Bloo

In the block I guess? It must be convoluted and tiny. Why does the exhaust system have a bleeder?

Naugahyde comes from Naugas....

Taller ones are probably available.... Mind the ceiling......

A nice cachunk wouldn't be a bad thing. Some of them make a ringing bang-bang-bang that seems like it might split your eardrums. Although I have never disabled one myself, I can understand how a person would not be able to stand even one more bang. 20 years ago I saw many disabled in shops. Maybe this noise issue is ancient history by now. It certainly should be. I doubt you would be able to tell from a video.

This is exactly what I was talking about. Frank can quiet his while using it without disabling anything. This is what you want. Hopefully other owners will chime in.

One more thing, ask how the safeties work. On some older lifts you will always see them disabled because they make an ear-shattering noise as the lift is moving. Quiet safeties that still work would make the decision on brand for me.

All hoist types have different ways that they shine. For working on cars though, four posters don't let the axles hang. Great for fitting exhaust, some suspension work, etc. All that ramp metal is in the way for most other work. The axles and suspension are in the way, too. If you are working on cars on the hoist, and can only have one hoist, what you need is a two post hoist with the columns offset forward. Nothing else really comes close.

Wasn't the Cleveland a product of Chandler? Wikipedia thinks so, but their article seems to have issues. I am genuinely curious, because I tend to get Chalmers and Chandler confused, and always have to look up which one of the two was absorbed by Maxwell, and subsequently Chrysler (it was Chalmers) .

You must be thinking of Classic Wood. They are in NC In Addition to Cabnut (Canada) And Restorer32 (Pennsylvania) in this thread, the ones I am aware of (in no particular order): 1) David Entler (retired) 2) KC Wood Manufacturing - Bill Cartwright (Virginia) 540-789-8300 info@chevywood.com 3) Autowood Restoration - Jim Rodman (Indiana) 219-797-3775 4) Classic Wood (North Carolina) 336-691-1344 ricky@classicwoodproductsllc.com I suspect there was one other, but I can't find my notes. These sources were friendly and helpful, but just did not have patterns for my car. There were also quite a few customers in line ahead of me. I would suggest anyone interested contact them and find out what their current pricing, leadtime, and availability is. Any info I have is over a year old.

Those graphics are definitely the ones of the products grimy mentioned. That is a normal container type for car wax of the period. It is car wax from a Chevron/Standard station. It has to be. Pop the lid off. If the inside of the lid hasn't rusted and dropped flakes of rust into the wax, it is probably still usable. Maybe do it upside down or on its side, in the interest of not knocking anything loose.

Is there even a differential vent? If there isn't, and you have replaced leather seals with modern ones, you might need to add a vent.

It I have heard this (even though I never heard back from David Entler). Supposedly the bodies for the 1936 Chevrolet Master, all Pontiac, Buick Special, and small Olds were all the same. This can't really be true however. If you look at the back of a Chevrolet master, the area around the trunk is a completely different shape from any of the others. The back doors, however, really do look the same, but they probably aren't. I suspect there are minor differences in the door sheetmetal as well. I brought this possibility up with some of the kit suppliers, hoping to buy some individual pieces that would be close enough to modify. The parts were still years away, and there wasn't much interest in discussing it. That is a huge issue. It is so obvious when you have the car staring at you. I would have loved to have you rewood these doors, but I couldn't figure out how to reasonably get the whole car across the country to you. I was not aware of you when I was originally researching this, but I follow your threads now. Yes. What the cost is, however, is not easy to figure out, and you probably get to sit on it a few years waiting for wood. Fortunately for me I only have a couple of doors. The real answer, it seems, is "you get to do it yourself". There was a thread on here not long ago from some guy who had an Auburn that didn't even have sills. Wow. I wish him the best of luck.

Chistech: I hope this works out for you, a good source of wood is sorely needed! C.Carl: I am in Wenatchee. That Buick looks like an interesting project, it even looks like you have some solid chunks of wood to work with. Good luck with it! Here is what passes for "patterns" over at my house......

I think people are quite right to be leery of these cars. I was looking at a Pontiac that had bad (unusable) back doors. I attempted to price wood for the back doors and back doorposts, as the seller said the posts were bad too. I contacted every wood kit maker I could find mentioned here and elsewhere. By the time I bought the car, a whole month later, only one had called me back. Eventually they all did except one. All of them are booked up for a matter of years, about three years if I remember correctly. No one had patterns for this car. No one would even guess what the parts would cost. If you read threads here and on other sites catering to old wood bodied cars, it becomes clear that even if you could get someone to commit to making the parts, it could drag on for years before you get the parts. I talked to one gentleman on the forum here who could make wood if he had the car. He said if he had only the doors, there would be a good chance they wouldn't fit. I can certainly see why. The doors truly are wood, the metal is only a thin skin. He is in the eastern end of the country and I am in the Pacific Northwest, so taking the car there wasn't really doable. I do have woodworking tools. I bought some ash, and have started making the parts myself. I didn't want to do this, but I am pretty much committed now. The original wood was laying in slivers and sawdust in the bottom of one door, and entirely missing from the beltline down in the other. I have been collecting every picture I can find online of the wood inside of wooden Fisher doors of any sort, as there aren't any pictures of these exact doors. I think if you can deliver in a reasonable amount of time people will beat a path to your door. Lack of patterns for, well, basically everything is going to be a huge stumbling block. "Customer supplied wood" won't happen much. I suspect most people have sawdust just like I do.

It's called a "suction gun". If you know that exists, then you probably know what an absolute horror they were to use. I would have been elated to be told about a secret drain bolt on any car.... For the masochists among us, harbor freight still has them. https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html

Probably. Try double-clutching it. Try this: You're in high gear, and you want to go down a gear. Push in the clutch, pull the lever to neutral. Let the clutch back out in neutral. Stab the throttlle, suddenly, and give it a pretty good quick stab. Push the clutch back in, and shift from neutral to the lower gear. This needs to happen pretty fast, not speed-shift fast, but you don't have a lot of time to think, so plan ahead and try it. Keep in mind two things: 1) The shift from high to neutral and the shift from neutral to the lower gear are two distinct, separate motions. 2) when you stab the throttle, you need the engine rpm to go a little higher than it would be if you were already in the lower gear. Let us know how it goes.

Regarding scraping, that is done to make the bearing fit, not because the bearing looks funny. There were scraper tools for this. You put dykem blue on the surface and turn the crank over, then you take it apart and scrape down the shiny spots a little. Continue until you have an acceptable ammount of contact area (75%?), then re-shim the bearing to the correct clearance. Scraping doesn't sound like what you need. Not yet anyway. This^^

The dial indicator would be a good place to start. I suppose it could also be that the bores are out of line. If the crank proves to be straight, and will spin freely laying in the block, but tightens at too loose of clearance when you put the caps on this could be the case. Assuming that these are poured babbitt bearings, it might be fixable by old fashioned bearing scraping, if there is enough babbitt left. What about piston slap? Was the piston clearance looser on that bore? At least if it is piston slap it is relatively harmless. This block was just bored, right?

Um... which one? They make many products http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/ Don't you hate it when they do that? We live in a world where "liquid wrench", for instance, used to be a pretty competent diesel-like penetraing oil, and now they seem to make everything from beef jerky to warm socks. Similar for loctite. Once upon a time there were 5 common grades of loctite, mostly identifiable by color. Not anymore. I saw "Nikon" on something in the grocery checkout aisle the other day. I think it was a nylon laundry bag. "Hylomar" is, or was, a specific product. It is a sticky, sticky goo, and is an anaerobic sealer, like loctite... err... oops... that stuff you put on bolt threads to keep them from rusting and or coming loose. It was transparent but also blue. Similar products could also be transparent, but could be any color. If you look in any Italian shop manual form the late 70s or 80s (Alfa Romeo, Ferrari, Fiat, Maserati etc.) you will see them specifying "Hylomar" in all sorts of places. I think in the USA Permatex was the source for it, but I cant remember for sure. Hylomar's main purpose is sealing up aluminum on aluminum joints where gaskets are not used. Think about that little area on front cam cap of some overhead-cam engines that is not sealed by either the cam seal or the valve cover gasket. It works great, amazing in fact. You can use it with gaskets, too. The downside is it only seems to hold up about 30k miles on a difficult spot like a cam tower. Many of the things I used it on were coming apart in 30k anyway at valve adjustment time. There were some other similar products. Somewhere I have a huge tube of "Mopar" brand sealant I acquired from Dodge in the 90s. It looks, smells, feels and works like Hylomar. It is clear/red instead of clear/blue. This explains why I have not bought any for so long. This tube is so big it might become an heirloom. Longer-living Hylomar substitutes appeared in the 90s or perhaps earlier. Probably silicone-based, but not quite like normal RTV silicone. Honda had something called "Hondabond". It will seal that little no mans land on a cam bearing cap, and most other aluminum on aluminum machined joints basically forever. The aftermarket substitute for Hondabond in the USA is "Permatex Ultra Gray". It isn't really the quite the same stuff as Hondabond, but it works. Here is some Hylomar on aluminum:

Most of these old steering boxes have a designed in tight spot at the center. I would make sure it is full of lubricant and then adjust it. You will need the instructions for that particular steering box (and I don't have it). In most cases the adjustments have to be made in a particular order. Generally speaking a steering box should have no slop at the center. None. A little is a lot by the time it gets to the wheels. Bias tires will go every way except straight. The faster you go the worse it gets. The tight spot gives you a chance to hold it straight.

Ok, I think we all knew you didn't REALLY mean Goggomobil. I did anyway. But who can resist an opportunity to talk about Goggomobils? The Australians even got a convertible version. Just look at this thing. It's even cuter than a Crosley Hotshot.

Thanks! I followed that to an auction and there were several more pictures. Look at how much taller the metal part looks than edinmass's K-7. Apparently they accommodated the longer (hotter) insulator that way. Larry: here's the tip.

Thank you!

Ed: Thank you for posting the picture. I suspect it is the only one of an AC K-7 on the web. Any chance of a close up of one plug? How tall are they? Are they 13/16 hex?

I remember reading on some period publication, probably Dyke's Encyclopedia or maybe Audel's, about a machine used to "burn in" newly cast babbit bearings. The machine would spin the fresh engine with an electric motor until it spun freely. Sounds risky. I would want it to turn freely, if only barely.