drhach

I've found even if dust is not a concern, a good cotton sheet (or cotton something) will wick away humidity and help to prevent rust.

I'll second that it depends on what you're looking for. A spring is a spring whether it's air or coil. High quality shocks are where you get a lot of bang for your buck. The system you're showing has shocks that are only adjustable for rebound. If I had $1,800 to spend on suspension, I'd buy OEM springs and spend the rest on more adjustable shocks. This assumes that you're looking for ride quality and better handling. You also don't have to give up real estate for a pump system.

Check out "Dynaflow banjo" on youtube. It might give you a good idea for your leftover parts Is that the scarebird disc brake kit?

Thanks Roger. Yes, I'm familiar with torque tubes. Your description makes perfect sense. Keep up the good work.

Hi Roger, so is that ball effectively a universal joint that is used on newer driveshafts? Would the driveshaft hard mount to the output flange? Is there something similar at the differential end?

Working in my garage is intended to be a "distraction".

How do the 66 and under Wildcats compare size wise to the Electras? I know he 62's were effectively Lesabres.

What a beauty.

Check your measurements again. You just need one piston?

That's great news. PM sent. egards, Dan

I had to look up "humecting". For us common folk, that means "get it wet" :). Great work as always Roger.

Thanks, I'll check them out.

Hi everybody, I'm in the process of cleaning my engine bay. I'm going to make some new splash guards for my fender wells using the old ones as templates. Does anyone know if the clips that hold these on are still available? I'm not above using the newer style plastic press in pieces, but I'm only two short on these metals ones. So If I can get them, I would prefer to go that route. Thanks, Dan

I've wondered if there's some way to retrofit a center section from an Impala in there. You can still get them and they actually make an upgrade kit

Did you replace the connector or keep it?

You can get at it with the pan off. Might as well replace the connector while you're in there. You can still buy then new. You have to pinch the connecter from inside the to release the forks.

Didn't this all start with you checking the oil?

Yes, they were mentioned earlier in the thread.

So where do you get the good replacement covers?

Time for a thread resurrection. I'm having the exact same issue on my 62. I want to install a Pertronix unit while I have the distributor out. Pertronix calls for .010-.060 at either end of the play region in the distributor. However, I have about .2 as well. So, there's no way I'll get that. I ordered some shims, but I', concerned about over shimming it and then have an oil pump issue. Any thoughts? The engine block is at the machinist right now getting redone. So I can't put the distributor in to check.

Did you ever solve this? I just climbed in to the same boat. I thought it might be chopped up felt soaked in oil.

I like your sandblaster cleaning method better than mine. Scotch-brite, gloves and a bucket of degreaser. Talk about tredious.

They also seem to be the only game in town.

It seems that if you have a thickness spec for the steels and the friction disks and you have a specified count, you can come up with the required overall thickness. There's you spec. Is there a +/- as well?