Hans3

New driver door seal cured more wind noise than I expected (it was impossible to isolate the precise source of the noise). Now with things "quieter" I can tell the top of the vent frame is leaking some air, despite having a new seal above the windows. Firewall drilled holes and torn shifter boot under the console are other culprits.

Any new sources for those 90-degree clips that attach the cardboard to the hinge recess? The used parts players are usually only interested in higher margin transactions.

You're correct that the "new" vacuum modulators don't look the same--they're physically smaller than the older units. Rest assured they all function the same AND have an adjustment screw inside the vacuum line port for changing the shift points. Your local Napa will have the best brick&mortar price, but you can see the full range available new today on Rock Auto.com. Their price will be more expensive than Napa's after factoring their sky-high shipping charges.

Modern group 27s appear taller than the equivalent batteries from the 60s; this forces one to bulge the factory battery hold-down bracket over the top of the battery, whereas photos from when new show the bracket laying flat across the top. The height issue is compounded if one chooses to install one of those Delco battery toppers. Unfortunately, as previously stated, 27s are the best fit from all that's available.

You'll need a steady hand and some patience to apply it correctly because of the compressor's curvature. Practice first on a soda bottle or coffee can. Keep some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits handy in case you don't like how the first few applications appear. Not too much mineral spirits else you'll remove the compressor's black paint. Testor's model yellow paint works as an alternate to aerosol if you brush it on a flat surface and then dab the stamp on it. Stamp your test surface 1-2 times to remove excess paint.

An SEM Color Coat aerosol is a quality option.

Looks like I need one of those spring clips as well, though my remote seems to work properly without it. If anyone has an extra to sell ...

'65 it is, and fairly certain that 1/2 is the correct diameter. Many online vendors quote a 9/16-18 nut, but that's definitely too large.

Is the thread size of the 1st-gen steering pump (pulley) shaft 1/2-20 or another 1/2 pitch size? I want to clean my shaft threads and don't want to choose the wrong die size; thanks!

My 3-2 kickdown action "flutters," or engages and disengages rapidly, when actuated close to the MPH limit for this downshift. Is this an issue with the linkage switch needing adjustment or the kickdown solenoid within the SP400? I'm used to other GM and foreign automatics either allowing the highway speed kickdown or not allowing it (no kickdown action), hence my concern regarding this flutter-type behavior.

A fortunate outcome ... but what brand were they?

Thanks. I've often installed oil-resistant (yellow) thread tape to the nipples to make vacuum bleeding more efficient; it prevents the MitiVac from sucking air past the threads.

Did the bleeders ever come with dust caps or were they always exposed?

An exceptional convention to attend; thanks for all the great photos.

Is there a current source for the smaller sized engine harness clips as shown? Cars sells an XL-sized version but the retaining prongs are too large for the fender holes.

Seeking a Delco battery topper with the yellow "Delco" wording on each cap; thanks much!

Thanks--on mine they appear to be #12 sheetmetal screws, and as you said two long ones with spacers and two short ones. But it's odd to use such fasteners with the bumper's captive (square) nuts. I also had difficulty getting my rear bumper replated. The sheer size of the bumper posed challenges for the plating shop in terms of chrome coverage. I had hoped to get the areas around the taillights to have full (quality) chrome coverage, even though they didn't necessarily leave the factory this way.

Anyone know the size and spec length for the taillight assy to bumper bolts on a '65? There are 4 per lamp assy, but I don't know if they're all the same length. I had some spacers in the parts bag so I'm thinking these bolts are at least 1" long. Thanks much

A DIY mechanic for years but a newbie to the GM400 transmission; thought this was the best forum for this question: -- Before transmission is fully warmed I'll be at a traffic light (in drive) and when I hit the gas the trans will pretend like it's in neutral for ~2 sec and only then slam into drive (with rpms a little above idle). I'm then able to drive normally. I never touch the shift lever and it will engage any gear at either a standstill or while underway; no upshift or downshift issues. Issue goes away when fully warm. Correct fluid level--planning to test modulator for fluid leakage and vacuum input / leaks tonight. Is this symptomatic of any common problem? Thanks much ...

For my own education why wouldn't adjustment of the idle air flow or mixture screws not compensate for this issue?

Oops, sorry... it's for a 1965 diff.

Through what bolt hole is the posi tag supposed to be mounted? I can never see this on pictures of used (supposedly posi) rear-ends; thanks !

Sent my clock to the Machesney Park Instrument Services for a quartz rebuild. Upon return it was losing 20-minutes a day; so much for their QA testing. I sent it back and they returned it so quickly that they couldn't have tested it for more than a day. Sure enough it's still losing time, and I can see the seconds hand actually slowing in spots. Anyone recommend--from personal experience--another shop that can rebuild these clocks?

PM sent; thanks.

Seeking a very nice underdash tissue box from the early-mid 60s. Has tri-shield on right side. Thanks much ...