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About 64Rivvy

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  1. I second the kit from Mr. G. I bought an interior kit and it's been great as I redo the interior. Each bag is individually labeled and numbered tying back to a master list of where the screws go. Most are indistinguishable from original hardware though not all are perfect reproductions.
  2. Mine was plugged just like that when I got the car and didnt appear to cause issues. I'm just now completing a full rebuild and replacement of the heat and ac system so will be hooking it back up soon.
  3. Not too big of a deal. Just wasnt sure if there was any sort of science or reason to have that loop there. Figured there must be a reason. Thanks.
  4. Thanks guys. I was actually able.to find one after reaching out to a parts guy I know like RivNut suggested. Not as cheap but already blasted and primed so no extra work for me should have thought to reach out first. More proof the interwebs are making me stupid.
  5. Hey guys. One other question on this. The service manual shows the upper 3/4 hose coming off the firewall with a small loop. Is there a reason that loop is needed? I tried to replicate it but my heater hose just kinks and collapses when I try to make a loop that tight. Sorry just trying to get everything set back up as oem as possible. Thank you. I included a pic of the diagram I'm referring to. Raul
  6. Currently putting on a new thermostat inlet housing and noticed my fuel filter bracket is missing. It's just hanging there. Does anyone reproduce this part or know where I could find one. It's for a 64 AC car. Not seeing any from CARS, opgi, or any on ebay. Thanks. Raul
  7. Thank you for clarifying. Now that I can be certain its the 4700 series that makes a lot of other diagrams I was referencing much more useful as well.
  8. Thanks guys. I printed out diagram 11-37. Between that and these pictures I am golden. Diagram 11-37 threw me off when I saw it in the manual bc it says it's for then4700 series which is a wildcat and riviera is supposed to be 4800 but that def looks the closest to my ac system setup. Thank you all for the help. Will post some pics when I get it mounted. Raul
  9. Thanks guys. I have looked through the diagrams in the shop manual but have not seen any illustrations that show exactly where the valve is mounted on a 64 and I'm not finding any existing holes where I though it would go on the pass inner fenderwell. To my knowledge the 64 used a manual gate valve that is currently about impossible to find. There is one on ebay now for 250 and I'm not paying that . I am using a manual valve from a 70s bronco that works fine and I fabricated a bracket to mount it to the original oem bracket.
  10. Does anyone have a pic of the factory correct mounting location for the heater control valve on a 64? I just fabricated a bracket to mount a new manual control valve to the oem bracket. However, I dont think where it was previously mounted was correct and I want to make sure to put it in the correct location. Thanks, Raul
  11. I just removed mine and used dynamat style insulation there instead. Its superior to the old batting insulation and also provides additional sound deadening on the tunnel. I actually put down stinger roadkill insulation (similar to dynamat but better amd cheaper) in my entire interior when I recently redid the upholstery and carpeting. I also put it behind the dash and on the underside of the dash cover panel and on the panel behind the rear seats. If you want to stick with something similar to that original batting, lowes and home depot sells similar batting insulation with foil on one.side. its sold near the plumbing pipe insulation in like 10 foot rolls. I put some of that on my firewall and behind the desk where the roadkill wouldn't fit or.didnt make sense. Raul
  12. Thanks. My bracket mounts dont seem to come down that low on the bushings and I think a lot of the rubber on them has disintegrated . They stop more like at the top of the rubber bushings versus coming down and sitting on them. I'm going to find a piece of rubber hose or something to slide over them to fatten them up for a better fit with the brackets. I dont think anyone reproduces the lower condenser rubber mounts that I'm aware of. Raul
  13. Hey everyone. Finally getting some time to work on the Riviera again. I'm installing a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, fan shroud, transmission cooling lines, and condenser. Does anyone have any pictures or details on how the lower condenser brackets properly mount to the rubber mounts/bushings on the lower frame crossmember? Cant tell if they just sort of rest on the rubber mounts, or if the brackets actually get bolted on there somehow. Not sure if I may be missing any original large mounting washers. Right now I have it bolted at the top and just sort of sitting on the rubber mounts at the bottom but seems way to loose and unsecured. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Raul
  14. I am currently using Stinger Roadkill to insulate all my floors, doors and any large panels prone to vibration. It is comprable to Dynamat Extreme but is not quite as good, but pretty darn close. I've done cars with Dynamat extreme and the difference in vibration, sound and temp is significant versus no or stock deadeners. I figured the Stinger is a good compromise on price to insulate and sound deaden the Riviera considering how much of it is needed to do it properly. If you are willing to cut and fit yourself, you can get a much better product for much less than the pre-cute stuff from OPGI etc. I can post some pics of what it looks like so far if you're interested. The problem with the asphalt/tar based products is that many of them eventually fail by losing their adhesive properties and many of them also pop off fumes in the driving area. I know some people have had good luck with them, but I would stay away from them and the cheaper deadeners that are asphalt based. It's not a job you want to have to do twice or have to deal with the car smelling inside that cabin. Ed - I'm not sure about bookmarking, but what I do for that is I follow the thread and then just turn the notifications off. Lets me go back and find it later by listing out threads I'm following.
  15. One idea is to try to call Rubber the Right Way or one of the places that specialize in rubber and seals for classics and they may know where to get them or at least what size they are.