Jubilee

I don’t know if a temperature bulb would survive dry ice or not. But, heat on the stationary part then dry ice on the moveable part quickly, has gotten me out of some seemingly impossible situations.

I tell my wife all the time that I’d wished I’d paid more attention when I took that mind reading class years ago.

Just a curiosity, I thought all manufacturers where going to R134a in 1992. We have a 1993 Roadtrek van, Chevy G30, bought new fall of 1992, and it’s R134a. A 1993 1 ton Chevy is R134a and a 1993 Cadillac is R12?

The battery in my 1985 F250 service truck has 09 sticker on it. Truck has zero parasitic draw. Battery to start welder and air compressor on truck has 03 sticker on it. Both work fine. Truck is used very little. Batteries are charged up on a smart charger once a year. Both batteries are group 31 1000 cca.

Has anybody mentioned pulling the coil wire and cranking over when it’s hot? If it spins, timing advanced too far. Doesn’t take much.

Worked on the farm on those 100+ degree days. Wrap fuel line in burlap and fasten with clothes pins. No zip ties then. City folks didn’t realize the clothes pins were just a fastener.

You watched for 5 minutes? I tip my hat to your tenacious.

Hey Walt We had a 3 digit phone number until the early fifties. Single line. Town of 3000. Hospital, high school, library, courthouse, movie theater, drive in movie, VFW, railroad, numerous churches, newspaper, three grocery stores, great place to grow up. You gave the operator the number after the “ number please” I still remember the number. Grilled into me by my Mom.

Very interesting read. I was about 8 years old when my Dad bought a 1947 White truck with a Hall-Scott engine that had sodium filled exhaust valves. I knew what an exhaust valve was and I knew what salt was ,but nobody could explain the reasoning to me. They just said the valves last longer. I was in high school before my shop teacher ( a WWII B-17 pilot ) explained the sodium cycles and cooling effect to me in a way I could understand.

Looks like Ray Charles welded that wheel with his feet.

I was in the trucking business for over sixty years and my father and brothers before me. Over 5 million miles. I’ve driven them all, except auto shifts and automatics. Two sticks, cable shifts, air shifts, unishifts, two speeds, three speeds, spicer, road ranger,triplex,quadaplex, and etc. Everything unsynchronized. I learned two sticks when I was 12 years old. My Dad had some three stick setups, but these were just to get another power tower (think power takeoff) to run extra winches, pumps, etc. If you were going to drive two sticks on anything but completely flat ground, you’d better learn how to shift with no clutch and both hands or you’d be dead stopped ( or rolling backwards) on a good incline or rolling out of gear ( and out of control) on a steep down grade. Those multiple trannys were necessary to spread out the torque loads for the metallurgy of the day and make design size linear.

Warm hub. Dry ice race. ( let race sit on dry ice until it quits singing) Drop race in hub. Wear gloves. Race will not be damaged in any way. I’ve probably installed over 500 races this way. Before 1980, we use to change all 18 wheel bearings, races, and seals on the semis about every 400,000-500,000 miles. Preventative maintenance. Now a days, bearing unit and seals usually good for 1,000,000+ miles.

The safety police would go bonkers if they walked through my shop and saw me working. Not trying to be flippant, but I still do things in the shop pretty much as I did 65-70 years ago before safety glasses, masks, warnings, and etc. were around. I just try not to do anything really stupid that will hurt me. I must be really lucky because according to my last physical, all those years of breathing paint,gasoline, exhaust fumes and grinding dust haven’t hurt me yet. Still stick/ mig weld with oxy/acetylene goggles in tight places. Still don’t need glasses. I guess I’m saying a person’s business is his business.

Sixties. Wintertime. Western Kansas, middle of night, middle of nowhere. Hadn’t seen another vehicle for over an hour. Wife and two small children in car. Road was dry, but wind was howling. Ran over tree branch in road. Lights dimmed, water temperature started climbing. Fan belts destroyed. Made belts out of wife’s panty hose. Made it to next small town driving slowly. Ran engine for heat rest of night until gas station opened up next morning. Have carried spare belts in every vehicle since then.

In 1956 or 57 I won a Henry J in a poker game. I was still in high school. Think it went in the pot for $45-$50. ( A ‘49-51 Ford was $100-$125) The next day, the guys dad got a hold of my dad and nulled the deal. The guys dad owned the Conoco station and gave me two-three free tanks of gas, worth $6-$9. Thanks forum for the memory jolt.

Electric temperature gauges that run high are easy to calibrate. Just add resistors to the wire until you get it corrected. I usually add 5-10 ohms at a time to start. Just bare the wire and twist the resistors on to the bare wire Here’s a GM chart

Yeah, before I saw the charts posted I was going to say a grunt to a grunt and a half.

I have three carbureted vehicles with antique plates that have to be smogged every 5 years. I don’t consider these vehicles antiques. Here you can get antique plates if the vehicle is 32 years old. The only way they will pass is if the vacuum advance is plugged, egr is plugged, timing is retarded as far as possible, and idle mixture is leaned to where vacuum drops a couple of points. Oh, and fresh gas.

Has a 10 hole tubeless budd type wheel/ tire on steering axle with some kind of an adapter plate. I think I saw a similar wide 5 lug spacing on a 47 or 48 K5 international. I would say the front axle is old.

Many many flathead fords on irrigation pumps running on propane or casing head gas (if near oilfield) in 50’s and sixties. Small block Chevys and Chrysler V8s replaced them. I’ve owned 4 or 5 pickups that ran on gas or propane. Start on gas in cold weather and then switch. Propane was free where I grew up. Engine oil will stay perfectly clean/clear forever running on propane.

But, they said if it was out of stock they could order it from factory and have it direct shipped to customer

I got a ticket in Kansas in early sixties for having driver’s door welded shut on a 190 IHC dump truck. Rattling door was driving me crazy. It was an ICC inspection ( before DOT) and to my amazement, the tack welded door was the only thing they wrote up.

About 10 years ago, my brother-in-law had an overheating problem with his 1990 f150 302. It was getting hot and puking out the coolant. He lives in western Kansas and only used pickup to haul trash and pull a small fishing boat to a lake about 20 miles away. I was visiting him one summer ( about 110 outside) and he asked me look at it. You could actually see when the two adjoining cylinders fired by looking in the radiator. Head gasket for sure. Offered to pull head, he wanted to try some sealer. I was against it. He gave $30-40 for some sealer at Autozone. I think it was made by Barr’s leak. It’s still holding. I was down there in June and we drove it to the lake a couple of times. He claims he’s never had to add coolant. If it was mine, I’d fix it right, but he’s happy.

Lots of work and expensive adapter to fit C4 to Y block. The Fordamatic behind Y blocks was a Borg Warner outfit I believe. Probably easier to install a FE engine with C4 or C6 than couple a C4 to a Y block. Then again, it’s been 45-50 years since I was fooling with the swap. Maybe someone has simplified it.

I started using Chinese Onan generator knock off fuel pumps ( think Onan Microlite ect. )about 10 years ago simply because I had some laying around. Great little pumps. High lift, even pressure. Easy mounting brackets and fuel line hook up. Still under $25. Have them on all my carburetor engines.