NTX5467

Is the darkness on the piston crowns I see from "too rich" mixture? Happy New Year to All! NTX5467

(Projected time schedule for such?)

In one respect, the later best-use of those nice-looking plastic-toothed sprockets would be to put them on a wall, in a nice frame, under glass, with an engraved plate on the frame, "This one is special. It did well! It got changed before it fractured during use. (Miles and date)". Maybe include the other parts of the set, to keep them all together. Reward their life with an easy future under glass. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

A transmission pan gasket that does NOT leak or seep can be fantastic to have. To get that result, I started getting some black high-heat siealer and smearing a skin-coat on all of the gasket surfaces, sides and inside the screw holes. Using finger action smoothly, for a smooth surface with some "finger print lines" in it. Let it cure 24 hours, then install carefully. As mentioned, do check the pan rail for dimples near the pain rail bolt holes! Adjust with a hammer and vice as necessary. Initially, just snug-up the bolts. Then do the final torqueing in diagonal sequence until all are tight, to spec. ATF? You can use the newer syn GM Dexron VI atf, or seek out the prior Dexron III equivalents, one of which is USA ACDelco "Type III" ATF. Or a major brand of "All Makes" fluid which specifically mentions Dexron III/Mercon IV on the back of the container. Some people used to use Ford Type F fluid for a bit more "grab" on clutch engagement, but I'm not sure if that really mattered as to transmission life, then or now. To me, the default mode would be the Dexron III-type fluids. Should, perhaps, getting the correct fluid filter is an issue, you can back-flush them and temporarily re-used them until the correct OEM-style filter is obtained. Even for a few years or limited use, if desired! Just get a new pan gasket, coat it as I mentioned, and proceed to service the transmission. This way, you can effectively flush the transmission in the process, ending up with mostly new fluid everywhere (including the torque converter). Enjoy! NTX5467

I had the rocking chair next to the smaller bookcase, even with a pile of notable magazines nearby. Books usually from HP Books or the later (and many times better) S-A Designs books. Plus a few vintage Petersen Books for balance. I spent many comfortable evenings in that chair reading and understanding the books, learning for "future reference", back in the late 1960s to the middle 1970s or so. In the 1980s, few new books came out, other than David Vizard's excellent books on cyl heads and such. I knew how to apply chemistry and physics to car stuff, so those parts came easy. Then the realization that a computer was simply a method of decision making within certain parameters (i.e., "calibrations"). Then came "algorithms" or "complicated formulas" for more intense calibrations levels . . . which is kind of where I "let them carry things forward".. When the spring sun and temperatures appeared, as they used to, it was time to tryout some of my upgrades and suspicions of better ways to do things on cars. Always fun! Most successful! Happy New Year! NTX5467

There are OTHER GPS tracking devices which can be used to track things. Of course, you could get her a coupon for "waxing", so that she could "get waxed" similar to "your old POS" car. LOL!! Or maybe some smooth massage oil for her, too, just as you would Lexol leather interiors? Or perhaps y'all could just guzzle some Tunisian-sourced extra virgin olive oil for better health? Happy New Year! NTX5467

I know WE are of the generation where "engine swaps and upgrades" were just part of the deal, in prior times, but those possibilities have become harder to do as they used to be done in older rwd vehicles. Add-in a mix of "not wanting to throw away anything that is still good" and the recipe is complete for our DNA. Used to, you hooked up some wires and a fuel line and then the exhaust and you were done. NOT any more! FWD changed that, plus different model years' upgrades in tech and such. In some cases, upgrades can still be done if you have a wiring diagram and know each model year's computer system and ECM. YIKES!!! Sell it to Copart and go on down the road. Happy New Year, NTX5467

Is that 2003 LeSabre that inexpensive due to the engine issue (might the "knock" be the front pulley damper where the balance weight has delaminated from its butyl rubber base???) or is the interior "worn"? IF all it really needs is the new damper, that would be a "high value" transaction! NTX5467

I suspect the original tubes were freeze-fitted/(or perhaps a combination of heated casting and cold tube?) in production. Throttle plate screws are always "staked" on their exposed threads to keep them tight. Back in the later 1950s-carburetors, it seemed to be "stylish" to have the bowl vents sticking into the airflow as they did. Rochesters seemed to be the most prevalent in this respect. Kind of like they needed them on display in order to be a "good" carburetor? By the later 1960s, those tubes had become "dull" and straight, by observation. Kind of hiding in plain sight! Which might well mean that them being there is more important than how they looked? By this point in time, I suspect that most of the rebuilt carbs available are more "will fit" than "exact model fit", so might as well head up to a 1970-era 2bbl and adapt the linkage to fit your application, as needed. Don't need a CA-spec carb, just a normal Federal-spec model. That way, any evolutionary improvements in fuel metering which happened after the car was built would be in the newer-spec carb. Would be important to compare the throttle plate size to the current model plus the holes in the intake manifold. Knowing the size of the OEM throttle plates for that model year, then going up to about 1972 model year might find a 2bbl with those same sizes. If the holes in the intake manifold are 1.75" or so, they you can go up to 1.69" throttle plates, which was common to many Chevy 350 2bbls back then, fwiw. Although I tend to doubt it, the SAE Specs for 1970 claims the 1970 Buick 350 2bbl also has 1.69" throttle plates. Happy New Year! NTX5467

An enjoying commentary. Looks like y'all are pretty well matched, which can be a reason y'all are still together. Happy Holidays to All! NTX5467

Noises can be flaky to discern where they are coming from. I would suspect that if a lifter is sticking, the engine would have less power under load, as the valve is not moving open as much. Which could mean that rather than worry about noises (especially valve train "ticks"!), putting the transmission in gear, loading the engine against a firmly-applied foot brake, then watching the rpm on a tach with each consistent application of accel pedal, to determine which cyl or cyls are not contributing their fair amount, by lesser rpm drop when the plug wire is unhooked from the particular cylinder. A shade tree method of doing a "cylinder balance test". At the "valve end" of things, rather than the lifter, you are checking the valve guide to valve stem clearance, which can also cause a ticking. If the valve lifter has restricted movement, then I would suspect the pushrod would not be moving quite so much? Generally, when the valve guides start to wear, valve stem seal-related oil consumption can increase as can the probability of a "burnt valve" from such wear. If you are seeking to clean things up, do one oil change with Mobil1 synthetic motor oil. Remember "esters" from high school chemistry? They also dissolve sludge in motors. Mobil1 apparently has those chemicals in their motor oil, according to GM. Might be worth a try. Agreed, NONE of the engine cleaner-uppers will work immediately, but over several thousand miles. I used to use the old Stewart-Warner CD-2 cleaner additive in the 1970s, on a car or so that I bought. With a fresh oil change, I'd add one pint can. When the oil got low the first time, another 1 pint can. Then when the oil got low again, I'd change the oil and the rocker shafts were very clean (when viewed through the oil filler hole). A pint of Berryman's B-12 would probably have worked, too, being that it's basically a varnish remover. In the mean time, drive the car and enjoy it. Things like "ticks" might be a part of the character of an older vehicle, but it might possibly take some refreshed machine work to really get rid of it. Happy Holidays! NTX5467

The '62 Special Dual-Path DynaFlow is a different breed of Wildcat from what came in the larger cars. IIRC Which will probably be more difficult to find, possibly. Only a "blue" band? Or is that for "country blues" music?

The younger lady identified the Century wagon as where the current Buick SUV lineage started, most probably, considering her age. NOT really a bad thing, all things considered! I don't mean my next comment to be "generational", but when most of us were growing up, everybody KNEW somebody who owned a Buick., if our immediate family did not own one. Aunts and Uncles who desired to be upscale in orientation, as proof they were "going somewhere" in their lives. Grandparents, too. Neighbors or friends' families. Plus, you could tell a Buick was a Buick a block away (at least). Now that we've attained "typical Buick owner age", we still like the Buicks of our Youth, wondering what younger people see in current Buicks. It is surprising the affect our Buicks have on younger people. Who might admire a '68 SweepSpear Buick just as we did the '50s Roadmasters when we were young, with their elegance and style. Still, it generally took a certain amount of "older adult" income to afford those things, so we settled more on Buick Specials and Centurys (new or used). In those times, it was not the MODEL of Buick you owned, just that you owned a BUICK as that said "I'm going to be successful in my life, make money, have a nice home, a good family, and anything else that goes with those things" as time progresses into the future. Just as it was interesting to dream of futuristic cars (way back in 1956) which were atomic powered and self-driving, then came "The Jetsons", it might be hard for a current young person to envision a society when all cars were stylish, carried 6 normal adults in comfort for hours on end, and "wheeling them around". When engines of 250 horsepower were considered "good running", even with DynaFlows. A smooooother way of doing things. Perhaps as current young people look back at the excitement that cars had in earlier times, compared to what they have seemed to become, they might wish for "simpler times" in their future lives? Lives with style and elegance as key motivators? Learning the simplicity of carburetors and ignition points, rather than "computer tunes" or "body kits". Enjoying the fruits of their labors in successfully overhauling such, as the engine runs flawlessly, with the sense of accomplishment of "I did that!". I've realized that through all of the generational designations, the general orientations of "people" really have not changed that much in the past 70 years. A 17 year old might still be as amazed at what they perceive they know, as they are not aware of what they do not know, for example. Embracing new things as others can struggle to understand it, realizing that they will eventually "get there". Their orientations will change as they age and become "wage-earners", by observation. Many times understanding their parents better in the process. Not to forget appreciating their parents (and what they went through) more, too. Personally, I've been surprised at the number of young people who have held the door open for me, as an act of kindness, over the past 20 years or so. (Didn't realize I was looking so "old" back then! Perhaps it's the receding hairline and loss of hair color?) So, there is still HOPE! Happy Holidays and Happy New Year! NTX5467

Head down to Home Depot or similar and get two of their plastic, folding top bins to put all of your car stuff into. That way, it's easier to haul around and keep contained. NOT to forget enough motor oil! I concur with changing things before the trip rather than during. IF you've kept decent records, you know how long (time and miles) the major items have been installed. How old the spark plugs and ign points are, etc. THEN put some miles on the car, short trips then highway trips of 100+ miles or so. Look at the spark plugs to see if they are burning correctly. Tap-out the air filter or put fresh oil in the oil bath, so you at least "touch" it. Do an oil change and watch how soon the color changes toward "black". When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed? Check the level and go from there. Look at the TIRE AGE on the sidewall. IF they might be vibrating a bit, might be time to get some more, if the time is getting close to 6yrs? To me, charging and starting system items should not fail "suddenly", but usually give some warning before they finally do. These things can be changed prior to the trip. Generator's and starters' brushes might need to be refreshed for general principles, or at least inspected for less than 1/2 wear. Tune-up parts don't take up much room, but could be also changed prior to the trip, keeping the old ones as spares, in the "equipment box". Voltage regulator, too. Changing the water pump can be a good winter project. Keeping the old one for a spare, in the box (once cleaned). Plus any applicable gaskets! LUBE the front suspension and steering, looking for looseness or wear in the process. Maybe take the drums off to look at the brakes for leaks and wear, too. The more you get done BEFORE the trip the better, so the less you should be worrying about things "not holding up", in theory. Use quality replacement parts rather than otherwise. At this point in time, you can delegate each winter weekend to accomplish ONE part of the car to look over and refresh as needed, mechanically. Plus plenty of time for spring cruises and longer shake-down runs. Just some thoughts and observations. Happy Holidays, Y'all! NTX5467

IF it will bolt in, I would see no issues provided you get the computer, wiring harnesses, and such for the newer engine. Not sure about getting the transmission adapted, but I suspect they are all the same . . . "suspect". NTX5467

If it has "Max Trac", there will be a switch on the lower edge of the upper instrument panel ledge. It has nothing to do with the rear axle, just sequentially kills the spark to cylinders to limit power to allegedly help with wheel spin reduction. Back then, Buick designed and built their own unique rear axles. There might be other non-Buick applications, but I suspect not. If you don't already have one, you need a Buick-specific factory service manual. It should detail the rear axle and how to identify it. I have downloaded files of the Buick parts books, pre-1973, which also have mentioned of rear axle ID and ratios. If the differential internal gears have worn, might be cost effective to swap in a limited-slip differential rather than rebuilding what you have. Provided somebody sells the needed unit. When you take the differential carrier out, you can also plan on putting new side bearings to replace the existing side bearings. Pinion bearings, too. Reusing the existing ring gear and pinion gears. You'll also need to inspect the axle shaft bearings and seals, too. I believe the bearings probably need to be repacked with grease, too? If you get a replacement axle assy from a salvage yard, you could very well end up just where you presently are, as to wear issues! Finding a competent rear axle shop to do the work can be a task, but a good investment in finding them can be good, too. Some shops who do not want the job can price their estimate high enough to potentially send you elsewhere. Having a car tie-up a stall for a longer-than-normal period of time, waiting on parts, is not what they usually want to see or desire. So check on parts availability of the allegedly-needed gears, their prices, first. If the car's still drivable, but getting noisier, it still can be driven a bit. Might get a second opinion estimate from another shop or so, for general principles. Considering that Chevy and GMC are still building rear wheel drive pickup trucks, they could well have a tech or more that knows how to do good, OEM-level rear axle work. Then, with a willing co-conspirator in the parts department, you might shop that angle, too. And most dealerships have a "shop warranty" period stated on the bottom of their repair orders, too. Might be higher than a private garage in labor rates, but it could be a better alternative. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I always respected the Olds 350 V-8s (1972 and thereabouts) as great engines. Better in many respects than the Chevy 350 everybody drooled over. But the 307 version of that engine family needed lots of help to get to the 160s in horsepower, it seems. I was appalled at how many vacuum lines and such there were on the engine! Only Fords of the time could compete in that respect. Then I drove a middle 1980s Buick Estate Wagon with the Olds 307. With only me in the car, I accelerated up an Interstate grade, starting at 65mph at WOT. Heard the secondaries kick in, but no increase in speed. I thought "This car is gutless now, but what about with 6 passengers, their gear, and a 1000 lb travel trailer on the back, ALL within the maximum GM recommendations! Yikes! The Chevy 305 4bbl would probably have performed better, by comparison. I never did hear of anybody re-tuing the motor as to different emissions calibrations. That customer demographic would probably not have considered that, but it HAD to have helped that poor engine. Better to put it out of its misery (even in the Cutlass 4-4-2 and its "garbage truck" shifter and put a good-running Olds 350 or 403 in its place. I have a 2005 Impala with the Chevy 3.4L V-6 and a 2005 LeSabre Limited with the normal 3800 II V-6. The engines are 20 horsepower apart, with the Chevy at 180 and the Buick at 200. Same 2.84 drive ratio. The LeSabre might be 100 lbs heavier, but its "Buick torque" is immediately-available off-idle and makes the car move effortlessly getting up to speed from idle. No issue with crusing at 80mph (which is 2100rpm in OD), either. Harkens back to when engines were larger and cars were heavier. The 2005 Impala, by comparison, its throttle response is more linear in feel. It takes "throttle" to move it down the road in OD. Not a slouch at WOT, just that the Buick V-6 feels like a rocket in comparison. I'm suspecting the 3800 I motor might still run nicer than the Chevy 3.4, though. So, while I would have liked for a Riv to have the 307 (before I drove a 307 Olds V-8 car), the little Buick 3800 can actually have better driving dynamics in the real world just because of how it comes off-idle eagerly. The Olds 403 was a facatory option in later 1970s Toronados. Yet it seems that few people considered that one of the "should be" best high-performance fwd cars of that era. Happy Holidays! NTX5467

I know and understand that it is always interesting to see where a vehicle has been in its prior times before we purchased it. What was possible in the 1980s has diminished in achievability in the 2020s. After many "old records" have been purged or archived in deep, dark locations and not digitized. With a "title search" string of prior owners, it could have been possible to trace the residences of a vehicle. Then, one could send a registered letter to that prior owner and address to possibly gain some information about the vehicle's life with them. Sometimes, these things could take months, hinging upon IF the prior owners still lived there AND if they would reply. In modern times, with such a list, one could log into one of the "people search" websites and do the searches online, in a matter of minutes, hopefully. ALSO, you can pay a bit of money to do a CARFAX (or similar) search by VIN. This can lead to prior owners' locations, when the vehicle was licensed and where, plus repairs performed in shops which report their activities to CARFAX (or similar). In some cases, a car with a clean report of no accidents or such could have been repaired by a facility which did not report to CARFAX, which can complicate some things. Especially if the repair were paid for by the owner and not an insurance company. Such reports can also indicate issues the prior owners had with the vehicle which were not completely fixed, evident from the same or similar complaint lines on the service repair order. DO do your due diligence in going over the car on a lift. With some un-interested third party people who know what they are looking at there. Be prepared for their assessments, too. If something needs to get fixed, do it. If not, enjoy the car for a few years and then pass it on to somebody else to enjoy. With pictures of the memorable times you enjoyed the car with others. Happy Holidays, NTX5467

Nice looking car. I always liked that platform series of Buicks. You might contact GM Historical to see if they can provide a "kit" for the car, via VIN of the car. At the minimum, the kit would include a window sticker and possibly some other information on the car. You might head over to www.eatondetroitspring.com and . . . input the car's info into the menu, click, and then see a page of springs and such for the car. On the upper horizontal menu on that page, at the rh end, is "Links" with the vehicle logo under it. Click on the logo, if its there, to get a sales brochure file for download. NTX5467

Yes, worn keys can be issues. Not only can the cut heights get worn down over time, but the top of the key above them can also wear thin in the middle. I did hand-cuts on worn keys to get correct cut depths on the new keys. Using the duplicator would have meant a new key blank with worn cuts. When we got the computerized key cutter, cutting by code did not produce the cut depths I was used to seeing with the hand cutter. THEN is learned that the computer cutting item had to be correctly programmed, with two-axis coordinates. Nobody ever brought one back, but I never fully trusted them. When we got the cutter for the new side-cut keys, I discovered that those "cuts" are still 5-level cuts, just as the normal keys are. Read the same way. NTX5467

In one respect, I have my doubts that the long-time, embedded rebuilders use OEM-level replacement parts. But parts which are good enough to last a good while. A "good while" which gets extended as the vehicles they are used on see less and less "daily": uses as they age. Valid comments about the wiring connectors in the bulkhead connector. Lube on the bushings, too. Perhaps if a syn lube was used it would have better 500 degree tolerances? ONE item which might be variable on starter heat is the amount of convection cooling available under the hood of the particular vehicle. The engine might be common, but the amount of cooling might not be as the body styles and such have changed over the years. What might have been adequate in the middle 1950s could well be different in the later 1950s, for examples, as hood lines were lowered and such. And, by observation, NailHeads exist in warmer climates, too. Enjoy! NTX5467

You can also put it in the BCA "For Sale" forum, too. One/current log-in works for all of the AACA-hosted forums. NTX5467

Thanks for the additional information. Did you put the heat sink "lube" under the new HEI module? Is the coil grounded? Happy Holidays! NTX5467

DEI or similar sells heat insulator shields for starters, plus some you can wrap around exhaust pipes for further insulation. I might question the starting technique a bit. I understand letting the added fuel pump run to re-fill the carburetor after sitting over night after the engine running, but with an AFB-style carburetor, why the need to pump the accel pedal more than to just start the engine? With a normal car, that could be almost "flooding" it, which is not good. THEN to pump it again when hot, doesn't sound necessary. With the electric choke set to just close at 70 degrees F, it should "set" when the throttle is first moved on a cold engine, then the accel pump puts sufficient fuel into the bottom of the plenum to assist with initial fire-off. I know that many people like to initially pump the accel pedal on old cars to help them start, but you have a 1960s-design carb on an older car, so such should not be needed, to me. BTAIM The other thing is that the HEI should have enough juice to easily fire the spark plugs at any temperature, in starting. What spark plugs are in the motor and at what gap? My theory is that after about two engine revolutions, the sparks should be happening and the motor running. Even on a hot re-start . . . unless the carb has percolated and near-flooded the motor. I started running NGK V-Power plugs for their gap design. I first discovered them in a pamphlet I picked up at a Toyota parts counter, back in the middle 1980s. Which pre-dates the appearance of ACDelco RapidFire plugs (with a modified-normal gap design). They did start easier seemed to make more difference in combustion chambers with open chambers than in smaller "wedge" chambers and less squish distance. Still, the spark is more exposed to the mixture than normal designs. NGK fine-wire Iridiums are even better in their POW factor, but cost more. Heat shield the starter and nearby exhaust pipes. Focus on getting the ignition system to work better, with some timing tweaks. With the end result being quicker starting with fewer needed engine revolutions. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

As far as replacement, you can check the OD with a digital caliper (abt $2.00 at Harbor Frt) and then get a stick of fuel line at the auto supply in that same OD. Cut and angle one end to 45 degrees. Press in with some adhesive. Done. As the bowl is already vented via the bowl vent valve, which is closed ar a little bit above base idle speed, the necessity of that tube being there might be questionable as to really needing it. Once the engine is running and air is going into the venturi, the float bowl should have a bit of positive pressure in it? Might similar pressure be in it if the air just enters the venturi area, too? Your call . . . as to return the carburetor for another one, make a new tube, or use as-is. I thought you had installed a Holley 2bbl that was working well? NTX5467