The Caponemobile

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About The Caponemobile

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  • Birthday 03/23/1932

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Holliston, Mass
  • Interests:
    1930 Chrysler Model 77, Antique Clocks, antique metal-working machinery, and things I am too old to do.

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  1. I can't resist. Lucky you, it's just your 1928 Chrysler rear end that needs repairs. I just found out my 1932 rear end will undergo repairs next Thursday.
  2. Final question for this subject: Since my Carter Carb is too small, is not even remotely original to my car, and should be replaced, what available and affordable carburetor should I be looking for for my 268 CID engine? I am not trying to make my car totally authentic even though I don't want to do anything that would not be reversible to some future restorer. I want it to be a reliable driver when I feel like taking it out for the fun of it, or to shows, or I and or my grandchildren sometimes feel like just showing off. I expect "The Caponemobile" to be a low mileage, low use car. Should we, as a practical matter, just do with what we have?
  3. I am sorry to be so long replying to the several helpful replies to my initial question. First, to Spinneyhill, you nailed most of the problem with your final question. Yes, the electric fuel pump pressure was too high. (One of my friends turned up the pressure a few months ago when the car was starving, probably from dirt in the fuel filter later replaced.) With the pressure lowered the fuel bowl no longer dumped fuel onto the barn floor, but I see that the gasket gets wet so (1) I have not yet started the car, and (2) obviously, I should lower the float a little before starting the car. (PIA job, but somebody has to do it.) Parenthetically, I am petrified of starting the car in my 130 year old wooden barn until I have a friend watching, fire extinguisher in hand. The fuel consumption has been very poor: less than 10 miles per gallon, and it seems now that the reason is obvious. I shudder to think of how many times I have started that car not knowing that gas was pouring out of the engine compartment as the engine was being cranked. To Robert B. and Carbking, thanks for identifying my carb. There is a curiosity about the one on my car in that it has no identifying marks anywhere in the body that I can see. I am guessing that the Carter W-1 on my car is from an aftermarket manufacturer. Is that a reasonable possibility? To hwellens, you were certainly close, and at first glance your pictures looked close to the ones in my Model 77 manual. We were close, but no cigar for us this time. Thanks for helping. And finally to Carbking, at this stage of our rumination, you are surely right that the Carter W-1 on my car is too small for the 268 CID of my engine. As you pointed out, I am losing potential power of my engine. In the area where I live, and thus the conditions and places where I can drive my car, I never usually drive the car faster than forty to forty five MPH. I would never consider driving the car on a highway, and with those wooden wheels, and the usually deplorable condition of most New England back roads, I am reluctant to test the car's verility. Unless the insuffiency of my Carter Carb effects either fuel economy or pollution, is there any reason I need to change to a more suited carburetor? Thanks to all for your help. John Losch
  4. Thanks to Keiser31, and Spinneyhill for your suggestions. The solution I found was to email the pictures to myself. From there I was able to drag them onto my message. I don't know what I was doing wrong, but every time I tried to copy and paste the pictures from my photo file I locked up the computer and had to re-boot. I guess I need computer and carburetor lessons. Thanks again, John Losch
  5. Can anyone identify this carburetor from these pictures? This is the carburetor on my Chrysler Model 77 sedan, and according to the handbook, it is not the original carb. The original was a Stromberg, but the book does not tell which model that was. The needle valve has failed, and I assume I need to replace the rubber-tipped valve. I have cleaned the chamber, the supply line, polished all sliding surfaces to the linkage inside and out, and polished the inside seat of the needle valve to assure there were no burrs. The float floats, and it is positioned parallel with the top of the chamber when the valve is supposed to be closed. I hope a replacement needle valve is available, but I can’t look for one until I know what I need. Also, perhaps there is something I am overlooking. Any advice, comments, or suggestions would be appreciated. I suspect there is no simple rebuild kit for a carburetor this old. On the other hand, I really don’t know much about carburetors. Thanks for any help, John Losch
  6. O.K. I surrender. I have a carburetor question, and I need to post two pictures from the Photo files in my Mac computer. They are approximately 1.6 MB each. Can anyone explain how to do this? I seem to have tried everything but the right thing. Help would be appreciated. Jcl
  7. I came across this recently, and perhaps everyone on this list but me has seen it before. The first thing that got my attention was the music that accompanies the images. It is repetitive, but certainly catchy. The series of photos show numerous parts in stages of restoration. I think details of procedures might give others among us ideas or encouragement. I enjoyed it and decided to pass it on. I hope you like it. John Losch
  8. Many thanks for your reply, and the nicely detailed photos. I am left with this question. Your photos seem to suggest new pins, the long threaded rods in the lower right photo, have threaded heads so that the "pins" can be inserted into the retainers riveted to the catwalk by threading them into the retainers. That leaves two questions. can the original "pins" be removed without cutting the retainer rivets? If so, how. My second question, how do you hold the threaded heads to tighten them in place? I guess my real question is, "What am I missing?" I am obliged for any help you can provide.
  9. I have a related problem. Two of the four hood latches on my '30 Model 77 Chrysler have excessively strong springs; one on each side. All of the latches are apparently riveted to the "catwalk." I assume that to remove any of them I would need get out and under and cut the rivets. (I am disabled, and depend on friends to look at things like this, so there may an easy answer, but I haven't asked anyone to get down and look.) I unscrewed one of the hooks before someone pulled too hard and stripped the fine thread that holds the hook and lifting hole to the body of the latch. I did that because the match of brass threads seems to be rather loose and sloppy. My simple question is, how do I remove the body of the latch from the clamp on the catwalk? Do I hold the link to the catwalk retainer with "padded" pliers, then try to unscrew the body of the clamp from the retainer? My object,of course, is to replace the present springs with weaker ones. I just don't see how to go about it. I have a machine shop, and can fabricate what is needed when I know what that is. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks for any help, John Losch
  10. Thanks to all for the tire pressure information. We had the first shakedown run of the Caponemobile today, a little over five miles, and I think I will lower the front tire pressure a little from forty pounds until the winter pot holes are filled. I am not sure those eighty-eight year old wood wheels enjoy that kind of pounding even at thirty mph or less. The wheels are in excellent shape, well varnished, and seem to show no play when elevated, and shaken left to right. Tires are expensive, but they are cheaper than repairs to or replacement of wood wheels. Am I being overly cautious, or practical? Otherwise, first ride for this year; what a great feeling! John Losch
  11. I have had various and conflicting advice about the correct tire pressure for my 1930 Chrysler Model 77. The tires on it are Firestone whitewalls 5.50 - 18, and the only other marking on the tires is "Gum Dipped." There is no pressure recommendation. I have been running them at 32 pounds. I would appreciate any suggestions or advice. It rained like nobody's business in the Boston area today (all over the Marathon runners) but that means the salt is washed off the New England roads. My car will have its first limber-up, and shake down run of the season next Wednesday. The 2018 car season is beginning in the U.S. Northeast. Hooray! John Losch
  12. Tim, what is the difference between the wheel base of a 70 four door and a two door sedan, if any? (My 1930 "77" four door sedan has a 124" wheel base.) It is interesting that the sedan and the coup in your pictures have the same vents on the sides of the hood as those used on some 77 cars of 1930.
  13. There are certainly more important questions I should be asking, and I will discover them when spring weather lets me resurrect my 77 four door sedan. I can hardly wait! In the mean time, I have the original winged radiator cap on my car, and wherever I park it I feel compelled to remove the cap. That is easily done, as assuredly others with sticky fingers are aware. I don't want to lose it thus my two questions. Is there a plain substitute for the winged cap available that I can put on the car between car shows? If not, what have others done to prevent theft of the cap? I have thought of making a chain arrangement with a bar dropped through the opening on the radiator so long that it would require some careful manipulation to extract the assembly. There are probably better ideas out there, but right now they evade me. I would appreciate any suggestions except "Leave the car in the barn."
  14. Kaiser, thanks for your reply. I think the panel is intended as a kick panel. It consists of the same material as the running board, framed by a chrome plated half-round molding. It seems like a good idea. I am surprised it was not copied and used by other models or manufacturers.
  15. My "30 Model 77 has a cover to the riser between the running board and the doors that I have never seen on any other car, let alone a Chrysler of the period so I assumed that it was something the previous owner and restorer of my car hd added. I did not think it was original to the car. I have attempted to attach a picture, but without success. Recently I found a presentation on youtube of a similar 30 Model 77 with right hand drive from either Australia or New Zealand, and it has the same configuration above the running board. Was this a standard option on a Chrysler 77, or an aftermarket addition? I would be interested in anyone's comments. John Losch 1930 Chrysler #5.webarchive