Mark Gregush

I have seen guys that welded up Ford Model T shackle bolts then turned them down. They commented on the fact the welded area wore quickly and if they had then at least case hardened, they would have lasted longer. Using the original bolts, you all ready have the threaded hole for the grease fitting and internal passage to start with.

Early Dodge Brothers used an air pressure fuel system. Don't think my 1914-1927 master parts books shows what brand they would have used, but that looks to be about the range. Might also post it in that section down below.

Some early electric cars that I have seen pictures of the gauges, they were fairly large. Like Baker.

Build it up by welding, turn/polish to size and have hardened.

As short as the cables are, might not be an issue anyway.

Did you know there are left and right twist speedometer cables? Twist goes opposite of rotation, so it does not try and unwind.

From" RADCO CARBURETOR AND MOTOR TUNE-UP MANUAL, 1925 TO 1930": Under Stromberg O and T; "The model OT is similar to the OE but cast in brass with special heavy construction to render it suitable for truck and motorbus service. It carries a special heavy duty float mechanism. This model is made in 1-1/4, 1-1/2 and 1-3/4 sizes. The 1-1/2 being unusaual in that the throttle shaft is parallel with the center line of the flange holes which flange holes are in line with the air entrance of float chamber in all the OT models." Sorry can't be any more help. All my books are car information, no trucks or motorbus.

1925 roadster body

Oh, I forgot the worn thin dime to gap them!

For the Model T Ford's, you can buy a disk brake setup. Still uses the original parking brakes and has rotors welded to the drum.

You also needed a pry bar to bend the point up before you hit it back down with a hammer. But yes, they are adjusted with a hammer and pry bar (or screw driver works too). LOL

Will run either way. The starter/generator will self polarize. If you swap grounds, the amp meter wiring will need to be changed too.

Yours would have been originally positive ground. Dodge went from negative to positive ground around 1921 when the horn button was moved from the door to steering column.

If you don't have a copy of the "Mechanics' Instruction Manual", you should think about getting one.

The Ford Model A used rubber mounts at the rear and engine floated at the front. Wonder if Model A Float a Motor could be adapted at least at the rear, but would still leave solid mount at front; Snyders - Float-A-Motor Kit (snydersantiqueauto.com)

All it needs is an AC amp meter. You can buy them all over the place if you look. Do a search of AC amp meters. It does have to be analog, not digital. I didn't say anything about needing an AC meter because I didn't even think about adding that, having worked on them for so long forgot it might not be common knowledge. I have the same Allan unit that I use to setup coils. HCCT (Hand Crank Coil Tester) Meter Repair - MTFCA Forum

The only thing that makes the meter special are the marking on the face and size. Any AC ampere meter that reads in the low ampere range will work fine, for example 0 to 3-5 range. The extra marking does not contribute to how it works.

Just as a heads up, there is a Dodge Brothers section down the list of topics. Dodge & Dodge Brothers - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org) Re"One should NEVER spin up that starter/generator without a battery (and associated connections) hooked up." You can run the car with the fuse removed. Takes the generator out of the system. Same with blowing the fuse. When the fuse blows or is removed the generator is disabled.

How about White Post Restoration? Brake Sleeving & Rebuilding Services – White Post Restorations

Is the carburetor in the picture the one on the car? The one shown is a FAX with economizer valve, the FA does not have that valve. On both styles, the adjustment on the carb body as said, is the idle adjustment. The other is the high-speed adjustment. With the Model T, I adjust the idle to where it runs best. For the high speed, I start with the base adjustment as suggested, then test drive the car, if it stumbles on acceleration, open it a bit more till the car does not stumble on acceleration. The economizer allows for a controlled richer mixture on cold start up then can gradually be decreased as the car warms up or can be used under a hard pull when more fuel is needed. Anyway, that is how I run my FAX. The FA is setup about the same but just uses the choke to prime the engine and is a set-it and leave-it type carburetor. I have the run both styles on my T. If you are having running issues, could need the passageways cleaned or filter under bowl is partly plugged or the high-speed needle needs adjusting. It could also be running too rich and is flooding the engine. Try doing the base line adjustments as posted and go from there. From a Weeler-Schebler fan, amongst the other I go back and forth playing with as the mood strikes on my Model T. You could try also doing a search on same T forum: mtfca; Wheeler Schebler, which you may have done. There have been lots of post over the years, some of which I have asked questions or contributed to.

Could be radiator stop leak. Evapo-rust does not remove that type of stuff or grease. If you read the label, grease kill Evapo-rust. It was made to work on grease free rust.

LOL some of know the details but stopped worrying about them!

or make friends with someone that has a shop!

Cleveland could just be where it was made. Might be for one of the stationary type engines, like would have been used on a farm.

Oh hell, every car I have owned, even my everyday drivers, have or seem to be, project cars in one way or the other. LOL