Bloo

I have been reading this forum for years, and have still not seen a single instance posted where one of those "new" regulators worked properly. I've not tried them myself so cant say for sure, but the track record certainly does not look good. Do you still have the old one? I would try it if so. The old ones were generally repairable. An intermittent field is pretty unlikely. Most generator problems are worn out or sticky brushes. The only way to tell about the brushes is to look at them. Does this generator have a removable band? I'll place my bet on regulator trouble.

Check voltage from the points wire to ground with the points closed, and with the points open. You don't need to know the exact voltage. A test light will work. You should have battery voltage (light on) with the points open and no voltage (light off) with the points closed. Let us know what you find.

The V6 is a Buick 3.8 punched out to 4.1 liters, and equipped with a four barrel carburetor. Having worked on a few of those back in the day I can confirm your suspicions. It wasn't just slow, it was ludicrous. Also, if that behemoth only weighs 3801 pounds I'll eat my hat.

Yep. On the older logos, the "P" is capitalized. Now you know why. Chryco is the Canadian equivalent.

If it passes the motoring test, there is a high probability the generator works. With the engine at something above idle, grounding the field should make the generator charge.

I don't know if this helps, but the transmission is the same architecture as the Buick (40 series only) transmission and some Oldsmobile transmissions. The shifter from a 36-38 Buick Special (40 series) would fit your transmission. So would one from an Olds from 1935 (and possibly earlier) until whatever year Olds got rid of the floor shift. Pontiac from late 1935 (late only) and 1937 and 1938 with floorshift should also fit. It doesn't matter whether Six or Eight. Some of these have different bends in the lever, so might not look correct, but would shift it.

1523109 AH series pump 1937 sixes and eights 1523110 AJ series double pump 1937 sixes and eights EDIT: Those are GM/Pontiac numbers. Found another source that says the AC numbers are 430 for single and 493 for double. My book is a 37 book, so if the numbers got changed or updated, I don't have that info. This surprises me. I thought all 37s had double pumps. I guess not. A double pump has 2 diaphragms, the first is a fuel pump, and the second is a booster for the vacuum powered windshield wipers. This is desirable, and would have been an extra cost option on any car that offered it both ways. Here is the single section pump on my 36 six. It is not the same series that would be on a 37 eight, but you can get the idea what a single pump looks like. There could be a glass sediment bowl, right side up or upside down that this doesn't have, but there is one line in, one line out, and one diaphragm. Here are some double pumps. These are for Buicks, but illustrate the idea. You can see two diaphragms, an upper and a lower (where there are a bunch of screws holding things together). In addition to lines for fuel in and fuel out adjacent to one diaphragm, there will be vacuum lines both in and out adjacent to the other diaphragm.

It's hard to tell from the pics. If it is a bead edge you need to bring up straight, you might be able to knock it out from the inside with something like a tire iron, or use one for a dolly. When it is getting close you might need to weld a piece of steel dowel of the correct inside radius.to the tip of a bar or tire iron. If there is a factory crease from the outside next to the bead, and it is up too high or distorted in spots, you might need to knock parts of it down using something like a large screwdriver to tap on, while someone else holds the steel-dowel-on-a-bar dolly.

LOL I must be blind, there it is right in the thread title. No need to apologize. All the best.

It's probably too early to talk about bondo (or whatever you want to call your favorite filler). We have only just begun to talk about getting the paint off, and haven't touched on body files, or guide coats of primer (or lacquer or whatever) to help flatten the ripples out. Nor have we talked about something nobody wants to talk about.... crown. When it comes time for filler, and hopefully not very much of it, a trick I have used is to put some fiberglass dye in the filler about the same color as the car. Yes you are playing chemist at that point. Yes it might ruin the job and cause a do-over, but It never did for me. The filler was always real thin so I don't know what would happen if it was thick. I don't do this kind of work much. You have been warned. If it works, you wont see bondo pink every time you get a rock chip.

Chrysler still makes their traditional heat riser solvent that they used for periodic heat riser maintenance. They call it "Rust Penetrant" instead of "heat riser solvent" these days. I believe there is a little graphite in it but probably not that much. It kept the heat risers freed up, and is good for getting stuck ones unstuck too. It is mainly a penetrating oil and probably the best penetrating oil ever. MOPAR 4318039AD. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-4318039AC-Penetrant/dp/B00BV4DBAU If you just want graphite to put on a working heat riser, Str8-8-Dave's suggestion sounds like a good one to me.

Probably because almost everyone's phone has a high resolution camera in it these days, with the ability to send the photos anywhere, and with nothing spent on film or developing. Gone are the days of driving 500 miles to find out "rust free" means "rust is included at no extra charge".

Huh? I'm not sure what you are getting at. Plenty of cars over the years have specified a minimum octane requirement in the owners manual. Original post said:

One thing you didn't ask, but I want to point out is that a dolly needs to be HEAVY to work correctly. In recent times I have seen cheap hammer and dolly sets in which the dollies are HOLLOW. Always get solid metal ones.

One more question, why is that hidem there? It looks to be tacked over a panel, and to not be hiding anything. Is it hiding nails that hold the panel on?

Good to know it's a nice drive up that way. Some nice routes lead to Sturgis, but if you live in WA like I do, the question quickly becomes "what then?" 212 out through Broadus, Monatana is not a place that would appeal to me in a slow antique. Then when you get to the West end there does not seem to be any way to avoid the interstate.

If you guys keep talking about Premium, or Super or whatever everyone is going to get confused. It would promote apples to apples comparisons If you call these out by octane and the percentage of Ethanol. If you travel across a good portion of the country (and I just did!) you will find some fairly bizarre fuel marketing, at least compared to the Pacific Northwest. Here in Washington "Unleaded" or "Regular Unleaded" is 87 octane, usually with Ethanol, but if is without they will advertise it as such and charge more. Mid-grade is 89 octane, priced above Unleaded, and was the supposed replacement for 88 octane "(Leaded) Regular" when that went away. Leaded Regular had been cheaper than unleaeded, so that made no sense but it is what they did. They must have needed something to put in the nozzle. It almost always contains Ethanol. Unleaded Super or Unleaded Premium is 92 octane, and occasionally 93. This is the most expensive, and almost always contains ethanol. Occasionally all 3 grades will be offered in non-ethanol versions, with a big sign saying so, but that is fairly rare. Now, if you travel to the center of the country...... In at least 2 states I drove through, 87 octane "Regular" (no Ethanol) and 87 octane "Super" or "Premium" (with 10 percent ethanol) were the two choices. Regular was more expensive than Super. I encountered 85.5 octane gas in a couple of places. That doesn't exist in Washington. This is just the tip of the iceberg for fuel labeling weirdness as you cross state lines. Given an hour to think about it and dig through my gas receipts I could probably come up with a lot more.

It's complicated. Yes it raises octane. Maybe that explains the crappiness of the fuel that makes up the rest of E10 blend, considering that in many areas both are 87 octane. E-10 blends. I drive my cars regularly and don't think I can depend on getting ethanol-free everywhere, so I figure I have to get the car running at it's best on E-10. E-10 has a well established reputation for turning to varnish faster than fuel without Ethanol. I have not done any controlled testing, but based on rotten gas I have encountered I think it is probably true. Even if it does not rot faster, Ethanol has a well established reputation for attacking fuel systems, promoting rust (and the attendant leaks and fuel sender problems) in gas tanks, attacking elastomers in carburetors and fuel pumps, and even attacking the metal castings. I try not to leave any E-10 in a car while it sits over the winter. If I didn't use a car much, and only used it locally, I wouldn't use E-10 at all.

Airbags for crash protection were an option on some GM cars in the early 70s. Very few had it.

I vaguely remember seeing cloth about like that in Buicks in the 70s. I think it's real. There must be a 70s Buick enthusiast in here who knows for sure.

Err... the chassis is from a full classic is it not? Looks like a lot of work though.

Something that's difficult to find tires for. I should know. I have a non-Buick that takes that size. I have been looking for some 34x4 tires good enough to roll the chassis around the shop for several years now.

I believe Buick's first hypoid axle was in the 1937 Special and Century.

In cases if rust, shock waves can help a lot. You have to finesse it though. it is easy to twist things off. You're right, it's all about the person using it.

I can't seem to connect the picture with what you are talking about. Care to elaborate? What does that look like? Does it come out looking serged, or do you attempt to pull the two pieces of hidem together while hiding the stitches?