Wes Rinella

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Wes Rinella

  • Rank
    Member
  1. I have a 1929 Fargo with a DeSoto 6 cyl K engine. It would cost a lot to rebuild your engine today so that's a start. These cars are not high on the collectible car list so demand is limited. I should be worth $5K but sadly due to the high cost of restoring old cars and lower resale value it might bring $2K I'ts all about finding the guy who needs a engine but doesn't care that it will not be a numbers matching engine for his car. I would list it at what you feel you need to feel good about selling it for. Start on the high side and take offers. I will tell you that the Stromberg carb is problematic. I never got mine to work and replaced it day one, with a Cartier "Zip Fit " BB-1 I recently tried to have the Stromberg rebuilt and was told NO They said that it is a dangerous carburetor and should not be used. Thin pot metal subject to warping and leakage which caused fires as it is mounted near the exhaust. Good luck.
  2. Is there any life left in this old thread? I have a 1929 fargo with the same tranny. I have a throw out bearing rattle and before pulling it apart I'd like to find extra parts. My bearing moves vertically band an forth on the sleeve shown in prior posts. I assume the noise is caused by the slack moving between the forks on the petal assembly and the pressure plate. Is this normal or am I missing some type of spring? anybody who has parts please let me know. Thanks
  3. Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. I've cleaned the system and ran it without a thermostat It overheated badly. When I put min a new Thermostat it ran cooler but still pushes out fluid more than it should. I like the baffle idea and will consider the water pump pressure. I noticed the lower radiator hose does not have a spring inside and it tends to collapse at the bend, more so after shutting off the engine. I replaced the hoses and installed a internal spring. Looks much better. I sent the carb out for repair so I won't know if that helped for a few weeks. Thanks again for all the input. I'll try almost anything!
  4. It is for sale. I'm just cleaning up a few things that bug me. I don't want to sell it until everything is right mechanically. I sent out the carb for rebuilding. sould be back soon. Like most people, I have a lot of money and time in it. Feel free to make me a offer. I will be listing it in a few weeks. I was planing on starting at $38. Mechanically everything has been rebuilt, lots of new wood. A California car all it's life car, never had any rust to repair. I am the second owner. Just tuned it up, new brake hoses, master and wheel cylinders. Cooling system hoses, thermostat oil changed and all point grease job. Trans fluid and rear end fluid changed. New tubes nice tires. Very driveable. It is not perfect, just very nice. Professionally painted 4 years ago has a few touch ups here and there. The light and throttle levers on the steering column are broken off but useable. Gas gauge needs repair. Pot metal and I could never find replacements. Could easily be recast now that things like lost wax, 3D printing etc is available.
  5. The water pump is not leaking. Everything looks right. I can't think of a way for air to be entering the system other than the overflow tube itself. Timing it right by sound and feel. I've never timed it using the old mechanical method and there is no mark on the damper/pully. It dumps out 2 quarts if I drive it 10 miles of stop and go. I'm going to install a overflow tank and see if I can recover the coolant so it can suck back into the radiator as it cools. If that doesn't work I will pull the head and check/replace gaskets, hoses, and anything I can think of. Thanks for the advice.
  6. I would sand it clean, wash it with denatured alcohol and use JB weld. I've had good luck with it if it's done right. One problem is that if the radiator is corroded in one spot, It could spring a leak later and ruin your day! But then, I worry a lot!
  7. Nice ride! Love the wire wheels. I had a 53 Skylark, boy do I miss it. Selling it was a big mistake!
  8. Thanks for the info. If I don't keep adding water it keeps draining until the engine temp goes up to 220+ and continues to push out water and gain heat. it will drop the coolant level well below the top of the fins and pushes out more water as the temp increases. I don't know what is happening first..overheating for some unknown reason or overheating due to water discharge while driving. I thought of adding a overflow tank but if the engine was designed to work without one I'm thinking something is wrong with the set up. I'd pull the head, check the gasket, but there's no water in the oil or oil in the water. Just seams to run too hot. Help!
  9. I have a 1929 Fargo with a Desoto K 6 cyl engine. The engine was completely rebuilt a long time ago. I have always experienced Radiator problems. When the engine warms up it runs at around 175 degrees. The radiator cap is holding tight but I get a 1/2 a pint or so running out the overflow tube when the engine is turned off. After a few short runs water/antifreeze exits the radiator via the tube inside the radiator when I stop. I am constantly needing to add water to the system daily after just a few runs. Question can I block off the tube so water stays in the radiator? The tube can be seen when you remove the cap. It is inside the radiator about 3/8 in. from the cap. The only other solution I thought to try, short of capping it off, would be to raise the tube higher in the radiator to bleed off less water. I can hear water bubbling in the system when the engine is turned off and then it overflows out the tube. Modern radiators have the tube installed in the side of the radiator inlet and the cap has a pressure release seal that must be opened at a set pressure before the water is allowed to run out of the system. My cap is just a flat cap. No way to prevent overflow at any pressure. I had the radiator core replaced. Maybe they installed the tube wrong? Temp checked with a laser temp gauge. New thermostat changed twice to see if one was defective. I'm assuming 175 is a ok running temp on a warm to hot day. Wouldn't know how to get the engine to run cooler. Internal timing is right engine and cooling system is clear and recently flushed. Any suggestions, greatly appreciated. Wes
  10. I have a 1929 Fargo with a Desoto K 6 cyl engine. The engine was completely rebuilt a long time ago. I have always experienced Radiator problems. When the engine warms up it runs at around 175 degrees. The radiator cap is holding tight but I get a 1/2 a pint or so running out the overflow tube when the engine is turned off. After a few short runs water/antifreeze exits the radiator via the tube inside the radiator when I stop. I am constantly needing to add water to the system daily after just a few runs. Question can I block off the tube so water stays in the radiator? The tube can be seen when you remove the cap. It is inside the radiator about 3/8 in. from the cap. The only other solution I thought to try, short of capping it off, would be to raise the tube higher in the radiator to bleed off less water. I can hear water bubbling in the system when the engine is turned off and then it overflows out the tube. Modern radiators have the tube installed in the side of the radiator inlet and the cap has a pressure release seal that must be opened at a set pressure before the water is allowed to run out of the system. My cap is just a flat cap. No way to prevent overflow at any pressure. I had the radiator core replaced. Maybe they installed the tube wrong? Temp checked with a laser temp gauge. New thermostat changed twice to see if one was defective. I'm assuming 175 is a ok running temp on a warm to hot day. Wouldn't know how to get the engine to run cooler. Internal timing is right engine and cooling system is clear and recently flushed. Any suggestions, greatly appreciated. Wes
  11. I promised myself that I would get the truck back together, work out all the bugs to make it reliable and safe before starting the assembly of another old car I had painted but is still not back together after two years. With the truck done I want to drive it a little before I sell it. I was hoping to get more input from members before listing it. It has been quite. I was thinking about E Bay. I sold a old MG TD with excellent results, but I notice not as many are cars listed there. Maybe the fees are too high. I guess I'll list it with Hemmings Motor News but may try Craigslist for local action. I live in a small town near San Jose, CA. and we have two car shows this summer. Maybe I'll wait til then and see if it moves anybody. I'm not sure what it's worth. It's not perfect but nice enough. I've seen stake beds listed for $45K I don't think any Fargo is worth that much. Most people don't know they exist except as Canadian Dodges, which this is not. I've read that less than 900 were made with this being the only one I've seen that's built into a pick up. Even the Dodge truck of the same year looks completely different. It has a typical truck bed on it. It has a Desoto K engine and drive train. All comments welcome!
  12. Here are a few more photos of the Fargo as she sits. Sorry for the foggy lens on a few photos. Original car is a Stromberg U-1, which I have but they can be leakers, so I use a Carter XIP-FIT with adjustable main jet which works perfect.
  13. Hello, new to the forum I loaded two photos and got maxed out. I can send more or post more if I can get around the limit? The truck is for sale, I just haven't pulled the trigger. I've owned it so long it's like a body part. I've bought, restored and sold lots of cars, but having owned this one since I was 12......well it's like a part of me. Sadly I think it's time to get rid of a few things (projects) to free up some time and space. I would give it to my son but he has his hands full restoring a 190SL my father gave him a few years back. I will take some smaller photos and see if I can load them. The truck has a noisy throwout bearing I'm trying to find one before pulling the tranny. If anyone knows where to get one, let me know. I'm going to try to locate the tranny number, i think it is a T2C having a 6 cyl Desoto K engine but need to check. Like I said, I'm just now doing the research. Wes
  14. Hello, I have a 1929 Fargo truck that I have owned for over 55 years. I started restoring it when I was 12 years old. I recently refinished the truck and am getting it ready to, sadly sell. Over the years I have only put 600 miles on it and just finished refreshing the electrical, brakes and misc. In general working out the details for a new owner. Before I sell it I would like to get a few opinions as to how it came to be a pick up with a wooden cab and bed side panel style. It looks like it started life as a panel truck but the tailgate is unique. It looks like a El Camino of its time. I have been told that Fargo built several custom trucks at the factory. It has always been built as seen in the photos. I replaced all the rotten wood in the 60's just as it was. All workmanship on the original wood and body appeared to be of the highest quality as if done by the manufacture. It was purchased by a Chinese contractor for use in China Town in San Francisco. He wanted a pick up with hydraulic brakes and a larger 6 cyl engine for the hills of San Francisco. It was built for James Cheng It has a Desoto K 6 engine and drive train. Plymouth/Dodge fenders and hood. Nothing has been changed by me during the restoration other than the seat, which is not original, just comfortable! If anyone can help me with any information I would greatly appreciate it. I should have done this a long time ago but never got around to it. I've never seen another one like it, mostly panel trucks in 1/2 ton. Thanks Wes Rinella