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The hinge bracket may 'sandwich' between those, is what I was thinking. The space for the hood would be too tall if it sits on top?

I have two questions- I think I have seen this positioned on the top of the radiator flange. Is this one correct/ Does anyone have a spare for another member's model 55 St Regis ?

It had a Wagner tag, but the pic I posted got dumped because it was the wrong format or something for this forum. Thanks ! He is on vacation, and I am waiting for another picture to post.

I'll double check. Thanks

They probably figured one was enough. I have a NOS 199210 if you need one. The parts book says one per car, 5A, J5 Dictator and Coupe Express.

All I know is it is a big 6 and a Wagner Starter. I had a forwarded pic, but it expired.

I'm in WA State if you don't find one. This one needs work, so I was asking 200 bucks. Shipping is probably 400 bucks or more. Wing nuts, latch and Batt bolts not included, I need those.

Hi. I'm helping locate a starter armature, end bushings or a whole starter for a 1925 big 6 . The starter just 'smokes' when powered up. If it can't get rewound, he may need a new part. Thanks

Yes, that is a horn part. Just have to match it up now. Those upper column bearings are 2 sizes, just gotta match them up to something.. Thanks guys. If none of this fits the 32 or the 41 it is for sale..

I got a small lot of Studebaker Pre War parts. If anyone can ID any of it, that would be great. Most of it looks like transmission parts and suspension/ king pins. Just a guess may put me in the ballpark, and I can look them up from there. I have part number tags that all fell off, so if you could name one part, I can figure the rest out. Thanks so much. Axle keys, misc sizes. Steering ? column cushion/ guides? Weird roller/cage bearings ? Shafts with machined surface/ threaded on the end, Water pump? /steering idler ? I have more pics of more items.

Nice work ! South Bend is a fun trip too.

Thanks. Here is the mystery part. Almost 5 inches tall by 33 1/2 made of stainless steel. It has two holes in each end and a flange for something ? to bolt up on each end. It is kind of light for a bumper, but I cant place it anywhere else. Can anyone ID it?

I just got a new load of parts in stock and have an unmarked bumper part that looks like a circa 1937 Studebaker and it looks like stainless steel. . Were they a 3 piece bumper? Thanks

There are many types of welt, The parts book calls it all 'welt' . The front fenders have a jute like strip material between the frame and the fenders, and I think some cars had some welt type stuff that sticks out between the body and fender joints. and had a round bead. (similar to late 1940's cars ) I am looking into the same questions for a 32 Commander.. I know of an FB , un-restored 28 or 29 and I can contact the owner. I recently parted out a 28 Dictator and it had a thick jute pad ( over 1/4 inch ) between the engine and frame, side pans, and the whole length of the fenders that contact the frame....

Front wheel bearings info is in the chassis book. Large bearing Cup- Timken 2523 Cone 2582 Small bearing Cup Timken 1329 Small bearing Cone Timken 1380 These fit Model FD Model 70 , 71, 82, and the Large one was also on C . I have seen these on Ebay still. When at South Bend keep an eye out for a center hood strip/ hinge for 32 Commander model 71 which is about 38 inches long. Hubs get tricky. there are a few types depending on 'demountable' and non, and also USA vs Canada and before or after a certain Serial number...

I have some window regulators for Studebakers Most of these list for $90 - up to $125 for rebuilt ones. . These are NOS ! I'll cut it way down from list price Most of these ship for 16 bucks. 98248 Wa State. 265339 Rt Frt 1937 4 dr 266807 RT frt and Lt rear 1938 -39 4 Drs 284842 Rt Frt 47 - 48 cars, not convertible or Land Cruiser 287058 and 059 Lt and Rt Rear 1947 - 52 Convertibles 285484 Rt Rear 47 - 52 2 Dr Sedans 303656 needs ID C/K rear ? 343355 needs ID 274398 needs ID 281097 for LT Frt 1941 Champ and Comm, needs ID why not 41 Champion 2 Dr ( which I need ) I have piles of new and used, mostly 52 - 66, and some need ID. It was a whole truck load saved from a rebuilders shop.

Passing it on. It says it is in Alabama .. https://www.facebook.com/groups/499190190271959/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=1850660441791587

The intake went to Ontario, the exhaust was poor condition. The engine itself was actually good looking except for some rust in the bores and around the valves. It had almost zero ridge. I was going to save the internals and scrap the block.

The book says you could also use a 4 door, rear, lower and also 11A 12 A 7C and 8C up to 41 Which I have in used condition. I'd need time to remove and check them. if one does not pop right up, I can help.

Looks like a toy model I have here of a 22 big six touring, but it seems shorter. I'm no expert...

Having trouble with the king pins..... I got the lock bolt out, but the pin wont drive out. I tried driving it from the top down, and also from the bottom up. It won't budge. ANy tips would be great. I have it almost parted out now. Shipping is available from NW Wa State.

The one I am parting out is first series, serial number is listed.

See a few posts down from this one. Might you have a list.?

Fender is rough, and F pump has 'cracking' from age. I don't know if there is any way to repair these when they crack from age. ? Working on pulling the engine up, so I can get the starter and bell housing.

At this point, the person wanting it does not want it. I can part it out. All of it is available. The right fender has some old tears and welds. It is solid enough in my opinion to use. I'd need to pluck the engine Henry, and get it apart. Anyone wanting things needs to speak up. Parts are in NW Washington. I can ship.