mcdarrunt

Ben, That was when I had the 2.73 gears behind the Turbo 350. It was such a terrible combination that I don't think I could present it as a real "driver". On completely flat roads (like around here) it did nudge the 17 mark but was impractical on any other terrain. It was ALWAYS a 2.73 so starts were sluggish---0 to 60 time was done with a calendar but now with the 4.11 rear it is peppy and with the 2.88 final in o/d it is also a cruiser. I'm ball parking the 15mpg figure since it is geared deeper in straight drive and the final drive is also slightly deeper geared. I left my Garmin at my nephews place but when he sends it back to me I'll get some good figures. If I get real curious I can have one of the young guys in the shop use that wiz-bang thing they carry in their pocket do the miles and speed for me. My phone just has buttons and a flip open lid.

My 37 Special 4dr has the same body as a 38 so wind drag should be the same. I tuned it with an Allen engine analyser which had an exhaust sniffer for dead on carb sttings as well as displaying the condition of the entire ignition system, removed the sun visor, had radial tires with 40psi, Torco lube in gear boxes, 190 degree T-stat, front end aligned with just 1/8" toe in, drivers side only wsw, and taking a tip from the air racers; a good wax job. It got 12.8 mpg at 63mph using a gps speedometer for dead on accuracy. Have not checked it since the 4.44 rear was replaced with a 4.11 rear and open drive line with overdrive trans which gives a 2.88 final in o/d. I'm certain it gets at least 15 or maybe even 16mpg going by how many miles it is between fill ups.

There is a "Buick Modified" section on this site so you are not alone in choosing this route. The purist's cars are fine for parades and putting around but if you want to DRIVE it a lot then definitely up date it. I drove my 37 Special for a couple of years with a 4.44 rear end, vacuum wipers, drum brakes, etc, you get the picture and it was a great parade car but sucked as a 70mph driver. Now with a 1952 263 straight eight, 2004R overdrive automatic, 4.11 rear, electric wipers, p/s, p/b, a/c, tube shocks, larger sway bars, it is a left lane cruiser that you can relax in rather than worry about some idiot coming up behind you doing 80 while your doing 50. Been coast to coast and border to border and usually clock around 8,000 miles a year. The only way a non expert can tell it is not a factory 37 Special without diving under it is the sealed beam head lights and radial tires. Looks stock inside and out but is all modern underneath. Didn't want a "chopped and dropped" abortion but did want a COMFORTABLE driver. A heads up: a 30's car will always have wind noise at 70, it's unavoidable.

I like a trouble free electronic distributor that ANY parts store sells parts for and that is the GM HEI distributor. They have been used in many different cars that have been driven for billions of miles and are just a trouble free unit. If you have or have access to a lathe one can be modified to work with just about any engine. If no machines, then Davis Unlimited Ignition (DUI) makes ready to run ones for many engines but they are a bit pricey---$350 for the 409 engine. They are big and ugly so if you're a stickler on appearance then it's best to pass. On my Buick straight eight I used an Oldsmobile case and Chevy shaft to fit it on the engine. The old Buick has traveled coast to coast and border to border over the last 30 years and dizzy is still going strong. Picture of the Buick and a 409 that's getting the same unit.

I agree and we don't guarantee no paint damage if clip is not removed but owner absolutely insisted it not be removed. I'm sure it made his bill higher. Here is a photo showing how open the pan is for removal for a bearing check.

As suggested, a leak down test will give a reliable indicator of the top end condition and the oil pan looks to have good access on the 41 120 on our rack right now. It just got a rebuilt engine that we R&R'd without pulling the front clip and it went surprisingly easy. What DID NOT go easy was stabbing the OD transmission and hooking up that *#@% throw out bearing return spring. Threw this in so that if you don't really, really need a new clutch, I'd pass.

I keep long (high) nuts in a drawer that I have pulled off of leaf spring U-bolts. Most are 1/2" fine but some compacts had 7/16 and big trucks use 9/16 and larger. They are usually TOO long but are easy to face off on a lathe.

Several vendors sell tag blanks so just get one and stamp the number on the title on it. Be aware that this number is also stamped on the top of the frame rail and non matching numbers can spell trouble. We do this when a tag gets destroyed by the sandblaster and have no problem but some states might want some sort of official to do or inspect the stamping. Your 50 model 3100 will have the letters "HP" before the serial number.

This site does have a " Buick Modified" section so not everyone is a purist. I drive and drive and drive my cars so they start to get modified the same day I buy them. Suspension, brakes, and steering don't make it through the first month. I don't miss knee action, mechanical/drum, or worm gear. Everything goes 12v, alternator, electric wipers, p/s, p/b, and if the wife wants to drive it--automatic. If one can drum up a few more bucks I'd ditch the 350 sbc and go with an LS engine. I firmly believe this engine is the very best of any brand built from the beginning up to right now. Name all the ones you know with 430hp, get 25 mpg, can idle all day long with temperature 100 plus and the a/c on, and do so for a quarter million miles. Add the fact you don't need a mechanic to find what's wrong, just plug in the code reader and then pick up the parts needed from any FLAPS near you. I want mine to look exactly like it did when new both inside and out but also be to where I can go out right now and head for Anchorage, Alaska. Slap a Chevy in the old Buick and drive the snot out of it. As long as the hoods down only you know and you can have a ball while the purist nuts are hunting for cotter pins with the correct plating.

I used the very simple lost wax method to make knobs for IIRC a 38 LaSalle. You can do a search on this but if doing the same today I'd definitely go with 3D printing.

I had a restoration shop for many years and sought out parts from many sources which brought the weasels out of their holes. My brothers son runs the shop now and my sisters son has an international trucking company ( U.S., Northern Mexico, and Canada). I mentioned that I'd like to check on a part offered to the trucking nephew and he said anytime I wanted something checked to contact central dispatch and see when a truck would be in the area of the part. After I told the ones with rare parts at a low price I could have someone there to view the part and then hand them the cash in person the parts offers have dropped to nearly zero. Of course the trucks can't run around side streets and also get off schedule but legitimate sellers usually will take a part to one of his terminals, a truck stop, or a Walmart parking lot---after all it IS cash. Feel welcome to use this or some variation on an iffy deal; it works.

I think the first thing you should do if 5k didn't buy that 2k truck is to buy a Garth Brooks recording of "Unanswered Prayers" and listen to it repeatedly.

On an orphan swap one often has to fabricate many things from just angle, plate, and tubing so I hope you have tools and skills. One place you might check is Chassis Engineering in West Branch, Iowa. They make many conversion kits and also universal ones. On the universal one they will tell you what measurements they need and send a kit that will probably need a little tweaking but not a big deal. CE is about the only one that offers a choice of weld in or bolt in for most all it's kits. As far as suspension is concerned I'd first check out parts for the station wagon as these were often heavier duty. Your present suspension was designed for a possible load of six passengers plus a safety margin so it MIGHT work with just a driver but that's a big if.

I have a 9000# Rotary two post lift and a 12,000# Rotary four post with rolling jacks. I use the drive on lift ten times as often as the two post. One ramp is a sliding one so it can be adjusted to where the tires are on the inside edge and out of the way. Brakes, suspension, exhaust, and everything but raising a body can be done faster and safer than on the two post. There is a muffler shop in Bonham Texas that has a now illegal lift (to sell) that I am going to get measurements from and build. It has a trough the front wheels drop into that rolls all the way to the front of the lift frame at which point the rear wheels drop into a second stationary trough at the rear of the lift frame. This leaves the entire underside wide open with no arms or ramps in the way---ideal for exhaust work. At a chop and drop shop in Bailey Texas the low rider shop was built with a ledge in the floor the exact height of his drive on lift so cars with 1/2 inch of ground clearance can drive right on it. Another idea I want to copy. When I die they can sell the two post lift but I want the four post one buried with me.

You old car puritans are the ones that make me puke. I'll be darned if I'll spend weeks trying to find the exact paint color of a heater box or the right plating on a bolt or nut. For gosh sake, build the cars to DRIVE or else settle for a framed picture. Nothing is as worthless in my opinion as a concours car that must not have a pebble in the tire tread. I'm 80 years old and drove the old cars and they were noisy, smelly, rolled, pitched, and wouldn't stop. We just made a lap of the U.S. in our 37 Buick Special (1952 263 straight 8, a/c, automatic, p/s, p/b, 12v, alternator, turn signals, halogen/led lights, and all the other non purist doo dads) and 99% of the people in the 20 states we were in have now seen a 37 Buick (in their eyes) and not a one gave a darn if a cotter pin was plated or non plated. Cruised in the left lane and if any of you want to join the next lap in your "correct" ride you can sign up now. Some people have their cars to ENJOY and not brag about how long it took them to find the exact correct heater door knob. You be the judge if the car is "Butchered".

(1) Disconnect 6v Battery cable and main feed wire from solenoid. Now everything is dead: lights, instruments, horn, EVERYTHING. (2) Hook 12v battery cable to solenoid where 6v cable was and a 12v ground to the engine. (3) Tie the 6v battery cable that was on the solenoid to the main feed wire with a short bolt. You now have a car that is all on 6v except for the starter. You can start it as many times as you want and leave it running for as long as needed with no harm. Sometimes a 6v solenoid will stick on 12v so we use a 12v solenoid and activate it with a short 12v jumper.

Ben, I got one sorted out for a 235 Chevy so I think a lot of the same principle will work on a Buick straight eight. Since we are the EXACT same age maybe you can identify with 80 year old bones preferring Texas October weather over July/August weather. Shot of the 235 mock up---later brackets were heavier duty. I just cut the "V" pulleys off on the lathe and there cut serpentine ones so they were a near press fit on the V pulley hubs and gave each one several tacks. Later set the lathe at drive shaft welding speed and run a continuous bead. Got very little warping so could tap true with brass hammer when pulley was still mounted to lathe.

That was my old Buick, my shop is right across 121 from Sadler's where the sale was.

Yes, has the Bendtson adapter and open drive with a 1970 El Camino rear end. I pass through Luella at least twice a week picking parts up in Sherman (shops in Trenton) so if you ever want to look it over just give a shout. There is a guy next to the closed down gas station in Luella that had some really nice cars; is that you? Evan

When we went for our long jaunt the 263 with a Turbo 350 paired with a 2.73 rear end had limitations (real dog) when not on the Texas flat lands. Now have a 4.11 rear with a 2004R overdrive automatic. Why the 200?---because it fits right where the Turb0 350 was and with just 224#ft of torque the 263 straight eight won't put any demand on it that it wasn't designed for. Won't be ready for the Bug Tussle Trek (first miss in 40 years) but will head to the Ozarks in mid-September to give it a test. Got to work since 4.11's with OD was the standard for years. Look forward to staying in the traffic lane rather than limping along in 2nd on the shoulder and that will be a whole lot less embarrassing. Will be a 2.88 final in OD so will still be a left lane cruiser. When in straight drive 60mph will be 3000rpm which the 263 can handle, especially for limited distances.

You are starting an adventure that will stick with you the rest of your life, see fantastic cars/bikes/planes, meet people that are interesting and some that are generous beyond description. When gas dropped into the two dollar range my wife and I decided to take our long talked about "Lap of America". Fired up the old 13mpg 37 Buick (we cheated, it has a/c) and off we went. Never a day comes up now that something won't trigger a memory and bring back a warm satisfying feeling. From Dallas down to I10 then up I95, across I90, down the Pacific Coast Highway, and finally back to Texas on I10. Only one blip and that was a fuel pump of which I had an extra. This was in the mountains (Grand Tetons) and after I raised the hood I don't think a single car passed without stopping and someone offering to help an old (80) man. If your planning a week then budget for four because of all the side trips and with an old car gas stops will take 45 minutes instead of 10, and lunch stops will take at least an hour since everyone's Dad/Granddad/Uncle/ Friend/ Neighbor had a car just like it and you get the details; warmly accepted. I wish I was convoying with you, good luck.

Back in the 50's we pulled our race car, a 1932 Essex (by Hudson), with a 47 Hudson pickup with a 308 Twin H Power engine. Really good truck and we didn't hold up traffic. Your truck is nicer now than our 10 year old one was in 57.

I drive my 37 Buick A LOT but a customer brought in a 40 Packard for steering box work and darn it's a great car. After box work took the Packard for several drives and very impressed by the solid feel and whisper quiet straight eight. Both the Buick and Packard are in about equal condition but one can see why the Packard brought more money when new. I have swim fins for feet and getting them through the gap between front corner of seat and door pillar is often a hassle but Packard slanted the bottom of the door forward and this gives a big gap for foot room---clever design.

It should be easy to see if it has an air cooled engine which all Franklins did.

Hey Greg, No problem but once again the subject of DOLLARS was brought up and this is NOT why I dive off in the deep end of the pool on ones that will never return a fraction of the cost. I just like the satisfaction of bringing an "impossible" one back from the grave. This is my only hobby and I probably spend no more than others do on theirs. No travel, no vacations, no parties or gatherings, none of the latest electronics (I still have a flip phone) or any other things "normal" people do or have. It keeps me from vegetating on the couch in front of a TV and gives a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment when finished even though when done I don't care to drive one a single mile. Here is one that came out of a wash gulley in Minnesota and ended up in Dick"s Car Museum in San Marcos Texas. It kept me off my dead butt for two years and is not the worse one the dogs have drug in. Again, I don't care about the value or the popularity,just the challenge.