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Nick57

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  1. Its a tight fit but once you get under the seat up to your wrist from the back you can move your hand enough around in there. I did it twice in my car, once when I bought it and it wouldn't move and then 10 years later when I had to take the seat out to replace the carpet. I got it to the position I wanted and never moved it after the first time.
  2. I have twice, I disconnected the cables from transmission and hooked a cordless drill to them to get the seat up where I could get to the bolts. -Nick
  3. It is a b262 I actually plan to put it on my 34 Ford. When I bought the car I thought it was a factory intake since it was painted black but I took it home an looked closer and it was aluminum. Someone actually ground off the Edelbrock logo. IMG_1648 by mrmineo1, on Flickr
  4. That's why I bought a parts riviera for the motor. Also it had an Edelbrock dual quad intake on it for that price.
  5. Just double check my memory. I think it was the 5x7 for the rear. Measurements for the speakers are in the link. Also I did have to file a couple of the holes just a little to get it all to fit over the posts on the rear speaker grill. http://garytayman.com/dvc.htm
  6. Just for a price reference I bought a really rusty running driving 63 riviera with a 66 401 engine and trans in it last year for 2000. It was for sale for 3 or 4 months before I even went to go look at it and I am glad I put on safety glasses before I drove it. I ended up buying it to put the engine in my 34 Ford and selling most of the parts off the car. I chose this option after pricing out rebuilding another 401 I had pulled out of a junkyard 20 years ago (300 for the engine and trans). As some one who had multiple Nailheads and 390 Cadillac engines in my way holding to them if you don't want them takes up some real estate in the shop.
  7. Taymen electrical is who did the radio in my 64 Riv and my 60 Cadillac and I couldn't be happier with his work. The only pain about the 64 is the fade knob is a stand alone unit so you have to use the tone to do both. It's no big deal but you have to turn the radio on and off real quick to access the menu its something to know going in. I used these speakers in my car. Front https://garytayman.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=124 Rear https://garytayman.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=125
  8. I am having the original master cylinder sleeved. I am regretting getting rid of the old wheel cylinders that came with the car as I would have got them sleeved as well. Whitepost restorations are doing it for 165 which I thought was pretty good considering a new one was 65.00 and I have gone through three "new" master cylinders that don't seem to have been built very well. No air either I checked again just for fun a 3rd time.
  9. Hoses are replaced the only thing not new is the booster, brake pedal pad, hardware kit and drums. Stainless lines, new hoses, shoes, wheel cylinders, master cylinder. I blew compressed air through the new lines before installing them just to confirm they are clear. I wondered if the rear wheel cylinder bleeder screws were different than the front and that was the reason,they are a different wrench size. I was actually just out working on it, I put a set of different rear shoes on the car that seemed to fit way better. They were from NAPA and in an ancient box that said made in USA so I am hopeful that this will help fix things. I also noticed that there were some grooves in the pads on the backing plates the shoes move on so I welded them up and ground them flat again hopefully that will help things along. If I keep getting lower pressure out of the back and the pedal problem continues I may pull all the lines to the rear and blow through them in case there was some contaminate in the stainless lines that didn't come out. Hopefully I didn't get a defective rear rubber line since the original was on it and actually worked fine.
  10. I have loosened the parking brake cable, I couldn't get my drums on with the new shoes they were so tight before. Went up my driveway in reverse 10 times this morning with a hard stop to adjust. It seems like they are in spec all wheels had similar temps when I finished my test drive didn't pull in either direction. Like I said I am used to a pedal that doesn't go down the whole way every time that being said the entire throw of the rivieras brake pedal I think is half that of my 60 Cadillac. I drove it around tonight just to get a feel for a similar GM car of the era.
  11. Long story short I did a rear brake job that immediately blew out a rear wheel cylinder and things snowballed. I replaced everything at this point but the booster, drums, and pedal pad. With new shoes and hydraulics I expected that the pedal would have less movement than before I did the job. The pedal feels the way it always did when stopping its just that it goes to the bottom of its swing. It stops the car fine. I have only driven it maybe a mile because there is no "pedal reserve" that I read about in the manual and am concerned in a panic stop I'd be in trouble. I did not cut the drums but wouldn't think that that would be the issue. I am on the 3rd master cylinder after two defective and am starting to think it could be the issue. I have triple checked for air and don't have any in the lines. This is not the first time I have completely rebuilt a brake system on an old car and have never had this kind of trouble before. One thing that my wife said was that it was harder to push the pedal down when bleeding the rear brakes than the front I couldn't confirm as she didn't want to open bleeders. I completely redid the AC system in this thing last summer and I am starting to think this is a harder job. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  12. Perfect thanks, that's the way I put them together but the adjuster just isn't contacting the star wheel and there is no real tension on it.
  13. Does someone have a picture of how the front brakes get put together on a 64. There isn't a picture in the service manual that I can find and I have never seen this pivoting hook things before on a car. It seems like someone previous put it together wrong as the adjuster doesn't contact the star wheel.
  14. Good Call on E-brake cable. Disconnected it and they slid right on. I may need a new set but am not sure have to go play with the adjuster. I don't think they are froze up. If I need a new set of those any suggestions on where to buy new ones if I can't adjust the problem out.
  15. This is not my first time replacing brake shoes after everything is back together I can barely get the drum on much less spin it. Bought a set of Centric shoes and they wont fit in the drum with the adjuster all the way in. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand that they like? Unless I start sanding these their never going to fit.
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