mike6024

The Maine Motor Carriage Company at Free and South Streets IN 1901, F.O. Bailey even went into the automobile business, selling cars costing from $600 to $6,000, when Bailey and Allen formed the Maine Motor Carriage Company at the corner of Free and South Streets. While business was brisk, with sales of about $200,000 in just three years, they seemed to have misjudged the market for what was then seen as a passing fad. In 1906, young Neal W. Allen wrote as follows about the family automobile business: “In all probability the high water mark of the car business will be reached by about 1908. The market will soon be oversupplied with machines. When the present great demand for automobiles is past, the car business will settle down to somewhat the same basis as carriages and sleds.” Before that they made sleds and horse drawn carriages The Bailey Trotting Sleigh The Bailey Carriage Company c 1900 IN 1867, the year after the Great Fire, Henry Bailey died. Both the city and the Bailey Company would make an astonishing recovery, however. A rebuilding spirit of pride and determination took over as new Victorian business blocks of brick, stone, and cast iron arose Phoenix-like from the ashes. The Bailey Company was carried on in 1867 by Henry’s son, Frederick Orville Bailey, in new premises on Exchange Street. That same year, F.O. Bailey took as a partner a young farm boy from Poland, Maine named Charles W. Allen. A big but now-forgotten enterprise of the F.O. Bailey Company during the nineteenth century was the sleigh and racing sleds business, reputed to be among the best in the nation, and the manufacture of fine horse carriages from the company’s facilities at the corner of Market and Middle Streets. Anything and everything having to do with horses and the carriage trade was manufactured and sold here. Link - http://www.fobaileyrealestate.com/falmouthmainerealestatestory

You can search self-serve wrecking yards with this link called "Row52" Here's one in Virginia, that's about it at the moment - http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/RNDOMu2P4Dd8WxqU08MdDgKEY And there is "LKQ" self serve wrecking these locations - http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/?zip=36105&range=200 but you have to call them to see if they have any Pintos, there is no online inventory search Or any wrecking yard can check inventory of other yards for you by some computer inventory system they have, that is for non-self serve yards.

Looks better than a Miata!

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2016/12/15/aaca-withdraws-financial-support-from-aaca-museum-after-merger-negotiations-fall-through/ http://news.classiccars.com/aaca-museum-comments-merger-situation/ These two links help explain that situation. From the Hemmings piece, the museum when first formed needed nonprofit status which the club did not have at the time - As both club and museum officials acknowledged, not too many people – including members of the AACA – realized that the club and museum operated as separate entities. That situation arose at the time of the founding of the museum in 2003 due to the fact that the AACA was not then operating as a 501(c)3 non-profit. Only by establishing the museum as a non-profit could it accept monetary and vehicular donations.

This one is better That could be Beverly Drive back when the palm trees were smaller.

'27 ALF rear drive transaxle.

That bench seat can accommodate 4 adult males sitting side-by-side; keep your hands to yourself though, no hanky-panky.

http://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1j_Rb5rf7tyVUhDMGNhYmtqZWc What dose image 4793-1024 show? Is that clutch linkage? Brake linkage? Throttle? There's a rubber boot covered rod.

What size chain is that, or would it require? Is it size 60 maybe? Or larger? Size 60 chain has sprocket width 0.5 inch or 1/2 inch inside dimension for the links. And 0.75 inch pitch (distance between pins). I am wondering if new size 60 sprockets and chain would work with what you have. You could make a new long jack-shaft that spans the entire width of the frame, with 4 sprockets on it, to interface between the transaxle and the rear axle. The transaxle sprockets would connect to the inside pair of sprockets on the jackshaft. Then the outermost pair of sprockets on the jackshaft would connect to the rear axle. Chain specs - http://www.ocm.co.jp/en/pro/roller/03_01_07.pdf Easily available new sprockets, chain, and shafts - http://www.mcmaster.com/#roller-chain-sprockets/=15idcvm

I got a cashier's (bank) check from one of these gentlemen. It was written as a very good Washington Mutual Bank cashier's check. This was back before Washington Mutual went bankrupt. It was for $2,000 and it was sent to me by UPS envelope with tracking, not USPS. The item I had listed for sale was $200. I did not have an account at Washington Mutual, I had closed it and moved on to another bank at that time. I took it to Washington Mutual deliberately because it was written as one of theirs, as if the sender was an account holder of theirs. Gave it to a manager and said, "here, this is a fraud." He said, "How do you know?" and looked at it closely under a desk light. He didn't seem so sure, but took my word for it. So I asked him can't this be tracked? I have the UPS envelope it came in so there should be a sender for it. Thought maybe he would turn it as well as the additional information I had, like the emails and UPS sender over to authorities. He did not and just said these are very common. My instructions from the check sender was that a mistake was made and I was to Western Union the excess $1800 back, and was given a name and location to send that to. Then It changed and there was someone else in a different state I was to wire the $1800 to. Well I yanked him around on purpose, and thought I might gather enough information that something could be done to track and punish. Nothing came of it. The only satisfaction I got out of it is he wasted his time, and a few bucks on the UPS delivery. You would think UPS would want to know if they were being used to facilitate a fraud.

I'd like to see a close-up of the driven axle you plan to use. Also wondering how that '29 front drive ladder truck even steered, how the "jack shafts" were mounted and things like that; even with the picture of the complete rig it seems a mystery. La France Speedster http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Deysp2vYM4U

What shock absobers are those?

There is a 1930 patent assigned to Gabriel for a temperature compensating shock absorber with an arm on it. Patents are available online by searching Google. This shock gives the same damping, regardless of temperature, according to the patent. There are multiple "Thermostatic Compensating" shock absorber patents, but this is the only one assigned to Gabriel for that 1930 time period, at least as far as I found. Not sure if this helps at all, but here it is: SHOCK ABSORBER ance offered 'to the movement of the piston in said chamberby the liquid therein will be constant irrespective of wide variations in temperature. A further object of the invention is to provide means which will eliminate noise incidentalto the movements of the check valve which permits the flow of liquid from one side or end of the working chamber to the other under impact movements of the piston and which prevents such flow un-' der rebound movements of such piston. http://www.google.ch/patents/US1876552

And there was this? http://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/2013/10/22/the-1957-chevrolet-stock-car-competition-guide/

Is this purple one the same as the American Graffiti '55 Chevy? It was a sedan also, not a hardtop. Same car was also in the movie Two Lane Blacktop, which I've never seen actually. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziBlpNVDcxM http://unofficialamericangraffiti.weebly.com/the-1955-chevy.html

That looks like a sliding spline drive shaft without any splines. Or slip yoke I think it also may be called?

http://www.rmsothebys.com/hf16/hershey/lots/1946-delahaye-135-m-coach-by-guillore/1080171 Lot 145 1946 Delahaye 135 M Coach by Guilloré Chassis no. 800410 Sold for $77,000 95 bhp, 3,557 cc OHV inline six-cylinder engine with single Solex carburetor, Cotal electro-mechanical four-speed transmission, independent front suspension with transverse leaf spring, live rear axle with quarter-elliptical leaf-spring suspension, and four-wheel mechanically actuated Bendix drum brakes. Wheelbase: 114 in. Offered from 56 years of ownership Elegant and well-proportioned closed coachwork Equipped with its original engine Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) Full Classic The Delahaye’s 135, introduced in Paris in 1935, was a rare model that straddled both the pre-war and post-war eras. It boasted a brand new chassis with the same 3.6-liter, six-cylinder engine first seen in the earlier Type 138, and it proved to be a remarkable automobile upon its release. One year later, Delahaye introduced the 135 M, which offered a slightly larger engine with improved horsepower and was offered with a choice of single, dual, or triple carburetors. The 135 proved to more than hold its own in competition, as it swept the top six places at Marseilles in 1936. In the following years, leading up to the beginning of the Second World War, the 135 further cemented its reputation, taking 2nd overall at Le Mans in 1937 and 1st, 2nd, and 4th the following year. Outside of Le Mans, Delahaye 135s also took 1st at the Rallye Monte Carlo in 1937 and 1939. Following the conclusion of the War, production of the Type 135 resumed and continued with the same 3.6-liter engine used before the war. By this time, the company was nearing its end, as the French government had placed large taxes on cars with displacement over three liters. Even today, six decades after the final Delahaye was produced, the famous 135-series cars remain very highly regarded as some of the most compelling French automobiles ever produced. CHASSIS NUMBER 800410 The early post-war Delahaye 135 M offered here, chassis number 800410, was beautifully crafted by the famed French coachbuilder A. Guilloré as a five-passenger coach, with excellent and well-proportioned lines and styling. According to the current owner, the car was subsequently delivered to an original owner in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, where it was acquired in 1952 by Canadian enthusiast Ralph McNight and exported to Quebec. Subsequent Québécois owners were Jean Charest and Leon Frechon, before the current owner purchased the car in 1960. In over half a century of care, the car has had its original “matching numbers” engine gone over and fitted with new bearings, during a thorough overall of the chassis before a full body-off restoration, performed in 1993 by well-known Canadian craftsman Peter Fawcett. The body was refinished in a subtle and attractive two-tone metallic color scheme, which contrasts beautifully with the handsomely appointed red leather interior. The owner reports that the car has always been well maintained during his ownership, including recent re-lining of the brakes and new batteries. It is accompanied by a collection of original paperwork, including owner’s and parts manuals, and documentation of ownership back to 1953, as well as by various spares, including a rare manifold for the factory triple-carburetor option. Offered from an excellent long-term home, this stylish Delahaye would be a wonderful addition to the collection of any connoisseur of French motor cars.

Saw this Pratt and Whitney up close. thought the layout was fascinating, the intake, ignition layout, exhaust. 28 cylinders. Think it was 7 per circumference times 4 layers? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7Fe45fQpVk Here's another better video - http://abc7news.com/hobbies/unusual-tourist-attraction-found-in-st-helena/330144/

You will probably have to go with an electronic speedometer because it can be calibrated. Different than a mechanical one which is driven by a spinning square-ended cable. Hard to calibrate a mechanical speedometer, unless you have the original one in which case it would not be an issue. Electronic speedometers work in a completely different way. Small magnets attached to the car's rotating drive shaft sweep past tiny magnetic sensors (either reed switches or Hall-effect sensors) positioned nearby. Each time the magnets pass the sensors, they generate a brief pulse of electric current. An electronic circuit counts how quickly the pulses arrive and converts this into a speed, displayed electronically on an LCD display. Since the circuit is measuring the number of wheel rotations, it can also keep a count of how far you've traveled, doubling-up as an odometer (distance-measuring meter). Electronic speedometers can also display speeds with analog pointers and dials, just like traditional eddy-current speedos: in that case, the electronic circuit drives a highly controllable electric motor (called a stepper motor) that rotates the pointer through an appropriate angle. Electronic speedometers are more reliable and compact than mechanical ones and the motion sensors can be any distance from the display that shows you your speed, making them suitable for any kind of vehicle Autometer Guages - http://www.autometer.com/gauges.html Here's a video on how to calibrate an electronic gauge. All you need is to know a 2 mile distance of road. Push the button on the gauge at the start and again after driving for the 2 miles. Then the gauge calibrates so you have an accurate speedometer and odometer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5LvECehq3E

Lots of people seem to have that type of problem based on Web search. It's over my head. Seems to have something to do with trying to get to the BIOS by booting only to "Safe Mode" (never heard of that before) then looking for what "device driver" may be causing the problem. BTW make sure you have all externals unplugged when trying to start (boot up) you computer. That means disconnect any printers or anything like that you may have. ASUS troubleshooting Reference- Windows 10 - After I upgrade to Windows 10, my system boots to black screen, flashing screen, or reboots continuously The issue is most likely caused by the driver(s). Start to troubleshoot the issue by going into Safe Mode with Networking to update the driver(s). To access Safe Mode with Networking, you need to access Windows Recovery Environment (WinRE). WinRE starts automatically after detecting two consecutive unexpected shutdowns that occur within two minutes of boot completion or two consecutive failed attempts to start Windows. To do this, press the power button to power on your PC. Wait a few seconds after your PC is turned on, then press and hold the power button to shut down the PC. Repeat this power on and off action two times to trigger WinRE. Once in WinRE, choose Troubleshoot > Advanced options > Startup Settings > Enable Safe Mode with Networking. For detailed steps under WinRE, please click here. Once you are in Safe Mode with Networking, go to Windows Update to update the driver(s). Windows Update is the preferred first place to go for drivers. Simply launch it from Start > Settings > Update and Recovery > Windows Update and click Check for Updates. For more information, please click here. https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1013356/ General Windows 10 Reference - Computer will not boot to Windows 10 This article describes general troubleshooting of computers that are powering up correctly and passing the Dell BIOS screen at boot-up, but do not successfully boot to Microsoft Windows 10. Table of Contents: Video guide: My computer won't boot to Windows 10 Verify the Computer Finishes Initial Power-Up (POST) Unplug All External Devices Check for Specific Error Messages Reset the BIOS to Default Values Run a Computer Diagnostic Reset your Windows 10 Operating System Virus and Malware Troubleshooting Restore the Operating System to Factory Settings Step 4: Reset the BIOS to default values If your computer is set to first attempt to boot to another device, this may cause issues with successfully booting to Windows. To reset your computer's BIOS to factory defaults, perform the following steps: Restart the computer At the Dell logo during restart, tap the F2 key repeatedly until you see Entering Setup in the top right corner of the screen. Depending on the BIOS, you may need to press a key listed at the bottom of the screen to load default settings. Press ESC to exit the BIOS, and be sure to select Save and Exit to save your changes. Step 5: Reset your Windows 10 operating system If your system files have been damaged, a reset of Windows 10 reinstalls these files without damaging your data. After the third attempt to boot has failed, Windows 10 will automatically boot into the Windows Recovery Environment (WinRE). Follow these steps to reset Windows 10: At the Choose an option screen, select Troubleshoot. At the Troubleshoot screen, select Reset this PC. At the Reset this PC screen, select Keep my files. Select your user account and enter the password if prompted. Select Reset. Windows will perform the reset process Step 8: Restore the operating system to factory settings If the previous troubleshooting could not resolve your issue, it may be necessary to restore your computer to factory settings. To restore your computer's operating system and software to the original factory settings, refer to Dell Knowledge Base article, "Reset or reinstall Windows 10 on a Dell computer" http://www.dell.com/support/article/us/en/04/SLN297926

Yes CONTROL+ALT+DELETE. On older computers at least gives you access to the "BIOS" which is a control chip on the motherboard, so it gives you control over what the computer is going to be doing BEFORE the Windows operating system even gets booted up and functioning. So a useful dialog window should come up giving you options or telling you what is going on. Hold the on/off button till it shuts off. Then as soon as you turn it back on hold the CNTL and ALT keys, then with both those depressed hit the DEL key.

That's what my brother's '62 Skylark was, black with a red interior. A good color combination. He bought it new. A combination of these two pics, his was a 2 door hardtop, with the red interior like this convertible. Aluminum V-8 with a 4 speed stick on the floor. I even think there are some styling similarities with the '63 Corvair.

Corvairs came in red with red interior, but that's too much red. Red interior could go with either a black or a white exterior imo. Or a red car could have a black interior. Maybe red with a white interior. Red car with tan interior is common with Ferraris and Italian makes, red car with black dash and carpet, and tan seat covers / door panels. I realize it is all personal preference, but the way it is, it has too much red, and the way the red and white are intermixed is not good. There was an interior color code, R, for two-tone red/white interior : Interior paint codes:...1963: 2= Blue 3= Aqua 4= Fawn 5= Red 7= Black 8= Saddle R = White/Red. Must be what was swapped into this one because of the two-tone steering wheel, as someone else mentioned previously. I wonder what exterior color was typically used with the two-tone red/white interior? You could just leave it the way it is, but if the seats are white vinyl then the door panels should probably be changed to white vinyl. It would make more sense at least visually for all the vinyl to be the same color.

Here is some more info. Kind of confusing because how you read these tags seems to depend on which plant they came from. One question is what was the original interior paint? The interior has a color code for the vinyl and another for the interior painted surfaces. It seems in the case of Willow Run the interior paint is under the PAINT code, 900-5 means black exterior and 5=red interior paint. Other plants seemed to put the interior paint under the TRIM code. This one says TRIM 2-781. And Paint 900-5 http://www.corvairforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12097 http://www.sanjosechevys.org/Tech/tech_decode_corvair_60-64.htm http://1969corvair.com/techpages/Corvair_Tech_Page_VINs.html Example - TRIM 5-781 = RED This 3 digit code represents the interior color and seat type (781 applies to 900 Series Monza only, which is fitted with Bucket Seats). Interior: The 1962-63 Corvairs have an extra digit on the trim or paint section of the tag. WRN has the extra digit for interior paint on the Paint section. Oakland cars have the code on the trim line.... Interior paint codes:...1963: 2= Blue 3= Aqua 4= Fawn 5= Red 7= Black 8= Saddle R = White/Red. Decoding the Corvair VIN *Model years -1960-1964 Digit Position Represents #1----------------------------Year- 0=1960, 1=1961, 2=1962, 3=1963, 4=1964 #2 & #3-----------------------Trim Series- 05=500, 07=700, 09=900 06=Spyder #4 & #5-----------------------Model- 27=Coupe 35=Station Wagon 67=Convertible 69=Sedan #6-----------------------------Plant- W= Willow Run K= Kansas City, MO O= Oakland, CA L= Los Angeles, CA #7 - #12------------------------Sequential Production Number So I guess your Corvair here, based on the codes of the body tag should look like this one mentioned earlier, black with all red interior that sold for $7k. http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/detail/151372379169/