tom61

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  1. If you like, there is a series/playlist on youtube by 'Old Crow's Classic Cars' with the complete dissasembly, assembly, study and how the OD works if your really want to understand and know everything about them.
  2. Coley, Wouldn't having the OD on while stopped on a hill be worst than having it in OD stopped on a level road? Also , what I've heard is that the bearings or gears get damaged because of the excessive amount of torque. Also, OD in 1st gear would be equivalent to 2nd gear in standard....wouldn't that stall the engine in a hill? It seems to me that there are 2 main aspects here: Engine and weight....which is all to do with the single main aspect of torque. weight: However, I think this applies more to heavier cars and big engines (R10 was used on some big heavy cars like the ford 427 on the 1600kg/3700lbs Ford Galaxy ). The OD was also used on Jeeps/willys. For the 'light' 1100kg/2200lbs Rambler american, I imagine using OD in 1st gear from a complete stop isn't as catastrophic as crushing gears or rollers. But do notice that a Rambler american carrying 6 slightly overweight people does weight as much as the galaxy without passengers. Engine power: I also think that the torque of the engine also is important here. Those high torque engines with massive clutch plates are able to transmit a large amount of torque to the transmission and hence the overdrive. Thus the engine is basically stronger than the OD. But with the much smaller flat head inline 6 195.5cu engines on the rambler americans, I think that indeed, the clutch would slip instead of the engine forcing that huge amount of torque through the clutch rollers of the OD. Again, this is all suposition from my end, as I haven't actually tested doing this...It would be nice to know if other people have actually done what some many people are suggesting...can you verify that it is actually possible to use the OD in 1st with no obvious damage? Iv'e even heard of people using the OD transmission in light drag racing However, for about $60 to $100(shipping included), you can buy the governor from ebay, so it's probably not worth causing excessive amount of torque on the transmission for $60. The easier you are on the parts, the more they will last right?
  3. Congratulations on your car. My 1st car was a 1963 Rambler American, and I'm in my 20s! I use it daily, and don't have any modern cars. If your driving it as your only Car, your my already my best friend! I get most of my parts through a site called 'RockAuto' which is very cheap, and usually has 'all the parts your car will ever need'. It's also extremely cheap and reliable. If your gonna drive it in Canada, I highly recommend putting a durable rustproofing undercoat. on it!
  4. It seems that there is surface rust on the belly. I personally hate rust, and depending on where you live, rust becomes a serious issue faster than you think. I personally like most other guys here, always try to leave things as original as possible, however I believe rust is something that you NEED to fix. There are 'rust converters' which you can buy in spray cans. I Live in Canada, and My cars all have thick rubberized asphalt undercoating. This will last a lifetime. I think someone mentioned spraying oil, howvere keep in mind that it will only last a few months.Also, a little rain, and a gravely road is all it takes to destroy the oil film and promote rust.
  5. Over here in Canada all the cars I've seen came with the rubberized asphalt undercoating and most of it is still intact to this day. If you want to save money, you can start with 'roof glue' on flat areas, and then use 'asphalt crack filler' to spray crevices. This stuff is exactly what was used back then, and it's extremely durable, and I've used it for years, in the snow and sludge of Canadian winters...and it's not shinny
  6. Originally many cars came with asphaslt-rubber based undercoating, and were certainly extremely durable and heavy duty. I personally like to undercoat my cars with that stuff inside and out. It's commonly called 'rubberized asphalt undercoating'. Just be aware that some of them are not sprayable.
  7. Whichever type starter that fits is fine
  8. Anyone knows where I can buy a manual type srtarter for an S11 De Soto? There are 3 types of starters that fit it: -Square solenoid type -Round Solenoid type -manual/push button type The Auto Lite part numbers I have are MAX 4050 and MAW 4025, which are for the square and round types I believe. Or if anyone knows how I can find the field coils? Thank you
  9. Hi, I need the same starter. Where did you get it?
  10. As for the colour, I'm just looking for a deep black that will provide durable protection and look nice, not expensive rare paints.
  11. Hey everyone, thanks so much for your inputs. I'd like to clarify that Im not painting the steering wheel, I want to paint the whole car. I think my questions resume to: 1) Acrylic enamel seems to be a thick (high viscosity) paint when compared to laquer and enamel. Is single stage urethane as thick as acrylic enamel? 2) 2 stage paint jobs require sanding, polishing and buffing before applying the clear coat and also after the clear coat is applied. When I painted the steering wheel, the finish was nice even without buffing. Is buffing/polishing required for acrylic enamel and single stage urethane when painting an entire car? Thanks once again for all your inputs!
  12. I recently Used a 12oz Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel aerosol spray can to paint a steering wheel and I very much like the result. An aspect that's extremely good is that the finish is high gloss and required no polishing or buffing, which would have been difficult with all the curves of the steering wheel. I'm relatively new to painting, but it seems to me that Enamel paints don't get orange peel (at least from my experience as I said above) and thus don't require the buffing and sanding that 2 stage urethanes do. However it seems to me that single stage urethanes might have the same effect? The Acrylic Enamel did require a few hours to dry completely, but I much rather wait than having to go through the trouble of sanding and buffing. Iv'e also seen people succesfully use industrial Enamels for painting cars, so maybe that's an option. I'd like the paint to look original, so I don't metalics or any of the fancy paints, just a strong and durable paint that's single colour and glossy. Summer is coming, and I would like to paint my Desoto with a black paint. Now I haven't yet found a comparison between Enamel and single stage urethanes, and so I was hoping that someone might be able to outline their differences , features and where to buy them in Canada or online...It seems that it's much easier to buy paint in the States rather than Canada...so If anyone knows where I can find a good paint that's reasonably priced I'd much appreciate it as well.
  13. tom61

    1946-48 Cars

    I have a 47' Desoto. Needs upholstery
  14. Does anyone have the size of the main jet for the s11 Desoto? I'm running a little rich and looking for the suitable main jet.
  15. Thanks guys. I'll look it up