Bloo

Yes. And if they are new sealed beams from the parts store (instead of the stock Buick ones), they are probably 50 watts each instead of 37.5. In that case upsize it to 20 amps.

I think it is a main bearing support. That, along with the cylinder spacing suggests to me there are only 3 main bearings.

They actually rodded it? I was beginning to think that was a lost art. Which shop was it?

Big six was the first thing I thought of, but as Spinneyhill noted, the cylinder spacing looks wrong. The big six cylinders do not look evenly spaced to me, they look more like pairs. In any event they look different than the cylinders on the unidentified car.

45-50 watts is optimistically a 10% difference in wattage. You are going to be hard pressed to see that. Doubling the wattage might gain you 10% in distance. The voltage at the bulb, on the other hand, makes a big difference, and is often worse with a bigger bulb if there is significant loss in the wiring.

Is that for the end of the exhaust? FWIW my attempts in years past to braze that close to an exhaust port only resulted in melted brass while in operation. Is the exhaust temperature of a brass era car cold enough that you can get away with it?

Is this an Ambassador six? Inline sixes are inherently in primary balance, and the crank is balanced only to itself. The pistons are simply matched to each other for weight, so you can go as light as you want on the pistons without rebalancing the crank. If it is an eight, the crank (and rods) would need to be rebalanced for lighter pistons. Of course a custom piston supplier could probably do original weight if that is what you wanted. If it were me, I would probably get it balanced anyway. There is really no downside. IIRC Nash was an early adopter of electronic engine balancing. I am not sure if they were doing that yet in 1937, but they may have been. They certainly were in the early postwar era. I had a 1951 Statesman that you could not hear idling, even standing next to it with the hood open.

IIRC General Jumbo was aftermarket stuff. Fat balloon tires on smaller rim diameters at a time when they didn't really exist yet. I have never seen any that look quite like the ones in the pictures. They usually look like this:

Ok, so what ya do is.... Stick that suction cup to the valve, put a little of the fine compound on the face, put that stick between your hands and go back and forth a bunch. Then, pick the vale up with the stick, rotate 1/4 turn or so, then back down and grind back and forth some more, lift go another 1/4 turn, grind again and so on. Keep going until it is good. What you want to see is a nice gray line about the same width all the way around both the valve and the seat. It will be a wider line than fresh ground valves. Thats fine. Get it nice and even and all the way around on both surfaces. You will have to wipe the compound off with a rag now and then to see what is really going on. If it doesn't come right in, and its taking all day, go to the coarser compound to get the line all the way around, and then finish with the fine. Try to keep the abrasive out of the valve guide. Everything will need a really good wash afterward, but keep the mess under control as much as possible. As old-tank said, check the height of the stem. If it is too far off, maybe try a different valve. Good luck. If you are going to pull the other head anyway, lap all the valves. It cant hurt. Edit: I see your bottle of compound has only one grade. No problem. Just keep grinding until you get a nice line.

Seriously this could be back on the road fast if you want. Could the rings be shot? Sure. Maybe. I have driven hundreds of thousands of miles on shot rings. As long as they're not broken and tearing up the cylinders, it is a non-problem. You just have to keep it full of oil and change it often. Burned valves on the other hand are a showstopper. I am not going to tell you not to rebuild it again, especially if you can afford to. It probably needs to happen eventually. New engines are nice, but they sure aren't necessary. On the other hand, my gut says get it back on the road. When you are trying to hang on to a car, never leave it apart too long.

1927 Erskine. Hijack? Isn't this an Erskine parts for sale thread?

Looks an awful lot like Model A Ford.

Arias, Ross, Wiseco, JE, etc. Yes, it is expensive. Piston technology has changed a lot in the last 30 years or so. Custom pistons may give you the opportunity, if you choose, to have less weight (easier on the bearings), modern rings (smaller. last longer, control oil better, and wear the cylinder less), full floating pins (if the engine has some goofy pin arrangement that makes you nervous), possibly raise compression slightly (and tighten up the quench zone on some engines). If the block needs boring, get the modern pistons. This is a place where it makes sense to spend the money.

Paint is a far better option than portawalls. Neither looks like real tires.

If you don't leave enough airspace at the top, it will push out the water that it doesn't want. Does it continue to get lower if you don't add water? If not, I would leave it alone. It is possible to have an overflow tank on an open system like yours. Chevrolet (and probably everybody else) used to offer them as accessories. It would usually be mounted high, probably on the firewall. Coolant goes up, and then siphons or drains back in when the car cools. The system is still not pressurized, and the vent is at the overflow tank. Don't plug it. Hydraulic pressure will likely break something if you do. In most radiators, the coolant should just barely cover the top of the tubes.

Yes. I have replaced a bunch of those.

Welp.... Ow. Did you do a leakdown test yet? It probably popped the headgasket between 6 and 8. Maybe it burned those 2 exhaust valves. You could suss it out with a leakdown tester but it doesn't really matter because that head has to come off. Still got parts from the other 322? See if those 2 valves are burned, if they are, borrow a couple from the other engine and lap them in with clover compound and a stick. Clean it up real good. Since there is no adjustable valvetrain, you need to pay attention to the installed valvestem height and don't change it too much. Drop a new headgasket on it and torque it down. You could be back on the road in a few days. P.S. I am still trying to get my head around how it got that hot and the fan clutch never engaged. I think the fan clutch has to be defective. I like your idea about putting a solidly mounted fan on.

The enclosed "temp" gauge reminds me of a marine oil pressure gauge I once had. Look at old boat stuff, and you might find a match.

Do you have a picture and do these parts interchange with any other Studebaker products? I have a late 20's (I think) Studebaker rear axle laying out in my back 40. It has been in the weather for years, so I don't know if anything would be usable. I suspect it is about a 1927 Big Six.

FWIW I am going through a rebuild on a Pontiac rear axle of similar design, and parts have been a huge problem. I have 3 disassembled axles here, and still not quite enough good parts (and I have a brand new ring and pinion and bearings). Based on my own recent experience, If I were you I would be jumping up and down to take mcdarrunt up on his generous offer. You never know what you might need.

KRK Sr, Do you have information about the correct jack (and handle and/or crank) for a 1936 Pontiac? If so, please send me a PM. Thank you.

Glass huh? Interesting. I would have expected hard rubber with some sort of cast-in finger loops at the ends. I would love to see pictures when you get around to it.

Radio "A" batteries, at least any described as "storage batteries", should be 6 volt car batteries.

It's a damn shame to have to replace a head casting on a 53,000 mile car but that is the best thing to do. If the car has a heat riser, make sure it opens!