ArticiferTom

Do a search in Tech . on freeing seized engine at very lest mmo or other in cylinders and pre-pressurize oil system even with a hand suction pump will get something in bearing . May want to drop pan first if it did not have oil in , or has water in it is a rebuild . TAKE it slow ,ask for help when needed , hate to see a vintage old engine go to waste .

Great ,great find !! Lets see the engine .

Is a tenon cutter but more likely for wheel spokes . They started with a cone cutter to center and finished with tenon cutter . it cut against to grain to make spoke to length after being driven to hub .

Yeah , 31plymouth the cone i have is from a DRT maybe 181 model it is number 58A-34 . They all look to be the same . Where are the slots you see ? I wonder if number diff as to do with vacuum release strength of spring inside cone or something . If your interested in trading one of your 38's for a 34 . Since you say from 209's .

Hello BB and all , man time flies . Well after my initial start up .by enlarging jet hole only . And the problem BB and Broker-Len had with fuel consumption ie running maybe rich . I decided to finish the idle tube mod to spec by reducing the economizer jet down two drill sizes . The carb had to come off anyway ,as i had noted intake and exhaust leaks at manifold . So had to order gaskets and then hand planed manifolds to within 20thou . A warp was most of my leak . Also added ferrules to exhaust tubes . Next was the leak at the exhaust pipe ,then at the clamps . I never had a tailpipe . Muffler had turn down on exit just behind cab . So decided to hand bend tailpipe and fab OEM tailpipe hanger . Finished that and was hating to take carb idle tube out again since it needed to be sealed with Seal-all every time . So new plan envolved something to fix that . So first reduced constricted area ,(economizer) which stretched length a tenth inch . Before cutting found out by dry fitting , was never going to work . A inspection with 10x eye loop show where it was drilled out and not straight either . Solution , mill to 1/4" and install with o-rings . beautiful . Seals and removable . Back together and weather turns cold till now . So Sunday started . And it was harder starting . probability because of leaner . Full choke barely helped . Why ? Because same gypsy removed the choke system components . All was left is sliding new solid cone . So once it was warmed test ride was good . Ran quieter , because of exhaust repairs and carb preformed as good as my Zenith . Maybe nicer on acceleration . Next job ,after a few honey due projects is modify standpipe and install missing choke system ie two springs , brass sleeves and ring ,cone with vacuum internal release , and standpipe chimney slide shut off . Got these parts off ebay parts carb DRT181 , I think . I'll keep you posted . Anyone have a choke cone from 209 , would be interested if there are numbers on it . Number mine is little different then spec . sheet ? What a project ,err . Nice to be retired and quarantined .

Your getting there . Better put a nylon stocking in or filter on top radaitor pipe before starting . Do not want a block their . Also will clean a lot when it starts running .

Sorry not much help there . Did not know you had 12volt system . Figured it to be 6 vdc pos grd .

The 6 volt coils are a common item at most auto or tractor stores . Also pretty cheap , but will have both wires on top . You may want to get a new one and sell that rare working one to someone with the ignition that takes it . I vote rebuild fuel pump #1 . However that looks to be a after market type B . Not that it makes much difference ,unless your going for strict oem parts , Like a few of us crazies ! . I have already rebuild aftermarket from my '31 196ci four cyl.,. but do not if compatible . Would be willing to sell . also extra new coil . Just not economical to ship coil .

Nice , Did not expect it to be down draft carb . Looks like engine fuel pump is there but by-passed .?? Not a hard rebuild . unless you have cam problem . No sure on coil . May have something to do with mounting . Some from era where attached to back of ignition switch and stuck out behind dash . Coil wire when through cowl to distr.

Lets see some engine pics . I am not to familiar with what all DeSoto offered . I assume you have no engine driven fuel pump on it ,but vacuum tank . Most try to make those work or use electric pump to prime and start . As not to have it pumping in case of emergency . My truck was first years they put on engine fuel pumps ,also water pumps .

nice roll out ! Good Luck .

Any thoughts on what caused the failure of the rear . Components seem pretty beefy .

Wow , moving along nicely . Your workmanship is a step above , for sure . That little spanner tool is that to load bearing or something ? Glad your enjoying . I do the same in quarantine every day . I'm high risk so stay home in retirement .

Try this https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-fuel-tank-drain-plug-Mfg-1316670/254451420873?hash=item3b3e7c8ec9:g:DjIAAOSwmXtd8l81

Either a 1/2" or 3/4" drive on ratchet or breaker bar . hard to get scale from pic .

BTT reduced to $125 +shipping

Try this . Make sure to have a well adjusted e-brake . test for hold and stopping . A little drag here and there would not hurt to get it to grab good . If new shoes; will wear . If not check heads of rivets .

I believe he referring to stop at bottom , on frame . Not on glass . It is most likely just two layer thick rubber . Maybe more foam type rubber with stick on backing .

Just take that long ear hair and grow it long enough to tie on top to MAN BUN . LOL ... STYLE .

I do not know myself . I use the UNREAD CONTENT at the top of main page since I am on so much . This and notification keeps me up .

You beat by "That Much " Jon .

Go back to The Carb Shop LLC site and search info on passenger cars . It has all the info at your finger tips . Good luck.

Chet , did you check with glass company . There are double face mastic tapes they use . Can easily form the corners and set glass on/in .

Your welcome . I saw a few mistakes in my drawing . The metal is 3 "overall and the flat is 3/4" with nails 3/8" apart . and measurement of start of hole is 3-3/4" in middle not near rear . .