Hubert_25-25

Larry, You mentioned that you did not take photos of the front flooring in Alan Wohls 10,000 mile 1925-45 because it had the same flooring as is in your car. I went looking thru photos that you sent me in the past of your 1925-45. Is this what you found in Alan's car? Close up detail photos are so hard to find. Hugh

Jim, This is the filter removed from the 1926 Buick Master that I have at my house. Notice the cracking in the pot metal at the hose connections. This will not be reinstalled. How does the rest of the filter housing look? I agree with dropping the pan as well and cleaning it out before restarting the car again. I have seen a lot of failed oil screens on the oil pick up. There are several spin on type oil filters and flanged brackets available on websites like Summit. My plan is to mount this on the back side of the rear engine mount where it is basically unseen, and run tubing to and from the block to the filter. Hugh

Consider sending your tank to someone like Don Hart for rebuilding and lifetime lining. That may be your most inexpensive option.

Jim, Different filters were used and owners changed the canisters as well. Can you post a photo. Some of these original filters had potmetal parts and should not be used. Hugh

Ken, Black Forbo Marmoleum may be another close to original linoleum that is available. You may be able to get a sample. Hugh https://www.greenbuildingsupply.com/All-Products/Marmoleum-Flooring-Shop-by-Collection/Forbo-Marmoleum-Concrete?faux=30535&gclid=CjwKCAiAy_CcBhBeEiwAcoMRHE4UggiWeJpKfT9AriTpaFD4_LspOj0Xr10i-69ubuaiTLJrUacU-BoCNAYQAvD_BwE

Ken, Buick only had 6 colors in 1925. Brewster Green, 2 shades of blue, Buick Grey, and black. Model 24's were either black (early), Brewster Green, or Buick Grey (sport models). No listing of Burgundy in 1925. The burgundy cars (like a 1923 model 39) was limited production and seemed to have red linoleum. Factory advertisement looks like black though. There are numerous links in the file I sent you regarding running boards. I think I did find someone making linoleum in other than gray, but I did not pursue it. I think the current thing to look for is Marmoleum if you want something close to black linoleum. Hugh

Ken, At this point, and I have been looking at this for a long time, I believe the front floor in the open cars was black linoleum, and it was not ribbed. I believe it was just smooth. I am still waiting on information from another owner. Hugh

Ken, The original material was not rubber, but it was linoleum and it had a burlap backing. Running board material is easier to show as there are more photos. Notice also that the ribbing stopped short of the edge strips. This material is no longer available. I have also seen black linoleum with burlap backing and ribs, but the ribs go all the way to the metal edges, so that may have been a replacement that was installed long ago and would have been from a larger uniform sheet of material. Today it is black rubber if you want the rib look or linoleum with no ribs is really a closer option. If I recall, black linoleum was also not available, hence the use of grey. I will have to do a little more digging to get floor board photos. Hugh

Ken, I emailed you two PDF files as this site only allows posting of .jpg. Larry DiBarry drew these floorboard details from originals. What I sent you can be printed on your home printer, or printed full size (24 x 36) at an office supply store like Office Depot. Full size will be to scale. I can see that your middle board is 2 boards with a slight angle cut, so yes those are original. Look for the cross grained wood in the area by the clutch pedal. I also noticed that you are missing the upper pedal plate. Attached is a drawing for reference of the lower pedal plate. I drew this for Larry because his was missing. I guess your upper plate is still around the steering column. Yes, the model A footrest does not have the concentric circles on top like the Buick one. Hugh

Correction. Bob's sells the accelerator button head. That footrest photo is an original, but I bet a Ford Model A shop has a substitute. Hugh

Ken, Good to have you back. Attached is a link that will answer a lot of your questions. Yes there was a foot rest next to the gas pedal. I see the hole for it in your photo. The photos you attached are very small and hard to make out the details. There is leather or a leather substitute in the shift boot and the starter pedal cover, and the pedal covers. Bobs automobilia will have the foot rest button, and the rest is allthread and washers and nuts. Hugh

Attached is a link to rebuilding your Marvel carburetor. There are several new parts available to bring it back to specifications. The metering pin jet for a 1925 Standard should have a 51 stamped on it. The high speed jet is a 57. I would have to get a wire set to measure the bore size of these jets. The main jet is the jet with the mixture needle up the bottom. None of these jets should require drilling. The air valve adjuster for the marvel spring barrel should not require teflon tape. You might want to verify that you have the correct spring as there are several that look the same but have different spring rates. 1925 Standard is a 1 year only spring. There is information on the forum regarding the spring and replacements. You should not have to run a little choke and I am not advocating that going up another drill size is the answer.

Slawnski, Welcome. Do make future postings on the AACA Buick Pre War section. So much potmetal. All the suppliers of Buick parts added just a enough pot metal in small doses to make multiple component failures a reality. Ignition Switches, Distributors, Speedometers, can't leave off the Carburetors, check. Maybe their marketting strategy was when the door handles fell off in your hand, you would get the hint to go back to the showroom for the latest model. So attaching a guide to help you thru the carburetor as the engine will not run correctly unless you address the venturi. Hugh

Gino, The shift lever is painted gloss black. These were not plated. For future correspondences, you should do your posting on the AACA Buick Prewar forum These are my notes on getting replacement transmission keys. Hugh

When you put your vacuum tank back together, be sure to use "never seize" on all threaded banjo connections.

This is what I used to do the wiring in my 1925 Buick. I had the old wires, but I wanted to make some upgrades. You can see how I laid out the old wires as I made new armoring for each cable section as well. The kit was $390 and separately I spent $142. I started with a spreadsheet to manage all the wire and fittings. I did make a few wire color modifications, but basically stayed with the colors the wiring diagram used. I did double check a few areas for what I thought would be better gauge wire size for the amperage draw. LED's are a good upgrade as the amperage is much kinder to components - especially for headlights. I also added turn signals. Hugh

Pete, Wrist pins are 3/4 x 3 1/8" for 1922-23-24 4 cyl and 1923 6 cyl. If you can't find those above, the next option is D-E 4 cyl, E-H-K 6 cyl. These are also 3/4 x 3 1/8". Also consider buying drilled head aviation bolts from Pegasus for the wrist pin bolt. Original is just a lock washer, and wiring the wrist pin bolt is a better approach. Hugh

Working on an unrestored 1926 Buick Master and found an original Buick tool bag under the rear seat. This is an extremely rare find. Attached are photos and dimensions. I made a few of these bags earlier, but now I have more details on the clasp mechanism. This bag is applicable for several years. Hugh

This is what the jack handle looks like - with dimensions - up thru 1928. No listing for 1929.

This is a reprint from the original METZ manual. It explains the operation of the car and the brakes. Thank you to Tom Pruett for this information. Hugh THE USE OF THE METZ PLAN CAR. DIRECTIONS FOR DRIVING AND RUNNING THE CAR Although we are aware that a great number of our purchasers already understand the mechanism and operation of an automobile, still we feel that even they should study the following points as to driving the Metz Plan Car, as we wish the users of our automobile to get the VERY BEST results in operating. “FESTINA LENTE” This translated into English means “make haste slowly” and it embodies our advice to the constructor of a Metz Plan Car. Therefore, in the first place, before running the engine be careful to ascertain that the lubrication is working and that the gasoline feed is perfect. In the second place, go over every nut and bolt and be sure that no detail has been missed. Many motorists make the error of only giving consideration to the engine, leaving such important details as adjustment of transmission and wheels until these get troublesome through neglect. We feel constrained to give this warning, and a few moments spent in heeding it will be TIME WELL SPENT as it will materially prolong the life of the car. TO START THE ENGINE First of all, fill tanks. In filling the gasoline tank it is always advisable to use a funnel fitted with a strainer, as this prevents any water or dirt reaching the carburetor through the feed pipe. In 1909 models, remove motor base cover and pour in 1 ½ pints of best air cooled lubricating oil, then fill the lubricator with the same. The sight feed drips should be so regulated as to maintain this amount of oil constant. The best oil is always cheapest in this case for the difference in running will be distinctly better and the cost will only be a few cents more for 500 miles of driving. First see that the clutch pedal is withdrawn and that, thus, the friction discs are not in contact. Switch off magneto and open throttle lever. Notch the starting crank with handle DOWN, so that you will pull UPWARDS TO START THE ENGINE. One Or two brisk upward pulls, and the engine will readily start. Throttle the engine down after cranking so that it runs slowly, do not allow it to race. Prior to sending the carburetor from the factory we adjust it so as to meet average conditions and we send it with a booklet dealing with its adjustments. Sometimes the climate etc. in different localities may necessitate a slight readjustment of needle valve and air intake. It is easy to decide this by experimenting when the engine is running but, generally speaking, our adjustment will meet most conditions and the engine will start up quickly and fire regularly. ON THE ROAD Having seated yourself in the car release the foot- brakes, if they happen to be applied, place the driving lever in the third notch from forward. Accelerate the engine by opening the throttle and engage the clutch pedal gradually. When the car has travelled a few yards and the engine has picked up speed, release the clutch quickly, move the speed lever forward and again engage the clutch. In changing to a higher speed it will be found necessary on most occasions to accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. Always “let in the clutch”, that is, bring the friction disks together GENTLY as this imposes less strain upon the tires and other parts of the car. Always run the engine as slowly as possible for the work it has to do, that is to say, use the higher gear for the load and gradient without straining the engine. If you “race” the engine when it is running light you put unnecessary strain on the moving parts and are much more liable to do damage than when the engine is running fast under a load. Never let the engine run fast on a low gear when you can get the same speed out of the car, and a lower engine speed, by changing to a higher gear. Foe example:-If the car is running on the level, on, say third speed, and the engine begins to race, change at once to top speed, you will then get along as fast with the engine speed much less, quieter, and with a resultant saving of wear and tear of engine, bearings, and transmission, and also a reduction in the amount of gasoline and lubricating oil consumed. On the other hand, if the engine labors on a steep hill and the speed falls off appreciably, a change should be made to a lower gear of course and the throttle lever should be opened on a hill as wide as the occasion calls for. THE USE OF THE BRAKES Avoid as far as possible any necessity for sudden stoppage. More damage is done to cars by inconsiderate and violent application of powerful brakes, than by any work they have to do. When intending to stop, release clutch at a reasonable distance and let the momentum of the car carry it up to the stopping place, when it can be brought gently to a standstill by a very slight application of foot brakes. When about to descend a steep hill and you do not want to use the brakes, put the first or second (that is one of the LOWEST) speeds in and switch off, letting the car drive the engine. This will prevent the car “getting away” on any hill, and the lower the speed you are in, the more effective the brake. A powerful emergency brake can be employed by using the reverse. This should be used only in case of extreme necessity. To effect a sudden stop release the clutch, throw the speed lever back to reverse and the engage the clutch gradually. This will bring the car to standstill in its own length. The rear wheels should be detached every few months so that the multiple disc brakes may be packed with the very best grease. These brakes should also be oiled through the screw hole provided, from time to time, but grease also is needed to insure perfect working conditions.

Per the owner of this 1911 Or 1910 Metz, these brake discs are supposed to be greased. They should not be dry. The manual says you can also add oil, but I would try to keep that out of the wheel bearings. Adding oil reads as if that is something to do between greasing. He also mentioned that the maintenance manual suggested that these brakes do not produce full stopping easily, but merely slow the vehicle. For a full stop the driver may need to fenagle the reverse operation. Remember this is 1910 and an inexpensive car. Sorry for the delay on posting this. I would also like to get a copy of the section of the manual to show you. Maybe Tom will chime in. Hugh

Otto Gas Engine Works may have NOS rings for you.

Clay, These are notes from doing the rear main seal on my 1925 Buick Standard. I have a different clutch so I cannot help with that. Hugh Rear Main Seal 1) There are two wire retainers used with the original 1/4" x 1/4" cross section cork rear main seals. The purpose of the 2 wires is to prevent the cork seal from rotating in the bearing cap and block. The .035 wire is stiff and you could make new ones if you needed to easily, just use a wire that is a little difficult to bend. A lot of the wire available is very pliable. This is hardened like wire for a spring. Notice that there is also a tiny hole in the bearing cap and in the block just near the parting line. Just the corner of the wire goes into the hole and that is what keeps the cork seal from spinning. As a modern upgrade, I have installed the “Best Gasket” rope seal #6340 that I purchased from Egge Machine in California. This requires drilling a small 1/16" hole in the middle of the bearing cap seal area and installing a very small 1/16" diameter roll pin, so I no longer need the wires. The seal comes with good instructions on installation, but there are a few issues. I am being very careful not to overstress the casting section that holds the rear main seal. I used a 1/16” punch to make a hole in the rope seal to fit the roll pin to prevent rotation. I pushed the rope seal in the cap and the block as far as I could by hand. Initial fit of the rear main seal. I found a socket the exact size as the rear main seal diameter. How lucky is that. Very slightly smaller would be OK too, but probably no more than .010 smaller OD. Maybe could use shim stock around a socket if necessary. The socket should stay behind the babbit surface. I tried pounding the socket to push the rope seal into place but was having some trouble getting the socket all the way to the bottom of the groove where it would compress the rope. I put the rope into the groove as deep as I could. I followed the directions included with the rope seal and cut the ends of the rope “proud” or above the machined surface by .015” using the shim stock that was supplied with the seal kit. · I then used the socket and began slowly pulling the bearing cap down on the rope seal. The rope seal is oil impregnated. I did not want to hydraulically overpressure the bearing cap where the seal is. I wanted to pull it down slowly so that the excess oil could escape. I took my time cross tightening the 4 nuts in the bearing cap and only using a 3/8 drive hand socket. I also occasionally rotated and wiggled the socket to be sure that it still was not binding and overpressuring the oil seal retainer. I only pulled it down tight to where the mating surfaces touched. . 2) Then remove the cap and clean up any oil that squeezed out. Install the crankshaft · The 6 special flywheel bolts must be installed in the crankshaft prior to placing the crankshaft in the block. Do not pull them up tight until the flywheel and upper bell housing is installed. · bearing cap prep - , the rope seal has been pre squished so to speak above. I used red assembly lube on the bearing surface and on the rotary surface of the rear main seal. I used Permatex copper coat gasket in a can. The can copper coat is very thin. It comes with a ball applicator, but I used a small paint brush to control the application better. I wanted the coppercoat on the mating surface, and assembly lube on the bearing surface. I did not want coppercoat on the bearing surface or the rope seal ends. Because this is a mating surface that can leak oil thru the surface, I wanted to keep oil from migrating thru to the outside. The 2 rear main bolts are also outside the oil pan which is unusual. I wanted to prevent an oil leak down these 2 bolts so there is sealant around the mating surface of the 2 bolts. The rest of the surface has compound on it just to be evenly spread. · Install the bearing caps on the main bearings and the connecting rods. You can plastigauge again if you like. Ensure the motor spins freely. · Install the cotter pins on the connecting rod and main bearing bolts.

Contact Vin Cassiday. vincent@cassidybros.com He has stacks of antique rims. Tell him Hugh the Buick guy sent you. 978-948-7303

You need to be asking your questions on the AACA Buick Pre War section. If this is a 1922 6 cylinder, then 1917 to 1923 is listed as the same part number. 4 cylinder is different. Buick calls it "Steering connecting Rod assembly" in the catalog, but most call it the drag link if it is connected to the Pitman arm. Hugh