Bloo

Here is the doohickey used on the newer cars. It's dimension is 0.888" between flats if you want to make one.

99 percent chance you are right. The 3 on the tree was probably technically still available, but they are rare in any Mopar of the period, and I have never seen one in a 1970 Dart. Chrysler put automatics in almost everything. With that rear particular bumper and "Dodge" script on the trunk, it is a 1970 Dart for sure. The overwhelming majority had the 225ci Slant Six. Some had a 318 v8. Other options exist but are unlikely.

That hole is to let the coolant fill up to the thermostat so the engine doesn't have to overheat to "burp" when it first runs with new coolant. Sometimes it's a little check valve instead of a hole.

Yes, and its been going on longer than that. Literally everything with a downdraft carburetor (or throttle body injection) has a hotspot under the carb (or TBI). Sometimes its coolant instead of exhaust, but it is always there. Maybe there could be exceptions on racing homologation specials and the like. You won't see it on cars intended to be street driven.

I also have one of these tools. While it is true that you can use this clear up into the 1950s (or more), there is another piece, a hypoid adapter, not shown in the photo needed if you are setting up hypoid style gears. To the best of my recollection, the tool will work as shown on all up through 1936, and through 1937 on Roadmaster and Limited only. Anything newer would need the adapter. My tool has update sheets in the box up to 1941 or so. This info is also in the shop manuals and goes much much newer, as previously pointed out. Buick also had a newer design tool later on, but the only real difference was the micrometer counted the opposite direction, so you add where you would have subtracted and vice versa. The newer service manuals explain it all. Either tool requires a hypoid adapter to set up Buicks newer than the 1936-37 era.

The implication of that (no idle jets and progressive actuation) is that the throttle plates on those outer carbs have to seal when closed. I would really wonder about the "barrel" closest (well.... closest in runner length, however that works out) to the missing cylinder. Could it have a bad throttle shaft or an egg shaped plate or something? No EGR. That came up because Carbking remembered seeing cracks in some caddy manifolds that could potentially leak air or exhaust to the intake. The behavior would be like malfunctioning EGR if it were exhaust.

I have a whole bunch of favorites, but I'll throw the Matra Bagheera out there since no one else has.

The exhaust thing didn't occur to me either, even though I drive a flathead Pontiac, and they are prone to it. I am still betting it will be a lean misfire. We don't yet know whether it has idle jets on the outside carbs, and if it is progressive or fixed. That makes it hard to guess.

In my line of work we called that a "dilution misfire". It isn't lean because the exhaust is more or less inert, but it still misses. It is exactly what you get when an EGR valve on a newer car doesn't quite seal. The exhaust doesn't mix because the engine RPM is low, and the exhaust all winds up in one or 2 cylinders, killing them. CO will be close to normal on the exhaust analyzer, indicating a more or less normal mixture, but the HC output will be through the roof because of the miss.

IIRC it should be off in the middle, instruments to the left, and instruments plus map light to the right. It is a black toggle handle on a slider switch. I don't think any of it comes on unless the headlight switch is on. I have seen this on Buicks, but only have a Pontiac to look at for the moment. It isn't the same switch, but its close. Delco-Remy 1404 for the 1937 Buick. Run your hand along the lower edge of the dash, not quite at the center. Knob slides. It is pointing toward the floor.

I'm not sure about the dome light. Either a little pull rod on the light itself or a little chrome slider switch on the door post... maybe... The map light (center of dash) and the instrument lights have a switch. The handle hangs under the dash somewhere toward the center. Instruments one way, both the other.

Thanks for all the responses!

It is time to have a good look at the closest barrel of the closest carburetor. Does this setup have idle jets on all carbs or just the center? Is it progressive linkage? It is truly amazing how small a vacuum leak can be and still kill a cylinder, particularly if the leak is out on a runner.

Maybe the two slightly different level holes indicate the correct level? Oil should run out one, but not the other?

You should be able to find one, or at least something real close. The first question anyone will ask is how long is the head, 23" or 25". Measure it and find out. This basic engine was made for decades and is almost indestructible. I'm sure with a little looking around something will turn up.

You should repost this over in the Buick Pre-War Technical section. This section here is read mainly by the people who run the forum (forum administrators, computer and software people). It was random that I happened to see it. I'll take a quick stab at the question though. 1937 Buicks originally had a rubber mat in the front seat area. You may be able to get that at Bob's Automobilia. https://bobsautomobilia.com/ The carpet in the rear will have to be made up by an upholstery or trim shop I think. It was a wool pile. I suggest WIlton carpet. It is wool, and stiff, and stiff is good in old cars that used flat carpet without much attachment. Lebaron Bonney used to sell kits to do the whole car in carpet. They are out of business. I don't know of anyone else. Try posting here instead: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war-technical/ You will get answers from people who know a lot more than I do. Welcome to the forum!

There HAD to be a condenser SOMEWHERE. I don't know if it was inside or outside the distributor. If you don't have one that will make it not run. It's hard to see what is happening in there from the pic. The point with the wire attached has to be insulated from ground somehow. The other point is grounded. The wire should go hot/not-hot as the distributor turns. I'll bet the condenser hung on the outside. P.S. They know these 4 cylinder Chevies inside out on http://vccachat.org

I second the Ford inertia switch. I would avoid split loom. That is the bane of modern wiring harnesses. It's ugly, makes the harness bigger than it needs to be, and then rots and falls apart. Once you have the wiring all worked out, I would see about getting one of the harness makers to weave a covering on it. Either that or just neatly wrap it in friction tape, and tie the loose end down with a piece of heatshrink.

You might want to take a closer look at the actual measurements of those 8.20-15s. He may be going by outside diameter. None of the "old" sizes have an aspect ratio number as low as 75, and IIRC there is a little funny business about the 8.20-15 size on top of it in some brands. Diamondback list their 8.20-15 at 29.2 inches tall and and an 8.2 inch section width. They list their 235-75-15 at 29 inches tall and a 9.2 inch section width. A 225-75-15 calculates to 28.3 inches tall and 8.8 inches of section width.

There was nothing unusual about points in imported cars in the late 70s. More unusual in 80-82 but there were still some around.

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, the car in the song is a Nash Rambler, not a Nash Metropolitan. Still might need some nitrous to keep up.....

Putting it back on is relatively easy, just put the clip in first and push the handle on until it snaps.

The inside handle? It should be the typical General motors c-clip. Look at your window crank. There are various methods. One is a tool that slides under to pop the clip. GM used that basic design into the 80s at least.

It may not have ever had the same key. Some (many?) Pontiacs used one key for the ignition and doors, and the other for glovebox and trunk. Not sure if that applies to your year. I can't remember which head was which either. Someone in here probably knows.

It SHOULD be that blank.... well almost. GM cars from the mid 30s to the mid 60s or maybe longer had 2 different style blanks for 2-key cars. The head was the only difference. It should go in.