mcdarrunt

Did I miss read what this section of the forum is called? I swear it says MODIFIED, that's M-O-D-I-F-I-E-D. It has a V8. that's a modification. An open rear--Ditto. Automatic--Ditto. I guess all some will accept is fuzzy dice and a locking gas cap but in my opinion if you don't want to see real changes that took original thought and even some design/engineering then maybe you shouldn't click the "Modified" heading. I promise I won't click onto your pre-37 rides and make snide comments about "termite farms" even though I'm thinking it.

A little giggle about my 37 Special trailing arms. When I put the open rear end in I welded spring perches in the correct position and bolted the housing in place---all done on the drive on lift so weight could be on rear for wheel and shock positioning. Moved over to two post lift to rebuild the brakes and when I raised the car one wheel was way forward in the fender opening and other way back---something WRONG. A little checking showed a 37 Buick has shackles on BOTH ends of the spring thus the trailing arms. So much for a "Professional" rating.

I'm in my 80's and the only one left in the shop licensed for R-12 About the only use anymore is for street rods that only have room for a small condenser. If room for a large enough condenser everything is 134A. One thing about the 12 is you only need a vacuum pump and a sight glass in the high pressure line although a manifold gauge was handy for leak down check. When the bubbles disappeared in the sight glass you were at max cool. I have two R12 recovery machines, one with tank, that need a new home (cheap) but don't expect a mob at the door when I list them. Anyone remember the propane torch with a "sniffer" hose for leak checking?

I absolutely refuse to buy a car that does not have a shift on the column, a bench seat, cloth interior, and a flat floor. I can afford pretty much what is offered but till I can BUY WHAT I WANT it's a no sale. Bought my wife a new Infinity and after a 3000 mile trip of sitting down in a well where I couldn't stretch a leg over onto the passenger side, having the console rub the side of my leg raw, and leather keeping my shirt wet I sold it for 10k less as soon as I got home. Did a search and the last American car offered with what I want was an Impala but we like a Buick better so 2005 is the limit. I bought her three of them several years ago with 70-90k miles on them and put two in storage. We are in our 80's and the way that 3.8 engine is still purring along with 170k miles I figure the stored ones will get auctioned off after we die. My 98 Ranger has 374k miles on it but until I can get a single cab long bed TRUCK instead of a 4dr sedan with a tiny box in back it's another no sale.

We have THREE 34 Chevy's in the shop right now and a different approach on each. A 2dr that is factory stock, a 2dr Town Sedan which has the integral trunk, and my 5w Coupe. The Town Sedan is a hybrid with floor, door pillars, and inner door skin being converted to steel, and the coupe now having zero wood. The total steel conversion is a lot of work and probably not practical to pay to have done but once done I wouldn't trade it for a half dozen termite farms. All three look like 34 Chevy's and not chopped and dropped radicals..

I'm sure Matt could give a definitive answer but my customers are opting for "updates" more and more. 12v and radial tires lead the way and hydraulic brakes are the norm. Many are going away from the old babbit/splash/dipper engines and we now very seldom work on these. A-C is increasing rapidly as well as power options. When finding a car for a customer they say they will pay extra if NOT stock but rather a resto rod. Any others noticing this?

Ben gave me a little (deserved) dig on not finishing the straight eight serperntine but of course I plead a degree of innocence. As I was staring one for ME the 235/261 Chevy guys came out of the woodwork wanting one for their I6 Stovebolts and as the engines are very similar except for cylinder count I fabbed up a few. The front of the two engines are alike so the pics of the first protos may be of some help to one contemplating giving it a shot. I'm terrible about not keeping updated with photos but the idea is well developed and they have been trouble free. 1st a bit of lathe work on both the V crank pulley and water pump pulley; all the accessories have the ribbed serp pulleys. 2nd is set up mouned 3rd is first trial---all studs left long for final alignment shims and much heavier idler bracket used. 4th is details of alt mount 5th is details of a/c comp mount---later a plate to the factory generator mount that accepts all 4 comp bolts I'm terrible on "how to" but do have details.

Measure the spindle bolt (king pin) then go online and buy a ream. If there is an old time garage near you that has a Sunnen machine they are adjustable and can do all piston wrist pin bores and most spindles.

Ben, You may be more ready than me---still shift problems. I WILL go since I can pick my shift points by manually moving the shift lever. I hope you can make it and of course the shop is at your disposal for any "tweaks" you may need. Shop is just 12 miles from the starting point in Farmersville. Complimentary breakfast provided but most interesting to us old farts is the Audie Murphy Memorial smack dab in the middle of main street. His sister still lives there.

Sad to see it go. Visited both the Rosanky and San Marcos museums and could easily spend a day at either. I think the Rosanky one had the greatest variety but I'm sure some of them had to be culled when the move was made to San Marcos. From the Rosanky location I have a picture of a 1930(?) French car, maybe a Peugot or Citroen that had the smallest 4 cylinder engine I've ever seen; my billfold covers the entire top of the flat head 4 engine. I built the 1954 Olsmobile 98 Starfire convertible being sold from a very rough car and an employee told me it was one of his favorite "drivers". The Oldsmobile Club shows only 11 in existence.

Don't be fooled---He's not 80; He's 81 years, 6 months, and 26 days old. Ask me how I know? Is NOT an old man that putts along in the right lane so whatever the traffic is running at the old Buick runs right with it with zero strain.

When someone wants to sell me a high dollar item then It will be ME running the show. I don't NEED your Duesenberg or 56 Gullwing Mercedes at an amount that's not even six figures but apparently you NEED my money so here's how it's going to go down. If you don't meet every one of my requests the deals off. I will set up a bank account with the agreed upon price deposited into it and one that requires TWO ( yours and mine) signatures to make a withdrawal and must be made out at the tellers window only. In other words you are 100% assured the money is there. You will deliver the vehicle to my shop where it will be inspected, the title and numbers run, and workmanship examined. Then with the title in hand we will go to my bank and co-sign a check for the agreed amount and at which time the account will be closed. I have NEVER had a super deal show up in a truck or on a trailer.

No, a small chrome push button on the left lower part of the dash.

I wish you luck but keep in mind what owners have invested in a high dollar restoration. $12,000 paint jobs don't mate well with belt buckles, high heels, and unpaved roads. If you specify "Driver" class old car then responses may be better. We have a "driver" Taxi that was built to be used for proms and weddings with the usual fee of $125 which of course wouldn't even begin to cover any damage to the exterior or interior but in a small town ( pop. 635) there is a real need for such. Not a discouragement but a window onto how many feel about their "Babies". Picture of Prom Taxi.

My very first circle track car---a 37 Terraplane Coupe with a 308 Hornet engine with the export kit. The 302 Jimmy's and 296 stroker Flathead Fords couldn't run with it.

I have everything from the rear of the block to rear end out of my 37 Special. The transmission is inside my storage shed and the rear end is out back in the scrap pile. Been there for several years and if the open end of the torque tube is facing up it's probably junk but shipping cost would transfer it to your possession. At the time it was pulled I had just made a 2000 mile trip and decided the 4.44 gears had to go.

Got two racks and plenty of gear lube so if you can leak your way to Trenton you can top it off and do the same after the Bug Tussle Trek. I guess that would be in 100 mile segments. Can't help with the oil on floor pan and back end but do have a pressure washer.

Ben, Haven't checked the Modified site for a couple months (at least) and after reading about off setting the sleeve in the offending cylinder I had to go to the storage shed to see if the 263's have a floating wrist pin---they do. IIRC there is at least an 1/8" between the rod top sides and the inside of the wrist pin boss; way enough for sleeve offset. Finally got the automatic OD problem in my 37 solved for a measly $350 plus another set of bands and clutches so ready for Bug Tussle. That *%#& TV (throttle valve) cable now just selects shift points and has nothing to do with clutch/band pressure since I'm running a TCI constant pressure valve body (that's where the $'s went". My hind sight is on par with you on "shoulda done". A/C kept up fine with this months111 degrees so the last weekend in August doesn't scare me a bit.

Had tears in my eyes from laughing. Better outcome than when I tried to put my wife onto a standard transmission---total disaster. I had a Soviet Union jeep back in the 60's when there was no trade between the USSR and the U.S. Guy that worked for Collins Radio brought it back from South America and shortly after broke the transmission. I stuck a SB Ford in it with a 3sp manual trans, screwed the idle up to about 800rpm, showed her how to use a clutch, and got out of the way. Even with the factory 5.14 rear gear she managed to kill the engine every time while trying to get underway. For my blood presser and our marriage never tried again; thus the auto in the old Buick.

Being a 4dr kills it. As far as condition I would like to get ones in that good of shape but they must be what others WANT. It takes just as much time and money to grind rust on a 54 Chevy 4dr as it does on a 32 Pierce Arrow. Pictures are before and after of a 54 Olds 98 Starfire Convertible which makes your 54 look cherry but then the Oldsmobile Club of America shows only eleven left in existence---big difference. The 55k it brought at sale did not cover the the resto cost.

Yes, it is a Nomad and I also have a thing about turquoise 55's. The Nomad pictured above has a 502 Big Block and the turquoise Nomad under construction has a small block. They also have a factory correct 55 coupe little sister that is turquoise of course. I'm not rich, I just start with VERY rough (and cheap) projects as the build is what I like the most. All were done in my shop but most have to go to finance the next project.

If you are undecided why not just get one of each? Or better yet a 55 which makes both 57's look like an open septic tank---from a very biased view.

Does the car have an OHV engine or flathead, does it have spindle bolts or ball joints, does the top cover curtain use snaps or zippers, is there a translucent top on the top of the speedometer housing, would take about two seconds to differentiate between a 52 and 54; but then there were no 52 Skyliners. I was the source for replacement plexiglass tops until I passed the job onto Pollard Plastics in Dallas, which to my knowledge still makes them. Greg, at Pollard, designed the mold and my friend and I the trimming jig---both tricky but they fit better than the factory ones. Be ready to expand your profanity list if you have to work the rubber gasket down into place.

Overdrive troubles SOLVED. TCI has a "constant" pressure valve body that completely does away with getting the TV (detent or kickdown) cable adjusted just right. The cable becomes just a shift point selector and has no bearing on throttle valve pressure---it's constant so no more slipping. I have presented this since the 2004R overdrive automatic fits a 37 Special without frame or floor modification, is probably cheaper than the Gear Venders OD, and MOST important---no more "I wish I could drive this car" wife comments.

We just press in a bushing that is close and the bring it out to the exact size needed on our Sunnen hone. If it can fit wrist pins to connecting rods and pistons to a fraction of a thousandth then it can sure fit brake shaft bushings. Find an engine builder near you and I'm sure he would do the job.