Hubert_25-25

Rod, Attached is the timing page from the 1928 Buick Reference book. Also attached is the 1927 supplement. The original timing set up is not relevant to modern fuels and you leave a lot of performance unused if you set timing to factory specifications. I have also included notes to help you understand the timing and on setting and checking your timing using a timing light. It's always good to understand how to static time an engine, but you always want to put a timing light on the motor to verify the set up is correct. Hugh

I removed 1937 from the title as it appears that does not apply. Thank you for the correction. I appreciate seeing the fix that EmTee shows as I have wondered why the end of the hood prop has that short slot on the end.

Not sure of all the years this applies to, but I have a 1938 Buick in my shop. The hood prop seems rather dangerous as it merely likes to slide against the underside of the hood and then the hood wants to bang closed. I added these hood stops on either side using a single pop rivet each. Hopefully a good fix for someone else as well. Hugh

Stephen, Going to provide to you several pictures. Notice in the first 2 pictures that I used a bead of Permatex #2 on the bearing cap to try to make an oil seal between the outside of the brass bearing and the cast iron holder. I don't know if the factory ever did this, but I thought it would do a little for oil control. It does seem that the screw in the bearing cap goes on the outside, but it also has to fit in the bronze bearing one way, so see how it does rotated. Also as a check, there is a "Ring of brass" used as an oil splasher. There is one inside each water pump shaft bearing. These are often lost. If you need dimensions on these rings, I do have them. Please use the AACA Forum "Buick Pre War" section for your questions if you want quicker responses. Hugh

There is not a needle and seat in the vacuum tank. That is why it would be difficult to control the flow of a fuel pump with the vacuum tank still in series to the carburetor. The vacuum tank is a tank within a tank. There is a large float inside. The float operates a break over arm. The breaker arm directs the valves in the top of the tank lid to be either ONLY in vacuum or venting. So the vacuum tank is either under vacuum (open to the intake manifold vacuum) or venting (allowing fuel to be drawn out). There is a flapper valve between the 2 tanks to keep the vacuum from effecting the fuels ability to get to the carburetor. It's easier to install a viton needle and seat into a carburetor, than it is to retrofit a vacuum tank that never had a needle and seat in the first place. That said, if you installed a set of electrical contacts for the high level, and contacts for a low level switch, you could shut the pump power on and off to the fuel pump, rather than cycling by level. Then the switches have to be kept from fuel vapors or be intrinsically safe switches. Yes the "system" could be reinvented and all the more reason to carry a fire extinguisher. Hugh

This is the oil feed line to the head.

John, Why don't you start a new thread with a photo so we can see what you are working on. Hats off to you for doing the right thing and dropping the pan. I have a car in my shop where an owner did not do that, and his rebuild would have been less expensive if he had done otherwise. People don't understand non detergent oils. Non detergent oils let the sludge settle out. Pull the dip stick on a car with non detergent oil, and the oil looks really clean. But the oil pick screen is in the muck. In later Buicks, the oil filter was eliminated when Buick went to a floating suction. Not only does the muck settle in the sump, it also settles and clogs the oil passages. Be sure to closely inspect the screen on the oil pick up, and all the solder joints in the bearing oil feed tubing. Hugh

John, Using the word "Standard" in the description of your car is misleading. It is a 1924 model 45 Touring. You can also call it a 1924 6 cylinder. Master and Standard were not used as terms until 1925. If you do want to use a reference, Master is more appropriate as you have the larger engine. Your car has a metal needle and seat in the carburetor. These are quickly overrun with fuel pumps that have too high a pressure. The fuel pressure on these was based on a 2 foot liquid level of fuel coming from the vacuum tank to the carburetor. 1 foot of water is 1/2 PSI so the needle and seat only has to seal against around 1 psi. Low pressure 6 volt pumps are in the 2-4 psi range. These are getting harder to find. Most common are the 6 volt pumps in the 6-8 psi range. I do not know what pressure an SU pump puts out, but it is looking for a certain amount of back pressure on the needle and seat to prevent the electromagnet from toggling. Again, I think the pressure is too high. I do make viton tipped needle and seat kits for Marvel carburetors. You will need to go thru your carbutetor and replace the venturi as potmetal growth prevents the carburetor from working properly. Look into replacing the float as well. If you acquire and put the vacuum tank back in service, they work well, but you do need to watch for vacuum leaks. Hugh

Grant, Consider installing two electrical pumps in series. Whatever pump you buy will eventually fail. I did not install 2 switches, you could, but I am able to reach the pump from under the car and I just swap in the spade terminal on the other pump when I need to use or run on the other pump. These pumps have no problems connected that way. I dont mind getting under the car to switch the electrical wire, but its not so much fun dealing with fuel lines. Also consider the E8902 pump which is the 6 volt lower pressure 2-4 psi alternative and does not require a regulator or a relay. Note also that these have become very scarse, and you need to read the fine details from all the different sellers as many of them call their pump an E8902 when it is not based on the specs. Most are out of stock also. Onix EH902 is another variation, but read all the information closely before ordering as sometimes I see these listed with a higher pressure in the fine print which is another model. Hugh

Coker does not list the 22" tire on it's NZ website, but this company does. http://classic-tyres.co.nz/wp/ I would contact Coker in NZ and see if they could put what was needed in with one of their shipments. They may not stock them in NZ, but I would think they could do a special order and ship them along with another standard shipment.

Steffen, Here are more notes around working on the fan hub. Hugh

Thank you for the responses. I am not completely familiar with this year Buick. I will let the owner know that he is not missing any parts.

I have a 38 Buick Series 40 Business coupe in my shop. The running boards do not look right. Does anyone have any photos of what correct running boards should look like, or at least the ends. There is greater than a 1" gap between the fenders and the running boards. Thank you. Hugh

Dave, You do have to be careful about what you get off the internet. I recently went on a call regarding a Model A owner that had a stuck clutch. I followed the note from Chip Evans with the following exceptions. 1) I warmed the car up in neutral first. Then I shut it off. 2) I jacked up the rear of the vehicle and place it on jack stands. 3) I started the car in 1st gear with the clutch on the floor. Since it had a stuck clutch, the rear wheels started spinning. 4) With my foot still on the clutch, I gently applied pressure to the brakes and the engine never died, and the clutch started working. I instructed the owner to keep a 1 x 2 wood stick between the seat frame and the clutch, that would keep the clutch pedal 1/2 way down when the car was parked. This should prevent it from sticking in the future. Jumping on the brakes is a last resort. Better to try a gentler approach first. Start by pulling the inspection cover on the bell housing. Raise one wheel and have someone spin it in a gear while watching the clutch plates.

The lower pulley is convex. It is high in the center. So the belt must have a little suppleness, but most belts are made of thicker leather called harness leather. Leather takes a gentle stretch, but not a lot. With the engine off, if you try to spin the fan blades, it should slip on the fan pulley. Also asking if you have rebuilt your fan hub with sealed bearings?

Jim, Contact Don Hart (just outside Houston). They fix gas tanks and have a lifetime warranty. Hugh https://www.donhart.com

Pete, Change the title of this posting to 1926-1927 Buick Standard Radiator A few comments on this. - The shroud around the radiator will work for 1925 to 1927 Buick Standard. - This will fit a Buick Standard and not a Buick Master - This will fit 1926 or 1927. Buick Standard. 1927 got the thermostat, but a 1926 radiator will still function in a 1927 car. - This could fit a 1925 Buick Standard, if a person found a 1926 or 1927 radiator shell. In 1926, Buick increased the top fill nozzle to hold the same radiator cap as used on the larger 6 cylinder. So as an assembly (shell and radiator) from a later car can be used on the earlier model.

I thought Then and Now Automotive Parts was making these gears. Not sure if that is where you bought it. The new gears do not have the steel keyed hub, so they are all fiber. I know when I was getting ready to change mine, I did source a better water pump gear to avoid what you are showing.

I agree with Don. As long as the old bearings have no spalling or pitting, they are still good.

Stay with the 22" tire size. Tires are available. Converting to 21" opens up a whole can of worms. When Buick went to 21" rims on the Standard models, they changed the hubs and the rear axles and the brakes. It is not a direct replacement as the 21" wheel hub will not fit on the older axles. Plus your wheel will be slightly smaller diameter so you will lose a few mph of top speed. Hugh

Mark, That looks like a good test. I like what you have done making big holes, scratches, and small tack holes to check for the filler effectiveness. Filling the small holes is nice where you do not need to install all the tooth picks. Q cells are great for breathing new life into a wood bow that is still structurally sound but just needs a rejuvinated surface for putting tacks into. I had also tried using some other products, but found them too hard to drive the tacks into. The Q cells are really a nice wood filler substitute. One other comment about the sockets. After the welding repair, you have to make the decision to paint or powder coat the sockets. 1) There are metal fillers that you can powder coat over the top of. "All Metal" is the one I used. Sometimes you have surface pitting that needs to be leveled. 2) Some of the sockets (if not most) have a wood dowel inside them. These have a tendency to fall out if you do powder coating as the booth is 400 degrees for x minutes, so let the powder coater know to not leave these in the hot box any longer than they need to be if you do powder coat them. That wood inside the sockets has a tendency to shrink as the moisture is driven out. The advantage to powder coating is that it can get into tighter spots than painting and it is a very durable finish. Hugh

John, More information on rebuilding your waterpump. Information on removal as well. Hugh

Chassis paint is Satin black. Not gloss, not flat. Bill Hirsch does make a good chassis black.

Spotlights are accessories, so any mounting that you do is correct as long as it is done in period looking materials. I like that you have turn signals and hid the actuator. I also like the cable selection for the wire cover to the spotlamp. My suggestion is to use a piece of copper wire. Come from behind the dash, make a loop for the wiring, then go back behind the dash. Twist the wires together behind the dash. You could also use braided 16 GA electrical wire and tie it behind the dash. Something to keep it away from the door. Another option is to use the 2 braided wire which is the wire that many of these came standard with. It is a lot more flexible than using a sheathing. This wire is available on Ebay and from several supply houses. Multiple color options too. Black, Brown, Putty. Hugh

For many of us, the Optima does not show. Woodys custom shop is making a box for them which I use in the cars where the battery needs to be hidden. This is the Optima in this box in a 1941 Bantam Jeep. https://www.woodyscustomshop.com/porsche-356-items/ Hugh