Nick57

I have to say that I put the ACC mass backing molded carpet in my riviera a few years ago and it fit great. It really fit very well almost locket it in place before I even started putting everything back in. I had not issues under the sill plates. I did have to have an interior shop add the binding at the top where your toes go in the front seat though. I used it because there was all of the original insulation in the car when I got it I figured the mass backing would just replace it and I wouldn't put all that water absorbent stuff back in.

This is a strange one. I had my pump rebuilt in my 64 by a local rebuilding company, all they do is steering pumps, gears and brake boosters they have been around for 40 years and they have done work for me before. I got it back and went through the normal bleeding procedure. I had my 6 year old turn the wheel back and forth while I put fluid in for ten minutes to make sure the air was out before I started it up. Never made a noise no "milkshake" fluid or anything like that. Went for a test drive and I hear power steering pump whine after its warmed up only when turning at rpm, while i'm driving down the road I can hear it just going thorough normal curves in the road. Hot or cold at idle it's silent and it works great all of the time. No leaks except out of the cap since of course its overfilled. I looked at the diagram in the manual and its pretty basic I don't know what would be making the whining noise as I thought that was always from air. Can these take forever to bleed and some air bubble is buried in the system? If anyone has ideas let me know. I'm about to swap it for another pump I have that worked when I took it off an other car and see what happens. Thanks, Nick

Yesterday after looking at it closer I was thinking of doing just that. Rubber looks to be in good condition with no cracks or obvious wear. Clean up the splines the gear goes in and put it back together. I had to replace the seals in my steering gear which is why I had it apart and was just considering changing it while in there. If the gear wasn't leaking I would have never even thought about doing it.

Here’s the pics. It has 45000 miles on it and is not modified.

If there are they are inside the column behind a plastic piece at the end of the column. I looked at a picture of a 65 and mine looks different from the one in this topic. Also I bought a coupler from Lares and it didn't have a ground wire on it anyone know who make one with the ground wire like the on in the pictures.

Does it not unbolt on the column side? Do I have to grind the rivets out on the car in a very tight space? Inquiring minds who want a fun weekend project want to know. Thanks, Nick

For reasons beyond my control I had to loosen a bolt that held the water crossover in place and of course it started leaking. Years ago I had an issue where I couldn't get that stupid o ring to seal that goes in the timing cover but finally did and it hasn't leaked since. I can get the crossover to head gaskets easily from fel-pro but the o ring part number comes up with nothing. Does any one know the size or part number in another brand? I have bought way to many timing sets over the years to get that O-Ring Felpro o-ring number is 10672 the gasket number is 11379

Is Rare Parts the only game in town? Mine has play and needs rebuilt or replaced but it seems they are the only ones around that do it. Also if you've sent one to rare parts how long does it usually take? -Nick

Its a tight fit but once you get under the seat up to your wrist from the back you can move your hand enough around in there. I did it twice in my car, once when I bought it and it wouldn't move and then 10 years later when I had to take the seat out to replace the carpet. I got it to the position I wanted and never moved it after the first time.

I have twice, I disconnected the cables from transmission and hooked a cordless drill to them to get the seat up where I could get to the bolts. -Nick

It is a b262 I actually plan to put it on my 34 Ford. When I bought the car I thought it was a factory intake since it was painted black but I took it home an looked closer and it was aluminum. Someone actually ground off the Edelbrock logo. IMG_1648 by mrmineo1, on Flickr

That's why I bought a parts riviera for the motor. Also it had an Edelbrock dual quad intake on it for that price.

Just double check my memory. I think it was the 5x7 for the rear. Measurements for the speakers are in the link. Also I did have to file a couple of the holes just a little to get it all to fit over the posts on the rear speaker grill. http://garytayman.com/dvc.htm

Just for a price reference I bought a really rusty running driving 63 riviera with a 66 401 engine and trans in it last year for 2000. It was for sale for 3 or 4 months before I even went to go look at it and I am glad I put on safety glasses before I drove it. I ended up buying it to put the engine in my 34 Ford and selling most of the parts off the car. I chose this option after pricing out rebuilding another 401 I had pulled out of a junkyard 20 years ago (300 for the engine and trans). As some one who had multiple Nailheads and 390 Cadillac engines in my way holding to them if you don't want them takes up some real estate in the shop.

Taymen electrical is who did the radio in my 64 Riv and my 60 Cadillac and I couldn't be happier with his work. The only pain about the 64 is the fade knob is a stand alone unit so you have to use the tone to do both. It's no big deal but you have to turn the radio on and off real quick to access the menu its something to know going in. I used these speakers in my car. Front https://garytayman.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=124 Rear https://garytayman.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=125