zipdang

Thank you Peter. I'll take another look at what I have in the next few days. Gotta love this community!

Love the videos! I would be interested in the new throttle shaft and bushings. Would these require my modifying the current carb, or are they basically "plug and play?" Also, one of the two screws holding the butterfly won't budge. I'll guess that I'd have to drill it out. Would the new shaft use my old butterfly? Would you have new screws?

Thank you all for the information. I had suspected that the engine in mine was not the original (as mine is a 1958 model). Solex BCI, IBC, CBI???? Why not a BIC or CIB, or ICB? Hmm? Ha! As to an air leak, the butterfly shaft (name?) is sloppy in its holes and the seals in the rebuild kit aren't very effective. I didn't know if that leak would be enough to cause my symptoms. Maybe so...

Thanks for the response, Peter R. Here are a couple of pictures for you. Any pointers would be welcome. I believe it is the 425 ccm engine, but I'm far from knowledgeable about them. It is great fun to drive!

Thank you carbking for the explanation and the suggestion. The casting on this one seems quite true and since it does run fairly well with the "choke" partially open, I just might leave well enough alone except for trying the gasket thickness you suggested. At any rate, as long as it goes down the road, it keeps bringing smiles and odd looks! Cheers!

Even if I could afford this place, I'd go broke trying to fill the garage. How long is the driving season up there? I think Paul Dobbin hit the nail on the head.

Audrey Hepburn. Obviously getting off topic, but couldn't resist.

The choke cable does not activate the butterfly. This carb has a something of a fuel enrichment mechanism on its side. The butterfly opens and closes with the the throttle cable. Also, the pictures of the carb are from before I rebuilt it. It is now spic and span with the appropriate kit installed. Sorry for the confusion...

It needs to have choke at least halfway open (pulling the knob) for it to be able to accelerate smoothly even when fully warmed up.

I posted this below in the French Automobiles section but would like a quicker response. Forgive me if I should've waited longer on a reply down there before reposting. I have a 1958 Citroen 2cv van that had been sitting for a long time. Not running well, I recently rebuilt the carb but still have issues. The main problem is upon acceleration, it bogs down and will only run well when I reopen the choke. Once it is completely warmed up (we're talking 15 minutes of driving) it is somewhat better, but I still have to leave the choke open for it to pull on any load - maintaining speed isn't a problem. Also, placing my hand over the venturi, doesn't stall it and has little effect on its running. Can find no vacuum leaks around base of carb or the manifold itself. The carb is a Solex model 28 I believe. Can you help this novice out? Let me know if more information is needed. Also, I haven't found any pictures of other 2cvs with the dash layout mine has. I've been told it might be a Belgium made truck but that is not confirmed. Thank you for your help.

Hello! I have a 1958 Citroen 2cv van that had been sitting for a long time but recently resurrected by me. Not running well, I just rebuilt the carb but still have issues. The main problem is upon acceleration, it bogs down and will only run well when I reopen the choke. Once it is completely warmed up (we're talking 15 minutes of driving) it is somewhat better, but I still have to leave the choke open for it to pull on any load - maintaining speed isn't a problem. Also, placing my hand over the venturi, doesn't stall it and has little effect on its running. Can find no vacuum leaks around base of carb or the manifold itself. The carb is a 28 I believe. Can you help this novice out? Let me know if more information is needed. Also, I haven't found any pictures of other 2cvs with the dash layout mine has. I've been told it might be a Belgium made truck but that is not confirmed. Thank you for your help.

Thanks TerryB.

Forgive me, but what is a "1950 b2 wheel stud?"

Remember that greener grass on the other side? Probably because of the lack of oil spills...

Very sorry to hear. This should not be part of the struggle of restoring a car! Heal yourself first and we'll await your return with wishes and prayers.

Great to hear from you again. I've always loved this car and the stories you have shared.

Fantastic! Congratulations! We're all looking forward to the continued progress. Thank you for sharing your adventure!

I would guess that top wrench especially could really fly if it slipped off!

State Route 23 in my area is horrible between Columbus, Ohio and Delaware, Ohio. I followed a car down it the other day whose license plate read: IH8 RT23.

I hate it when I get behind the manure spreaders around here.

Looks like a Disney sequal to "Cars" based on "Romeo and Juliette."

I was let down by the self-help book "Double your IQ or no money back."* But seriously, I have purchased a book or two that ended up only being good for levelling tables. *Tip of the hat to Gary Larson.

Remember, it gets confusing when multiple parts with pictures are included in a single thread. Much easier to follow if broken into separate threads per forum suggestion.

As with the replies you received about going from 6V to 12V, there really isn't any need to change the brakes either. They were engineered for this car and work great. I owned a 1950 Chrysler and a 1951 DeSoto and never had a bit of trouble or anxiety with the brakes. Save your money for that perfect paint job or interior!

My driver's ed class was in a Cutlass Supreme (mid '70s) and I took my test in my 1956 Olds 88. I don't think the patrolman paid any attention to my driving as he was busy looking around the car.