Fred Rawling

I use radial truck tires on my 1935 Buick. It rides nicer and does not follow the ruts in the road as bias ply tires do.

They are not for any Buicks from 1922 to 1930. Fred

The rod bearings should be 0.002 clearance. I believe that the mains should be the same. Quot from the 1925 master shop manual: The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear center main bearing. This bearing should have a total end clearance of not less than 0.007 inches and not more than .020 inches. Other main bearings should have from 1/64 in. to 1/32 in clearance at each end. Run out of the crank shaft should not be greater than .002 inch. The 1927 shop manual gives the same information and specifies that it is for all series cars so you should be the same on your 1926 engine. I also found my written note that the clearance on the main bearings is .002. If anyone knows that I am wrong, please jump in and correct me. Fred

HOW ABOUT $15.00. I WILL PUT IT ON E-BAY NEXT WEEK IF NO ONE WANTS IT.

SOLD

SOLD,

NOW $19,OOO.OO

THE 1926 ROADSTER IS NOW $19,000.00 Fred

PRICE REDUCED TO $24,000.

I do not have one for a 1925. Fred For a fast response, use fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670

I think that Dave Chambers in his article said that mufflers from late 1940's G.M. Trucks would work.

1929 REFERENCE BOOK OR OWNERS MANUAL $18.00 POST PAID IN THE U.S.A. NICE CONDITION BUT SOME STAINS ON THE COVERS. WHATEVER WAS SPILLED ON THE COVER WENT THROUGH TO A COUPLE OF THE INSIDE PAGES. INCLUDED IS THE ENVELOPE MAILED IN 1947 BY BUICK MOTOR DIVIISON. IT LOOKS LIKE BACK THEN, BUICK WAS SELLING LEFT OVER MANUALS. CONTACT ME AT fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670

I am sorry, I forgot to put in the price. $32,000.00. It is a superb restoration. I think that he re-spoked the wheels with stainless steel spokes. I am looking for documentation on that now. I may have to go to see the car with a magnet. The wheels alone are probably worth $6,000. 00 or more. I have seen original sets needing restoration offered for $4,500.00.

For my 1928 Master, I took the timing cover and the pulley to a real bearing supply house . The guy measured them both and got me a new neoprene seal. pretty easy.Fpr tje 1928 ser 120 & 178, the seal number is National 472635 or SKF 15450 available through Napa also. Fred

I did not have time to read the whole post so if you still need the pipe from the rocker to the heat, I have one off a 28 Master that looks like it is the same as yours. It is yours if you want to risk the postage. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670 are the surest ways to contact me. Fred

THIS IS THE OTHER CAR THAT THE FAMILY OF MY FRIEND BUZZ PITZEN HAS TO SELL. IT IS ALSO AN IMPECCABLE RESTORATION. 1928 Buick Roadster Deluxe Fully restored, excellent condition, show ready. Runs perfectly. Sherry Pitzen Orange County CA 310 387-8801 slpitzen@gmail.com CONTACT SHERRY. I AM JUST HELPING OUT. FRED

This car belonged to and was restored by my friend Buzz Pitzen who passed away a few weeks ago. His daughter has it for sale for $26,000. Buzz did impeccable work. I think that this car would win a Senior at the National. Call her for more photos or to see the car. It is in Fullerton, Ca. Fred 1926 Buick Roadster Fully restored, excellent condition, show ready. Runs perfectly. Sherry Pitzen Orange County CA 310 387-8801

Most of this is still available. If I have not talked with you, send me an e-mail at fred.rawling@live.com or call 562 644-4670. I do not get on this forum often. The flywheel cover is not available.

Hi Darren, I talked to you yesterday about the gas peddle. I also need the covers that go against the gas tank between the fender and the gas tank. How much for the parts or do I have to buy the whole car to get them. Fred Rawling fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

THIS IS A USED BOOK. THE PAGES ARE CLEAN EXCEPT FOR THE BACK PAGE WHICH HAS SOME DIRT STREAKS ON IT BUT STILL VERY READABLE. NO TORN PAGES. THE BACK COVER HAS BEEN REPLACED BY A PIECE CUT FROM A FILE FOLDER. $7.50 POST PAID IN THE USA. PLEASE CONTACT ME AT fred.rawling@live.com as I am not on this forum very often

Keep in mind that the shop manual says to tighten the nut really tight because if it loosens, you could break an axle. 50 -50 trans fluid and acetone is the new penetrating oil. Try it on that tough nut.

On the large series cars, the hub unbolts from the wheel and the axle pulls out with the hub attached. On the small series cars the axle passes through the hub which is permanent on the wheel. To remove the wheel from the axle without a wheel puller, jack up the opposite wheel from the one you want to remove. Loosen the nut on the wheel you want to remove to the end of the axle. Place a piece of 2 x 4 against the nut and hit it with a heavy hammer. The wheel should become loose. Please do not try the barbaric method of loosening the nut and driving the car until the wheel comes loos. That looks like an invitation for disaster, or at least a broken axle key. Fred Fred

That is the nice thing about Buicks, you do not have to chase after matching numbers. Fred

If you need the U bolts, send me the measurements. I have a box full from 1926 - 1930 cars which look the same. If I have the correct ones, you can have them for the postage. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670

This is where I bought my Brass freeze plugs. http://freezeplugfactory.com/. The price was very very reasonable. I would only use brass. Change all you can reach easily and buy enough for those hard to reach places because you will need them. I use a screwdriver to tap one edge of the plug to push that edge into the block BUT NOT ALL THE WAY IN. The opposite edge will or should move out as you tap the edge of the plug in. Grab it with vice grips and pull it out. I slso use Permatex # 2 non hardening to coat the edge of the freeze plug. Terry's tool looks better than pounding them in with a wrench socket. Fred