mcdarrunt

With no pics or even a reveal of what you have it's a shot in the dark but Ford and others used hot water (coolant) to heat the carb. A heat exchange plate would not be difficult to make.

Saw the original fitting off at a point a six point socket will go on the hex part of the fitting. I can't tell if there is room for a 3/8 impact wrench but there does appear to be room for a 3/8 butterfly wrench. 90% of the time the fitting will come out instantly and the other 10% the fitting still comes out but brings pot metal with it. It WILL work.

Two of the most fun cars I have owned is a 1966 Corvair with the Crown Engineering sbc V8 kit and an 88 Fiero with a 377ci sbc. Neither overheated and neither broke in half. They DID have extensive modiifications but ended up being machines with a near perfect 50/50 front to rear weight bias and were real corner carvers. Should have kept BOTH of them.

Ben, you won me over. Going back to the super dependable Turbo 350 and a set of 3.36 gears since this gear has worked well for you. Might make one more top speed run and see if letting the engine have a few more rev's will break the 93mph mark. Don't know why cause it only gets used at 67mph highway speed but when you're 82 you have to get a thrill from any opportunity that comes up.

My tiny wife thought she would like driving my 37 but she just can't handle the steering and brakes. I converted it to an automatic for her but now I am either going to a NV3500 5sp or maybe to an LS with a 4L60E automatic. I have everything on hand for either conversion but also have an 82 year old body with iffy vision. If I go the LS route the entire radiator cap to rear bumper auto set up will be for sale. It has run border to border and coast to coast with the 263 straight eight, Bendsten's adapter, turbo 350, and 1970 ElCamino (Chevelle) 2.73 rear end but now has a 2004R overdrive trans and 4.11 rear gear. Both give about a 2.80 final drive. The NV3500 would be the easiest and I would keep everything but the transmission but I would like the LS route if I can stay out of doctors offices and hospitals long enough to do the job. Keep in mind ALL IS VERY IFFY but if it does happen the entire 37 auto conversion will be priced at what it takes for the LS conversion less the price of the LS engine and electronic transmission which I already have. Of course the 37 with present set up can be test driven if it does happen.

My daily driven 98 Ranger 4 cyl/5sp has 405k miles (650k kilometers). All drive train is original and I would start on any length trip with it tomorrow. The parts store in Princeton, Texas has a 98 Ranger delivery truck with 880k miles (1,400,000 kilometers) with original engine but a couple of transmissions and a number of clutches----kid drivers.

The link is in the last line of the initial post but another comprehensive post is google "project geronimo" and then click on "rod-authority".

FiTech is now offering a throttle body fi unit for inline engines. It is a very good piece and under a grand. What is so attractive about the FiTech is all the electronic stuff is self contained within the body. There is a good read on a 261 Chevy install at chevyhardcore.com Geronimo Project.

About 50 miles north of Dallas, TX

I used a 2004R under my 37 Special for the stated size reason. Would have had to do serious trimming of the X member for a 700R4. Used a Bendsten's adapter behind a 263 straight eight. Without the torque tube I had to make up trailing arms to position the open drive rear end because the 37 leaf springs have swinging shackles at BOTH ends.

The last car we used R12 on was a 1930 Plymouth where with no grill so a condenser would look super ugly. Used an under car small condenser with an attached fan. No way 134A would work with that small of condenser but R12 cools a 4dr sedan just fine. Off topic but I have (2) R12 recovery machines with one jug between the two. $200 takes them both but they are heavy so shipping would be pricey.

I drive my 1937 Special with a 1952 263 straight eight a lot and had two manifolds crack. I knew nothing about special lube and washers so my cure was a complete shot in the dark but has worked fine for the last 20 years. Did away with gaskets and alignment rings and used red high temp RTV silicone. Haven't had an exhaust or intake leak for at least 20 years. I'm sure the manifold is free to "creep" between hot and cold cycles.

When we think long trip we think 37 Buick. A 1,000 to 2,000 mile trip is routine. After the 1937 engine wore out I put in a 1952 263 straight eight and automatic transmission so wife can help with the driving but it's pretty much original except for 12v and radial tires. It WILL get front disc brakes after our episode in Kansas City where the drum brakes went on strike during a monsoon. The usual question from men is "what year/make" while women ask "you drove that all the way from Texas?" Modern car is just a road trip while the 37 is a conversation at every gas pump, restaurant, motel, etc. Nearly everybody has a father or grandfather that had one "just like it".

Since it has no mounting ears (brackets) it must be held in place with a band and the most used of this type was on the 49-53 Ford 8BA flat head V8 engine. Could you get info off of the tag if you cleaned it?

Glad you found one. For years I got authentic looking tags from a trophy shop when I provided a title and sample tag. They do stamping, raised stamping, engraving, and all types of finishes on trophies and presentation items so a car tag is an easy job for them.

To each his own but if 54 has an 8BA design distributor and a 3 bolt carburetor it looks to me like Ford wanted to use up some left over flat head parts. I am a tiny bit familiar with engines since we make them from scratch; not just rebuild or overhaul them. Pic of a block just out of the HAAS 5 axis mill and a twin plug hemi head for a BB Chevy. Also where these engines end up. Finally, I DO make mistakes (the twin plug head is in the scrap bin) and any time I I think I'm perfect I go over to the pond across the road and try to walk across it___sank every time so far. Keep it light.

Get you some Cunifer ( or any copper/nickel) tubing. It doesn't corrode from water and is easily bent to shape without a tubing bender. Volvo started using it a good while back and they are the safety leader.

The 54 239 is half flat head and half OHV and generally not considered the best of the Y-blocks. I'd move up to a 55 272 which is a much better engine and still 6v.

A Thompson Sub Machine gun and a bank money bag.

I don't know if it is a rumble lid or just a deck lid but my friend found a reproduction for his 32 coupe that had the pickup bed insert. We had to tweak it a little for proper fit but that may have been due to it having a pickup bed in it for 50 years. If you PM me I'll connect you with him.

Have you tried Lare's in Minnesota?

I am kind of a lift nut and now that I have both a drive on and a two post Rotary lift I want more. Allard Machine in Ennis, Texas has maybe five single post lifts that are flush with the floor to use with the super low sprint cars they work on. Dusty's Rod Shop on Baily, Texas has a drive on lift that is flush with the floor (no ramps) so the chopped, dropped, and bagged cars they build can roll on with a 1/4" ground clearance. Now to the crown jewel of lifts, which of course are illegal to sell, is the one owned by a muffler shop in Bonham, Texas. It has two wheel troughs, one stationary and one on rollers. You drive through the stationary one till the front wheels fall into the rolling one and keep driving till the rear wheels drop into the stationary one. (what could possibly go wrong here?). This leaves the entire bottom of the vehicle wide open with no arms or runners in the way. The shop also has a two post lift but I wait till the "suicide" lift is open just so I can watch and covet.

My 37 Buick Special has an 120mph top speed on the speedometer face so one time I plugged in my GPS and opened it up for two miles on a dead level road. It topped out at 93mph on the accurate gps and 105 on the optimistic speedometer. This was on a paved road and radial tires so I'd guess half that speed was close to the norm in 37 with bias ply tires, tubes, and a gravel road. Had TERRIBLE wind noise at that speed.

My memory is fuzzy about yesterday so take what I remember from 1967 with a grain of salt. IIRC my partners 1967 Mercury Cyclone GT with a 427 (medium riser?) had a 160mph speedo which I think was just a factory installed Stewart Warner unit with maybe the "SW" deleted from the face. I do remember it's speedo showed a few more mph than some of the other muscle/super cars so they must have had 150mph units. Many years later I stuck me head in a GT40 at a Ford dealer and it's speedo was over 200, maybe 225 or 250. So far out of my price range I didn't look that closely.

All's cool guys; did not realize project was first posted in General Discussion.