Hans3

Thanks for these great photos. So your new ducts require 6 in. clamps and not 4 in. (the case on my '47)? I sourced all my radiator coolant hose clamps from CARS. They are the Tower design; the required sizes were common for Buicks into the 60s, and CARS had a sufficient selection.

Were the clamps for the large (~4 inch) heater and fresh air ducts originally double wire clamps, screw cheese-grater-style, tower clamps, Corbins, or were clamps not used? Seeking insight for late 40s models, and thank you.

To work properly don't these (typically brass) threaded sleeves work only with tubing that's equally soft? Or can the brass still crush mild steel?

Thanks for the informative replies; I stand corrected on the flare type and NPT fitting size. This is for a '47 Super. Only thing I'm not clear on is why a threaded sleeve is needed to connect the 5/16 steel brake line (that goes to pump via 1/8 NPT) to the new flexible rubber hose. Don't the brake line and flex hose fitting both have 1/2-20 thread? Also out of curiosity why is (oil resistant) pipe tape a no-no for the pump connection? Will fuel break it down?

Always liked the sound of imperial. Anyway attached are photos of my supply tube end-fitting that connects to the rubber hose and the fuel pump inlet. Supply line does not appear to have a double flare. Based on above comments regarding the fuel pump inlet threads, I presume the fuel pump will need a 1/4 (?) male NPT to 1/2-20 female adapter?

Thanks for the replies. Attached is a photo from a BAT auction 1946 car with the setup I believe my '47 is supposed to have. My new rubber hose is straight from Cars and applicable to multiple years'. I suspect, but will need to verify, that the tubing from this hose to the pump is 5/16 imperial brake tubing. This photo obscures the fitting connection at the pump, unfortunately. Note the fuel supply tube retaining clip on the crankcase blowby tube.

It's a pump supply hose obtained from CARS. I believe the left fitting connects to the supply line flare. My fuel pump is missing the OEM threaded inlet fitting, so I'm not sure what it looks like.

Having trouble sourcing a fitting to connect the flexible rubber supply hose to the fuel pump (1947). I'm not sure what an original (male/male?) fitting looks like but the threads should be 1/2-20. The question is whether one end is supposed to be an AN fitting or are both straight-cut threads? If it's an AN then it corresponds to a 5AN size, which is proving tough to find. Hose pic attached for reference; thank you much.

Dust cover spring picture attached. I used the pictured pliers to grab and pull out the retaining nail. The main lock cylinder could be removed only by first removing the large circlip at the keyhole end.

Lock # is 9144 from a '47 Sedanette. Edge of chrome where lock cylinder is to edge of threaded shaft is 2.39". The edge of shaft where pin goes in to edge of threaded shaft is 1.785".

Does anyone know what pin or tab to depress to remove the lock cylinder from this trunk handle? On its way to the chrome platers.

Can anyone link or attach the paint color codes applicable to dashboards and door caps for the 40-50-70 series closed cars? I need to source the charcoal grey dashboard paint and taupe-brown door paint. Exterior paint codes are readily available on a web search but not so much those for the interior.

JB Weld to act as makeshift cable cap shims?

Problem is likely not the neutral / reverse switch. Don't throw parts and $$$$$ at the problem roulette-style. My reverse light issue was from an old Buss fuse that passed +12V but not enough current to illuminate the bulbs. Replaced the fuse and good to go. It's a simple circuit end-to-end and easy to diagnose with a multimeter.

What's the modern equivalent of the body seam sealer that lines the floor metal under the insulating tar paper (1st-gen)? It has the consistency of dried silly putty but was likely pliable back in the day. On same topic, is there a modern floor liner substitute with similar appearance to tar paper? Not a fan of the look or price of space shuttle-grade Dynamat.

If it's API SM, SN, SP, etc. gasoline engine rated you're fine. Otherwise, find another diesel-compatible oil that has the gas engine API cert on the back.

This would depend upon where your aftermarket water temp gauge is placed in the cooling circuit. I don't want to suggest a number because of this factor and the likelihood of others stating that it's OK for the motor to run past that point. On this topic, it's worthwhile for everyone to check the resistance / age of their viscous fan coupling. They're so cheap (and easy to replace) that there's no reason not to replace one that's questionable.

12 minutes is too long for the cold lamp to extinguish. Unless idling at below 32F ambient, the engine should sufficiently warm-up to extinguish that light in ~ 5 minutes of driving (or even less).

Oil-resistant teflon tape on the bleed nipple threads greatly improves vacuum bleeding efficiency. On a related subject, what causes excessive pedal travel on a front disc brake conversion 1st-gen? System is fully vacuum bled with aforementioned bleed nipple mod. I heard that the disc brake conversions have extra travel but can't envision why.

How does one remove the ball vent, if necessary? What were your felt sources?

Can a worn gear interface in a Speedostat factory cruise control (if equipped) trigger the same speedo calibration issues as a worn tranny drive?

Even with a new o-ring the dipstick tube can leak with the same timing and "evidence" characteristics as the OP's case. A fix is to wrap oil-resistant pipe tape under the o-ring to increase its OD while providing a better ID seal. Only wrap around ~ 2-3 times else it will be too difficult to reinsert.

There are many shops that perform quality pot metal chroming, Advanced Plating is not the only option. Google searches for "forum" and "pot metal plating" may uncover one even closer to your location. I personally like Paul's Chrome in PA. The lead time for work at Advanced is on the long side, in part because of their shop fire catch-up work (and not their first big fire either).

Removed all of mine with ease ... no torch required. Try using two jam nuts or a jam nut and locknut (on the bottom). Then try with a mini combo wrench (6-point). On reassembly just use short bolts w/anti-seize for the next time.

Who is this "one major" headliner supplier?