Bloo

Me, although I doubt I could get my Studebaker prepped for that in time. It's fine for short tours, but is going to need quite a bit of work to get ready for a long tour like that. I've put quite a bit of effort into figuring out where slow roads are, especially with an eye toward staying off of the interstate. Unfortunately there are some areas that just have one way thanks to terrain, and that way is the interstate. Offhand, Utah and Western South Dakota are fairly problematic, and they are not the only ones. I know some great roads, but if you are going transcontinental you have to be able to connect them. Most of the routes I know of currently are probably more appropriate for 30s cars than brass.

Hang around a while and it will be painfully obvious why PM is not available immediately. Welcome to the forum!

Because you don't have to change a bunch of stuff. Put back together and drive. Yes. That's actually a good thing. The chances of taking standard pistons out of one block, putting in another, having 6 usable bores and 6 usable pistons isn't very good. Doable if so, but unlikely, and I am assuming Ford wasn't using select fit parts at that time. If they were, the odds are even worse. .030 bore job and a new set of rings oughta do it. Correct. You would have to approach that with a careful look, because who knows, but I have never heard of saving them. I wouldn't count on the rings. Everything else should be OK to swap over if it really was rebuilt by someone competent. You won't know until you get it all apart.

This is the thread I believe @Dave39MD and I were talking about.

My guess is the Chevy has the tie rods in the front and the Buick in the back, but I don't have either here to look at.

Hah. I don't know. Someone in here will. I have seen those little round spoke weights for sale somewhere but I can't remember where. If you default to using wire I would suggest pure lead wire (as used for fishing weight) rather than solder. Pure lead is quite a bit heavier than typical solder.

A common complaint of any 2 speed, but as far as I know there were no serious problems with those. The cast iron transmission on the other hand.... ugh. Never again. I'd really rather have a stick with overdrive than any of the automatics, I'm just not sure I could drive it. On the 60-62s my knee gets caught between the steering wheel and the door making it extremely awkward to clutch. From the pictures, that 59 looks like it has more space.

Does anyone know if the Washington State transponder works? It is also "EZ-Pass" (unlike California).

There was no C-6 back then, not until the 1966 model year, although it would have been a much better option. A 3 speed automatic back then would be a cast iron cruise-o-matic. This one does have a ford-o-matic (look at the shift quadrant). I'm just not sure which ford-o-matic it would have been in 1959. If it's the aluminum 2-speed, I'd much rather have that than a cruise-o-matic. I'd also take a Y block over an early FE hands down.

I remember that thread. i could still use some AC K-7. I don't need NOS like Ed. I believe the change in numbering was 1936/1937.

I am more willing to go with your 1957 theory, but I just don't know. Dei's Canadian Statesman had the red lettering too, although they were full wheel covers. I have never seen a bathtub that didn't have the red letters. Export maybe? The car in the picture has Chile plates.

No, I don't Go there. See the A for yourself. 99% this is a scam. The only thing missing here is an oil rig. Protect yourself. Get on a plane and go look at it. My guess is you will be unable to arrange it.

1990 1.6L version here. Sorry I don't have a pic handy. Way over 300K miles. I'm currently replacing it's differential with one from a 1.8L car.

I owned a 51 Nash Statesman, bought from the original owner, and it had the red lettered hubcaps everyone expects to see on a bathtub Nash. Every other 51 Nash I have seen also had red lettered hubcaps. Some have full wheel covers, but still the red lettering. Here is an example from the web (not my Nash). Here is a Canadian built one posted by forum member Dei, who has since passed away.

2 posts lifts are bolted to the floor. Some 4 post lifts are too, but 4 post lifts that do not have to be attached to the floor exist. Some can even be rolled around.

I'd take the Hudson Jet, just because I have never had one. There was a non-running one in my neighborhood when I was a kid, and I was fascinated with it for some reason. I've had an Airflyte. They are great cars that don't get near enough credit. They get a lot of hate from people who never owned one. People who did own one generally have the opposite opinion. In the late 80s, my 51 Statesman drew attention wherever it went. EVERYBODY at the supermarket seemed to have a Nash story. When I got it, I thought I was unique because I was the second owner of this almost 40 year old car. Then I met another local Airflyte owner. He was also the second owner of his Nash. This happened a few more times. They stay in the same family for generations because the people who drove them know how good they are, and no one else is interested at all. I'll bet it's still true today and you could probably find an Airflyte to buy from the original owner (or his/her children or grandchildren) even today without trying too hard. They are 70+ years old now.... The Airflyte sets a high bar for the little Jet to beat, and I doubt it will. Most of the Hudson people seem to hate them. Still, it came from the same engineering department that stepdowns and the 308s came from. How bad could it be? Most of the Jet examples posted lately are automatics. I'd want a stick and overdrive.

No hoist works for every job. The different types have advantages and disadvantages, big advantages and disadvantages. The most useful type of hoist BY FAR is an offset 2-post floor mounted hoist. There is a reason you will see several of them in a typical service shop for every one four post hoist. The reason to get an offset 2-post hoist rather than a symmetrical one is that it is impossible to open a door once the blocks are set. It is a problem even on offset hoists, but not as big of a problem. The typical thing to do with either type is to get out with the car in neutral and roll it into position to set the blocks. We have had threads like this before, and 2-post doesn't get any love around this forum. It is because you have to get down on your knees about 4 times, maybe more if you are inexperienced, just to set the blocks on one car. It is a valid point. I used to do it all day long, and it just kills my knees now. I feel their pain... literally. I'd still get a 2-post hoist. There are some jobs you can't do on a 2-post hoist. That is why many shops have one four poster in addition to all the 2-posters. The difference is the car sits on it's wheels. for instance, it is necessary for exhaust work, alignment, and suspension work. The trouble is for most jobs the hoist will be EXTREMELY in your way. You will find that your hand is too big and that your arm is too short and does not have enough joints in it to reach whatever it is you are trying to reach. How old the car is has an effect, as really old cars have most of the mechanical stuff right down the center, and the engines tend to be inline. That makes it less bad. With the Corvette, I think you will hate it. On anything much newer than the Corvette, or anything front wheel drive, you will still be working on the floor with jack stands about 3/4 of the time. The "bring your own jack" accessory @EmTee mentioned I am not sure I have ever seen. A common setup on 4 post hoists is a pneumatic jack setup you can roll back and forth. You DEFINITELY want this if you get a 4-post. In fact you want two of them, which is the most common setup. With 2 you can lift both ends of the car at the same time. These have movable blocks that let you widen it out and lift from points blocked by the part of the hoist you drive on. These are optional when you are shopping, but are not optional in real life. If you don't have a compressor, or yours is tiny, or has no tank, plan on getting a better one.

In 1912, "fore door" meant a car with front doors. Most cars did not have front doors at that time, although quite a few had rear doors if they had a rear tonneau (rear seat area).

It is quite possible to make a nice wire harness with electrical tape. It doesn't need to be a gooey mess. You would be taping a whole harness that is not mounted in the car. Back in the bad old days before all these fancy restoration supplies were readily available, I made several. Most were "piggyback" harnesses to add some non-original feature, but I have also repaired and re-taped entire harnesses. If anyone wants to try it, post back and I'll have some hints. You need a helper, it's not a one person job. There is probably no good reason to do it this way when you can just buy the correct materials, but it can be done.

Nobody could actually do it for any distance because of the condition of the roads. Of course the manufacturers knew that. My guess is there was a high speed gearset available that most of the cars did not have. After all, the way most drivers judged a car in those days was by it's ability to pull hills without downshifting. Lower gears make a big difference, and an awful lot of antique cars have them no matter how powerful or how expensive.

The "waffle clutch" used in some series 40 Buicks has a reputation for being unreliable. I have been hearing stories of people using a much newer Jeep clutch as a replacement to get rid of the "waffle clutch". By some coincidence it fits. I have not done this myself, so I don't know which Jeep. @Ben Bruce aka First Born said 1995 Cherokee, and he would know.

It sounds like bump steer. Make your tie rods exactly the same length. They probably aren't. Maintain that when you set the toe. if the steering wheel isn't centered, don't worry about that too much until the problem is solved.

Victor Reinz is the way to go, and also the only thing I know of resembling the factory gaskets for an FE. When I replaced the cam in my 390 I had a very difficult time finding any.

Yes the seats are out of something else, and it has already been mentioned that the nose is early and not original. I didn't even know you could do that, as the 73 (and later) Pinto is an entirely new car under the skin. That wrong nose makes a better looking car. Remembering Pinto seats, I don't think I would complain too much about that either.

This was before stretch bolts I think, and regardless blown head gaskets were still common at about every 80K miles back in 1984. The Mitsubishi 2.6 got a lot of shade thrown by dealership mechanics, but has balance shafts and will run smooth as glass when it is sorted out, (unlike the bulletproof but bucking and snorting 1984 Chrysler carbureted 2.2).