Bloo

I have an unknown whole rear axle/diff for a large Studebaker. Do you have any pictures of yours, or identifying marks, lug pattern. etc? I do remember it has wheel studs with a rather large bolt circle, and external bands on the brake drums. I suspect it is a late 20s Big Six, but I really don't know. This thing has been in the weather for decades, so hard telling how good or bad it might be. It is located in central Washington State. Where are you?

Correct, there is no resistor. I know of no normal looking cylindrical 6v coils that use a resistor, and I have looked. The bigger problem might be finding a meter that can measure the voltage. The coil voltage (running or with points closed) ideally should be the same as the charging system voltage . It won't be. (try measuring at the battery or the "bat" terminal on the regulator). If I saw more than half a volt less I would be looking for things to fix. I don't know what you can actually get away with. Maybe more. Probably more. I have not had a lot of luck measuring this lately. For best results get the loss as low as you possibly can.

Are you in Early Times Chapter or Oakland Pontiac Worldwide? I am currently in both, and get magazines. If you don't already have those to look through, post back and I will dig through mine later and see if I can find any numbers to call. It looks like basically any flathead Pontiac would work. My pics are of 1936 6 cyl, some of the other pics in this thread are 8 cyl and much newer than 36. I do not have appropriate parts manuals to verify, but I think ALL of these are the same from 36 to the end (and maybe even back further that that). Anyone who parted out an engine might have one. Oh yeah, and try California Pontiac Restoration if you haven't already.

Any 600:16?

Maybe this? https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/260034/

It may not be lowered. The 60-61 Fords are quite low by default.

I wasn't meaning to suggest that the HydraMatic had overdrive, just that HydraMatic cars usually came with higher final drive because they had 4 gears available, and could get away with it.

Someone I met at Ames last year (who had a lot of road miles in flathead Pontiacs) told me "keep it below 3000 and everything will be fine". Most engines generally should be able to sustain 80% of the RPM the horsepower was rated at. Someone on the VCCA forum told me he could run his 1936 Eight 3250 RPM all day long, and often did on trips until it got wrecked. It was rebuilt and had aluminum pistons. Aluminum pistons put less load on the rod bearings at speed. The good news is that HydraMatic cars are much less likely to spin the engine too fast, because they have a fourth gear. How's that for a non-answer?

Oil bath air cleaners are generally in a lot better shape than you expect. The mesh is almost never screwed up. It's not like the paper. The mesh just gets sticky with oil and stops any lightweight material that gets around the oil. The actual air filter element is the oil! The air has to change direction to get through, and the inertia of the particles sends them right into the oil. The mesh just catches any crud that got past. I have taken some particularly nasty ones apart over the years (not for Lincoln, other makes). I only recall one time i had to find new mesh. it will PROBABLY clean up easy with kerosene or something. If it wont, try soaking the mesh in something aggressive, like MEK. It removes paint, just so you know. What you will find, if it was neglected, is a bunch of pinholes in the bottom of the pan from rust. Water gets trapped in the oil. The oil floats on top of the water, and the water rusts out the bottom of the pan. This is the main reason we service these things and change the oil. It is unlikely that the oil would get so full of dirt that no more could get stuck in it. When they are full of pinholes, I usually braze or silver solder them from the inside. If you are careful, no one will ever know.

Things changed a lot every year back then. Maybe. Probably.

You should post at least an approximate year. From 1957-1961, the connection to the transmission is completely different and wont bolt to a newer car. 1962-1966 (1967 in Canada) are the old "wideblock" engine. 1967 to sometime in the mid 90s is an "LA" engine. It will bolt to 1962-1966(7), but is a very different engine. In the mid 90s, the "LA" engine was redesigned to the "Magnum". It will still bolt up, but many other things changed.

I had these 2 pictures labeled "39 Pontiac Woodie", not sure if it is the same car before and after restoration. Probably. It looks like a different heat shield in the restored pic. Maybe just the angle? "See-Through Pontiac" show car from 1939: Maybe another 1939? Possibly 1940, more likely 1941. 1946 Streamliner?

I believe the exploded view is from a 1941 parts manual. I have not seen that shield on a 1937. My 1937 parts manual only lists 3.326 for 1930-32. That shield does exist on newer flathead Pontiacs. I believe a shield like that for a Carter W-1 or WA-1 one-barrel would be asymmetrical, sticking forward under the fuel bowl. For a carb with the bowl tucked in closer, like the 2-barrels used on the last flathead Pontiacs, the shield would be more square. Some guy on Ebay reproduces them for Hudsons. They look like they would fit. EDIT: I don't see them on there anymore, but there is a 2 barrel one listed. I believe it is the same seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUDSON-WDO-WGD-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-HEAT-SHIELD-DRIP-PLATE-CHEVY-MOST-GM-CARS/263110322648?hash=item3d4298e9d8:g:qewAAOxy-gBR~U47

If you post a picture of it I will make a guess. More or less, with the heavy part of the weight UP, the riser is in the cold-engine (closed) position. The weight will fall when warm, usually toward the block. If you can't get an original spring, try some repro spring for a Buick or a Chevrolet or something. Usually they wind up a turn and a half or so (look at the manual for clues). If you can make it closed cold, and all the way open with the engine warmed up, it is probably close enough. To free up a heat riser, get some of this, Mopar #4318039AC. It is oldschool heat riser solvent with a new name. Put it on every day for 3 or 4 days, and drive the car in-between to heat-cycle it. Then, tap lightly on the end of the shaft. Not in the direction of rotation, but side to side, both ways. If you don't see movement, keep soaking it and driving it a few more days and then try again. When you see it move, it is almost free.

I *think* you would be fine mounting those even on an old Coats 40-40a or something *if* the cone would go down inside there and clamp securely on the lower hole. It is academic, because every tire shop these days has a rim clamp, and that is what you should use. They aren't rare and exotic anymore, and most tire shops have more than one. They typically are intended to grab from the inside with teeth (i do not recommend) on steel wheels, or can grab from the bead surface on aluminum wheels. Just have them grab as if they were aluminum wheels. There is no reason no to. I don't know about the boots. I suspect they wouldn't have had boots originally because they are just welded drop-center rims. You will need to make them smooooooooooooooooooth on the inside. You can't have balls of rust like that on the inside of the rim, or anything rough at all if you intend to run an inner tube against it.

It might help to post which engine you are needing a head for, as 3 different engine families were used in 1956 Plymouths.

It may be time to really scrutinize your front end alignment, the condition of your front end, and make sure your steering box is adjusted correctly. Swimming all over the road is a default behavior for bias ply tires. Good wheel alignment and tightness of steering components is what kept them straight. Some do it worse than others, but they all do it. Stretch a piece of cloth on the bias, and you will see why. The tire deforms as it goes around, squirming the tread. If any little bump or ridge deforms one side of the tire a little more than the other, that becomes a steering input. Wider won't help, although sometimes a different set of tires will seem to help a bit. The cars drove fine when new on bias, though you were correcting a little more than you would with modern tires. On the other hand, if there is a little slop and one tire can steer a little without dragging the other tire and your hand along with it, you might be in for a wild ride.

I found a couple, but John Hess's are better. The last one is my car (1936 Master 6), and shows why it is nearly impossible to get a look at this thing. That green bit is the head. I thought I had a picture of the cavity underneath, but couldn't find it. All the plate has to do is let a little fresh air in that will be heated in the cavity, and then sucked up into the choke housing through that little piece of flex tubing.

One thing I would advise about reassembly, and this is for automatic transmissions in general, not just Hydra-Matics. Cleanliness is absolutely essential. A tiny spec of dust in the wrong place can ruin a rebuild. I know that is hard to believe since you find all sorts of crap from the steels and clutches laying in the pan of working transmissions. I don't know why that is different, but it is. If you are not assembling in a clean, dust free room, and have to use a garage, like I used to do, close the doors and wet down the concrete floor and anything else that might put dust or dirt up in the air. Use a clean, clean, bench. If it is not a metal bench, put down some hard faced paper, something that won't release lint. Don't do part of the assembly and the rest later. Do it all at once and get it closed up. Make sure your case, including any passages, is completely free of that swarf before you start. Clean parts with clean solvent, blow them with compressed air, lubricate as necessary with ATF or transmission assembly lube, and put them in immediately. Do not get them near any shop rags! A tiny piece of lint can ruin your rebuild. Lint free rags are (or used to be) made for transmission rebuilding, but they can't be had on a minute's notice, and probably aren't a good idea anyway. Banish rags, paper towels, etc from your shop while you assemble this. Spool valves in valve bodies need to be able to drop out of their bores under their own weight. Don't be fooled by springs. Most of these spool valves are pressure balanced in actual operation. It really doesn't take anything to make one stick. Be careful cleaning them, Don't try to smooth or deburr uncooperative ones. The sharp edges are absolutely essential to keep tiny dust from wedging the valve and making it stick. If you have some spool valves that won't fall out of their bores, don't just try to polish them or something, because the only way back from that mistake is to find another valve body. Take a step back and plan what to do next. Good luck with your rebuild!

My 1937 parts manual lists it as used on 1936-37 6cyl and 1935-37 8 cyl, part #497618, but has no drawing. It took me a bit to figure out which cover you were talking about. That thing is basically impossible to see with the engine assembled. The cover just covers a cavity which forms a "choke stove" for the automatic choke. For that to work right,, there has to be a way for air to get in. I found the exploded view Early Times Chapter used to have posted: I will try to scare up a picture. I may have one. I collected scads of pics of Pontiac sixes when I was making some missing parts for my engine a couple of years ago. Hardly anything is reproduced for Pontiac, so you will either be looking for used, NOS (ask both Kurt Kelsey and California Pontiac), or making your own. EDIT: I see now there are holes to let the air in. Any plate that covers the cavity and has a couple of holes in it would be functional.

I disagree. I wish I had a dollar for every time I solved a driveability issue by fixing a heat riser that someone thought the car didn't need. If the car was built in the 20s, there might be a very good reason to remove some heat. Some of those systems really had the heat overdone. The gas was heavily laced with kerosene then because the popularity of cars was exploding and they couldn't really produce enough of the lighter fractions. There were problems getting gas to vaporize at all, and most of the cars had updraft carbs. Not true in the mid 30s. If an automatic heat riser, of the type used commonly from the mid 30s on is causing trouble in hot weather, it is either stuck, broken, or someone left the plate out. It should be OPEN when hot. That is the whole idea. The heat riser usually used on inline engines is not a restriction. It is a plate that, when open, redirects the hot exhaust down the pipe, rather than up into the passage under the carburetor. If you leave the plate out, you will have more heat under the carb, not less. Why? Because that plate that directs the exhaust down is not there. Will it be enough extra heat to make the carburetor boil when it wouldn't have otherwise? I don't know, but it is a pretty strong possibility. A hotspot under the carburetor is not just for Minnesota. EVERY even remotely modern car with a carburetor or TBI has one. Why? Because gasoline has a tendency to fall out of the air right underneath the carburetor. Sometimes coolant is used for the heat rather than exhaust, but it is always there.

Welcome! I don't believe you can do this without taking the engine apart. You might not need to take it very far apart. In fact, you could probably do it in the chassis. Prewar cars generally have no seal at all or a rope seal. I believe the 1941 Cadillac has a rope seal. It is literally a piece of graphite impregnated rope, in two halves. With the pan off, you remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove the lower half of the seal from the cap you took off, and on the upper half, you will have to push, pull or roll it out. You then pull the new upper half in with some sort of a wire. There is a special tool called a "Sneaky Pete" made by one of the specialty tool manufacturers like Lisle or K-D that makes it easier. Cut off the ends of the seal, but not flush. It should stick up a little. Fit the other half of the rope to the rear main bearing cap and put it back on and torque it. Reassemble. There is a thread about a 1941 here: http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=102132.0

Standard transmission or Dynaflow. I don't know if you set this particular car with vacuum disconnected, but on almost every old car with vaccuum advance, thats what you do. If the manual doesn't say, then disconnect it.

I can't even guess. This sort of info seems to be thin on the ground for Pontiac. There is a chart that gets posted a lot and I am pretty sure it is wrong, at least for my year (1936). The color in your pictures looks like mid 1960s Chrysler B-Block turquoise to me. I am not suggesting you use that, as Chrysler turquoise I have seen lately looks all wrong to me (too blue). The green mark on the hydramatic looks like some sort of an assembly mark, and probably doesn't mean much about engine color by itself, but yeah, the other pictures look to be about the same color. Pontiac apparently had a lot of greens over the years. Good luck whatever you decide. I also like DupliColor engine paint.

Offset just means that the stem is not in the middle. If the hole is in the middle of the rim you don't want offset.