Ttotired

I wouldn't mind seeing more pictures of how the rear conversion was done The torque tube is not my favourite part of my buick

What a load of purist bullsh*t I believe that the best coarse for the OP is to seek PROFESIONAL help in sorting out the handling woes with respect to the fact that its not a modern car and not to expect modern car handling. To basically tell a bloke his new pride and joy is no good because its not factory standard is not helping him out at all My advice, go to a front end/suspension specialist and talk to them and get it checked out and have a look at some of the facebook buick pages. Late model and engine upgrades are not uncommon on this era buick and despite what some think, they are also worthy cars

The balance thing is what I was told applied to nailheads, mine is a 58 364, perhaps its different? I have read it, but I cant think where now

Its simple, B+ to the big top stud B- to the body of the stater A small wire attached to the one remaining stud Hang onto the starter (I put my foot on them) or have it firmly in a vice Touch the small wire to the B+ and the solenoid should kick the pinion out and the armature should start spinning The mentioned ignition terminal on the starter is an output for the ignition or ballast bypass and wont stop the starter from working, but normally should be tested to make sure it works As said, better to go through the starter anyway (it looks ratty) or buy a new one. I found that the starter from an "International" (brand from International Harvester if your not familiar with it) is the same except the nose cone which is easily swapped and a bolt hole in the field housing that supports the P clamp for the B+ cable. This was all on my 58 364, so it might be different

Look up the engine balance stuff as well, the buick engines are apparently balanced by/with the torque converter, so its a bad thing if the crank moves independently from the torque converter. No one warns about this until its to late I have a 1 in 3 shot of getting it right

Pretty sure this will fit anything as long as the cap fits. It was probably made in 55, so suited everything up to 55 with hydraulic brakes

Being an automotive tradesman, if someone came to me with a job on a vintage car and told me it was going to take me x amount of time to do it, regardless of wether I had done the job before and how long ago I had done it, I would politely tell them to find someone else as all I would see at the end of the job was an argument over labour charges on a job that was a pain with seized parts, broken bolts and either crusty NOS gaskets ect or nearly fitting reproduction parts. Vintage car repair takes as long as it takes. If you trust your repairer, then use them and let them do their job, if you don't trust them, find a new one F/ing time books, like the whats my car worth book.

See there you go An answer to the question, not un asked for opinions on the value or not of changing to disc brakes Thank you

I always just used general purpose grease on the rubbing block and cam Absolutely no need for anything special and I have rebuilt hundreds of them Kiss principle

All very interesting, but back to the question "Has anyone tried a disk brake conversion under Kelsey Hayes original wire wheels? Do the calipers fit?" I wonder this as well. I don't have wires or disc brakes, but if I decide to go that direction, it might be handy information

The link bolt. With the movement of the suspension arm up the top bar is going to pull the top of the bolt towards the front of the car, the lower bar will tend to push the bolt towards the rear of the car in relation to the top bars movement. This will try to push the bottom of the bolt towards the rear of the car which it cant do, so it will break either the top or bottom off the bolt. Mate, don't take my word for it, take it to a shop and ask them

1 large single bar is whats required here, I really am quite surprised that the knowledge base that is evident here are not advising "Old Tank" as I have Ask any engineer about this set up, its just dangerous. When that lets go, it will do so in a corner and suddenly alter the handling of the car which has the potential to cause loss of control. I am willing to back down from this if anyone can show me where this "set up" has been used in a production or even professional race situation I know its not a race car, but its a big heavy lumbering car that has a lot of body roll without a sway bar and much less with it. What happens when it suddenly gets a lot of body roll again?

Its a job for the professionals. But take 3 speed readings, low middle, high to a value, say 10, 30, 50 mph on the speedo and compare them to GPS speed and take that to an instrument tech and they can calibrate the speedo correctly. If you have done this already and they cant get it right, find a new tech

Interior looks great I picked up on what you said about your a/c though, or what I think you said You directed heated air through the evaporator of the a/c? With what you said, I think the a/c was off, which is good, but you shouldn't be able to do that. Its ok for a/c air to go through the heater, but not the other way around. I wont bore you with why exactly (if you don't know) but it does the a/c no good at all

Sorry to be a wet blanket, but you do realise the eyes at the end of say bars are going to travel through a different arc Its going to tear itself to bits Your first farmer design was probably safer