Jubilee

I’m from the silent generation. All my antiques have fuzzy dice if they have a inside mirror. Never hung anything on a mirror in the fifties, sixties, or seventies that I can remember, but I think the dice are “cool” now. ( a boomer generation term).

This. I’ve patched gas tanks with this stuff.

I didn’t make myself clear. Code readers PROVIDED ground for digital dash. obd2 was a GM and Wi-Fi code reader was left in place obd1 was a Chrysler under hood connection and Chrysler code reader was zip tied in place. Also, I strongly disagree with the statement that obd1 has limited trouble shooting abilities. Just takes the right diagnostic tools.

I know absolutely nothing about digital dashboards, but I have repaired two in the last 4 or 5 years. I plugged in a code reader. one was a obd1. The other obd2. Bad ground.

Aerosol shaving cream/lather

We have one in town that belongs to a construction company. Always pull about a 16’ flatbed trailer. Just an advertising stunt I think. I happened to follow it out of Home Depot last week and then ended up beside it at a couple of stop lights. The thing that got my attention was the tires, believe it or not. They looked like 16 ply farm implement tires. I figure the designers felt it was 99% ugly, but something was missing so they threw the tires and wheels on it to reach 100% ugly.

Have to consider purpose. light gauge square tube, possible flag mount?

Just went through something similar on a 327 Chevy. problem was 3 fold. timing mark was off about 6 degrees. (Advanced) remarked at tdc and added degree tape. ( who knows how that got off in the last 60 years. Parts good.) vacuum advance was frozen. Replaced with new. vacuum advance was tied to ported vacuum. Tied advance to full vacuum. Made a different engine out of it. Starts and idles perfectly. No more black smoke. No sooted plugs.

Sounds like you have an all rubber component (valve, check valve, o ring) that’s shrinking and failing as it gets hot. Hard to believe in this day and age. Use to see same problem in hydrovac assist on K model IHC trucks in fifties-sixties.

I have two vehicles I want to paint while I’m still able to lift and hold a full pot gun steady. I want to do one this spring/summer which means I may have to hire some yard work out. This is a desperate move for a skinflint like me.

For grins I ran that 1915 6 ton KisselKar truck pictured above and priced at $4350 through the inflation calculator. Over $132,000 in today’s dollars. Good Heavens!

I disagree. If properly lubed, ( regularly lubed with weight off spindle) there should never be any metal to metal contact. Also, I always use a constant solvent flood when reaming with hones. Reamer is best, but not always available.

I’ve used a brake cylinder hone flushed with solvent when I didn’t have correct reamer a few times..

I had 5 or 6 mostly unused ones found in my brothers things when he passed. Had a wooden box full of hitch balls. He was in his nineties. One of my great grandsons wanted some to weld on top of steel gate in his driveway, and that’s where the odd size is now. They’re out there.

I put thousands of miles on both routes before the interstate. Today I enjoy an occasional drive on ‘old thirty’ especially across Wyoming, Nebraska, Idaho for a trip down memory lane. Any trip on 66 just reminds me of heat and dust. Of course if you’re driving an antique, you don’t have to be reminded of no power steering, no ac, questionable heat, low power, questionable downgrade braking, no wipers on the upgrades, continuously working radio, and etc.etc. Still, they’re enjoyable memories except for the incredibly narrow, cement, curbed parts, and the narrow bridges, of both routes that are long gone.

For me, that would be a fiberglass repair. Looks like plenty room inside for fiberglass. I’d make a locating plate attached to part with coupling nuts and bolts to allow working behind plate and hold broken part in place.

I just solved a power window problem by taking the other door panel off, measuring and learning how mechanism is supposed to work

1959 was THE year in my opinion. I’ve always been impressed by excess. Automotively speaking.

I think everyone should have at least one open vehicle. I had a fifty Ford convertible for about 25 years. I bought a CJ5 Jeep about 50 years ago which is a canvas top, bikini top, or no top and finally sold the Ford because I was always driving the Jeep. Still have the Jeep, still fun.

I might add on the Kansas turnpike the 80 mph limit was for ALL vehicles. Anything that paid a toll.

In 1956, the speed limit on the Kansas turnpike was 80 mph

Those prices seem pretty high for the time. You could buy a pretty good used car for some of those prices. My Dad had a truck and tractor repair shop (and trucking business) from right after WWll until the mid sixties. Good car engine overhaul never would run over $100. I’d say most were $60-$80. Now, if you had a hole in the block with a rod sticking through it, then you might get close to Sears prices depending what the junkyard had. II think the top mechanics were getting $1.00- $1-25/hr. No overtime, but they could use a Chilton’s flat rate on many jobs. This was early-middle fifties. New hires started @ .75 / hr I think. I don’t know, I never got paid any money, but I did get free gas, tires, and repairs.

If it ever comes up to measure WB on a tandem axle vehicle ( think Mercedes Benz G4), you measure from center of front axle to center point between rear axles.

A Barrs Leak block seal type treatment will usually seal up leak sometimes for four days, sometimes forever. A leak down test ( cheap Harbor Freight kit) might pinpoint leak area and give you an idea of engine condition overall.

I might add, the best improvement I’ve found in old headlight systems, is cataract surgery. Especially in picking up wildlife eye reflections.