Bloo

I would expect a 49 olds to have a vacuum pump for the wipers. Be sure you are connected directly to the manifold and not to the pump.

If there are breather filters on the draft tube or the oil filler tube (maybe both?), make sure they are clean and not restricted.

There is also Penrite. Restoration Supply (of California) have both Lubriplate and Penrite.

Why not more Mini bearings? I agree those were probably babbitt rods that got converted. Another approach might be to get some later rods that would probably fit the Bobs bearings.

I doubt it In my experience once these are bent, they are toast. Hopefully somebody here has one.

There are at least 3 different ways to make that measurement, and if any aftermarket parts are involved, they won't agree with each other. Getting one of these block mounted starters to run quietly can give you gray hair, and might be impossible. If you adjust it the way @EmTee said, and make sure the bracket @old-tank and @NTX5467 mentioned is there, it won't break. If you are lucky, it might even be quiet. A little bit of blue loctite on the bolt threads wouldn't hurt either. The shims to set the drive gear clearance are a commonly available part. Any Oreilly, Autozone, Napa, etc. should have a packet of aftermarket shims.

Follow the 2 leads in MCHinson's post and you probably won't be disappointed. I'm not surprised you can't find rebuilt, but a core or maybe a usable used engine shouldn't be too tough. What do you mean by dual intake? 2 barrel carburetor, or dual carburetor? If dual carburetor, be sure to hang on to those parts. They are pricey, and if memory serves, would have come on a 248 originally in about 1940 or 41. The 263 began around 1950(?). Also any unbroken exhaust manifold is a good thing to have.

It's not a dumb question. In fact, the only reason I know about $800 6V Belgian jumper packs being sold in France, or what might go into making one, is because I asked the same questions you did.

Thanks. I'm still looking into this. I have found a local shop that has a laser welder. I need to get the part cleaned up, and see if it can be done, otherwise it's TIG.

They have existing tires from other makers, and also tires of their own design (Auburn). The Auburns tend to be old sizes that have no equivalent in modern tires. In all cases the whitewalls are put on after the fact. They claim to have a barrier layer that solves the problem. My one Auburn remains white. Your mileage may vary.

I have one Diamondback Auburn here I bought for a spare. It is at least 3 years old and has not turned brown.

I highly doubt it's the same uF value, and it probably should be higher, but there's nothing to stop you from trying. See if it gets rid of the noise or not. It's value is not critical like an ignition condenser. You could put any uF value of capacitor there and nothing bad would happen. It should have a fairly high voltage rating though, like an ignition condenser does. Welcome to the forum!

As far as I know, that stuff is banned, however you can get a can of "canned air" for dusting out computer keyboards, etc, and if you use it with the can upside down, liquid refrigerant will come out and it does the same thing as that old electronic freon "freeze mist" did.

I don't know, but I am pretty sure a 1948 Eight has a 2 barrel carburetor. Maybe trouble on one side? Maybe a vacuum leak?

I believe those have independent front suspension and Bendix floating anchor hydraulic brakes, so better than a lot of 1935 cars. 65 sounds too fast, but I can still see wanting overdrive.

No. It's just better because you can crank longer. An electrically larger battery does take longer to charge, so if you ever do run it down real low, you would be well advised to put a charger on real soon when you get home rather than waiting for the generator to charge it all the way back up.

Probably. 1935 Ford wire wheels were commonly put on during the war. I seem to recall there is some difference about how a wire wheel contacts the hub, but these 40s Ford wheels probably either bolt on or almost bolt on. Maybe a spacer is needed?

Mitchell does make a kit for open driveline cars, which the Oldsmobile is.

Well you should be able to get in into neutral then I think? (check the top rail and get that on the middle notch). About that gear, does it feel seized on whatever it slides on? Or is it just not wanting to engage a gear? It looks like it probably uses that big gear for both first and reverse. Is it partially engaged with another gear?

I think it's literally a crap collector. All the loose parts you don't want to see go there.

It looks an awful lot like a 1913 Studebaker SA-25. Headlights look different than what I have seen though. There's no sidelights, and I think they were standard equipment. Most have a box on the running board. On the other hand, everything else about it looks like an SA-25.

Is this the Packard Request? Probably not. I think it was a 1955. Anyone remember?

If it's working for you, great. My 6v stuff works great. I see no reason to change. As for the dash lights, they are probably intentionally dim so your eyes won't adjust to them and you can see better at night. Later on, the manufacturers put a dimmer in, and you could run them brighter if you wanted to. The older folks all still seemed to run the dash lights so dim you could barely tell they were on. The idea of not making your eyes adjust to over-bright gauges seems to be forgotten in recent years. You see a lot of bright white and orange scales in newer models.

Maybe you could disconnect that fork from the rail in order to get the rail back into the neutral position?