Bush Mechanic

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About Bush Mechanic

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    Tasmania, Aus.

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  1. Bloo, I some-how recalled that the OP had posted previously on another question, and revealed the make and model concerned. Perhaps not mentioned in this topic. The rather unusual vehicle, (for this site), caught my attention.
  2. I see the OP's problem. Big end inserts, pistons, rings, rods, no problem. But main bearing inserts for his E493A Ford Prefect do not seem to be available. At least from those small-Ford suppliers in the UK which I looked at.
  3. Whoops, posted that in the wrong place. Working off a phone. You will know where it belongs, at least.
  4. Phillip, new main bearings for the 1172cc Prefect engine are available online for around €23 plus freight. Available in std., .010", and .020" under-size at least. If the crank is definitely re-ground, I suggest having it checked and measured, if size stampings are not obvious, and treating it to a new set of shells. To answer your question, it is not usual or normally advisable to fit used shells on a reground crank. However, if a supply of used shells of the same under-size is at hand, careful checking and measuring with plasti-guage may just turn up a usable set within clearance specs. If they are not within spec. right across the journal, they would not last, and may damage the crank.
  5. Electrics are not my strong point either, but it reads as though a short circuit is draining the batteries fairly rapidly. Is there a sparking at the battery terminals when connecting them? ( All switches turned off). If yes, you could pull the fuses , connect volt meter across the battery, and insert the fuses one at a time, looking for voltage drop. That would give an indication of where to start looking.
  6. That exposed crank machine looks interesting. The SMOKESTAK, (no C), forum is a good starting point for info on these engines. There are many active clubs in Australia, with up to a dozen engines running at one time at the agricultural fairs. I attended an Australia wide get-together here in Tasmania, and realised that much of the machinery that I use daily is 'collectable'!
  7. We call it a speed brace in Australia. Use it most days.
  8. Eric Gange's Garage, near where I grew up, had this problem sorted. Remove tank, drain petrol, face tank across the yard toward the paling fence, and insert lighted oxy torch in the filler neck. When it bounced off the fence, it was safe to weld on. Eric was a bit rough around the edges, but he could fix most things. Personally, I'm a little more circumspect, and leave the garden hose running in the tank for a while, THEN use Eric's test. Haven't had one take off yet, but I do hold my breath.
  9. Hi, Mike. From this distance it appears that the area you suggested lightening is actually the counterweight. The arrow may be deceiving me, though. I would leave the weight as it is. The little engine might appreciate some flywheel, when it meets a hill.
  10. Hey, Mike, you are going great. I do enjoy your posts. I think the bolt idea is sound, if you can find clearance, and enough meat left in the job, but they would need to be virtually a press fit in the holes if you are going down that road. Properly riveted, they would swell right through to create a very tight job. And as Joe said, do them one at a time before you remove the originals. Remove one, replace, then move on to the next. It will then retain the original balance. Hot riveting pulls the two halves together nicely, but when it cools the shaft fit goes away. That looks like a cold rivet job, to me, starting off with a very snug rivet fit. And to set the record straight, yes, going like a shower of sh.. does mean it's going like a cut snake. And if the poo hits the fan, it's definitely all gone pear shaped. Pretty logical, I reckon.
  11. JP pistons, in SA. Their business is now called Nornda Automotive, P/L, Ph 08 8261 7222. They manufacture pistons, rings, etc for older vehicles to order. I believe that for some US cars, they make the parts exclusively for US suppliers, and won't sell them direct. Well worth a try. I believe they make pistons for Egge, as well.
  12. Nothing personal, Ed, but I think it is a shame that Mexico has been given such a negative image by the US press. That country is starving for the tourist dollar, mainly due to negative press reports in the US. Sure, it can be a bit edgy in places, mainly near the US border, but statistically, US cities are more dangerous than those in Mexico. We spoke to many Americans living up against the Mexican border, and almost without exception they were afraid to go over and visit, due to the press reports. All views were here-say. And if you read the state department travel guidelines, you wouldn't go far from home. (The same applies here in Aus). We found it a really interesting culture, and the most friendly folk you would care to meet anywhere. Many of them beseeched us to spread the word in the States, as their tourism industry was in such a bad way. We refused the armed convoys close to the Texas border, due to their high speeds, and did our own thing, travelling in our old motor-home. Of the few other motor-home travellers that we met, NONE were from the nearest northern neighbour. All from Canada or from Europe. US citizens were conspicuous by their absence. Now, I wonder why that is! Apologies, nick8086, for getting off topic, but I couldn't let the misconception pass.
  13. I agree with Roger and the other posters above on the CR. Having just checked a 1926 Belgian engine and found it to be at 6:1, I was a little concerned and did some research. Of around 100 US made cars in 1923, the highest CR was 5:1. Average would be below 4.5:1. (Dykes). While this was largely dictated by the fuel of the times, the engineering of the crank, rods, gudgeons etc was calculated to handle those pressures. And the lovely Humberette doesn't appear to be particularly massive in the bottom end, so I would approach raising the compression ratio with some caution.
  14. Usually it ends up with 1/8" to 3/16" dimple in the centre of the depression. The depression might typically cover over 50% of the plug. I use a hard setting sealant, 'Stag', but only because my father always used it. Some Welsh plugs have given me a hard time, recently, and I have taken to buying over-size brass plugs, and carefully turning them down to an accurate fit on the lathe. (They are easily friction held against a three jaw chuck with a tail-stock centre). They can be installed without sealant, but I have not tried it myself. Such a pain in the a.... if they leak on start-up. I suspect you are not dishing them quite deeply enough.