Fred Rawling

IF IT DOES NOT FIRE, I WOULD START WITH THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT BEFORE MESSING WITH THE CARBURETOR. IF YOU THINK IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. SPRAY SOME STARTING FLUID I THE CARB AND TRY THAT. IT IS A LOT EASIER THAN REMOVING THE CARBURETOR.

HAVE YOU CHECKED THE CONDENSER?

THIS IS AN ORIGINAL FOOT REST WITH THE WASHERS AND NUTS. IT HAS BEEN CLEANED OF RUST AND PRIMERED. $15.00 PLUS POSTAGE FASTEST WAY TO CONTACT ME IS fred.rawling@live.com

1946 TO 1949 SERIES 40 SHIELD FOR THE FRONT AND REAR BUMPER GUARD GROUP 7.830 PART # 1331653 FRONT BUMPER UPPER RAIL. ALSO LISTED AS GROUP 7.799 PART # 1331653 REAR BUMPER GUARD UPPER RAIL $35.00 PLUS POSTAGE FASTEST WAY TO CONTACT ME IS fred.rawling@live.com

DYKE'S 4TH EDITION. THE COVER IS TAPPED ON. THE FIRST 4 PAGES ARE LOOSE. NO FINGER PRINTS, CLEAN PAGES. $10.00 PLUS POSTAGE FRED fred.rawling@live.com

DYKE'S 7TH EDITION. CLEAN PAGES, NO FINGER PRINTS, SOME ABRASION ON THE SPLINE SIDE OF THE COVERS $16.00 PLUS POSTAGE FRED fred.rawling@live.com

Overland service list for Model 79 Clean copy, no finger prints, no dog eared pages. The pages are a little yellow at the top. The rest of the pages are still clean white. Photos on request. $35.00 plus $4.63 medium mail. Fred.rawling@.com

Good Morning Grant, The 1930 Master parts book lists the 1928 can by itself. I do not know what the difference is. I saw a note by Eric Barrett commenting on the 1927 cam. He said that it is better than the 1927 and earlier and he indicated that it fits earlier motors.

Here are the measurements for the length of the rear axle. If all else fails, you can pull a axle and measure it.

This is what I have. It is all marked 1918. One of the photos showed the water pump. If there is anything you can use, let me know. I will ship it. If anybody else needs anything, let me know. fred.rawling@live.com

I want to be sure that you still need one before I start digging stuff out. 1928 Master is a one year only camshaft. Fred fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-4670

I probably have what you need. Send a photo of the correct one. fred.rawling@live.com Yours for the postage. I have to get rid of all this stuff. Fred

On plumbing applications, they put a brass fitting between the copper and steel pipes to prevent electrolysis. Is the copper tube on the steel head going to be a problem or will the gasket do the job of keeping them apart?

The fan pulley is as they used on Buick engines for GMC trucks. It is a standard engine because the water outlet is on the front of the head. The transmission lock indicates that it is 1926 or 1927. The casting numbers on the head and block could be different from those on engines for cars.

BE SURE TO CHECK THE BLOCK TO SEE IF IT IS WARPED. A TRUE HEAD AND A WARPED BLOCK IS SURE TROUBLE.

What series?

In the 1920's Australia did not allow the importation of bumpers to protect their industry. That is why you see different bumpers on Australian Buicks.

The ratio of the 26 standard and 1927 standard is 4.9. 1928 came with 4.9 early and 5.0 late models. They all fit

I have a stack of clutches from 26 to 28 Buicks , both series. $15.00 each plus postage, $18.40 in a medium flat rate box. They have some surface rust on them and there is no guarantee that the discs are not stuck to the plates. If you get a bad one, I will refund the cost and split the postage with you. Photos on request. Fred 562 644-4670 fred.rawling@live.com

If your distributor does not rotate in the generator, any force your put on it will break the head from the shaft. There are 2 possible solutions. 1. To save the distributor, buy another generator. Take the end off your generator with the distributor in it, cut the distributor free and put it on the newly purchased generator. You end up with some spare parts. 2. Find a 1928 to 1930 single point distributor and use it.

Years ago Jack Corles Orange County Chapter member was making the fan conversions. He made them for 1925 to 1935 fan hubs. I have his drawings with measurements and bearing part numbers. Jack had the customers send their hub. He fitted the aluminum core to their hub. His drawings show a slight variation in some measurements in there same year and series. I did not try to figure that out. His conversions worked. I have over 9,000 miles on my 1928 with the conversion. I think that the bearing would have to be pressed into the core and the fan screw holes drilled. These operations , particularly indexing the fan screw holes are beyond the ability of many people. They are free ti you if you want them. Fred

My 1935 90 series with 73,000 miles came with them only on the rear.

I THINK THAT THIS ARM IS THE ADJUSTMENT FOR THE FAN BELT $5.00 PLUS POSTAGE I WILL E- MAIL YOU MORE PHOTOS IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-46770 for fastest response

$3.00 PLUS POSTAGE I WILL E- MAIL YOU MORE PHOTOS IF YOU ARE INTERESTED. fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-46770 for fastest response

FOR 1926 TO 1928 STANDARD $15.00 EACH. PLUS POSTAGE I WILL E MAIL YOU PHOTOS OF THE ONE YOU ARE INTERESTED IN fred.rawling@live.com or 562 644-46770 for fastest responce