NTX5467

"Crank's got to be redone . . ." , due to normal wear or something else? Just curious, NTX5467

Nice car. I always had a soft spot for the '60 Buicks. My favorite uncle had a '60 LeSabre 4-dr sedan. I ran across a Charles Phoenix "Joy Ride" video on a '60 LeSabre 2dr hardtop a while back. Beautiful car, too. The styling on those cars just looks "right". Welcome, NTX5467

There are many available on eBay, many are not OEM, though. Key things are if their buttons are the same as yours, relating to number and functions. I know you are in Oz and that complicates any shipping issues as to time and cost. The aftermarket keyless transmitters, not transponders, do not have the ID items I mentioned on them. So, you are in the situation of being at the mercy of the local suppliers. THEY should know what the items they sell will fit and work on. Might be worth the drive to visit them with the car and see if they have a remote that looks like yours and will program to the vehicle. If it won't program and be recognized by the vehicle, then no sale. Otherwise, you can email Buick for information as to part number. Although the part is probably discontinued at this time. Or see if any Holden operatives might transfer your request to their mainland associates for a reply. Regards, NTX5467

ALL of the numbers related to the item are cast on the OUTSIDE of the back case, in the recess. GM Part number, FCC ID number, etc. PLUS the transmitter ID as "Driver 1" or "Driver 2". The last item is more for reference of the users rather than the identification by the car. Either one can be either designation when they are programmed to the vehicle. For programming to take place, BOTH transmitters have to be present and programmed at the same time. The programming function first clears the car's memory bank of any known transmitters, then the system is programmed (usually via the Driver Info Ctr or through the radio functions) as "Driver 1" and "Driver 2". "Driver 1" could be the vehicle's main user as "Driver 2" could be a spouse, off-spring, or other designated person. In some vehicles, certain features can be programmed to coincide with particular preferences of each Driver. Programming the keyless entry transmitters is different from programming the vehicle to recognize the correct transponder ignition keys, so the vehicle will start and run. A separate function all together. Un-recognized keys will allow the starter to turn the motor, but when the key is released from the "Start" mode, the engine ceases to turn over. Just some recollections, NTX5467

I'm not sure why the R-134a system needs the parallel flow condenser, but all OEM condensers for R-134a are that way. R-134a is more sensitive to over-charge, more so than R-12. The earlier recommendations were to start at an 80% of the R-12 charge. Then gradually add R134a until cooling peaks, then stop. Which usually ended up at 90% of the R-12 charge. When I came back from the BCA National Meet in Flint, 2003, there were conversations about swapping the existing POA valves for what the aftermarket was selling as "POA Eliminators", which basically made the system into a cycling system, as the later CCOT systems were. My research on R134a conversions had already led me to the www.ackits.com website. Run by some a/c people in Arizona. Where I first discovered the variable orifice valve for the CCOT systems. In it was a thread on R134a conversions. At that time, there were three oils for R134a, depending upon where the vehicle was produced. I knew that in a couple of years, there would probably be an oil which would be compatible with ALL gasses, which did happen. In the R134a conversion thread were comments about decreased cooling. We had already seen that with the first year of R134a in Chevy pickups, at that time (later 2003). Then, something interesting was revealed! That every modulation system for R12 gasses was "adjustable". GM literature claimed they were not, with defective units changed under the original vehicle warranty were to be returned to GM. Yet when Ford started to use the GM A-6 compressor on Lincolns, they also went to a POA system, too. Unlike the GM literature, the Ford literature had a procedure to do an adjustment for poor cooling. Which meant that the POAs were adjustable. Obviously, these modulation devices had all been adjustable, all along, back to the first Hot Gas Bypass Valves and such in the GM systems. How else might they do their calibrations on the assy line where the valves were built? GM's warranty orientation was that they would not pay for the same repair code twice, so they did not want techs messing with the POA adjustments, lest multiple complaints happen, over time. So they wanted the POAs replaced and returned to them, so they could then deal with their Harrison Division operatives for quality control issues. On the POAs, one some years, the adjustment item is on the input side, other years, it is on the output side. Turing the adjustment item 3/4 turn CCW should drop the evap core pressure to 26" Hg from 27.5" Hg, which then puts the high side-low side pressures back into a similar relationship as with R-12. Several people in that thread, with different GM systems, all said that when the POA was readjusted, their a/c vent temps dropped into the low 40 degrees F range, just as it had been with R-12. With NO other alterations to the system. Chrysler's EPR valve is the same way, just easier to get to. So, adjust the POA valve for R134a, clean the system of the old R-12 oil, recharge to 90% of the R-12 charge, and that should be "it" . . . according to that old thrad at www.ackits.com (or its later version). In the gas handling situations at the a/c shops, all shops initially had one recycling machine for R-12 and one for R134a. Each one dedicated to their particular gas. No contamination was allowed. In those times, I had a friend who worked for Four Seasons and wrote their service manuals. In doing a conversion, he said that the system would be hooked to a R-12 recycling machine. The machine would be set to circulate full liquid through the system to collect all of the gas from the system, with any oil (which would be separated-out by the machine). Once that had been done, the R-12 machine would be unhooked and the R134a machine hooked up. After pulling the initial vacuum on the system, then the new R134a AND compatible oil would be added. Now, there are some side issues. The Sanden is an 8 cubic inch displacement compressor whereas the A6 is at or a bit more than 10 cubic inch displacement. GM used the A6 on everything from the factory add-on kits for 1969 Opels to Greyhound busses, with the pressure modulation systems doing their magic as to how much load the compressor saw and the related load on the engine. Which means the Sanden has lower capacity, but will need to turn faster for the same level of cooling, in theory. As GM used such a small pulley on their normal car A-6s, it would be hard to get a smaller pulley on the Sanden to turn it faster. Which may be where the parallel flow condensers come into play? Another issue is that any car from the 1960s is very poosly-insulated against heat and cold. No continuous insulation above the headliner, for example, other than some insulation to decrease drumming of the roof panel. No continuous insulation under the carpets, other than for heat intrusion from the floors and engine compartment. No insulation in the doors. Generally, anything that is there is for sound control rather than making the hvac system work better, by observation. Modern vehicles are designed to have much better continuous sound and heat/cold insulation, by observation. Generally smaller volumes, too. Result is that the 8CID Sanden cools them well. With a cycling compressor system and a parallel flow condenser that is at big as the vehicle's radiator (as to height and width), rather than like they were on the earlier R-12 systems. In some research the other night, I discovered that the main a/c vendors now sell drop-in replacement parallel flow condensers for many older vehicles. Attaching to existing a/c lines. Add a new receiver-drier and that end of things is taken care of. Most were about $300.00 USD and painted black. I'm not sure what it would take to expose the front clutch on the Denso A6? Don't know what it would look like. But that Denso item looks very much like a Harrison A6 and has all of the same attachments and hook-ups for a drop-in installation. Usually in the $350.00 USD range these days. @TexRiv_63 found a place to buy everything he needed for the Sanden installation, hoses, crimping kit, etc. for a good price. Just what how far my research has gotten to this point, NTX5467

Rather than the Sanden, there is a Denso compressor that, other than the front clutch cover, looks identical to an A6 and is a direct bolt-in replacement. Made of aluminum so it's lighter, too. Other than what many sell, there are about 16 different "backs" for the Sanden compressors. ONE mates directly to the GM hose set-up, too!!! Most people do not know it exists, it seems. There is also a spacer to make up for the length difference so the OEM hoses hook up to it and to not physically change locations due to the Sanden's shorter length. R-134a seems to work best with a parallel flow condenser. Some vendors sell bolt-in units for older cars. POA valves are adjustable, so turning the adjustment screw 3/4 turn CCW and it is set for R-134a gas. Same with other GM valving. Purge the system of ALL existing R-12 oil. Use the recommended R-134a oil, ensuring the compressor has enough in it to start with, although it should be pre-filled with it. Check ALL of the vendors for the best price, too. No real need to re-invent the wheel, just put some new wheel covers on it. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

If it's something you add to the motor oil, it's probably a viscosity improver more than anything else. Putting 10W-40 in place of 10W-30 might work just as well? Whatever is in that product which MIGHT work will also be in the whole motor. It is probably meant more for the rear main seals which are post-rope, which means some type of rubber or silicone, which the product can cause to swell about 2% to decrease any gaps between the seal and the crankshaft. NTX5467

Many of the older tire shops used to have bins of chromed steel lug nuts in stock. Just pick the ones which look best. Round tops, otherwise, etc. Might even find some on RockAuto? Or just order some of the chromed-steel nuts in the correct size, with the rounded tops on them. FEW people (other than some) will notice the difference. Main thing is to make sure they are torqued to the correct tightness and in the correct sequence, in steps. IF and when you might get serious about judging, THEN spring for the "big buck" items that are identical to the OEM items. Clean the lug bolt threads with a wire brush, apply a very thin layer of motor oil to the threads (as mentioned in the GM service manual), then do the torque routine. NTX5467

Rather than worry about how many coats and such, just tell the painter to paint it like a new vehicle. Seems like the orig OEM procedure was two color coats followed by 2 clear coats. If done correctly, only machine buffing is needed. The color coats are just for getting a consistent color on the vehicle. Then the clear coats make up for the rest of the OEM build thickness and include a UV filter to keep the paint from fading and provide the hard shine that results. Some restoration shops like to shoot more coats of product, then the last one is sanded down for that "straight, smooth shine". Leaving behind those 3' deep shines, for a price. I'd HATE to know how much time it takes to work with 30K grit! My patience nor pants pockets are not that deep! Happy Holidays, NTX5467

My research indicates that the G80 was available only with the V92 Trailer package, but the V92 was available by itself w/o G80.

The "Towing Package" is code for "performance suspension package", just that Buick didn't want anything termed as "high-performance" related to the last-gen Roadmaster. On the sedans, that suspension had some visible items in it. Rear sway bar and P235/70R-15 radials are those. Not sure about any additional oil coolers, as in "engine oil" cooler which is under the oil filter base. Might have been an external automatic transmission cooler, too? SPID might be on the lh frt door shell on wagons? Sedans would probably have been on the spare tire cover, under the trunk mat/carpet. V92 is the option code. Might also be a "Grand Touring Suspension" plate on the instrument panel, replacing the normal "DynaRide Suspension" nameplate? G80 PosiTraction was a separate option, but required the Tow Package Option. Hope this might help, NTX5467

Normal 7mm spiral-core magnetic suppression wire should work well, I suspect. No need for the HEI-sized 8mm wires unless you have an HEI distributor or similar, to me. If you are going to use the shields/covers, make sure that all of the correct looming is done to discourage cross-firing and such. Enjoy! NTX5467

Per the Team Buick area on engine production codes, "SF" is a normal 455 4bbl in 1970, with the Stage 1 version being "SS". 1971 Riviera GS Stage 1 would be "TA". The bad thing is that VINs from those years had no space for the engine designation, which would make things much easier for ALL GM vehicles, but that was not to be for a few more years. The Buick parts book has listings for "455 w/Stage 1" sprinkled all through the engine section, for 1971-1973 model years, but none are vehicle-model-specific. Even the specific carburetor number! There was also a factory kit to install the Stage 1 items on a normal 455, which might also have included the referenced grille emblem. Plus a factory short block for replacement purposes. But no mention of the body platform. Is your friend just seeking information to see what he now has? Is he ultimately looking for a value on the vehicle? A vehicle which might be the Ultimate Buick, a Riv GS and Stage 1 together? In any event DOCUMENTATION will be very important, especially if the "Stage 1" was dealer-installed. To me, a '71 Riviera GS would be a desirable vehicle to have. Only thing is that the Stage 1 option only resulted in about 20 horsepower more and no additional torque. The GS already has a 3.42 rear axle ratio, so the additional top end power is miniscule in the grand scheme of things. The troubling thing is that the engine codes don't correspond to his claims, either. Compounded by the vagueness of the Buick parts books in these issues (like specific parts which would be upgraded in other brands, but which can or cannot be upgraded in the Buick Riviera application, unless they were already upgraded to start with)? In one place, the complete transmission assy is not specific to Stage 1 Rivieras, but in another section, the valve body assy IS specific to Stage 1 engines. In one place, it uses the "Stage 1" identification to also mean "High Performance Engine". in the post-1970 model years. In reality, it appears that your friend has an alleged 1971 Riviera GS, which is a desirable car by itself, but a "Stage 1" ONLY IF supporting documentation for the "Stage 1" grille emblem is produced. Looks like he needs to do more research to support the Stage 1 situation, to me. The Buick parts book seems to be of little help. UNLESS the 455 Stage 1 motors were not available in the A-body platform in 1971, with them getting only the 400 Stage 1 motor with the same guts as the 455? That would explain a lot, possibly. If the S1 455 was only available in the Riviera, then no need to mention the model in the parts book listings. BTAIM Happy Holidays! NTX5467

The size the car came with was 8.45x15, which equates to a modern P215/75R-15. If you figure in the normal radial sidewall deflection, then a P225x75R-15 is needed so the rear bumper does not drag so much. Ride, handling, and tread life will be very good, too. Whitewalls, of course, in which ever brand you can get! Do NOT vary the sizes front to rear. Those smaller front tires will have less load capacity and the car can not handle as well, to me. I would put some air shocks on the rear so you can raise it at will, if needed. They will not hurt the ride. Personally, I put ACDelco gas shocks on my '68 LeSabre Custom conv and they firmed it up very nicely and it still rides great. From my experiences, NTX5467

Remember the Chevy commercial where the upstart Cobalt SS nudges the Corvette at a stop sign, so the Corvette will "go"? Then the Corvette does a 180 degree burnout to face the Cobalt SS and flashes it's high beams to "glare" at the Cobalt to calm down and be respectful? That's what this picture reminds me of.

At least everything is pumpkin spice toned, including the tire smoke.

NOW . . . if they had a skinny rectangular black backing plate with a Riviera script nameplate on it, to place over the "CORVETTE", then somebody might wonder what that motor that looks like a Chevy, er "GM Powertrain" motor really is. Could be fun to see their reactions at weekly cruise nights as young 'uns try to impress their dates. But worth the price. Just stick it on with double-sided trim tape so it could be easily removed later, if desired. What MIGHT be better would be to put a 6L90E transmission behind that 401. Might have to modify the trans tunnel, under the console, and get a control box to run the transmission. Plus an upgraded charging system. But that Nailhead TORQUE multiplied about 9 times before the rear axle, rather than the 3.6 or so times it now is, could really open some peoples' eyes and noses. Then, with deeper pockets, put TBI EFI on it. Something else the young'uns could identify with. Happy Holidays! NTX5467

If the spark plugs are two notches colder, that might be good to help quell clatter on acceleration. You can also kick the timing up about 2 degrees or so, too, which will make them run a bit warmer. In your "go through", do not forget to replace all of the rubber fuel lines, from the tank forward. Enjoy! NTX5467

I wanted to wish everybody a "Happy Holiday Season 2023"! We have lost some cherished friends and associates this year. I thank Mr. Earl for starting the thread so we could be aware of those of our extended family members which have passed away. We can be glad we might have known of each other and be grateful for that. We can be thankful for our family and friends which are still with us and the information shared in these forums. There are many outstanding people who have been or are BCA members, by observation. Many contributing to its past, present, and future greatness. Here's to our past accomplishments (individually and collectively as a group), using them to build upon for the future! Happy Holidays from North Texas, NTX5467

Be aware that part-throttle downshift is handled by the THM400 vacuum modulator, with WOT kickdown being done electrically. Just basic "single-pitch" THM400 operation. On our '69 Chevy pickup with a THM400 automatic, the kickdown switch on operated by a paddle attached to the throttle arm on the carb, which depresses a plunger of a switch (similar to the pictured) switch to make WOT downshifts happen. In later years, on cars, that switch was moved to the top of the hanging accel pedal bracket, with an extension of the upper pedal contacting the slide on the switch. All unseen unless you laid in the floorboards to look for it. The switch on our Chevy pickup has only two electrical attachments, rather than 4 in the switch pictured. When installing a THM400 switch-pitch into a "foreign" vehicle (as a Pontiac), it was common to just "toggle switch" the converter switching. Great that those switches can be rebuilt! NTX5467

I wanted to wish everybody "Happy Holiday Season 2023"! May all of your Buicks be beautiful and run great in the coming months! From North Texas, NTX5467

I could find AMA Specs for 1955, 1958, and 1959 364s, plus 1959 and 1966 401s. I remember reading about the "rough idle" in the 1959 401s, which Buick allegedly made some changes in later model years to seek to correct. BUT what I found did not really support that. As to camshaft specs, here's what I found . . . ++1958 -- 364 2bb4bbl DF Intake - 34-89-297 Exh - 76-41-297 Lift - .423/.423 ++1959 -- 364 DF Intake - 35-73-288 Exh - 73-37-290 Lift - .443/.439 ++1959 -- 401 DF Intake - 33-77-290 Exh - 75-44-299 Lift - .439/.441 ++1966 -- 401 AT Intake - 28-87-295 Exh - 76-46-302 Lift - .431/.431 --The 1958 364 base ign timing was 5 degrees BTDC @ 400rpm --The 1959 401 base ign timing was 12 degrees BTDC @ hot idle speed for the DF, 5 degrees @ 400rpm for the manual trans. According to the number, if ANY engine would have a rough idle, it should be the 364s as it is a smaller engine size with the same cam duration as the 401s, especially the 1959 364 with the higher valve lift. BTAIM With the 1966 401 being a slight bit rougher than the 1959, by the duration numbers comparison. But we might be splitting hairs, as all of the duration and lift numbers are really in the same ball park? For the times, those total duration numbers are a bit larger than other brands' engines tended to use. The issue with them can be moderated by cyl head flow characteristics and valve sizes. Which is probably what they tried to do in order to compensate for the allegedly poor port flow on the Nailheads. Which was noted in a 1967 edition of a Petersen Publications book on USA and Foreign cars. It noted that with the Nailhead's smaller valves and wilder valve timing, that mid-range torque was increased over a broad rpm band as ultimate top-end horsepower was decreased a bit ty the valve and intake runner sizing. Which tends to explain the great low and mid-range torque of Buick Nailheads and later Buick V-8s. I won't go into a discussion of "Why" Buick designed the cyl heads as they did, but I suspect that if things were more "Small Block Chevy" in orientation, power would have resulted from the wilder camshafts rather than "torque". Although the horsepower quoted for the Nailheads (of larger sizes) was competitive, it was not earth-shattering by observation. With the typical target market demographic of those Buicks, torque was more important than ultimate horsepower, although horsepower was used for advertising purposes. It also took torque to compensate for the lack of torque multiplication of the DynaFlow transmission, too. So the DF and more low-end torque (strangled by the transmission) were necessary companions in making Buicks as smooth and responsive as they were . . . at least until the THM400 arrived. Another story for another time. As to the rough idle, there can be some other things than just camshaft timing events involved. Hot base idle speed is one, which probably should have been more in the 600-650rpm in "N". Which could have been helped by a bit more initial ignition base timing. With the quality of the air/fuel ratio provided by the carburetor in the mix, as well as the equality of air/fuel mixture distribution by the INTAKE MANIFOLD a definite contributor to the situation. All of these things would have been easier to fix than re-desiging a camshaft. Additionally, upgrades in the ignition system and adding some "fine wire" electrode NGKs into the mix, could also help compensate for some of the mixture differences between cylinders. A few YouTube videos with that plug in a lawn mower engine with a clear cyl head so the "POW!" of the spark could be seen indicate that the NGK Iridiums deliver longer run-times (on a lawn mower fuel tank full) than other gap designs do. BUT with some time spent with an ignition point file and some pliers, better results can be had with normal spark plugs, from my experiences. PM me for details of what I've done over the years. Getting to the carburetor side of things, it has been my observation that as time has progressed, carburetor venturi designs have gotten better with each new version of existing carburetors. I also discovered (on the OEM AFB on a non-Buick I have), that some time spent with a point file in de-burring the casting flash in the throttle bores and on the outside of the venturis, that more airflow can result. PM me for information. At this point in time, in the life of the Nailhead engines, there is ANOTHER side issue. A possible side issue I discovered when I was trying to set the points on my non-Buick, using a dial indicator to set the point gap. That issue is breaker cam WEAR and how it is not even acros all of the cam lobes. Different point gaps means different dwell readings for each lobe, which can then mean different base timing effective differences on each lobe, as a result. Some cylinders might be on 10 degrees BTDC as others are on 8 degrees or even on 6 degrees BTDC, for example. Might such things, related ot basic production quality control cause a non-glass-smooth idle situation? Which is where the Pertronix or HEI electronic ignition conversions can come into play. Back when the cars were newer, we didn't worry about such variations. Much knew they might exist! So in doing the points, just "choose one" to set the point gap with. Delco "window" distributors made things easier, with the later dwell meters being a "moving average" of the point gaps and average dwell readings. Another issue can be differences in plug wire resistances, as they are not all the same length. Ever wonder why modern engines an use "coil on plug" designs rather than unequal length spark plug wires? Now we're splitting "milli-seconds" in spark production! NOW, we are into the "winter season" when "car projects" happen. Better than sitting in front of a television display and mindlessly watching binge re-runs of things like "Family Feud" or "The Newlywed Game". Spending quality time in the garage, where your spouse knows where you are, can result in some progress toward making your cherished vehicle(s) operate and look better than they normally would. Some wax and polish, too. Great stress relief! Happy Holidays! NTX5467

Perhaps the rubber mounts hare hardened a bit, not unusual, but I kind of doubt that's where the roughness is suddenly coming from. I would be more concerned about that "perceived mis-fire" situation, which seems to be elusive and causing the sympathetic resonance issues. A "lean mis-fire" will be barely felt and might put more hydrocarbons out the tail pipe, as a result. But not as much as a "full mis-fire" would. As to the "rough idle" issue, the ONE area never addressed is the loading of the torque converter on the engine at idle. Perhaps a converter with a slight bit looser "high angle" stall speed might be all that's needed? Of possibly an idle speed up to about 75rpm higher? NTX5467

One of the most beautiful Buicks of modern times, those '65-'68 2dr hardtops and converrtibles. I liked them even when they were new, back then. More now. A great looking car, Ted. Happy Holidays! NTX5467

I suspect that "nobody wants to do old cars anymore" might not be because their owners are more picky or similar, but because the painters only know how to shoot 2-stage of basecoat/clearcoat paints. Nor how to color-match the earlier paints, as in the PPG videos I've seen, you don't know what the bc/cc paint is going to be until it dries fully. The other issue might be that a vintage car owner might desire "show quality" paint, which ups the price a bit, usually. BUT, this is one reason I advise to ask for "a current OEM-level paint job" and nothing more. Reason? IF they are used to doing that level of paint and body work, then that would be MORE than what we had back then OEM. So, a better paint job without getting something more expensive, it should be. If they can do the body work to look good under the shiner bc/cc paint, then it ought to be just fine under a single-stage acrylic lacquer. Another reason might be that in doing the full prep work, they might uncover some prior flaky repairs that need attention. When found, there usually is no "point of no return", so "nobody wins" that game . . . at the customer's expense. So, much easier to deal with insurance companies and customer deductibles. NTX5467