drhach

Hello Mr. Zimmermann, I'm curious to know what it costs to get those small parts chrome plated. Would you mind sharing that? Chrome plating in the U.S. is very expensive. Although, I've never asked about parts that small.

Yes I was. I tried watching that other show (Gas Monkey) and couldn't even make it through one episode. Complete garbage.

Applying the loosening torque when tightening will not yield the same results.

Plastic does last forever, it just keeps breaking in to smaller pieces. It looks like you've already started that process.

I recently stumbled across that show. The guy seems quite talented and reasonably modest. It's almost as if he's just really in to cars.

Someone knew enough to weld aluminum and take an engine apart but somehow didn't connect the dots that this was a horrible idea.

I realised last night that I have a reproduction parts book at home. It goes 1940-1976. It dawned on me that all cam choices should be in there. There were a lot. One thing that baffles me was that some of the part numbers on the team buick website were not in the parts book. Anyway, for 1963 they do list two different cams for a 2 or a 4 barrel. No mention is made of high or low compression. However, the book also lists a cam as being for 62-64, "all engines" and it's different from the other two part numbers. T huh is isnt confusing at all.

I think the OP's engine code showed it as a "Standard" rather than low compression. I would take that to mean that it had the same compression ratio as the 4 barrel.

So, some years would be different but within a given year's product line, they would be identical? In other words, in 1963, there was one cam for all engine configurations?

I'm kind of new to this stuff. Did Buick ever have more than one cam choice for this era? It seems that carburetion and compression ratio were the changes.

What's next?

I know, that's the difference. I looked for this kind of stuff on other forums and it was all based on opinion. Here it seems, people say, "I did this and here's what happened", versus "I had a friend who knew a guy who....."

Great discussion, thanks for the feedback. It sounds like the dual quad is at best a marginal improvement with the addition of a lot of labor to get it right. That coupled with the redheaded step child that the guy was selling, I passed on the sale. I think I'll pursue a 4 barrel for when the time comes to rebuild the engine. I appreciate all of the "real world" testimony. So often, you hear second or third hand opinions based on no experience. Regards, Dan

Thanks Carbking. There really is no "correct" appearance for a 1962 Dual Quad since they didn't exist from the factory. My main issue is up front cost compared to the follow on cost of getting it all to work properly. "Form follows function" and my primary concern is everything working properly. Time of course is another factor that extends greatly as you deviate from OEM. What I am gathering is that I probably wouldn't want to use either of these carbs. So, right there, I would be on the hook for two more. Additionally, there is the issue of kickdown for a dynaflow (which also didn't exist in 1962 for this setup). I suspect that his setup is not worth $2,500 and that probably another $1,000 (at least) would have to go in to it. Of course that still leaves the issue of the kickdown linkage. I think I just talked myself out if it.

Thanks again. Yes, the ultimate plan is to up the compression, port the heads, etc. I'm not looking for a maniac engine. Just something well built and fun. The engine has 136K on it now. It actually runs very well. But I know it's day is coming. So, I wanted to be a little preemptive and start gathering some of the longer lead time items. I'm not dead set on a dual setup. I know there are some perfectly good 4 barrel setups for a lot less time and money.

Thanks Rivnut. I'm starting to collect parts for the eventual rebuild of my 1962 401 Lesabre (I know, not a Riviera). The engine has a 2 barrel at the moment and I was thinking about some mild performance stuff. That was why "correct" didn't matter. I would also be hooking it up to my 62 Dynaflow. The guy is asking ~2,500 for the manifold, carbs and air cleaner. I'm gathering that I might spend close to that again to get it functional.

A couple of pictures

Hi guys, I have a line on a dual quad intake with mismatched (but present) carbs and the correct air cleaner. I'm curious what the going rate may be for these. I have no doubt that the carbs need to be gone through. He believes the rear carb is 62-63 and front one 67. He also has the linkage assembly. I've seen a couple on ebay. There's a bare manifold for $750, a manifold with carbs for $1,850, a refurbished unit with no air cleaner for $3,600. None of them are flying off the shelves. I'm not worried about "correctness", so that carbs aren't an issue for me. Any input would be appreciated. Regards, Dan

That's odd, it sold and he relisted it? Maybe the bidder wasn't serious. Or he was the high bidder :).

The second one should be a lot easier 😄

Greetings from Northern Illinois. Not much I can add other than to welcome you. That's a neat looking car.

There actually are two companies selling speedo cable drivers. Both of them are well over $300. I'm thinking I can make my own for much less than that. I just bought an Arduino controller board for $12, I need to get a DC motor and figure out some way to mount a sensor for a square wave output. I may have bought the wrong size gear. I checked my speed against a GPS and it was pretty good. The repair manual actually has a table telling you what size gear to use based on rear end ratio. I talked to the guy I bought the gear from (bestoffercounts). He suggested a few checks I could do. Mainly validating that the core spins freely and the bushing on the back of the speedo isn't sticking. So that and a bore scope are my next steps.

That's a great suggestion. I think harbor freight sells a pretty cheap model. I'm certainly driving it anyway. I just want to get all systems operational. I'm cheap enough and enough of a nerd that I'm looking in to making a speed sensor that would run the speedo cable.

Here are pictures. Obviously after the gear was destroyed. I believe it is the driven gear. Yes, it looked like the ones above. I would imagine the only way to get to the drive gear is to disassemble the transmission. I'm going to try to stick my finger in there and see if I can feel anything on the internal gear. Before I installed this, I turned the speedometer cable with a cordless drill. There was no noise and the needle moved smoothly for the 13 miles that the speedometer worked.

I'm wondering if anyone could provide some insight in to this. I got this 1962 Lesabre about 1-1/2 years ago. The speedometer didn't work. It wasn't high on the priority list so I didn't really bother with it until this Summer. There was no drive gear in the transmission. I ordered one and installed it. The speedometer worked perfectly for 13.2 miles and then quit. I pulled the gear to check it out and the teethe are almost completely gone. I'm sure not going to order another $100 gear until I can sort this out. The speedometer moved smoothly and I couldn't feely any resistance in the cable. I Also recently had the trans pan cleaned out. he said he didn't find any debris in there. Anyone?