The Caponemobile

Members
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About The Caponemobile

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/23/1932

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Holliston, Mass
  • Interests:
    1930 Chrysler Model 77, Antique Clocks, antique metal-working machinery, and things I am too old to do.

Recent Profile Visitors

830 profile views
  1. Progress report: We torqued the head in two stages, according to Sasha's pattern. First to 40 pounds, and a lot of studs were too easy to turn as we progressed. After an hour or so, we went on to fifty five pounds, but with the engine hot. After the first torquing there were no longer any weeps. After the second torquing, which seemed easy, because the engine was warm, we decided that was enough. We didn't want to stretch old studs. The engine is dry. We also replaced the plugs, not because they were not working, but because a couple of the plug seals were weeping oil. The seals were sufficiently rusted to justify the replacement. I report these things as a progress report on a car which was supposed to have been fully restored when I acquired it over three years ago. I have pictures showing that there was a body off restoration of the chassis and body, even with the report of an appraiser that described and graded the extensive work done. At this stage I believe the body and chassis work was well done, but it becomes apparent that a lot of mechanical and electrical work was left "for the next guy." Me. I hope my experiences are helpful to other "other guys" so I will try to keep you posted.
  2. Rusty, thanks for the suggestion. Now two questions. Where is a damper installed on a 30 front end, and are such dampers available. Shimmy has been my principal problem.
  3. Thanks! That solves one question. Now I can order the tube I need. Thanks for your help.
  4. I have not been around much lately; both my Chrysler and I are fighting old age, and winning. The engine is now running without spilling gasoline on the barn floor. Whew! We (I have mobile friends) are about to adjust the thrust of the master cylinder so that fluid can more readily return to the reservoir when the brakes and fluid are hot (advice I got here), and we have found a shop with a wheel stretcher that can replace the inner tube with the leaking filler neck. I have two questions: 1. where do I find the alignment specifications for my '30 Chrysler 77 sedan (four door)? 2. what is the correct inner tube for my Firestone 550 - 18 tires? Cocker tires has a tube for 550 - 19 that reviews say will be ok. The same supplier has a tube for a 550 - 18 tube, but with an "off set" filler neck. Any advice on which I should use on my wooden wheels? The hole in the rim looks to be centered, and it is very much larger than the rubber filler necks I have, and are available.
  5. Thanks for all the above information. Still, I have a question. I have seen slight "weeping" at spots surrounding the head before the engine is warmed up. I assume that I should re-torque the head, at least as a "first step." My question is, does Sasha's torquing strength (60-65) and pattern also apply to my '30, Model 77 silver dome engine? I notice that the layout of the studs varies slightly from Sasha's drawing. (Also, I did not count the studs.) Note: so far, I have seen no evidence of water in the oil, always a possibility if the head is loose. Obliged for any information or comments.
  6. The Chrysler 77 Sedan has a headache. There are three major problems. Last time I asked about the front end. It is all tight, and, when the car becomes mobile again, we will have to have the front end aligned, from all appearances. We (my 14 year old helper and legs) and I took the front wheel to what I thought was a real tire specialist, and he wanted nothing to do with my leaky front wheel with a split rim. TBC. We planned to put the spare wheel in place when we found that the reason the tire on it had never touched ground was that the wheel can't be removed from the spare holder. The internal rim of the wheel won't fit over the bottom of the spare frame. In league with the great mysteries of the universe is, "How the Hell did anyone get that wheel on the spare holder frame in the first place?" We let the air out of the tire, but that helps nothing, because the split rim can't be opened, and the tire removed, with out some form of destruction. Low on the priority list is how to remove the entire assembly from the car, and see what can be pried, sprung or bent without bending the tire rim itself. Ultimately, I conclude that I will have to remove (grind or machine) enough of the lower half of the spare holder frame for the lip of the tire rim to pass out from under it. Another TBC! I seem to have eternal carburetor problems. When I started the car a few days ago it was pouring gasoline on a wooden barn floor again. That's widely seen as a definite NO NO! Again, the needle valve was stuck. Right now I am not in a position to replace the inappropriate Carter W 1 with the correct DX3, so I decided to order a rebuild kit for the Carter. I found the model, and, you guessed it - - - the kit is out of stock. We have the patience of a rock, and the search continues. I did examine the condition of the needle valve under a microscope, and neither the seat nor the tip of the valve seem damaged. I have slightly lowered the float, but have since then not yet reinstalled the assembly for further test. Does TBC seem unfamiliar? Next, I believe I should either rebuild or replace the hydraulic brake master cylinder. On a couple of occasions I have had the brakes lock and I was able to relieve them by cracking and spilling fluid that should have passed back through the master cylinder. Probably it would be wise to purge the brake system on the assumption that there are particles of rust in the system. Still, I feel I would like to overhaul the master cylinder as a security measure. My problem is that I have no idea what master cylinder, or kit, I should order. The cylinder is original as far as I can tell, using the "77 Handbook" as a reference. Clearly the reservoir was overfilled at some time, and brake fluid has spilled over the grungy looking cylinder. (The rest of the engine compartment is a lot better looking.) Note: I tried to attach a picture of the master cylinder, and lost all of my text. Through some miracle I returned to the forum, and found my "lost" text. I have no intention of messing with all this again just to attach a picture. Computers are not my thing. If anyone needs a picture of my master cylinder, I will try again, but not until this text is sent. If anyone got this close to the end of this message, can you tell me how I identify the brake master cylinder for my car? Thanks for your patience with my ramblings, and for any information you can provide. TBC? John Losch
  7. Thanks for the good ideas. I will report back.
  8. After several months of me being restored, I am back to my 1930 Chrysler Model 77 Sedan. It has various problems perhaps from too much rest. Of immediate concern is balance of at least one wheel. The last time I drove the car it suddenly broke into a front end shimmy at about thirty miles an hour. It did it a couple of times, and I was able to stop it by swinging the wheels to the left or right suddenly, then resuming my direction. Over the winter I discovered that the right front wheel had a flat tire. The filler valve was canted to about thirty degree angle, and I assume the tire and tube must have shifted during the shimmying. I also assume that the tube is leaking at the valve. (I will find out tomorrow when the wheel will be removed.) In the mean time the leak is extremely slow, because the tire will stay at about forty pounds for two or three weeks at a time while just sitting, fyi. The car was inspected shortly before the shimmying incident, passed inspection, and from that I assume that the bearings, tie rod ends, and other parts of the front end are free of play. I will learn more about that tomorrow when the front of the car will be jacked up. At this point my suspicion is that the problem is wheel balance. With wooden wheels and demountable rims, as is the case with my Chrysler, I have no idea what is involved with balancing wheels. Will I need to pull the wheels, and balance all as a single assembly, or can the rims and tires be balanced separately - - - - and, of course how? I would appreciate any advice, suggestions, or reports of experience available from my friends on this list. Thanks for any help.
  9. I can't resist. Lucky you, it's just your 1928 Chrysler rear end that needs repairs. I just found out my 1932 rear end will undergo repairs next Thursday.
  10. Final question for this subject: Since my Carter Carb is too small, is not even remotely original to my car, and should be replaced, what available and affordable carburetor should I be looking for for my 268 CID engine? I am not trying to make my car totally authentic even though I don't want to do anything that would not be reversible to some future restorer. I want it to be a reliable driver when I feel like taking it out for the fun of it, or to shows, or I and or my grandchildren sometimes feel like just showing off. I expect "The Caponemobile" to be a low mileage, low use car. Should we, as a practical matter, just do with what we have?
  11. I am sorry to be so long replying to the several helpful replies to my initial question. First, to Spinneyhill, you nailed most of the problem with your final question. Yes, the electric fuel pump pressure was too high. (One of my friends turned up the pressure a few months ago when the car was starving, probably from dirt in the fuel filter later replaced.) With the pressure lowered the fuel bowl no longer dumped fuel onto the barn floor, but I see that the gasket gets wet so (1) I have not yet started the car, and (2) obviously, I should lower the float a little before starting the car. (PIA job, but somebody has to do it.) Parenthetically, I am petrified of starting the car in my 130 year old wooden barn until I have a friend watching, fire extinguisher in hand. The fuel consumption has been very poor: less than 10 miles per gallon, and it seems now that the reason is obvious. I shudder to think of how many times I have started that car not knowing that gas was pouring out of the engine compartment as the engine was being cranked. To Robert B. and Carbking, thanks for identifying my carb. There is a curiosity about the one on my car in that it has no identifying marks anywhere in the body that I can see. I am guessing that the Carter W-1 on my car is from an aftermarket manufacturer. Is that a reasonable possibility? To hwellens, you were certainly close, and at first glance your pictures looked close to the ones in my Model 77 manual. We were close, but no cigar for us this time. Thanks for helping. And finally to Carbking, at this stage of our rumination, you are surely right that the Carter W-1 on my car is too small for the 268 CID of my engine. As you pointed out, I am losing potential power of my engine. In the area where I live, and thus the conditions and places where I can drive my car, I never usually drive the car faster than forty to forty five MPH. I would never consider driving the car on a highway, and with those wooden wheels, and the usually deplorable condition of most New England back roads, I am reluctant to test the car's verility. Unless the insuffiency of my Carter Carb effects either fuel economy or pollution, is there any reason I need to change to a more suited carburetor? Thanks to all for your help. John Losch
  12. Thanks to Keiser31, and Spinneyhill for your suggestions. The solution I found was to email the pictures to myself. From there I was able to drag them onto my message. I don't know what I was doing wrong, but every time I tried to copy and paste the pictures from my photo file I locked up the computer and had to re-boot. I guess I need computer and carburetor lessons. Thanks again, John Losch
  13. Can anyone identify this carburetor from these pictures? This is the carburetor on my Chrysler Model 77 sedan, and according to the handbook, it is not the original carb. The original was a Stromberg, but the book does not tell which model that was. The needle valve has failed, and I assume I need to replace the rubber-tipped valve. I have cleaned the chamber, the supply line, polished all sliding surfaces to the linkage inside and out, and polished the inside seat of the needle valve to assure there were no burrs. The float floats, and it is positioned parallel with the top of the chamber when the valve is supposed to be closed. I hope a replacement needle valve is available, but I can’t look for one until I know what I need. Also, perhaps there is something I am overlooking. Any advice, comments, or suggestions would be appreciated. I suspect there is no simple rebuild kit for a carburetor this old. On the other hand, I really don’t know much about carburetors. Thanks for any help, John Losch
  14. O.K. I surrender. I have a carburetor question, and I need to post two pictures from the Photo files in my Mac computer. They are approximately 1.6 MB each. Can anyone explain how to do this? I seem to have tried everything but the right thing. Help would be appreciated. Jcl
  15. I came across this recently, and perhaps everyone on this list but me has seen it before. The first thing that got my attention was the music that accompanies the images. It is repetitive, but certainly catchy. The series of photos show numerous parts in stages of restoration. I think details of procedures might give others among us ideas or encouragement. I enjoyed it and decided to pass it on. I hope you like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6u0AjqiLU8 John Losch