Bloo

I think all "vintage" tire makers are subsidiaries of Coker in some way or another, except Diamondback (and Blockley). If you get any information to the contrary, please post it.

Yep.

Barn Find! How much will it cost to restore?

Several Fisher manuals are online here, including the 26-31 edition : http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

You will probably have to change some things to get the wood in. Who made the Reo bodies, Reo? I am working on a Pontiac (Fisher) and I am told they assembled the wooden doors on jigs, nailed the metal covering around the jamb areas, and then crimped the skin on last. On cars in the late 20s and early 30s, Fisher had you drilling holes to access screws and then patching afterward with steel and lead. Uncrimping the skin is inadvisable. Some people advocate splitting the corners of the jamb area open, and then tacking that back together afterward. Are you going to remove all the wood? Fisher allowed splicing some parts with splines. They said to never splice a lock pillar but I think I am gonna do it anyway, probably with biscuits, as that will have more strength than Fisher's method. In theory this will save me from splitting the corners. I will probably have to build a tool to do it, as there is not room to get a biscuit joiner in there. I have made the bottom boards, and started on the curved portion of the hinge pillar (I am working on back doors). This project got shelved last spring , but I hope to start again soon. I am mostly gathering information at this point. Let us know what you come up with.

Looking for 1936 Pontiac wheels. These are 6-lug, Chevrolet bolt pattern, 16 inch, Artillery style, for 600:16 tires. Like this one.

I need to get this done for my 1936 Pontiac. Aftermarket reflectors are not really an option for me because the originals are contoured. From all the old threads I could find, here and in other forums, it seems to be a debate between resilvering and Uvira's Aluminum-Pyrex process. There are a lot of dead links to potential resilvering companies. Who still resilvers reflectors in 2017? Have you had it done lately, and were you happy with the results? What about Uvira? Has anyone had that done recently? How did it go? For those of you who have your cars judged, Are Uvira reflectors the same color to the eye as silver ones? Can the judges tell the difference and do they care? For those of you who drive your cars a lot, how do Uvira reflectors hold up out in the world? What happens when they get wet? What about silver? Do you have to clean it up much? Has it worn through? Thank you for any advice.

Just curious, as I have wondered about this a lot. Were any of those silver surfaces you tested actual silver, or evaporated aluminum (as used by Uvira and also many modern cars)? I ask because in other (probably unscientific) tests I have read, Chrome, Nickel, polished Brass, and "chrome paint" all performed miserably compared to Silver. If white outperforms real Silver, that is a big deal. I read in some other forum that white paint outperformed any other sort of paint on the reflectors of taillights, signals, etc. I have not verified it. In the 70s and 80s, when most cars had some sort of silver colored or mirrored reflector in the small lights, many Italian cars used white. Those lights were a masterstroke of dim, but there were probably other factors.... Getting the facts out there would be a good thing. If you know any more about this, please tell.

You can also zinc plate at home with ordinary household chemicals, a piece of zinc, and a power supply. Look around on the net, I think it is vinegar, sugar, and epsom salt. An old used trim tab off of a boat can supply the zinc. This does not give professional results, but is fine for corrosion resistance, and with a little babysitting and care can produce almost professional results. No dangerous chemicals.

This actually helps!

The reason we go on about resilvering is that it is the only thing that helps (other than chasing the voltage drops out of your wiring). Putting bigger bulbs in doesn't help unless the reflectors are real good AND the charging system can handle it. There is no quick and dirty fix. LED bulbs generally are not able to position the hot spot close enough to where it needs to be for a headlight bulb replacement to focus correctly. Maybe they will get it right someday. LEDs do draw far less current, and it could be a good thing to replace the OTHER bulbs (taillights etc) to leave a little more current available for the headlights. There probably isn't really enough current available for the stock bulbs, let alone something bigger. The trouble is if you exceed the generator's output capacity, the system voltage instantly drops from whatever it is while charging (probably over 7 volts) to 6.3 volts (the natural voltage of a 6 volt battery) and goes down from there as the battery discharges. Meanwhile, the bulb brightness does not drop off in a linear fashion. It drops really fast. A tenth of a volt is a difference you can see. At half voltage, the bulb wont be half brightness, it might not even be lit. The closest thing to quick and dirty fix I can think of goes something like this: 1) Get a sealed beam kit. 2) Get some top quality H4 (Cibie' or Marchal e-code) lens-reflector assemblies to fit the sealed beam mounts, 3) Get the biggest clear glass H4 bulbs that your generator can keep up with (probably 15 or 25 watt, maybe 35). They make small H4 bulbs like that for 6 volt motorcycles. THAT will get you more light on the same current. It will also make much better use of the available light.. It wont look right though. Good luck!

THIS! Never, ever, ever use a stainless nut on a stainless bolt unless you are forced. If you are forced, use a LOT of anti-sieze. Stainless on mild steel is ok.

NAPA probably if you are in the US. Most parts stores should have or be able to get them. In some cases you can buy them as individual parts with the little "fuse link" tag. Fueslink wire is also available as bulk wire. The whole idea of these is they burn up instead of the harness. A car battery is enough energy to make one hell of a fire. A fuselink keeps it isolated to one spot, and the special non-flammable insulation keeps the melted wire contained.

They used the fuselink wire for reasons of reliability. They can take a temporary overload, years of vibration, etc. better than a fuse. If they are intact, it is best by far to leave them alone. If they are bad, best to replace with more fuselink wire. Fuselinks are typically 2 sizes (four numbers) smaller than the wire they are protecting, for example a #10 wire would have a #14 fuseink.

There was a thread not long ago... I also recently saw some chrome that came out of Queen City Plating of Mukilteo WA. It was very nice.

Canadian Pontiacs often did use a lot of Chevrolet parts. There is a forum here: http://canadianponcho.activeboard.com Welcome!

Yes. By varying the size of your wire shunt, you can increase the maximum current (full scale) reading to whatever you want it to be. A +-20 Amp ammeter can become +-30 Amp for instance.

29NF is not the same as 29. The "F" as I am sure you already guessed, is reversed post layout like on "24F" or "27F" (for Ford products). If your battery tray is narrower but longer than a group 27, then it is 29NF. If I remember correctly, a plain 29 is the same size as a 31 (truck-bus-diesel) battery. It is as long as a 29NF, but much wider, more like the width of a 27. More than likely, a 29 will not fit where a 29NF belongs.

Most likely it is too high.

HAHA how did i miss that? Actually it is a whole 54 Chevy. I think I see it parked in front of the Chrysler.

You have gotta set that by the book for whatever car the carb came off of. TIny changes in height do affect the mixture, but there isnt enough range of "ok" to use float height as an adjustment. If it is too low you will run out of gas going around corners. If it is too high, it runs over. Is that a plastic float? If so it might be shot. I don't know what the internals of this carb look like exactly, but that valve needs to shut OFF. No gas can leak around it. Theres probably a gasket washer on the threaded part that screws into the body. Is it sealing? On carbs where the float, valve, and hinge are all on the same casting i used to blow through the fuel inlet. When I would turn it upside down so that it was closed with the weight of the float on it, it needed to shut OFF HARD. The height needs to be set to whatever the book says. I cant stress this enough. There is also probably a spec for "float drop" , or how low the float can hang. This keeps the float from hitting on the bowl when it goes all the way down. The height makes slight changes in mixture, but mainly determines whether it runs over or not. The jets are used for determining the mixture. Yes. It should stall. This is a 99.9 percent sure sign the float bowl is still running over. If the engine keeps running, the engine is getting gas from something besides the idle jet while idling. Some carbs have a diaphragm-type power valve that can pop. Nearly always though, it is just gas running out the main jet because the float level is too high or the float valve is not shutting off.

Nah... I like Pontiacs.

Xander: Do you still have the DeSoto? I used to have one just like that (but a different color).

They don't adjust the mixture screw for you. That has to be done on the car more or less like I posted earlier. They do adjust the float, or at least they should. Nobody who buys a rebuilt carb is expected to do that because it requires taking the carb apart, measuring carefully, and bending stuff.