start is when the engine is cold. that could be caused by the need for a tune-up or a mal-adjusted choke. My method to start "stubbern" Buicks is to 1. Pump the gas pedal 3-4 times 2. turn on key 3. slowly pump the throttle while the engine cranks (short strokes so the engine does not stop cranking). This usually -but not always -works. If the car is still a turkey, pop the air cleaner and lay your hand over the top of the carb for 2-3 seconds while the car is cranking. If this makes it start.....fix the choke. If the carb is dry (and the ONLY WAY to assertain this is to remove the lid, don't trust the accellerator pump) you have other problems such as a missing heat isolator (the super thick gaskel under the carb) or internal seeps. Gas normally cannot siphon out of the bowl back to the fuelpump. One obvious reason is that the fuel usually comes into the TOP of the fuel bowl, not the bottom and there is an air gap formed between the float needle valve and the fuel level if the fuel drops even 1/16 of an inch. If you think I am wrong..disconnect your fuel line from the carb when you park it...I'll bet when you reconnect the line in the AM to start it....your bowl will still be empty, and you just ruled out the fuel pump. Just my 2 cents Bill

yea and half the time it isn't the part that is bad..but rather the sensor that says the part is bad thats faulty

Yes...assuming both engines use the same transmission. ie dynaflow to dynaflow NOT dynaflow to stick. Bill