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This mostly sounds OK to me except the white lithium grease. It turns to a concrete-like substance when it gets old. I don't use it at all anymore. Almost anything else is better. They still make Vaseline. If you want to use some other kind of grease, I would suggest something synthetic that might be more stable over time. If you don't drive a lot you might have the same set of points for years. Any antifreeze is OK unless it foams up, the color means nothing in most cases. The color is dye and there is no standard. Foaming is a common problem in open systems with water pumps. If it foams up, get some Zerex G-05 instead. That might help. I don't know why the artificial ice. What they are really going for there is pure water, no minerals to contaminate the plates. I'm not sure why artificial ice would qualify. Reverse Osmosis or Distilled water is fine. It's a good idea for the radiator too, to dilute the antifreeze to whatever mix you intend to use. You don't really need zddp in a car that old because the valve spring pressures were so low. It can't hurt I guess as long as you don't overdo it.

I don't think I would try epoxy, I would probably try soft solder(with an iron) before that. Probably neither one would have much strength. The trouble is once you contaminate it with epoxy, or solder, or brass, or silver, if it doesn't work out it makes welding impossible. I'm pretty good with oxyacetylene, but this scares me a little. It's so thin. It's also going to do a lot of heat damage even if I get the welding part right. TIG is probably the only realistic option (other than maybe laser welding), but TIG likes nice pure prefect metal for good results and this clearly isn't. I am also at just as big of a loss where I might take it for TIG welding.

Be sure there's vacuum to it and the hose isn't leaking. In addition to the shift problem, bad ones usually feed a bunch of transmission fluid to the engine and it makes a bunch of white smoke out the exhaust. I can't help but wonder if the hose on yours is disconnected or damaged. This one seems to have an electrical solenoid implemented. I'm not sure why that is. Since there is a repair kit listed in @joe_padavano's link, it may be rebuildable. That is probably the best option if so. A bad modulator was never considered a big deal to fix back in the day, and it probably isn't a big deal now. They do generally need adjustment after replacement. On newer modulators, the adjustment is a screw up inside the vacuum fitting. I'm not sure how that one in the picture adjusts. You'll probably have to have the service manual to figure that out. What you are adjusting is the part throttle upshift speeds (miles per hour). There will be specs in the manual.

From what I have seen in the past, there isn't a lot of information about decoding Canadian Fisher tags. Somebody probably has the info but I don't know who. I don't know how the oil filter would give you any clue whether it is a splasher or not. Anyhow Chevy splashers are not really splashers in the traditional sense, at least not past the mid 30s. They called them "low pressure". You see there's this row of squirt guns in the side of the oil pan aimed at the bearings.... A stamped number would probably do more good than that casting number. To see if it is a splasher look for a little triangular plate just above the oil pan rail on the driver's side of the engine. If it has that, it is a splasher. The original engine would have been a 216 splasher for sure. 235 splashers didn't appear in passenger cars until the 1950 Powerglide, and full pressure oiling did not appear until the 1953 Powerglide. If you aren't getting answers, you might try over on https://vccachat.org . Those guys know almost everything, but Canadian info still seems sparse. At some point you will need better pictures, and probably the stamped engine number. I don't personally have the books to decode it. Any of these engines can have an oil filter. Generally speaking, 216s have a side cover that extends up around the spark plugs, and 235s do not (there are exceptions). Generally full pressure engines have a 4 bolt valve cover and splashers have a 2 bolt valve cover, a glaring exception being the 1953 Powerglide engine. All 216s are splashers. 235s can be either. A 261 cubic inch version exists, used from the mid 50s forward in big trucks and Canadian Pontiacs. They are full pressure and most (probably all) have 4 bolt valve covers. Speaking of oil filters, the truck version of the 261 has a full flow oil filter, externally mounted, with hoses. Thanks to the Canadian Pontiacs, there are a bunch of 261s in Canada, and if the engine is a replacement you can't rule it out.

It probably uses a copper oxide rectifier. This is a trickle charger (2 amps or less). Larger chargers of the time used a Tungar bulb. Not quite a vacuum tube, but something along those lines. Copper oxide rectifiers have a fairly low junction voltage and were used in battery chargers into relatively modern times, even after silicon diodes were available. Selenium rectifiers could probably work, but are fairly lossy and wouldn't be a great choice to charge a 6 or 12 volt battery. You would be wasting a lot of power and dissipating a lot of heat in the rectifier.

Sand bending is going to be necessary for tight bends. Make sure the sand stays tight, keep checking as you bend. Use something bender-like with a semi-circular grroove to support the outside of the tubing as you bend. I have done this with Bundyflex and copper, but the principle should hold for any tubing. Some materials are just easier to bend than others. It may take a couple of tries. This is not a smooth process. If you need a radius tighter than the tightest die on a good bender, it is probably the only way. Good luck.

This.^^ Black is a desirable color, and color changed cars just never look as good as the original, except maybe on rotisserie restorations. The old color shows up in little places everywhere. It also comes through every rock chip. The car will be less desirable repainted if you decide you don't want it after all. No Rambler will ever be mistaken for a hearse. You could build a hearse on a Rambler chassis and still no one would believe it.

Were they close to the same size? I have always suspected that must happen when people choose a radial that is quite a bit wider than the original tires, and that happens a lot due to the sizes that are available to buy. When I changed the 36 Pontiac over to radials, I was able to hit the width pretty close, only about 1/2" wider. I meant to make a side by side comparison but I forgot to until a couple of days later. Honestly I can't tell the difference parking. It is manual steering, so you want to be moving a little to steer easy, but that isn't new with the radials.

70 Marauder owner here. Yep, that emblem matches the 70 Marauder center caps. The center cap does not look like that. They are very shallow, about 3/4 the height of a Magnum 500 center cap. Spring clips hold them in, and the hole in the wheel they go in is smaller than the hole in a magnum 500 wheel. I would post a pic if I could, but my last 2 original center caps were stolen in a parking lot a few years ago. As @The 55er noted, that is a gas cap. 69-70 Marauders have the gas cap under a door, so it isn't for one of those. You're looking for some Mercury from that era with an exposed gas cap. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

Nothing beats a properly inflated tubeless radial for reliability. Nothing.

That is not the famously difficult-to-adjust pressure plate Pontiac was using in the mid 30s. It is a diaphragm clutch, and I'm not certain it is adjustable. If it is, the idea would be to have all the "fingers" at exactly the same height while bolted to the flywheel with a precision spacer the thickness of a new disc inserted where the disc would normally be. Is there anything in the shop manual about it? You might check with these guys: https://brakeandequipment.com/machine-shop/

If car is 6V, and you are using a normal looking canister type 6V coil as a replacement, the type used on later 6V cars up through 1955 or so, do not use a resistor. If a resistor remains in place, bypass it. 6V coils that use ballast resistors exist, but to the best of my knowledge are all strange form factors, like coils for Ford products with "crab" distributors, Buick "mailbox" coils, the coils with the output post on the side used on some Dodge Brothers cars, etc. I hope to be proven wrong on this point but have not been for several decades now. For any normal cylindrical 6V coil you can buy in a parts store, do not use a resistor. On a 6V car you could probably use a 12V coil intended for use with a resistor, and just not use the resistor. These coils ran on about 7 or 8 volts, not far off from what a 6 volt coil runs at when the battery is full and the generator is charging. There is no good reason to do this as long as 6V coils remain readily available, but it would probably work. On a 12V car, you have 2 choices. You can run a 12V coil intended for use with a resistor (but then you must use a resistor), or you can run a 12V coil meant for use without a resistor. For a 12V coil that uses a resistor, almost any coil from a 12V American "big three" car from the mid 50s forward should work. Chrysler's coil is a good choice because Chrysler used ballast resistors long after most other 12V American cars had switched to resistor wires, and the matching Chrysler 1 Ohm (approximately) resistor is available through almost any parts store. If you are using some resistor for another coil, like maybe one that came with the car, make sure you have about 7 or 8 Volts measured between the coil supply post and ground with a full battery, the engine running, and the generator charging. For a 12V coil that does not use a resistor, a Bosch aftermarket "Blue Coil" may be a good choice. You'll probably want to paint it.

This is very good advice.^^

Although, it might just be a tube carrying clean air through the exhaust gases in the exhaust manifold (to warm the clean air) rather than a proper choke stove. If it *is* just a piece of steel tubing traveling through the hot exhaust gases, then removing it might leave 2 holes into the exhaust in the manifold you would need to plug. They wouldn't be vacuum. They would be exhaust leaks. As @EmTee already mentioned, there's no vacuum. The tiny bit of vacuum it originally had was supplied from the carburetor end to help move clean hot air up the tube.

Look a bit closer. It looks like the tilt might be a little off, in other words the top corner might be a little out. Is that just camera distortion? Maybe it would be possible to still get it mostly lined up?

In the mid 1990s a friend sealed up all the spoke nipples on his MG with silicone and put tubeless tires on it. He still has it and they still hold air, of course it is probably not the same set of tires after all this time. It has been completely reliable and has never even had a flat. Would I do that? No, probably not. I cringe at the idea of sealing spoke nipples with silicone, but the track record is hard to argue with. Based on my past experience with tube type tires, I can't imagine running that long on inner tubes without tire trouble.

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately I pretty much exhausted local options before I posted this. I do know someone who does a lot of cylinder head work. I'll give him a call on Monday and see if he can do it. Unfortunately he is about 3 hours away. It might be worth the drive to finally get this done. Otherwise I guess it's neo magnets and hope I don't miss anything.

Nitrocellulose Lacquer. Often referred to as "Duco" in the 30s (a DuPont trademark). I don't understand this one, and I am not sure we have it on US cars. It is very hard to guess what might have been done over the years for repairs. It was popular to use Nitrocellulose Lacquer for repairs even if the car was painted with something else, because the paint is thin and it blends well. In later years Acrylic Lacquer was substituted for Nitrocellulose Lacquer. In the 1930s, sometimes fenders only were painted with Enamel on otherwise Lacquered cars. Through the 1950s or so, sometimes the whole car was painted in Enamel. This would have been some form of Alkyd Enamel, and probably varied a lot in chemistry. DuPont Dulux (unrelated to the current Dulux products in the UK) is one example of an Alkyd enamel from the period. Before Nitrocellulose lacquer, cars were built up with layers of pigment mixed in some sort of binder and then varnished. It was very shiny, and not very durable at all. You are unlikely to run into any surviving varnish jobs at all, let alone good enough to patch up.

Does it have shock absorbers? As I understand it, cars without shocks often didn't want the spring leaves greased because they relied on the drag for a little bit of damping. Graphite grease on spring leaves isn't used much anymore, having been replaced by plastic buttons or liners in newer springs. Graphite grease as used in the 30s for leaf springs had a very high percentage of graphite. The 1936 Pontiac shop manual says "Graphite grease is number 2-1/2 cup grease to which has been added 40% - 50% graphite by weight". The only company I am aware of still making something even similar to that is Penrite. Other graphite greases I have seen seem to be ordinary Lithium grease with a small percentage of graphite added as coloring or a marketing gimmick. They do not seem to be intended as a substitute for 1930s leaf spring grease. Read the datasheet. Penrite products are available in the US from Restoration Supply in California.

Thanks for posting this. As much trouble as you had locating one, I can imagine the next guy who needs one having to make it from scratch.

I was able to check March-April and September-October of 1959. Nothing found. I didn't have a single 1967 issue. Someone will have these.

Maybe some purple (small screws) Loctite would be appropriate here. It would probably remain draggy after you break it by adjusting it and still stay set. Well, that is assuming the screw is advancing from vibration while the throttle is open. If it is jumping threads due to damage as someone else suggested then it probably wouldn't work, but it is worth a try.

I've never seen anything like that but I have set up Ford pinions (and others). Bearing preload is checked and set by how much the bearings drag, and as such this has to be a very low reading torque wrench. I don't know if it would be useful for anything other than it's intended purpose. I guess it would depend on whether those marks on the scale are standard units of torque of just some service-manual-specific numbers. I use a tiny beam-type torque wrench for this, marked in very low numbers of inch pounds.

The second one is HCCA, so I imagine the Atlanta Region chapter hosted a national tour (for pre-1916 cars) although, it could have been a regional tour. Either way it would have been promoted in the Horseless Carriage Gazette in 1967. I might have some 1967 Gazettes. I will look later. Since one plaque is HCCA, maybe the other one is too, so it would be worth checking 1959 Gazettes. My Gazette collection for the late 50s is sorely lacking so I don't think I will be able to check for that one.

Thank you for posting it!