ply33

I believe that for that year Plymouth the engine number is stamped on the driver’s (left) side of the frame around the kick up for the rear axle. Given the way Chrysler did things it wouldn’t surprise me if thst is where you’ll find it on your car. Chrysler Corporation did that for a lot of years.

My old GE miniature lamps guide lists: 2330 - A RP-11 bulb with a D.C. Pf. (A) base, 6.2/6.2 design voltage, 32/32 CP, 4.23/4.23 amps with C-2V filaments with a rated life of 200 hours. 2336 - A RP-11 bulb with a D.C. Pf. (A) base, 12.5/12.5 design voltage, 32/32 CP, 2.23/2.10 amps with C-2V filaments with a rated life of 300 hours. 2530 - A RP-11 bulb with a D.C. Pf. (A) base, 5.9/6.2 design voltage, 50/32 CP, 6.53/4.23 amps with C-2V filaments with a rated life of 200 hours. So, if your wiring and generator are up for it, a 2530 should plug in where the 2330 was and give you more light on the high beams. But you can also get a halogen bulb that will just plug in as well from Classic and Vintage Bulbs (and maybe other vendors as well). You definitely don't want to use a 2336 as it is designed for 12v rather than 6v.

The cover and overall shape of that wire grommet look the same as on my '33 Plymouth. Mine is located on the passenger side of the firewall while it looks like your earlier Dodge has it on the driver side. I was thinking about making a mould and pouring a new one from something like urethane. But it looks like your method is simpler for. Thanks for posting!

Not an expert, but the lady’s clothing looks early 1930s to me. If so, and if it is a 1927 Buick then I’d expect the car to be 4 to 7 years old at the time the photo was taken. There are others that are more into the fashions of the era than I, so maybe one of them could chime in.

Can’t fill the hole in by welding then re-drill it?

I don't know about Chrysler, but at some point they stopped marketing Plymouths in Canada. To fill the gap in at least the Dodge line up they put Dodge branding on what was basically a Plymouth with a 25" block engine built in Windsor (the US Plymouth used a 23" block). In the Plymouth club those cars are often referred to as "Plodges". It would not surprise me if they also Chrysler badged those destined for export where neither Plymouth or Dodge was marketed. Being a right hand drive it could well have been build for export to another commonwealth country.

No. The Ford used a bunch of corrugated aluminum and the skin on this is smooth. Plus the OP already said is was a Fokker. The question was: Is the motor his father is working on in the second photo a motor for the Fokker? The motor in the second photo is a 9 cylinder radial. Wikipedia claims that model Fokker was powered by 3 × Pratt & Whitney Wasp C engines of 313 kW (420 hp) each. I don't see a description of the Wasp C on Wikipedia. There is an other site that mention the Wasp C as a 9 cylinder radial. So the engine in the second photo is consistent with the hypothesis that the engine is one from that model Fokker.

Really? That would be the era of dial up bulletin boards, not even sure when AOL got started but it might have been after that. I was a pretty early adopter and I think my first dial up internet connection was in the early to mid 1990s. I could believe this forum was around since 1998 though. That was still pretty much the dial up era but general purpose ISPs were around then and home DSL was just getting started.

Other posts above give good advise about replacing the rubber parts in the fuel system with modern materials. Not a bad idea and I recommend it too. I also agree with 39BuickEight, your car has probably been running on ethanol gas anyway. I used to complain about California gas. But a few years back I drove my '33 Plymouth to Arizona for a meet. It was spring so the temperatures weren't too bad. Not really any higher than those in the southern parts of California. Starting with the first tank of Arizona gas I had problems with the fuel pump ceasing to pump if parked for only a short time when the temperature was above about 80°F (i.e. starting after filling up, quick run into a store, etc.). Problem disappeared on the first tank of California gas. Only time I've had that issue in California has been after long (>60 min) high speed (60 MPH) drives when the temperature was 100°F or more. Certainly not on short drives with 80°F temps. I did a little research on the topic and found that one of the things that makes the California blend of gas different and more expensive is that there are tighter specifications on volatility. Turns out that is a good thing for a carbureted engine on a warm day.

The '33 and, I think, '34 six cylinder blocks had a square opening into the block. The water distribution tube was introduced in 1935, the PC through PF engines don't have that. I am pretty sure one of the pencil sized holes in the backing plate on my '33 is used as a bypass to allow a little water to circulate in the block before the thermostat opens.

That is very impressive stabilization. Impressive car too!

Missed a shift or two there. No doubt due to juggling with the phone. The drivetrain on that car sounds really nice, no doubt you've gotten the mechanicals well sorted! The biggest improvement on video will be to the driver not involved with the camera. I picked up a cellphone stabilizer last year in preparation for an adventure travel vacation that I was supposed to be on now. Canceled due to the COVID-19 situation. But we used it last year with my wife taking some videos from the passenger seat of an antique Fiat 500 that bounced around a lot. The stabilizer did a pretty good job of keeping the camera steady. Though it looks like your cellphone has pretty good stabilization built in so maybe you don't need that. As I've had too many close calls, I installed a dash cam on my daily driver. Got to the point I don't want to drive a car without a dash cam, so I installed a mount for one in my '33 powered off a USB power supply that is, in turn, powered off of a 6v+ to 12v- inverter. Power from that also charges my cellphone. Anyway, that is another way to get videos with a view over a long hood with big headlights. Not as long a hood nor as big headlights as your Marmon, but I like it anyway.

Looks like the interior and hub cap skins are coming along very nicely!

I don't know very much about Chevy's but. . . At one time in the 20s or 30s the SAE published a list of body types with their official naming. In that scheme what Ford called a Tudor and Plymouth called a "two door sedan" the SAE called a "coach". I think GM went along with the SAE's names and called it a coach also. So yes, it is "like a 2 dr sedan" because if it is a "coach" it is the same thing.

Thanks for posting that! My '33 is different but it is interesting to see how they did it when they started using the rubber seal.

All the '33 water pumps I've seen have the square hole, not the D shaped hole. And, to the best of my knowledge, the external bypass was only on the PE. I think the PF and PG pumps looked externally the same as the '33 but they might have had the D shaped outlet. But I had thought the D shaped outlet from the pump started in 1935 when they widened the block slightly and added the water distribution tube.

That looks more like a body/trim tag as found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The serial number for a pre-WW2 Chrysler built car should be on the front passenger door hinge post and it should be a long numeric value (no letters, dashes, etc.) See my Plymouth VIN number page for details on the various schemes used. I don't have the Chrysler numbers displayed on that page but the look up tool on the top left has all the Chrysler (and DeSoto, post '28 Dodge and Plymouth) serial numbers in its look up tables on my server so you can type in your serial number and see where it was in the production run, etc.

I don’t have one but a quick search turns up this: https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/model-a-ford-grease-gun-fitting-adapter-adapts-modern-grease-gun-to-work-with-original-style-grease-fittings.html There are probably other similar one you can find from other suppliers.

That is a Zerk fitting (as opposed to the Alemite Hydraulic fitting that everyone nowadays calls a Zerk fitting). They were used on a lot of cars including Plymouth. I believe that Plymouth dropped that style and went to the modern Alemite Hydraulic fittings in 1934 which would imply that all Chrysler makes made the switch at that time. If you look around at the usual restoration supply houses, especially ones catering to Model A Fords, you should be able to find a tip for your grease gun hose that is designed for it.

From the beginning of auto manufacturing on into the mid-1930s there were significant power, speed, reliability, durability, economy and comfort improvements pretty much every year. It would make sense that a five or ten year old car was considered obsolete even if not worn out. Possibly even a two or three year old car. That is pretty much as I recall too. I think some of it was a hold over from the early era of automobiles when improvements happened pretty rapidly. And I think some of it was due to the substantial styling changes made each year. Nowadays I have trouble looking at a well maintained car and figuring out if it is new, late model or five or even ten years old. So if you maintain your car cosmetically as well as mechanically, you are not embarrassed about driving an "old car" when driving a five or even ten year old car. That wasn't the case between any five or ten year period from the end of WW2 through at least 1970 and probably even 1980 or 1990. Looks like the average age of a car on the road has definitely been going up.

Best I heard is: Classic --> The car you wanted to own when you were in high school but could not afford Antique --> Any car built before you were born. New Car --> Any car built after your oldest child was born. At present I have a "old car". In another 13 years it will turn 100 and I guess I can then start calling it an antique.

Hasn't bothered me a bit since the fall of 2000 when we got our first Prius. Thinking back on it, it did take a couple of months to get used to it. But that was 19 1/2 years ago and that 2001 model is approaching "old enough to be entered in an antique car show" age for who ever owns it now (we sold it at 17 years of age because we decided we no longer needed two "modern" cars in the household). Just got my 2017 back from the body shop (insurance covered hit & run repair). I'd been driving my '33 as a "daily driver" the last couple of weeks while the new one was being repaired. Jumping between the two cars is quite interesting: My mind almost perfectly clicks from one mode to the other. Almost. Things that just come need no adjustment include: Electric CVT vs manual transmission with no synchro (need to double clutch). No issue. Power steering vs "steering by Armstrong". No issue. Push button start vs setting choke & hand throttle, pressing the accelerator to allow the choke to set, pressing the starter pedal. No issue. Engine is off when not needed (downhills, when stopped, etc.) vs always on. etc. Just the feel of being in the old car with the large steering wheel, mohair upholstery, being able to see the hood, the slight smell from the crankcase draft tube, etc. throws the switch in my brain. However in the old car I occasionally catch myself reaching for the non-existent turn signal lever. For the first couple of days the 2017 was in the shop we took a long trip and rented a late model GM vehicle. I found it quaint and old fashioned that it had an old style automatic transmission that you could feel shift. How incredibly retro, it reminded me of the 1990s!

Only quibble I have with your reply is that "been out of service for years" probably should have read "been out of service for decades".

FWIW, the way I use my Ammco 1750 is to lock the measurement at the drum size. Then I use feeler gauges to verify the correct clearance between the tool and the shoe at the toe and heal, finally I swing the tool along the shoe to verify it is not touching anywhere. There is some back and forth between the major and minor adjustors because at the same time you are getting the clearances correct you are also centering the shoe to be concentric with the axle. I've had better luck getting things lined up using feeler gauges to check the clearance between the shoe and the tool set to drum diameter rather than changing the tool's settings for the desired clearance and then having the tool just touch the shoe.

One thing I don't see in the above replies: The anchor for the shoe is on an eccentric bolt (the “major adjustment”). If those had been adjusted out as the old shoes wore then they may not be correct for your new shoes. But I am confused as you said you used an Ammco 1750 to adjust the shoes. The 1750 also has the ability to measure your drums and if used properly should have set the clearance between drum and shoes correctly. Or, if the shoes are not arc'd for the drums, it would show you that it was not possible to get the heal and toe clearances specified. I am wondering how you used the tool. . .