Bloo

Sounds fine to me. What really wears them out is running with no axis offset. The needle bearings, if they never move because the driveshaft runs perfectly straight (see the first example in Mike6024's illustration), will carve or pound little groves in the cross. Eventually this destroys the joint. Old oil-bath u-joints with plain bushings didn't care about this at all.

Its legal in Washington State. You guys really think RHD makes the car worth less in the USA? I doubt that. British car enthusiasts change them back to RHD here. I would expect a RHD version to be worth more, particularly if the manufacturer was in an RHD country.

I would start by taking the spark plugs out and squirting a little diesel, marvel mystery oil, or liquid wrench into the spark plug holes. The holes are over the valves, so you need to get the oil over to the other side of the motor where the pistons are. Liquid wrench might be the easiest because it has that little hose. Don't drop the hose in. Let it sit for a couple of days, and then try to turn it over with a wrench.

To the best of my knowledge, the reason you don't see many 318 swaps is the engine compartment is narrow and you have to cut the crap out of everything to get it in. Back in the day, v8 swaps in these cars always seemed to be smallblock Fords. I hear it fits a lot better. I agree with Rusty. You should keep the flathead 6. What does it have for a transmission? Fluid drive? There are quite a few of those still running that have never been overhauled. Good luck with your project and welcome!

Thanks, Thats good to know.

How many of you guys run YOM plates outside your home state? Has it ever been a problem?

Yeah, I never remove those screws unless I absolutely have to, no matter what Carter's documentation says. The first thing I would try to remove it: Grab it from the back side (if any is sticking through) and screw it on through the shaft.

When you get the remainder out of there you can go to ace hardware and compare the threads to a standard brass screw. They will either be the right pitch or they wont. If theres something real special about them, then there's probably spares in any carter carb from the same period. Loctite is a good idea on any screw in a position that could fall in your engine. I use purple on little screws like this. It is usually unnecessary on carters because the screws are staked in place.

Normally those are brass screws, smooshed on the opposite side so they cant come out. I don't think its special. Carbking would know.

The oldschool approach is to take it to a radiator shop. Yes, I know its almost impossible to find a radiator shop these days. It might be worth checking to see if your area still has one. Beemon's brazing approach works too but you need to fill the tank with something non-flammable (co2 or whatever).

A bore that had a broken ring in it is almost always unusable. There are almost always vertical grooves. In the unlikely event that the bores are usable, and are standard size, the only cheap way to do this is gonna be another set of pistons from a junk engine. If the pins are pressed (I think they are) then leave the rods from the junker on them. The piston you posted a picture of is unsaveable even with an unlimited budget. It's time to really scrutinize those bores. I will be shocked if it doesn't need boring. Good luck with the project!

I did a little looking. It turns out the whole mess including that divider thing on top and the test leads, etc is called a ts352/u. The meter (I think) is a me-9/u and the "g" is just a different contract or supplier or something. If you go and ask on the test equipment forum at antiqueradios.com, you will probably find some guys that used them in the military. Keep your pics fairly narrow (800px or less) because the software wont scale a picture over there. A flamesuit might be advisable. There is some information about the ts-352/u here: http://www.virhistory.com/navy/manuals/test-94200/dir-test-94200.4.1.pdf I don't know about a date for it. I'm sure it goes back a long way, but I doubt the 40s. Things stay the same a long time because once manuals are written around certain equipment, they don't want to rewrite them. It wouldn't surprise me at all if the government was still buying these meters in the 80s. Good luck.

Its an analog multimeter, for electrical testing. It is also known as a VOM. Its model number suggests military origins. Today, most of us use digital ones (DVM) for automotive work. The design with all the extra probe connections around the perimeter would suggest the 1930s or 1940s if it were civilian. I suspect it is much newer. The military changes slowly.

And polarize your generator before you try to start the car! The service manual will tell you how. As far as I know, All 6 volt sealed beam headlights are interchangeable. One possible part number is 6006.

I made one in the 80s. It is possible without special tooling. It was most likely some combination of sand bending and a torch. It probably wasn't perfect and may have required some tapping on the side as it bent. I did it on the back bench of a gas station, so there couldn't have been anything exotic. The tubing would have been real Bundyflex as thats what I used in those days for anything with difficult bends. Do you have an original one for a pattern? I would love to see a picture if you do. I didn't at the time, but that hole is only so big, and there just isn't any leeway on how tight that bend has to be.

Yes It causes confusion though because as far as I know, the fact that it is the same number is only a coincidence. We will wind up talking about both these numbers,14.7 (air pressure at sea level in PSI) and 14.7:1 (stoichiometric air/fuel ratio by weight) in just about any conversation about fuel mixture.

If what NTX says is true it wont. The stoichiometric point will read 14.7 no matter what. Don't put any faith in air/fuel ratio numbers from anything, especially ones derived from oxygen. The problem NTX pointed out is just the tip of the iceberg for calculating air/fuel ratio this way. Stoichiometric is a useful point to know for tuning. It is also a good place to run your idle and cruise mixtures. The car will run great. The maximum gas mileage point will be leaner. There are downsides to using it though. Maximum power is where the engine pulls the hardest, and the ratio needed varies a little by engine. Use a gauge like this as a relative measurement to show which way your changes went and how much. See if the engine makes more power. The actual number is useless. I cant stress this enough.

14.7 is for gasoline from the beginning of time. It is by weight, not by volume. Stoichiometric just means an even balance of air to fuel. If you are measuring oxygen, and you are richer than stoichiometric, there wont really be any. I would weld in the bung, up as close to the front as you can reasonably manage.

I used to always replace them until I discovered that the original bushings are often tighter than the replacements, even with a bunch of miles. I check pretty close before replacing now. If they're shot you will usually see visible thrust wear on one side of the bushing even before you measure. So... thats not oilite in GMs? What is it? Plain bronze? I rebuilt a 30s Buick starter that had steel on steel at the back and lubricated with an oil cup. Better not forget to oil that one. I haven't ran into too many like that.

I have done it, on starter bushings too. I wish I had heard about it years earlier. Before that, I would take a broken hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the bushing. Just before it cuts through I would catch the end with a sharp chisel and try to break it at the slot and roll it out of there. This works, but not near as well as it sounds. It takes much longer than the grease method too.

It's air. This stuff is near impossible to bleed. Once bled, Its wonderful. No more perishable corrosive stuff eating your cylinders. Try this. Pour some in a jar. Let it set a while, maybe even overnight. Look at it. Look at it real good. Clear? Good! Now pour some more fluid in the jar and look again. Get out your magnifying glass, or better yet your loupe. See those little things? those are BUBBLES. They aren't floating to the top very fast, are they? This is what happens when you pour more fluid in and then bleed. Those little tiny bubbles get bled back INTO the system. If you put this in a system, fill it as much as you can and let it set a long time. Overnight would be good. Next morning, gravity bleed if you can. If not, use a vacuum bleeder. Pumping it up and squirting it in the traditional manner is not going to work. When the reservoir gets close to empty, refill it and walk away. Come back later, much later. Maybe tomorrow. Bleed until you get low again. If you have to add fluid, walk away. The jar experiment will give you some idea how long it needs to sit after you add fluid. You want it to be clear for a long time before you attempt to bleed. The smallest bubbles seem to take the longest time to come out, and are the hardest to see. Once bled, and you have a good pedal, drive the car and hope it shakes any remaining air loose. One final quick bleed at each corner a day or two later may make it a little more solid. 30 years ago, Johnsen's was easier to bleed than some of the others (Sta-Lube, etc). I have no idea which one is best now, but the brand can make a big difference. This stuff is a giant pain, but a restored car really is the ideal use for it. Many of our cars don't even try to keep the outside air away from the fluid. Once its in there and bled, it lasts a long time, and doesn't sit there sucking water out of the air like DOT3/DOT4 does.

If you want something completely bulletproof in ethanol-laced gas, look for "SAE 30R9" rated fuel hose. Oreilly has it in little blisterpacks hanging out in the store. It doesnt say so on the package, but the package is made so you can open it and look. It is rather expensive. This is generally used with fuel-injection style (non-extruding) clamps. They also have clamps. I suspect this is complete overkill for the supply side of a mechanical fuel pump for a carburetor. This hose is intended for high pressure fuel injection systems.

Sounds healthy!

Well done!

I would have got real sick of that too. I bought Borg Warner ignition points recently, the 2 piece style. They were unbelievably cheaply made, and fit extremely loose around the pivot in the distributor. The distributor machine showed the timing jumping around about 10 degrees at random because of that loose pivot. Some off-brand NORS points.from ebay fixed it. Good parts are getting hard to find.