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(S)

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  1. I am helping on a 32 Commander and found making them was not very complicated. I still need to find the front 2 'catches' that bolt to the radiator or a sample, but managed to get a complete set of handles by looking very hard. The metal 'cage', spring, and rod were not easy- but not the hardest things to make.... Do you have the 'catches' that bolt to the cowl ?
  2. I think input shafts are probably the difference, the main transmission may be 'interchangeable'... I'm always curiously finding and learning about the earlier stuff. I have this one here that I am trying to ID. It may not even be Studebaker. Notice a switch on the top, a band brake and bolted yoke, an OD governor? and electrics..... Another odd part is the side cover. Most were top loaders?
  3. Find any '32 Commander 71 parts in your stash? I do not need a '35 Trans , but numbers on the case would be good, or a picture? I always have things to ID.
  4. !! Thanks !! I started to fit the body with 1/4 inch rubber pads. They are on the soft side and wondered how high the body should sit. At the rear of the car, the gas tank filler panel / cover won't clear the gas filler/ slide under the body.. I was thinking to just shim it with something with less squish , then that X member wont be so high.
  5. This car has a frame X member that seems to stick up past the 'plane' of where the floor should be. ANyone know if the floor had a notch cut out for it, or do we just shim the body higher? It has a 1/8 th rubber shim only all the way around.... This is the X member/ driveline loop, near the rear passenger floor. Thanks in advance.
  6. On the 109 wheelbase 4 doors with the short rear door, you have to remove the rectangular panel on the door shell or you will never back together without hurting something. Chances are, something already got bent just taking it out. I hope they found the access plate first. To remove or install, the glass rotates slightly and protrudes through the open hole in the door shell. Look closely at the rear door shell.
  7. Hang in there RBK. Sorry for your loss. I'd have 2 crusty used ones.
  8. The sockets can be a hard find. LED bulbs are the new trend and are quite bright and plentiful,. I bought up a bunch of originals and Craig is correct, they are also plentiful . I have extras. I now stock many hard to find 6V bulbs.
  9. Also- a rear E brake cable that measures about 3/8 to 1/2 inch longer than a 41 Champion, NOS a nice used wiper driver 'nut' from an M series truck that fits many models prior to 1941 Right side grille from a 41 Champion, decent used chrome, no cracks M series truck radio 'U U bolts' from an installation kit Resistor, or noise suppressor unit from M series truck, or any 6 V radio brass 'straps' for wire harness, bundles, under dash, NOS short and long 'Studebaker Product Report' form for a Studebaker dealer to report problems. This is a customer complaint form with multiple copies for warranty work or complaints with spaces to fill out what the complaint was, what was the fix, and other info. It has a pre addressed envelope to send to Studebaker : Studebaker Packard Corp, SB, Indiana.. 1928 Brake drums, front. Also have wheel bearings, brake parts, shoes and hardware. 1928 6 Cyl Head - no cracks but needs clean up. 1922 EJ steel disc wheel, with ring. Not perfect, but good. 1922 EJ doors, front. very good complete- fully loaded, or parts 1922 EJ lug nuts, solid Brass not perfect, but solid. L and R 1928- 30 Headlight rim and glass solid with some tiny chips in glass, very rechrome-able bezel. shines with some pits. Echlin VR 1 voltage regulator, new in the box, with some moisture damage on the cad plated cover. 517900 STD main bearing set 1939- Champion 6 .030 Rings, 1939 champion 529479 OD kick down Switch 1941- up cars and M series truck Not a whole bunch, but many more pre war parts., just email the model, year and description
  10. Pic 1 is a throttle shaft, NOS with some rust from storage. Very similar to my 41 Champion, but larger, so I assume 41 Commander . Cowl mounted. Pic 2 Trico? printed on it but cant quite read it. or similar brand, Brass wiper driver arm Pic 3 odd 'covers' for hiding a hinge or something? These are only 5 inches tall, and 3 1/4 at the widest spot... Pic 4 'bolt' with knurelled head, cotter pin hole. 2 3/4 grip, 7/16 shoulder, just smaller threads These are for sale, or trade for any 1932 Commander parts......
  11. I know of one. I can get details if you really want one of these. It all depends on if you are serious, and if you want a turn key or want to do some work.
  12. I normally go after Studebaker stuff, but sometimes some other parts come with a lot sale. 1939- 40? De soto side hood, NOS, Mercury 1948? trunk handle, solid used. I found some circa 1941 chevy grille bar, side mouldings, Plymouth headlight ring, and Studebaker stuff . Plymouth headlight rim 1941? https://www.ebay.com/itm/303577644673 Chevy grille center bar ? 1941 1942 ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/303576777357 Other non stude stuff coming soon
  13. That bumper ornament is neat. Is that a second stude logo on the crank hole cover? Is that original? Thanks
  14. I have a right side hood panel that I think is Chrysler or Desoto circa 1937- 1940 But there are length differences and the angle at the front makes it hard to pinpoint what year this is. It resembles a 1940 Desoto, but has no holes, and the tip of the front is more rounded. Is it Chrysler? Can anyone pinpoint this? I can get more pics, or close ups ... Grease pencil number on the back reads 947042 , Panel has minor flaws, no sign of bolt marks. $200 OBO
  15. Hi all- Had to edit this- The new panels are for an M5 side hood and one is probably Desoto I still have a horn to figure out. I need the horn, but panels are for sale. Thanks!
  16. Sorry, I was hoping they were the same. Yours is probably not the same. I'm up in Washington..
  17. I have a post somewhere about ID on a 1922 - 1924 I just bought. Look for the post- it has some pictures. It has a complete engine in rough shape. I may be able to go get just the pump off of it. It would be cheap, but need to see if it is any good..
  18. I had zero luck with wood floor patterns, so I just need a bit more info if anyone has some. If you have any patterns, that would be good too. It looks like they were solid boards. Any idea if they were Ash, Oak, ? Aluminum edge guard around pedals? Did it have one? Would linseed oil be the best bet, or some stain? ANy pictures of any part of them would be great. Even if not from a '32. Looking for how they were built. Thanks!!! Also Looking for: Good picture of the dash for switch orientation... Hood strip , pictures, or pattern, broken, would work. Hood strip ends, patterns, pictures Tailight assy, good bad, ugly but nicer would be great. Front or rear bumpers side mount parts , spare wheel Show me your 32 Commander pictures! Thanks!!!
  19. It does resemble one of the plates that goes to the block, maybe for another engine? The engine book does show them.
  20. Painted parts do not go in an engine. Try near the steering column, or transmission/floor area. It sure looks like a shifter hole/ E brake hole cover.
  21. Thanks guys! As to that oil can- We had old dealer stock and never knew some of these were probably Studebaker! I am learning all the time thanks to your knowledge. ( and great pictures ! )
  22. Question- On the Disc wheels, do you just pry the ring off and change the rubber tire, then put the ring back on? That is how I read the ad. Seems easy enough. It must be the later split rings that were dangerous?
  23. Thanks Scott. Would the disc wheels fit up to 1924 ? Or just 1920- 22? Thanks
  24. OK Thank you. I don't have the books and a search at the SDC engine serial number site does not list it. I should probably email them. I'll make the EJ Light 6 parts available soon if anyone is looking... Thanks.
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