Bloo

If it goes down to 300 shut, thats good enough isnt it? You were trying to get to 450, right? It only has to be open a little. It is not commonly talked about, but the fuel that comes out of the idle jets is already mixed with air. Some cars will idle slowly with the throttle shut. 300 rpm is close to stalled, and the idle jets would bring it a tiny bit slower if they were properly set. I suggest you have a closer look at the bushings. If you can wiggle, and get the throttle further shut, this could be the issue. The throttle plate catches on the bore, and doesn't let it shut the rest of the way. You wouldn't notice this on the bench because there is no return spring attached.

"Ground" on these isn't ground. It is a contact for the Autostart. I couldn't find a good picture of a 5807 (original regulator) that you could read the terminals on. As I recall, the 4 terminal regulator is not just missing a terminal, it is completely redesigned and does not quite work the same way. It is very likely the terminals are in a different order. Here are some things that might provide clues, even though they don't quite answer what you asked http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=5229 http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume XVII Issue 5 (May-June 1999).pdf

Don't be in a big rush to take it apart. There are 2 things to look at here, with regards to the heat riser: 1) The stuff in this thread, in other words the thermal spring and flapper. If the shaft moves freely, and the flapper hasn't broken off, you wont have to take it apart. When cold, the flapper should be held so the exhaust goes up by the carb, then back down. The weight will be way up high, as high as it can go. The spring will have about a half turn of tension or so holding it this way. As the spring relaxes with heat, the weight should fall almost 90 degrees toward the engine block. Thats really all there is to it. If you can accomplish that without taking it apart, you don't have to take it apart. 2) The pipe that heats the fuel. On most or maybe all flathead Pontiacs, the heat riser is actually heating a big piece of pipe. You would think that those manifolds are only cast iron. Not quite. There is a piece of sheetmetal pipe, like exhaust tubing, under the carb. It has an inner diameter about like the carb throat, and is vertical, directly underneath the carb. The air/fuel from the carb flows through the pipe on its way to the intake valves. There is exhaust on the outside of the pipe. This is what the heat riser flapper blows exhaust on. If this pipe leaks, the car will run horrible, because exhaust will leak into the intake manifold. If you take the carb off and look down the hole in the manifold, you are looking down the center of this pipe. Look for holes. You cant see the flapper from the carb hole, because the flapper is in the exhaust. Let us know how it goes.

Ok, the 7.60 is the section width. That means the measurement at the widest point, measured on the rim width that the tire was designed on. The tire does not have to actually go on the rim width it is designed on. Tire manufacturers publish an acceptable range for each tire they make. 7.60 * 0.9 (90 percent aspect ratio) = 6.84 Inch sidewall height 6.84 + 6.84 + 15 = 28.68 7.60-15 is then 7.6 inches wide and 28.68 inches tall Actual sizes usually vary from the calcualtions a little, but this will be close. Now 275/55R15: 275mm * 0.03937 (convert to inches) = 10.83 Inches wide 10.83 * 0.55 (55 percent aspect ratio) = 5.96 Inch sidewall height 5.96 + 5.96 + 15 = 26.92 275/55R15 is then 10.83 inches wide and 26.92 inches tall And for the 275/50R15 from the chart D Yaros saw: 10.83 * 0.5 (50 percent aspect ratio) = 5.41 Inch sidewall height 5.41 + 5.41 + 15 = 25.82 275/50R15 is then 10.83 inches wide and 25.82 inches tall

EMF 30 maybe? about 1910?

Theres a wheelwright in Vancouver??!! Wow, I had no idea. Thanks for posting that.

Tire rack made a mistake. That probably wouldn't even fit on the rim. As with most substitutions for old tires, the higher the middle number (aspect ratio) the better. You probably wont find over 80, though the original may have been as much as 90. You may have to live with 75. At the same height, 75 series tires tires are gonna be quite a bit wider, and may or may not hit.

You could be right, but as I recall old Motor and Chilton manuals always cautioned you to look for this and respect it. Im pretty sure I have worked on a 3.00:1 nine inch Ford, but I cant prove it.....

Hunting vs Non-Hunting? I have heard of it. Rings and pinions break in, and develop wear patterns. In the old days, when the manufacturing was less perfect, they used to start out tight and run fairly hot when brand new as the high spots got rubbed down. If the number of teeth are evenly divisible, the same tooth on the ring hits the same tooth on the pinion every time. This is part of the wear pattern, and if you do not respect it, the gears will have to break in all over again, with the resultant extra wear. If the number of teeth are not evenly divisible, you didn't need to worry about that particular thing. On a used ring and pinion however, if you take things apart it is advisable to check the contact pattern and the backlash before taking it apart, and put it back the way it was, rather than to the settings in the manual. I suspect this last thing is what aussiecowboy was asking about. The thickness of that gasket might set the pinion depth.

1/4 wont make any difference you can notice. If the gasket and the manifold have 4 holes, and your spacer is open, that could have some effect. I don't have a manual for that car handy, but low settings like that are almost always in gear if the car is an automatic. I'm guessing this has Dynaflow. Length of choke stove pipe wont make any difference. Leakage through slightly worn throttle shafts can make some cars run a bit high, but probably you can still come close. Badly worn throttle shafts will cause the butterflies to catch under return spring pressure, and not be closed all the way even though the throttle stop is all the way out. Try backing the stop screw all the way out, plus a little, then jiggle the lever on the throttle shaft. Jiggle it front to back with regards to the car. Check to be sure your secondary throttle plates are closing all the way. They should be. All idle air should be coming past the primary plates (or through the idle jets along with the fuel). Is the vacuum advance on the distributor connected to the correct port? Let us know how it goes.

These sound like initial settings when assembling a carb. The final settings will be different. The caveat is the throttle should never be quite all the way closed. Look for vacuum leaks and verify your ignition timing.

Or domestic, if you happen to be in Canada.

That is a 1961-1965 dodge "sweptline" truck chassis. http://www.sweptline.com/hist/61-64.html Some info about the bigger trucks is here: http://www.sweptline.com/hist/bigtrucks.html Im guessing the bus body was locally built. I have never seen a school bus body in the USA that looks like that. Diesel would be unusual for that time. It is almost certainly gasoline powered.

Please let us know how the Sta-Lube works out, especially how it shifts.

Words to live by.......

Are you sure it isn't a rivet? It holds one end of the variable resistor in place.

This is SO TRUE. It is doubly true on those older models. Don't adjust anything. Not yet. On those old cars the codes are a CLUE, nothing more. If this is what I think it is, an olds 307 with a Rochester Dualjet carb and GM CCC electronic engine control, there is a wire somewhere you can hook a dwell meter (set to 6 cylinder scale) and see the mixture adjusting itself. You should see the mixture running about 30 degrees at idle and cruise. This is 50% on a duty cycle meter if you are using one of those instead of a dwellmeter. IIRC it needs to be completely stuck at one end of the range or the other to set the code. About 6 degrees and not moving is what stuck looks like at one end of the scale. I don't remember what stuck is at the other end. Probably about 53. For the moment I don't remember which is rich and which is lean. I think 6 degrees is stuck lean. To really run right it should be at 30 degrees and moving around a little bit. As NTX5467 said, vacuum leaks are common. This system wont tolerate any vacuum leaks. None. You will have to fix them all. Over-rich due to a sunk carb float is another extremely common problem. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

I'm not going to get into the Pertronix good / Pertronix bad debate, but I wouldn't want it on there while trying to troubleshoot a pre-existing problem. I agree with Grimy about what to do next. Good luck!

The spring is bi-metal and moves with temperature, The spring holds the heat. riser "on" while the engine is cold. The preload usually seems to be half a turn (wind it up about a half turn and hook it). In this position, the exhaust should be flowing up to heat the carb. As the spring gets warm from the exhaust heat, it relaxes and gets looser, allowing the heat riser to move to the open position, where the heat bypasses the area under the carb and goes right out the exhaust pipe. If the spring gets tighter with heat instead of looser, it is on upside down. Flip it over and try again. There should be a weight that holds the heat riser open when hot. It should stick straight up, with the weight at the highest point when cold. The weight should fall toward the block almost 90 degrees when the engine heats up and the spring relaxes. There could be a second spring, but if so it's only purpose is to prevent rattles. On my 1936, this is just a tiny coil spring with loops at the ends.

The 205-85-r16s look perfect. Do you live in Australia? When I was looking for 600-16 substitutes I ran across this size, but could not locate any in the US. They seem to be advertised everywhere in Australia. 195-85-r16 is only slightly shorter and might be worth considering also (if available).

This is the problem. Specials are already geared low enough almost every new Special owner complains about it. By putting on smaller diameter tires the problem gets even worse. Every "normal" modern size is smaller diameter, or way too wide. There may be some European-style truck tires that would do what you want if you can live with blackwall. If not, a call to Diamondback or Coker is in order.

An O2 sensor code ALMOST NEVER means a bad O2 sensor on cars of that vintage. It means that the reading the computer saw from the O2 sensor was not normal. This probably means the fuel mixture is out of range, either too rich or too lean. Since you found soot, probably too rich. Code 12 does mean no signal from the ignition. In plain English it means "engine not running". If I remember correctly, it will always be there. Good luck with your project!

Not on a Chevy of that vintage. 0 ohms is empty and 30 ohms is full. You are right there is always some resistance. That makes it tough to get the needle all the way to "e".

Short the sending unit wire to ground. Gauge should go to empty. If it doesn't, look further at the gauge. If it does, either the sending unit is bad, or the tank isn't grounded. Try grounding the tank. If that doesn't help, the sending unit is bad.