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nashtwin8

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About nashtwin8

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  • Birthday 01/05/1960

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  1. Thanks for the helpful comments everyone. Right now, I'm just going to mount some good used tires on these rims so I can trailer the car to a new storage garage. It's going to be a while yet before I can begin restoration, and I'll have to do things "right" then. Some of the very old tires presently on the car have gone flat, and cracked and broke in the process. Wish me luck! Jerry K
  2. Thanks for all the responses! Sorry to be so slow, but things have been rather busy for us of late. I thought I'd post a few pictures of one of the wheels in question, in case it helps narrow the suggestions down any more. These take a 7.00 x 17 tire. Is there any need for flaps with these wheels? They appear to have smooth, seamless rims, so from what I've been told, I don't think so. I'm here to ask the experts though! Thanks again to one and all! Jerry K
  3. Hi Perry, For a start, it depends on what model your Nash is. Nash was building and selling three completely different model series in 1929, and they are all quite different in terms of size and dimensions. I'm not sure where to get the specs you're looking for, but I am curious as to which model your car is. In general, a Nash body of that time has a lot more wood in it than a Ford body, and would have been a considerably tighter, quieter car when new, so probably a lot more comfortable as well. Even the lowest priced Nash was a lot higher priced than a Ford, so would
  4. I was told long ago that 1930s style wire wheels are not strong enough to use on a pneumatically operated tire changing machine - that the machine is too powerful, and will break the spokes and ruin the wheel. Is that really true? How about 1930s steel artillery wheels? Can those be used on a tire changing machine in any tire shop, or do I need to break out the tire irons and do that job by hand? Probably doesn't matter, but these wheels are on my '34 Nash. Thanks in advance for any helpful tips and advice. Jerry K Seattle
  5. I think there was another factor not yet mentioned. Metallurgy was advancing rapidly in the late 1920s and early 1930s. Steel disc wheels may have been prohibitively expensive to make in 1900 (if they could have been made practical under the conditions then at all). Given the high ground clearances required by the rutted roads found almost everywhere, they also would probably have been far heavier than comparatively light wood wheels. By 1932 or so, all these factors were changing, including the steel alloys available, and the cost of producing things made of various materials. You could also
  6. I like your beautiful Continental Barry, and I am very intrigued by the whole story of the Continental automobile. I have had a chance to see a couple of Beacons and a fairly complete Ace sedan in need of complete restoration, but I don't think I have ever seen a Flyer. From what you say, your Flyer sounds like a pretty good car. I hope you are still enjoying it. Take care, Jerry K
  7. Alan, As noted above, Nash built several straight 8s in the 1930s. The first was the largest, and used overhead valves and twin ignition. The 1930 490, 1931 890 and 1932 990 used a 298 cu. in. which was enlarged to 322 cu. in. and used in the 1932 (second series) 1090, 1933 1190 and 1934 1290. In 1931 two more eights were introduced. The smaller one was a flathead, which was built only through 1933. The intermediate used overhead valves and twin ignition, and was the one described above, built from 1931 thru 1942. The 1942 models were the only OHV Nash eights without twin ignition. The flathea
  8. Doug, In case you are still wondering, I think what you have is a tail light for a '29-'31 Nash, from the larger model series. For example it looks just like the one on my '31 890. I'm not sure whether it would also fit the 880 or not. Take care, Jerry K
  9. While the emblem itself is the same, the chrome housing on this one marks it as being for a '49-'51 full-size Nash, but not a Rambler.
  10. Adding an oil filter means your engine will require more oil to fill the crankcase. An extra quart was the standard for ordinary oil filters. DO NOT add a mark to your dipstick!!! You want the engine oil level to stay the same. However, some of the oil will go to filling up the filter at all times - additional space that wasn't part of the oil system before adding the filter. That's why you need to use more oil. Do NOT overfill your crankcase! You may end up with air creating foam in the oil, greatly reducing the lubricating capacity of the oil, and probably causing serious damage to your engi
  11. Hi Everyone, I have a similar question - my father has this Graham Supercharger, but we are not sure what it fits. From the above, I gather that this is a later-model unit. Would this script have been used to the end of Graham production? Any further advice would be appreciate. Is there much demand for a unit like this? Would it be worth our while to restore it before trying to sell it, or would most restorers rather buy it as is? Also, what is the object that looks like an oil pressure sender? Thanks for your help, Jerry K Seattle
  12. Koby, you remind me of myself when I was your age, in the mid-1970s. Before I got a driver's license at age 16, and a job, I would come home from school and read Hemmings Motor News, Old Cars Weekly, or any of several car club magazines my dad and/or I got in the mail. You're lucky that today you can use the internet to communicate with others who share your interests. Back then we were not so connected, and it was seldom I found anyone anywhere near my age who understood what I was so fascinated with. I applaud your desire to keep a car original, as that's what I like best, too. As you said,
  13. Sorry no one has answered your inquiry until now. The Nash Car Club of America is an active club of more than 1,300 members worldwide. They have a nice little magazine, and an active website with ads, a huge library, and a whole lot more. You can take a look at www.nashcarclub.org As for parts, well, Nash parts are not as plentiful as Buick parts, nor are there many vendors specializing in Nash parts. Still, for '50s era cars in particular, parts are out there, and with a little persistence you can usually track them down. The Nash Car Club is the network, so joining the club is the best thing
  14. No, that is not correct. A look at the wheelbase specs alone will show you that Nash had many different chassis during the years you ask about. 1937-1939 chassis were pretty much the same, except for a major redesign of the ohv 6 & 8 cylinder heads, intake & exhaust systems for '38, and '40 made a switch to independent front suspension across the board. Here's a quick rundown to help you sort it all out. 1932 1st Series Series 990 - 124 & 133" wheelbases, 298.6 cu in OHV twin ignition straight 8 Series 980 - 121" wheelbase, 240 cu in OHV twin ignition straight 8 Series 970 - 116.25
  15. I don't know what kind of car this is, but I don't think it's a Buick. If you look closely at the photo of the '26 Buick posted, it does not have those hard, angular corners on the radiator. Buick had a much more softly curved radiator/hood design at that time, that eventually got them in trouble with Packard for looking a bit too Packard-like. I'm guessing this is a much less common car than a Buick.
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